I 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


^  m:^ 


/a 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


^  Ilia 


|M 

2.2 


1.4 


IM 
1.6 


^- 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


4 


V 


^ 


m 


:\ 


\ 


^ 


^ 


% ' 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

(7i6)  872-4503 


^^ 


<?)• 


I 


CIHM 
Microfiche 
Series 
(Monographs) 


ICMH 

Collection  de 
microfiches 
(monographies) 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes  /  Notes  techniques  et  bihiiographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best  original 
copy  available  for  filming.   Features  of  this  copy  which 
may  be  bibliographically  unique,  which  may  alter  any 
of  the  images  in  the  reproduction,  or  which  may 
significantly  change  the  usual  method  of  filming,  are 
checked  below. 


0 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I       I  Covers  damaged/ 


n 


Couverture  endommagee 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restauree  et/ou  pellicula 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


□  Coloured  maps/ 
Caites  olograph  iques  en  couleur 

0  Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e. 


autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


0 

n 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relie  avec  d'autres  documents 


I  Tight  bindipq  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
}^Lj  along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serree  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distursion  le  long  de  la  marge  interieure 


D 


Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may  appear 
within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these  have 
been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouties 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  etait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  ete  filmees. 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire  qu'il 
lui  a  eti  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details  de  cet 
exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-itre  uniques  du  point  de  vue 
bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier  une  image 
reproduite.  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une  modification 
dans  la  methode  normale  de  f  ilmage  sont  indiques 
ci-dessous. 

□  Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

□  Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagees 

□  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurees  et/ou  pellicultes 

Q  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  decolorees,  tachetees  ou  piquees 

□  Pages  detached/ 
Pages  detachees 

QShowthrough/ 
Transparence 


Th( 
to 


poi 
of  1 
filn 


Orij 
beg 
the 
sioi 
othi 
firsi 
sior 
oril 


0  Quality  of  print  vi 
Qualite  inegale  de 


varies/ 
egale  de  I'impression 


Q  Continuous  pagination/ 
Pagination  continue 

□  Includes  index(es)/ 
Comprend  un  (d«s)  index 

Title  on  header  taken  from:/ 
Lo  titre  de  Ten-tfite  provient: 

□  Title  page  of  issue/ 
Page  de  titre  de  la  I 


Tho 
thai 
TINI 
whi( 

Map 
diffi 
antii 
bagi 
right 
raqu 
mati 


ivraison 


□  Caption  of  issue/ 
Titre  de  depart  de 

I        I  Masthead/ 


depart  de  la  livraison 


Generique  (periodiques)  de  la  livraison 


7]  Additional  comments:/ 

Commentaires  supplementaires: 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  btlow/ 

Ce  document  est  filme  au  taux  de  reduction  mdique  ci-dessous. 

^OX  14X  18X 


22X 


26  X 


30X 

"71 


12X 


16X 


20X 


24  X 


28X 


32  X 


The  copy  filmed  hare  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

D.B.  Weldon  Library 
University  of  Western  Ontario 


The  imeges  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  apecifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  Imprea- 
sion,  and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  ^^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichfltver  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  ba  fll.ned  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


L'exempiaire  filmA  fut  reproduit  grAce  A  la 
gAn6rositA  de: 

D.B.  Weldon  Library 
University  of  Western  Ontario 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  4t«  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettetA  de  l'exempiaire  film*,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim«e  sont  film«s  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  aalon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmte  en  commenpant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derhlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  -^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE '.  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc..  peuvent  dtre 
film6s  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  il  est  film*  d  partir 
de  I'angle  sup*rieur  gauche,  de  gauchs  A  droits, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nicessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
leiustrent  la  mAthode. 


1  2  3 

I  I I 


32  X 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

University  of  Western  Ontario 

LIBRARY 

LONDON      .      tIANADA 

Class         VlO'S^ 

•ft     vx'TG 


J 


DATE   DUE 


WAR12W6; 


V\^ 


:  >-..'• 


:a  n 


10 


;.  0}^ 


CAl'I-;   SI'LIT,    IKOM    UAXTKlrs   HARBOUR. 


THE  EASTERNMOST  RIDGE 
OF  THE  CONTINENT 


HISTORICAL  AND  DESCRIPTIVE  SKETCHES  OF  THE  SCENERY  AND 

LIFE  IN  NEW  BRUNSWICK,  NOVA  SCOTIA,   PRINCE  EDWARD 

ISLAND,  AND  ALONG  THE    LOWER   ST.  LAWRENCE 

AND  SAGUENAY 


KDriKi)  HY 
GEORGE  MUNRO  GRANT,   D.  D. 


gur.i-N's  i;nivi;i(sitv,  kincsti 


ILLUSTRATED  BY  WGOD-ENGRAVINGS   FROM   ORIGINAL  DRAWINGS 

BY  L.  R.  O'BRIEN,  F.  B.  SCHELL.  HARRY   FENN,  A.  B.  FROST, 

W.  C.  FITLER,  AND  OTHERS 


t 


CHICAGO 
ALEXANDER  BELFORD  &  CO. 

1899 


Col-VHIlilli-,    iS,^, 

liv  .\LE.\ANU1:r  IlKLKORI)  i  CO. 


\^^'^3 


I 


C  O  N  r  H  N  T  S 


NKVV    HkUNSSWlCK 


NOVA  scon  A 


I'RINCE  KUWAKl)   IHI.ANIl 


lly  I  Has.  (,.   I).  KOHKR  IS,  M.  A. 

Ily  KIIW   U,  MIKKAV  ..ml   MRS.  A.  SIMPSON 

lU   KKV.  k.  MURRAY 


THK   LOWKR   ST.   l.AWRKNCK   AND  THK  SACUKNAV 

Ity  J.  (I,  A.  crkk;mton,  h.a. 


I  UMHKRINd 


lly  I'KlNCll'Al.  (IKANT  ^m.l   A,  ILEMlNc; 


HACK 
9 


•^7 


Ml 


In 
wi 
te 
ri( 
te 
la! 


ov 


ST.     JOHN,     I'ROM      HOklLANI). 


NEW    BF(UNSWICK*. 


q^HIS  is  the  province  of  ships,  if  xvo  may  tnust  tin.  device  o„  her  scutcheon.  She 
is  also  the  province  of  pine-trees,  of  sahnon,  „f  ,i,,ais,  and  of  hemlock-bark 
In  anticipation,  moreover,  she  is  a  province  of  mines,  and  would  fain  supply  her  sisters 
with  .ron.  and  antimony,  and  silver;  she  would  show  them  new  possibilities  in  archi- 
tecture with  her  princelv  red  granite.  By  „o  means  poor  ,n  natural  resources,  her 
r.ches  are  only  to  be  gathered  by  that  strenuous  effort  which  breeds  a  sturdy  and  de- 
termmed  ruce.  And  her  growth,  if  slow,  has  been  steady  and  sure,  made  up  of 
lasti.ig  bone  and  sinew. 

A   glance  at    the   history  ol    New  Brunswick  as    a    separate    province  will    take    us 
over  no  long  "Chronicles  of  wasted  time";    but,  as  a  part  of   ancient  Acadie.  some  of 


lO 


THh 


'■    /i-lSTJi/^NMOST  KHU;/- 


l'AHHAM,\(,il(ih|)v    H^y 


't        ^'"'■■'^    ^"    ''^''^^'    ""•    '•■'>     "f    France    were 

^-"  tlu.  .cy  .aters  of  Bel,.-,s L  ^  ^  ^;"   "^7^^  '"■    "'••"'  ''--a-o.-.      Co.in, 

'and.  h.  round  tlu-s.  coasts.   .,„   ^^  '"''"•""^  ^""'■-  "^  ^^^--^ 

^--^   Hpenin,   i„    .,,    ,,„„^    ^J^^     7";7"  ^"--.   '""--in,  ...aUows.  and    wild 
spacious  hay.  iu,.lf   one  mn,.ni,icc„t  harl  "'    I'    '""'    '""'    "^    "'"''""""^•"t-       To    a 

-obstrncted    ,.■    ...-k  o.    s'ho-d     ,, .  ',  '"  '^■^'^'  •^''■'■^   '''''"'^  f'-"  ■^•--  ^^  shore 

anchor  therein  on  a  burnin.  n^ontid'"!!"  "T"'  " '"  '''"'"""'"  ''^^'"^  ^"^^  ^° 
"^  Canie.s  was  only  a  llv-,,  vi^  i/  ^  . ""  -.e  te.pe.d  ,,,  „,,,  ,„^  ^„^^ 
;.-vc  no  further  attention.  '     '  '     "   '^'^'    ^'"^'    '^'    "'*-'    f»t.,ro    N.hv    Hrunswick    he 

From  the  north-east  corner  of   fl„ 
".  ™-^y  and  fa,-,,.„,  be,an     ,        ,        "T"  '"  ,'""  '■"'■'■'""  ""'""■"■'■»"     '""  "'-■ 

^-  -'-^  ..->• ..'  '.■'v.n.,..,:':  \  ■„::  '3-7-;'  ,'■'; ^-^-^--y  ».-'h  a 

mcuh  of  a  Krcat  river,  called  b,  ,,,e  „  ,■        r.  •■    '""  ''°'''    '""•'•   '"^'   ™'"'"1  ■!'« 

■■"    honcr    „,    U,e    day    „,    i./.V'",         '7  °"»*'"''>'-      "-"'«  "-"...ned  ,l,i,  „a.er 

-- ...  .„„d . ... ..,.,.  *nd;r  Sa;:;;:t:r::r:;:r  ^ 


OF  riih:  cox77Xj-:\T 


II 


another  broad  stream  ly  open  befort;  tlicm,  up  which  they  sailed  several  miles  till 
they  came  to  a  level,  srrassy  islaml  in  mid-river;  and  this,  strange  to  say,  they  chose 
for  the  site  of  tiieir  settlement.  Hoth  river  and  island  they  called  St.  Croix,  and  here 
the  little  colon)'  established  itself.  Without  fire-wood  or  water,  the  island  to  this  day 
is  as  desolate  as  De  Monts  and  his  company  found  it.  With  its  loose,  sandy  soil,  the 
scant  grass  waving  m  llie  winds  which  swc-pl  its  shelterless  expanse,  it  was  hardly  a 
tempting  place  to  found  a  home.  Hiii  the  explorers  considered  that  it  was  easy  of 
access  by  water,  capable  of  tlefense,  and  well  removed  from  the  surrounding  mainland, 
whose  heavy  forests  were  fidl  of  unknown  dang(,'rs.  The  remaining  months  of  summer 
were  bright  with  activity  and  hojjc.  .\  quadrangle  of  wooden  buildings  was  erected, 
with  a  chapel,  and  the  (iovernor's  residence.  In  spite  of  the  lateness  of  the  season, 
grain  and  vegetables  were  planted  ;  and  a  garden  was  laid  out.  after  the  fashion,  faint- 
ly, ol  those  old  gardens  in  France,  for  which,  it  may  b(\  the  colonists  were  now  a 
little    homesick.       But    in    the    b'  days    of     late    autumn    their    situation    was    dreary 

enough  :  and  because  their  crops  had  failed  to  rip(Mi.  they  were  compelled  to  live 
mainly  on  salt  meats,  a  diet  which  sjieedily  affected  their  health  and  spirits.  At  last 
winter  came,  and  the  snow,  and  ihe  freezing  winds  ;  such  cold  as  in  their  own  land 
they  had  never  learned  to  dream  of.  The  sleet  drove  in  through  the  cliinks  of  their 
ill-made    buildings.       buel    was    hardl>-    to    be    obtained,    and    th.e\     shivered    over    their 


j-iit{jiiiifi;'iiifCHiri'iiii 


.d..<^mc\:p\ 


Ir,: 


ST.     tOHN— B.\CK    OV     HARHOUR,     I.OW     TmK. 


13 


THE  EASTERNMOST  RWGE 


scanty   fires    till 

Person,,    bu,  r„„,.f„„  „,„^„„,    ^„|  _     J  -    easy   p.ey.      0„.  „,  30^^  e,y„, 

•hey  crawled   f„„l,   ,„   „„   ,„„  ,.,^  '"^'y-      When    ,„e  fi„,  „„„  j 

^y;n.    .intae.,,    .„,    „„    ,,,.,    ,„,^;''°"        ^  "'ely  c„„,d  ,„e  ...  be  .tended,  ■„. 

^■nppcd  of  all  .ha,  could  U-  carried  a„ay     L  f„  ,7'""    ""    "'""''    ""    "''''"'''""ed. 

™-«n.   or   ,l,c   colon,,  fcd    over  ,l,e  I    ,       . ' T  l     "T"'  "■™°""^''-    -"    "-   Poor 

"M  "  '5  a   fair   and  well.favonred    corner  of    N     '    „ 
;=""""'  -'"e-n.  in  ,„e  <,a,.,,  lo„j,  ,^,  Z.l  ''"'/■■''"-■*•  ■»is.  where   .ha.  a,. 
from  ,he  island  „„„  „a„d,  s,    Andrefl  •■'"™"^   °"    ™'''       No.   a   mile 

-1  also  one  of  .he  faire...      ,^tll  ""  *="  °'   ^'"'    "™-»   .own 

-el.    of   ,he    ,r,de  .ha.   formerly  I  !  /'"""P;'-^'   ""'  «..  John    has    drawn   off 

w-a.  remained  has  n,„„.l  „p  river  1  '"-"V"  "■  ^"''^  ""•'""•  »""  -'h  „, 
ore  S..  Andrews  is  now  more  dignified  .an  ,1/'^  "'"  "'  '''  """'"^  ^here- 
her  chief  ..eas.,re  lies  in  .he  hea  ,y  of  ,  ^  1  ':°"'  '  =™™-»'  P»""  »'  view,  and 
«-en  >va.ers.  .he  nnfailing  coolness  of  h  ZZ  '  """''  ""  """'>■  °'  "='  e.ear, 
-er.  all  which  ar.rac.ions  combined  make  I,"  a  ""d'  7,  *"*"""  •"">•'  ■"  »- 
«  .i.e  word  .ha.  con.es  .0  onr  .ho.,,h.s  wh  „  .7  t'"'"""  "--'■"M.ace.  Peace 
'l-°"S'..  is  of  sunshine.      How  .em„L„  .T  b.i  '"  "'""'°™'l'  ='"<'  "«  -« 

Siopin,  down  .0  .he  crys.al  lip  „,       "'.J     ^-^■-  "e  'he  Ion,.  „„„„,  ,„„^  ,^^^„ 

Andrews,  and  i.    is    done   hearrily.   hy  h     oy  „  ',"   "'  """   """^  '»   "»  '"   St. 

elderly  women  and  children.  The  waves  7  IT  '"""'  """  ""''  ■""*"=■  and 
"P  .he  sands,  and  .hey  do  „„.  ij,"  ^  ^l;:  ;:'-"^;''  "<>'  a»  .hey  come  lappin, 
'"  ""Hud^men,.  .hose  choose  .he  hce,  par.  wlo      '  ''  ""  ">'  "''''  '"  '""■  "nd. 

couched  in  .he  sand,  wa.ehin..  wi.h  col.  1  '.  '"""'''"'  '"  '"=  -rm  grass  or 

-ellers.      The   o.her   .hi„,s°which  T:t.Z77"°"\  ''"    ""^'   "  «-"'"'-' 
Per»nas,on.  are  .0  go  yach.in,.  on  .he  bay  and  V    '  ''       "'"   '"  "'""'«  "-h 

qnes.i„„able  deligh.  is  lobs.er-.,peari„„   ,„icr  h      """'  .  "^  '"°""'""-     ^   more 

»"h  .he  yach.i„.       ,„  ,„e  cool   of  ".he   m    „i         T'  '""""'"  '"'  "-^'-ion 

e«i.eme„.  i„  being  rowed  s.eal.hily     „e.  7      t  ""^    ""    "*  '""-  "-re    is   some 
■n  hand,  peers    sharply    i„,„    „,    JZsT,  '"""'   """■   """■'■=  ^'h  one,  .spear 

■evei  bo..om  a.    a   dep.l,  of   some        rir     i.  T:    T"   I"''    '"^  «    -'hor   on '.he 
•he   bo.,le-green    prey    we   are    in    sea  ch    „  ,  ''""    """^"^   -'  "eed   Inrl.s 

»io..r.    b„.    berrayed    by    his    red    pi.  .       Ko t^  LTr""''    '"    '"'™""^'"^'    '" 
h.ghes.  p„ch  af.e,  „  ,,,,  ^,.^^  ™°'    »'don,    .he    exc.emen.     reaches    i.s 

hoa.,  and  have  se,   abon.  an    inves "    „  "      :"    '""^'^'  ^^   ""-d   loose    in   .he 

•"P  .0  Monn.  Chamcooh  a  day  is  ch'osen  wl''!  TLrrr'  b"""^^'      ''°'  ^^ 

^  rests  on  the  bay,  as  far  out    .^ 


cheerfulness. 
'"   a   terrible 

some  eight) 
"  days  came 
attended,  the 

abandoned, 
id  the  poor 
'ouse  keeper 

ere  that  at- 
Not  a  mile 
vick   towns, 

drawn  off 
d  much  of 
s-  There- 
'  view,  and 

'ler  clear, 
s  of   sum- 
s'     Peace 
I  our  next 
'  beaches, 
do  in   St. 
Jens,  and 
-  'apping 
act,  and, 
grass  or 

gasping 
ut  much 
A   more 
bination 
is  some 
?,  spear 
on    the 
i   lurks 
ngs    in 
les    its 
in  the 
or  the 
out  .\S 


OF   THE   CONTINENT  13 

the  eye  can  see,  and  when  a  propitious  wind  promises  to  hold  this  enemy  aloof. 
.After  a  drive  through  lovely  country  comes  a  not  too  arduous  climb  through  deep 
clover  and  daisied  grasses,  under  the  shade  of  birche.s,  and  limes,  and  beech-trees,  and 
white  maples  ;  then  a  short  and  sharp  ascent  over  grey  rocks,  that  keep  liberal  beds 
of  scented  fern  in  every  ragged  hollow,  and  we  come  out  on  the  bald,  windy  summit 
of  the  mountain.  Chamcook  looks  down  upon  all  the  neighbouring  hills,  whicli,  to  say 
the  truth,  are  not  very  aspiring;  and  the  view  is  really  a  magnificent  one.  Out  across 
the  water,  which  is  populous  with  white-sailed  ships,  we  see  the  dark  iskud-duster  of 
'•The  Wolves";  and  beyond,  if  the  air  is  very  clear,  we  discern  a  low,  blue  line,  and 
hail  it  as  the  Nova  Scotia  shore.  At  our  feet,  in  the  noon  quiet,  lies  the  fair  little 
town,  wrapped  in  happy  and,  perhaps,  not  impossiijje  dreams  of  a  splendid  future, 
which  is  to  come  with  the  building  of  a  railroad  from  Old  Canada  to  a  terminus  on 
St.  Andrews  Harbour.  In  another  direction  we  follow  the  St.  Croix,  which  widens  into 
a  suggestion  of  a  lake,  and  contracts  again  before  it  reaches  St.  Stephens,  where  its 
waters  become  accessory  to  many  a  frolicsome  and  profitable  evasion  of  the  disagree- 
able myrmidons  of  the  customs. 

When  one  has  drunk  deep  enough  of  St.  Andrews  restfulness,  and  turns  his  face 
and  his  desires  towards  St.  John,  the  most  pleasant  and  least  orthodox  way  of  going 
thither  is  to  persuade  some  tug-boat  captain  to  accept  a  passenger.  Thus  one  cheats 
the  railway,  which  is  more  safe  tiian  swift,  or  the  regular  steamer,  whicii  is  tiresomely 
conventional,  and  quite  without  peculiarities,  agreeable  or  otherwise.  But  before  ship- 
ping as  a  tug-passenger,  it  is  well  not  to  omit  a  yacht-sail  to  the  Island  of  Campobello, 
which  lies  far  down  the  bay,  near  the  American  shore  and  the  town  of  Lubec.  This 
island,  some  eight  miles  long,  and  nowhere  more  than  two  in  breadth,  has  become  a 
popular  summer  resort,  and  the  site  of  the  modern  architectural  pomp  of  the  summer- 
resort  hotel.  Nevertheless,  the  island  is  a  delightful  spot,  and  struggles  to  maintain 
its  beauty  and  simplicity  and  wholesomeness  of  life.  It  has  the  attraction  of  being 
an  island  without  the  discomfort  of  inaccessibility.  Its  beaches  are  superb,  its  retreats 
are  secluded  and  romaiaic,  its  nights  and  days  are  temperate  and  benign.  In  the  way 
of  assertive  scenery  its  "  lion  "  is  the  bluff  called  "  Friar's  Head." 

In  selecting  a  tug,  or  getting  a  tug  to  select  us,  we  were  fortunate  enough  to  find 
our  lot  cast  with  one  which  called  at  St.  George  on  its  way  to  St.  John.  The  nomencla- 
ture of  this  part  of  the  country,  by  the  way,  is  rigidly  saintly,  the  causes  whereof 
tradition  fails  to  state.  While  the  tug  was  kept  in  uneasy  repression  beside  the  wharf  at 
St.  George  there  was  time  to  see  the  pretty  town,  which  has  in  part  transferred  its  faith 
from  lumber  to  red  granite.  A  wonderfully  picturesque  nook  is  this.  The  Magagua- 
davic  River  (pronounced  "  Magadavy ")  falls  a  hundred  feet  into  the  harbour  through 
a  chasm  not  thirty  feet  wide;  on  the  sides  of  the  gorge  are  fixed,  like  eyries,  several 
powerful    saw-mills,  from    v  i:ch    the  lumber    is   sluiced    into    the    whirling    basin    below. 


If. 

Hi 

I 


M 


r///:    /:.ISV7;RX.U0ST  R/fH^F. 


'     MT      CMAMCOOK. 


P""".  l..nv,.v„,   „„  ,„„„„„„„„  ,.    ;         ;  -    '^    ""    »l.~.n„,,    „f    „,„    „,,,„,    ,_,    ,_^,^ 

■"l.M.„.H„K   .Lin,,,,.,,.    a,„l    „„    ,„.,„,;,""   """"■'"»   "'   l*'''>-  «l»'"l«    '«„„    I,,,. 

^'  K""i.- ,-..,  ,1,..  „;>,  „,  „,,.  ,,;„;„"-■"■ """  "■""  •"•'  "■•  -"j'^i".^  i-vian,.,,,,  b,,. 

""■ ' o„„„;h„  ■„./;,:::";■';:;"";■:""'-'  «■■'  •■■'  ■'•-=  ■-><  ^ .i».i„„s  ,„ 

■'  "-.V  „i,„  „ v,,-„„  ■;  '    :;"'"■  ";;>'  -"" " "-  >■""  -<  ■■■■■y,  i.ri„i, 

i.x.«.». , c„,:,„;    .;,„",  "■;  """■-■  ■""'  "^'^•^"'  »i.'. » » or  „,;>. 

""'I  ->-■  .■,.,.1  „„„„  ,,    ,,„,„    ,„„„,,„     ,     ,   "'         ""    '«"'"■«  ^'l""  S"-    ,.„    f„„„    above. 

■"^  ■■ ...akin,  „,  ,,„„„%  ";  ■'"'[  ""  *■'   "■™    -^^»    -ln„„„„,,  „,„  ,,„„' 

-  "'  »■  „„.,-.   an,;         ,     ,V7"'."^'  ■*»■"  ■■'  •"■•  l-M.       W,.  »ai,  Co.e  „„„„ 

«" y  W,.„.    „„„,abi,.  ,       ,  ^^  "  '"■'"  ""'■'*"»■     -^  '-"  "f  ^.».-lo„.i„, 

-  »il-.'y  U  a„„  „;,l        ,'."■'/'""  ;■"";■■'    "'»"""'■"=''  '-   "•^-    K-.       T„ee 

...  (-   .,n.  .,„  >l„.  .b,W„«  »„rfaco  and  .,„,,„,„„abl=  eidcs 


a 


OF    77//:    (OVZ/X/^X /• 


15 


of   Fundy,  but   to-day  a  li-lit  lan.l-l.rccze  holds   it  at   a  distance,  and  shows  th<.   whoic  city 
I.iled   most  picturesquely   l.cforc  us.       Huilt   on   a  sf-e,.  an,l   rock\-  p.^ninsula,   with   lofti.r 
heiglits  behind   as  a  settin-    cn.uned   will,   uiany   spires,   and   opened   up    by  ohrnpses    nl 
wide,  steep,   busy  streets,   it    comes    tonelher  with    admirable    effect  ^- as    the  artist    say^ 
■•composes"    excellently.       .St.    J„hn    contains    n.,    white    buildin,i.rs.       All     is    orayston.. 
red-JMick,   or    brown-painted    wood. ---this    brown    a    local   an,l    characteristic    tiiU,   not    In 
any   way   to  l)e   departed    from.       'I'his    colourin-    under  a    i,road   sun    and    dear    sky.   i^ 
rich  and  solid  ;     but    when    the   fo-    roils    in    on   th<.    cit) .   and    hanys   for  days   toj^eth.r. 
the  jrloom  becomes  profotmd.       Nor  is    it    uiade    the    less  dismal    by   the    n.currenc;    at 
intervals  of  a  low,   sepulchral,   booming  sound,   from   nowhere   in   particular,   which  comes 
strugglincr  through   the  fog  as  if  from  a  damp  throat.       The  inhabitants,    however,   hav.. 
no  grudge  against   their  fog,   which   in  all   probability   is  responsible   for  the  peach-bloom 
complexions  with   which   the  city's  daughters    are  so  daintily  endowed.       If    this    be    the 
case,   even  we  can   forgive  the  fog  ;     nevertheless    slicIi  a  da)-  as    this,    when  sight-seeing 
is  our  object,   it  is    not    to    be  lightly  valued.       As  we  steam    up  the    busy  harbour    the 
scene    is    very    lively.       Large    and    small    craft    are    everywhere.    ,,t    anchor    imder  ban- 
poles,  flifting  across  our  way 
under  white  or  ocher-coloured 
canvas,    or    lying    three     and 
four  deep  along  the  wharves. 
Yachts    are   careening  before 
the  racing  breeze,  broad-bowed 
stub-nosed  wood-boats  ])lough 
their    way  unbending,  tireless 
little  red  and  white  tugs  rush 
hither    and    thither,    a    huge 
black    scow    on    each  arm,    as 
it  were,   and   at  the  head    of 
the  harbour,  where  shrill  .saw- 
mills occupy  all  the  available 
ground    by    the  water's   cd\re. 
the  lofty  shores   curve  round 
to  the    Carleton    side,   enclo.s- 
ing  the  forest    of    masts   and 
yards.     There,  too,  under  the 
guns  of  Fort  Howe,  lies   the 


C/uirybdis  at   anchor.       Since 

the    inestimable    boon  of    her   presence    has   been   confert 


WHAKF    \\     sr.    .\.\'i)Ki;ws. 


-(Ml      U 


sleep    unharassed    by    distpiietude.       They  rise 


pon    .St. 


the 


citizens 


HI    the    morning    and   look   out  with  con- 


r6 


Tllli   /■..isriiRXMosT  RIDGE 


ficlent  pride  to  the  spot   where  our    vo.n,.    navy    rides  .t    n„  I 

authority  that  St.  Join,  r  .nks  llfth    '        ^  '       ^*  "  '"'^    °"    g°°d 

c„  J:::;::::  r„z^.:: ;--,;-- ... .. . ... .  _,,  „,, 

r  .  lo,^.  iKrc    ,s  .,  seme    l,i,„||,,  ,„  ,,„  f„      ,  „,       , 

«-,rd  nn,l  ghcMit,   1„    „„.    „„■„    „„,„.   ,  ,  """""■     The  vessels  are 

siJe  on  „.e  lea<lo„.c„l„,„x..l  s,i,„„       Tl,..     »  I"' ^  """    °'    '"""''•*'    "'   "- 

-o„,„,  ,a,,„„„He.,  „„a  ,„.,..  ,;erj;;;r,  ;"";„:":'  *r:^'  "■=  -  -'» -= 

from  a  drain  that    .■„„„i,,    |,,,,.        ,,  ,  '  '"    "'"'""»    ^'"Pe   of   water 

of   wheels,    a„.,    th,.  u,        "'    : V"'""   ""■    ""'"'   ""^    '"""•    ''>=   "oise 

fron,   oar  sigh,.  '™""'-'    """""S"'-^    'vhich    the    fog   „as    veiled 

Before    investitratiri"-    the    rif\'     ,f    tu.  ■ 

...  "        ""  "^>    *''    '"^    present,    let  us    trlance    nt    tl,»      v  - 

A    history    belongs    to    the    site     ml    n   ■    M        ,        ,  '^^^    P^^^- 

old    Acain    an^is    of  "-od         "^'^'''^-"•'^"-'   ^^  ^'-    Jo'".       Revertin,   to    the 

at    St.    Croix,  we    hnj  a  ^eZ     .;:;""     "■^^"'"''^■^     '''''   ^''^    '^   '"'--^'^    ^^''-e 

St    John        Here    tl  ■        """      '''"""'''"''   '"^    '''"^    ^^   ^'^   --"^  of  the 

3t.    jolin.       Here    the    prospect    ,s    more    cheerin.r     the    hri.r'itn,..        f     . 

ance.       But    treachery   and    violence    do    their    .o;  d     if  '"  ^""■■""- 

r»„  »i      .  r   .  "oik,    and    the    gloom    acra  n    fali<! 

dependants.     There  were  oeace   „le„,  "^   °"'=''   '"'   ''"'"'""   «"<' 

on  the  streteh  of ,.:;;:::;.;:'::';:  z::z::\r" :  •"  "='""■■"  '- 

a.  eaeh  low-.ide  ,o„,  ranges   of  stake-net     ,iZ  Jo     „:"    'T'   '""'  ""'' 

and    the   surr„„„di„,   Torests    swar.ed    with    -a  B  t      a  T             r  ,'"        ""'""' ' 

lay  in  tile  possession  of  a  „„™,„      •  "  ''"='  S"'"'  '""""' 

for   a    nian'of   l,is     tan  „       Z^^^:  "T  "I  ''"'  ''""  ^"   ^"    '•'>•'   '"=   "'   ^"' 
peri..:   and  losing  I.er.   I'.e  ,0"     io'       '  tTe  'Z^^      is  7\  '""'t"  '"  '"''  ^"^ 

.0   .ain.       ,t    ,ras    .hr„„g„    the    vindie.i.e    ,e  lo^ ^  a  t    "'l       T\'''   "^"'^ 

Acn<l,c,    D'    Aninav   Charnis,,.    tint   n„  tro.her-lieutenant   in 

«™.l,p„.ed    anthorit,  over    ^^  f  :   .I       TlZ^tJ:''   TT  ■     """""^ 
possessions    while    his    hated    .ivd    wn       '  Cha.n.say  had    no    joy    in   his 

-....wed.i,ro.,gi,the';i::.:— rre^jriL:: 


i 


It  is  said    on   good 
cities  of  the  world. 

re  us  crowded  with 

g  expanse  of  black 

is    magnificent ;     it 

'y  the  dark  foliage 

Jrick    buildings,  all 

J    to  the    best    ad- 

>,  at  low  tide,  and 

The  vessels  are 

r    leaning    to  one 

the  wet  sails   are 

escape    of    water 

1  lium,    the   noise 

2  fog   has    veiled 

the  city's  past, 
'■^everting  to  the 
miserable  failure 
he   mouth  of  the 

longer   cont-'nu- 
gain    falls, 
tt   is   now   called 

This  fort  com- 
greater  part  of 
is  retainers  and 
e  well-built  fort 
ame    thing  still, 

in   abundance; 
-f  good  fortune 
ys  the    fit   wife 
:ed  to  his  pros- 
-ts   had   availed 
er-lieutenant    in 
ects.      Holding 
no   joy    in    hi<j 
ving    the    rich 
f   his   strength 


OF    run   CONTINENT 


'7 


f 


^^imfm^-»0^  glgg_^^, , 


A-L 


ifi  ylVii.  Ji.. 


FRIAR'S    UKAD, 
CAMFOBELLO    ISLAND. 


at  the  Court  of  France,  he 
was  soon  in  open  hostilities 
against  La  Tour  in  Acadie, 
and  intriguing  against  him  at 
Versailles.  As  a  result,  La 
Tour  was  charged  with  treason, 
and  Charnisay  was  authorized 
to  seize  and  hold  him  for  trial. 
But  La  Tour  was  behind  his 
He  mocked  at  the  royal  mandates 
of     Rochclle     came     promptly    to     his 


walls,    and    secure    in    the   justice    of    his   cause. 
Hiid    made    ready    for    a    struggle.        The     city 

iissiHtiince,  while  Charnisay  drew  reinforce-ments  from  Paris.  In  the  spring  of  1643 
Charni.say  suddenly,  with  a  large  force,  blockaded  the  mouth  of  the  St.  John.  Sup- 
plies were  low  in  the  fort,  and  a  ship  was  daily  e.xpected  from  Rochelle.  When  this 
arrived    it    was   signaled    to    keep   at    a    safe   distance;    and    one    clou 


idy 


a    boat 


i8 


////:■    /'..I.SVAA'.y.J/O.W   Rin(;H 


slii)ijccl  silently  out  of  the  liail)()iir    upon    ilu'  cblvtiilc.       Invisible    in    the    gloom    along 
the  Carlcton  slion-.  and  hcncatli   liic  rock)    heights  of   Paitridirc   Island,   it  passed  under 
the  very  guns  of  the  Ijlockadiii;;   sjiips,  aiul    La    Tour  and  his  wife  were  off  for    Boston 
Ml  tiif   Rocli(.-llc  vessel.        The  ni'xt  development  of  the  situation  was  the  appearance  of 
l.a    Tour  in   the  harbour,   at   the   head   of  fiv<!    Xew     Ivngland    ships;     and   Charniray  was 
driven  across  tile  l)ay   to    Port    Royal,  and   sharply   punished   on   Ids  own  ground.      Again 
he  e.ssayed   the  attack,   closely   investing    I'"ort    La  'I'our  in   the   hope  of  starving  its    dr- 
fenders    into    submission.       Hut    from    two    spies,    who.   in    the    disguise    of    friars,    had 
succeeded   in    penetrating  the    fort,   only   to    be    unmasked    by   Lady    La    Tour  and    con- 
tiMnptuously  dismissed   unpunished,   he  learned    that    La  Tour  was  absent,  and    that    the 
l)nst    was    under    command    of    his    wife.       Ivxpecting   an    easy    and    speedy    victory,   he 
straightway  ordered  an  assault,  but  was  met  unflinchingly  by   Lady  La   Tour  at  the  head 
of  the  garrison,  and    obliged    to    draw  off,   writhing  with    shame.       Hut    La    Tour  could 
not  always  be  at   home   to  guard    his  own.       While    he   was  away  on   a    trading    expedi- 
tion  his  enemy   returned,   and   found    the    garrison    weak.       l-'or  three    days    his    assaults 
were    repulsed,   but    through    the   treachery   of    a    sentry  he   at   last  gained    an    entrance, 
l-.ven   then   the  brave  woman    did   not    yield,   but   met    him  so    intrepidly  at  the  head    of 
her  faithful   handful    that    the    dastard    offered    honourable    terms  of    capitulation.       She 
accepted    th(?m,    to    save    the    lives    of    her    brave    followers.       Hut    no    sooner    had    th<' 
articles    b(;en    signed,  and    the    garrison    laid    down    their  arms,   than    Charniray  hanged 
every  man   of  them   but  one,   whom    he    forced    to  act  as    executioner    of    his    comrades. 
.And   Lady    La   Tour  he    led  to    the    gallows    with    a    halter    round    her    neck,  and  com- 
pelled her  to  witness   the  execution.        Her  home  destroyed,    h<;r  husband   ruined    and   in 
exile,  and   the    horrible    fate    of    her    followers    ever    present    in    her    memory,    Lady    L.i 
Tour's    health    gave    way,   and    she    died  within  a   few  inonths. 

After  these  things,  the  fort  at  the  .St.  John's  mouth,  as  well  as  that  which  had 
been  established  farther  up  the  river,  on  the  (iemsec,  passed  successively  into  the 
hands  of  many  masters  with  the  changeful  fortunes  of  war,  but  remained  a  mere  trad- 
mg-post,  and  attracted  no  permanent  settlement.  .Meanwhile,  over  other  portions  of 
the  country,  but  chiefly  along  the  north  shore,  sprang  \\\\  gratlually  a  very  meagre 
population  of  i'rench  and  half-breeds.  I'or  years  after  the  country  had  fallen  into  the 
hands  of  I-lngland,  no  Hritish  subject  could  safely  make  it  his  home,  by  reason  of  th<- 
hostility  of  the  Acidians  and  their  Indian  allies.  Not  until  1766  was  the  first  Knglish 
settlement  established  on  the  St.  John  River.  This  consisted  of  a  number  of  families 
from  Massachusetts,  who  built  .1  fort  on  the  mouth  of  the  Oromocto,  about  twehe 
miles  below  the  point  where  now  stands  I'redericton.  Six  years  before  this,  Mr.  James 
Simonds  had  attempted  to  establish  a  fisherv  on  the  St.  lohn  Harbour,  but  had  lieen 
driv(.'n  away  b\- the  enmity  of  the  nativiis.  V>w  the  16th  of  April.  1764,  however,  accom- 
panied  by    Mr.   James  White  and   Cajitain    Peabody,  with  a  party  of  fishermen,  he  landed 


X 


jT;Ioom   alonp 
passed   under 
ff  for    Boston 
:ippearancf  of 
Jharniray  was 
ound.      Again 
Irving  its    ^\t■- 
if    friars,    iiad 
our  and    con- 
and    that    iIk 
y   victory,   lie 
■  at  the  head 
i   Tour  could 
iding    expedi- 
his    assaults 
an    entrance, 
the  head    of 
ilation.       She 
ner    had    the 
niray  hanyed 
lis    comrades, 
ck,  and  coni- 
uined    and  in 
ry.   Lady    l.,i 


OF  /■///■:  (■(\v/7x/:.yr 


'9 


HKACON     LIGHT.     ST.     JOHN,  ..AT     LOW     .\ND     HKiU      IIDK, 


t  whicii  iiatl 
ely  into  the 
a  mere  trad- 
portions  of 
very  meagre 
Hen  into  tiie 
:ason  of  the 
first  Englisli 
r  of  faniiUfs 
ibout  tweK'f 
s,  Mr.  Janits 
lut  had  Ixi  n 
ever,  acconi- 
n,  he  landed 


on  the  site  of  the  present  city  of  St.  Jolin,  where  he  soon  succeeded  in  developing  a 
profitable  trade.  A  few  small  houses  were  roughly  put  together  among  the  woods  and 
rocks,  at  the  foot  of  what  is  now  I'ort  Howe  Hill.  At  length  broke  out  the  American 
War  of  Independence,  and  a  time  of  peril  and  loss  ensued  for  the  tiny  colony.  But 
for  this  came  ample  compensation  at  the  close  of  the  war,  which  may  well  he  called 
the  mother  of  New  Firunswick.  On  the  i8th  of  Ma\-,  1783,  took  place  the  "Landing 
of  the  Loyalists,"  which  meant  the  founding  of  St.  John,  and  within  a  year  the  sepa- 
ration of  New  Brunswick  from  Nova  Scotia  anil  its  erection  into  a  separate  province. 
The  landing  took  place  in  the  gray  of  the  morning;  there  were  no  signs  of  life  among 
the  chill  rocks  and  sombre  firs  of  the  peninsula,  save  where,  at  the  back  of  the  har- 
bour, the  handful  of  fishermen's  shanties  huddled  together;  and  the  prospect  was  not 
cheerfid.  But  these  exiles  were  men  of  fibre,  of  strength  and  steadfastness,  who  had 
so  strenuously  striven  in  defence  of  their  cause  that  when  the  cause  was  lost  they  had  no 
leniency   to    expect    from  the  vict  We  may  thinl-     hose  most  truly  loyal  whose   loy- 


20 


////:'    /:•.  lS/7:A'XJ/(,sr  RJlH.H 


alty    .s    .l,...>t.,    ..    u,.,,.  own  ..,„u.-ys  s.-vi...  ,.u.  lu.w.-v.r  tlu.  object  .nay  di.Tc.-    the 
sentnnnu   ,s  always  ih.-  sanu,.  fruitlul  ,„„il„.r  of  l,croic  action. 


"""1   l>""i    lli<-   l..v,-ly   l,„„l    Ihal  K.uc   them  hirll,. 

*  »  »  • 

Our  Kr.ui.Uirrs    |,,„m-,|,  ,,    hr.ur,    .IwcrmiiuMl    Land, 
nnvfii    liy    li.ir.l    Kai,--- 
As    nic-ii    wfic   (liufii    (if  olil, 
H'liiiM'    slDiy    liath    hrcri    tulcl 
In    lofiy    epic   strain— 
I'o    plain,   with    tMil    anil    p.iin, 
Upon    ,1    .lisi,,nt    sl,„rc,    an,|    in    a   str.ingf,    wild    land, 
A    new    and   glorious   State," 


Ac.  ose.  l>y  th,:  su.ft  .na.ic  of  energy  and  ..Tort,  amon,  the  n.isty  Leaches  and 
h..h,  hald  htlls,  W,tl,  jt.st  pnd..  St.  John  has  been  celebrating,  with  son,  and 
V^.   and   illun,ination.   and   f.-ee-iutnded   hospitahty.  the  hundredti,'  anniversary^^f  her 

Tlu.  nt.,.s,i„,  of  opulent  waters,  ...arded  snrely  fro.  even  the  crneiiest  droughts  by 
u,o,  ve^  .  U,e  fo„  St.  John  has  fonnd  her  enen,y  in  .i.-e.  On  Janna^  J., 
.^.7.  she  snfTered  frotn  a  terrible  eon.la.ration.  which  destroyed  over  a  Inntdred  hols 
and  shops,  nearly  a  thin,  of  the  bttsiness  portion  of  the  city.  Then  followed,  at  inter- 
val. „,any  n..n^  ,.r  less  disastrons  lires.  ..„.  inhnitely  the  ntost  drea.lf.d  was  that  which 
'-^  ^-:-  y^--^^^  )^^^'  ^^^^-  ^^::.  In  this  at  least  a  third  of  the  whole  city 
-  ■"^nd.tated.      X,ne   hottrs    sn.heed   for  the   swallowi.,  of  sixteen   h.n.dred  and   twe.v 

"""^^"\';V"''^^"'-"^-     '■'>••   -^>    '-■■'   i-.  .>.a.e   ,      thre.^  separate  parts  at  once. 
A   stton,   .,nd   fanned   .„e    llan,,..      The    roeKs    held    and    nndtiplied  the   fnrions  heat  till 

1:.:^"^  t  '^  '   '"■"^'"^'■'    '■'"'   ""^  '""^'   —  — '-  "f  ^-nit.  crumbled  to 

.■.n,e,,,,    away    swiftly    ,.,.    ,,.,.,,_      Vhe  stnol.  was  votnited   np  to  the  tops 

r     ;   "^      '":    '■'    '"■    ^"-^'-^    '-■       -n-   ships  in   the  harbonr  were  .any  of 

'':"\'"'''^'"'     '^'"•"   ^'"■>-   ' ''   -'■"■   ^■■'-   '■'<-■  ."oorin,s.     Coals    and    hot  ashes  were 

"'":*'  ^''"";  '"■  ''''''■'  ■""-  '''"""•  •"  '^->--i-n.  ci,hty-fonr  ndles  distant,  the  skv 
"  ";  ^""  ■'^^'^  ^^-^'^  '''-  ^'  -'"  ''  ''-  -I'l-  --1  'layl>n.ak.  When  the  llantes  died 
<-  alon,  the  water's  e.l.e,  all  the  city  sonth  of  Kin.  Street  had  ,one  down.  In  a 
tlay    or    two   the    centres    of    the    streets     n.,!    tlw 

.  "'"'^^    ■""!    H"^    "l'<'n    s.piares    were  cool ;    and  as    one 

walked,    ankle-dcen    m    the    soft    wUit,^    ■    '  .  i 

II    "1'.    solt,   uhtte    ..  ...es,   at    early    mornin.>;,   th,.  sa-ne    was    one    of 

most  we,r.,  and  desolate  grandeur.  The  snn  shone  ovc:r  the  da.din,  ripples  of  the 
bay  over  the  s,,.,.  and  soandless  spaces  whici,  had  been  streets,  and  against  the 
.nclottded   blue   the   th.n  sn,oke-wfeaths  risin,  frotn   the  cellars  and   tnasses  of  "rnin   took 


may  dillcr    the 


ty  l)oachcs  and 
ith  .son!,^  and 
ivorsary  of  her 


(^r    Tin-    COXTIMiXT 


Mm-' 


::./ 


II 


i 


St  droughts  by 
January   14th, 
undred  houses 
nved,  at  inter- 
as  tliat  which 
;he  wliole  city 
III  and  twelve 
parts  at  once, 
rious  heat  till 
e  crumbled  to 
])  to  the  tops 
:,^es,   fornu!(I  a 
ivere  many  of 
)t  ashes  were 
itant,    the  sky 
;  flames    died 
down.     In    a 
and  as    one 
was    one   of 
ipples  of  the 
aijainst    the 
)f    ruin   took 


■mM 


r  *v. 


•Rllfe^J 


,.,J-^-?;,.,(^^    »f 


MAUKI   I     SI.U',    sr,     JOHN,     AT     LOW     HUE 


a   sot,    «fr™„    ™l„„.      „,., ,   ,„„„,  ,„ ,^^,^    ,^„  _^|_ ^^ 

was    broken    by    the    cra-^h    of    ^nm,.    ,„  1        ,  ^'U'uit 

;     nil-    ui.iMi    01    .soiiii;    niasonrv  that    in     lir.M   \t.-..\(  .1  1      1 

„r    .,      ^  .  ,         ,  -    '^"•"-   "'"'   "*l'i   itselt   up   tlirou'di   the  stress 

of     he  tnal  and  now  topp-I  .■elu..,an.lv  to  its  fall      ,„  the  centre    ..f    th. 
in  the   open    country    abou 


ry    about    tlie    city,  wre  hundreds  of  tents  and 


s(|i;ar('s,   and 


sorr)-  cabins,    whereir 


la 


THM  /•   iSUiRXMOST  HIIH,H 


''''•WW^''I   ■'    >url    ul      -'il|<-n    tlipuih        1(1(1    in    ^.jmi       .    I        i 

ami  Oasfc*  rh.s,.   ,„     u-w,    tcHl-hrcl    that    s..,,..     t,vasu,vs    hul    h, ..,    ,• 

Hum  l)\  il,c  .■lulcav.Mii  ,,l    uiilinu  ^()lllnte(•rs      ()„,l        •.,■,, 
,  ,  ^   ^<"mue(r>,.     Un  th*    site  ol   (tnc  iso  .uci     |i,iiM,i    v.i,,h,.    ,i,  . 

./^..,  .„„„.,,„„,. „„,,,„ ,  „ , „,  „ ^,„.,.    ,;  ;, ' 

:r  ":v  « ■  '"■  --  ■^"^ « »"'■  •'■"«'"  .:.„,.:, 

'"•'»>^'  n    Im(MI.     was    icsiirrcctcil.       St      lohn     r !>,.  i 

-ilamity,   and  ,...  fn.„,   h.^  fall   with  a„  ..„-,•,>    an.l   vitality  th  ,.    » 

til-,.   Ivwl   i>  I   ■  I  •  Mi.iiii\    thai    u,.,,.   iiiarv).'  bus.      All 

'"■"   •^•"'   •"  ■•'   '-'   —   was   ,...huih    w,th   ad.U.cl   .sple„cl.,a..    a.t.l   th..    ,....  .itv   will  ..„ 
an.  .on.  than   lavo.-al.l,   i.,   its  a.hit.......  with  cities  .nan,  .„„..  .ts  st.      ^     Z 

•"■.   :"'    ^"    •"•"■''    '"     "'■•■    '-imal    lock... .,.    ,.„,     ,,,,.,,,^    ,„.    ^,,,,,^    J'    • 

n'mnulns  of  that, unVvously   s,a,.onn,   blow.  ""'' 

What    appears  to  the  visitor  as  only  one  .itv    .■..■.IK 

'iM\    ()n(    cit\    n-aiij    consists    ol    two,  connLcled    !■■ 

;' "; "  "■■■'■'^'' ""'"'  ""■ ~  ■'  • V  '-in,.,  ,■„....  ,„,„ , ,,  ,„„„ ,  ; ,„^ 

nit   throujrh  the  solid  Devonian   rock    « hi,  h    ,o,.  i  i"<      trcas  arc 


CI 


'•"«■    one's    whole    time    in     St      John     ,nn..     I  ' 

'« ■ ---  n..... „,„. ,:„: '  ::;;;:;: ,::■-'"; .--"'^ 

"■'■  '™7'7'  "■""•■■ "'  ^■»"»''»  ■■'  ■^'-  J -  is  pro,,,,,,,,  ,.„„;,„„,■,„  ,..;:„' 

"'".I.-   I-".-.    II.."..    Hill,  is   ,.,rm„,„u.-,l    l„    .,    |«,,„    „,   „„  ,  "' 

'""  '"'"  "'■  '"  ■•^'^•"    "'■"    ....'>     i..    ........rcJ   crovic,..    ,„, ,„    ,.„„,,. 

^ : ■^"    '"■,    "■'■    » ■'    •"    ""■    ■..'. -i..  I.ill-«ra»,,,      ,.>„,„  „  ,.  : 

7'"" '"  ■",: "'  ""■ ""™  '■■-'" - .- ..i..e.i  I,,.  „„. .,v  s;,;:;  ;; 

,.:..::: ;  i ,:"::,;  .""■  ;^-'-  :■^'«'■■  '^-^  or  ..,„.  h.«i„„  „ 

Ol    tne    l)usy  va 'e^  s    ■  vnt  wh  r h   lir.i  .     ■       .      i  i  mwu.-, 

th^   i„.  1      •  ,   r,   .,  '     ^'^^^  '"^   roarinj;  tormina     station    of 

he     „™l„„„,  ,<„,„.,„,.  ,i„„    J„r,„,-»    Hill.  ..„„  i,s  «o., .,  „,  ,,,„„    ,„„,i„„  „ 


4 


C'/''    /'///;•    (  OXV/.V/iA/' 


»H 


I'll  I'ilfs  <»f  liultlcs 
ncrcd  (iiK  ol  ihc 
<l  lii|luir  store,  tUr 
n  poking',  wiili  ,i 
whenever  ;im  nr|, 
'j<ral     aitl     in     h,r 

■  iiiiirvflloiis.  All 
LM  (ity  will  com- 
s  si/c.      liiit  even 

ff'cis     ui<)     vivid 

v<>.  connected    Ity 

■  jiilin  and  I'on- 
t  the  streets  arc 
the  neijfjibourinjf 

'■'vcl,  but  as  a 
i>\vn  liill.       It    is, 

and  I'xquisiteiy 
■'t.  John  pnrticn- 
i)alanceil  hy  the 
ry    exercise.      In 

hy  two  |)osse.s- 

a   pocket    cork- 

il  hills,  chief  of 
omniandinp  the 
I  <lips  is  there 
i>    one  of  these 

■  l'^'-    city   and 

■  b  i'n.  From 
of  light,  which 
anil  movement 
air.     In    sharp 

vhich  lie,  Mack 
lose  rijrtrinjr  is 
ost  tumultuous 
nal  station  of 
Us.  Ieadin<j  to 
M's  .i,^Ieam  like 


'■■'■'i^i 


•^  J'. 


SALMON     WI-IUS.     ST.      lOHN     HAKBOC'R. 

red  stars,  and  the  massive  walls  of  the  hospital,  witii  two  or  thr(  hi;^di-steeplcd 
churches,  loom  heavily  against  the  pale  sky,  touched  with  white  light  wherever  a  vane 
or  metallic  roof  corner  catches  and  throws  back  the  Hooding  brightness.  Yet  farther 
to  the  left  lie  the  unligiued  expanses  of  the  marshes,  with  a  far-ol  gleam  from 
(Jourtenay   Bay's    indolent  waters. 

Hardly  appreciated  by  the  inhabitants,  yet  perhaps  the  chief  attractions  which  St. 
John  has  to  offer  the  artist,  are  the  quaint,  picturesque,  dilapidated  "bits"  to  be  found 
about  the  back  of  the  harbour  at  low  tide.  Small  houses  and  sneds  of  the  oddest 
shape  are  built  out   from   the  face  of    the  rocks,  ported  above  reach   of    high   tide  by 

gaunt  piles,  rickety  with  age  and  shaggy  with  long,   brown  sea-weeds.      In    other  places 


<y». 


24 


THE  EASTERNMOST  NUHiH 


V  .'"   '"  ^'"■■^'  '^  -'^-'   "PO".  and  b..il.   f..„  .,  ,.         ^ 

all  pos.t,o„s  and  in  adnurable  disorder   with  rc-fus.    '  r'""'"''  ""  ■''■''■^'  P""'  '" 

an.l    barrds;    .i.,  ,,....,  ,.,,  ,,^,„^,^  ^^  ^^       "       ^   '"-  al..,..  and  under,  and  boat. 

;•-;■"  P-  and  roo.  tree.     S.etc.L.;:^  ;:'■::,  :''  ^T':-  ^'^  "^PPi". 
'-''.   '"    tile    absence    o.f    tlie  /isl,    ,„,|<c.    .   in        •        ',  ^'^''  P'''^'^"'''"^  ^^^  drying- 

could  not  be  improved.      „.re  one  is  in '  .„     "T""'  '''"'■'   ""'    ^'^'^'""^    ^'^^    ''-» 

-'^'  corners;  the  .ar..,u.ed  water  ,1J^.Z'L  ^^""''  ,"  '""^'  ^^  ^^^^^  and 
0^  sea-weed.  and  iiashin,  its  ,ay  spLies  .  b  t.  r;:  """  ""''^'  "-'"^  ^'^^  '-- 
form.     Down    fro.    tlie    crest    of   tbe    rock    bv  '   '"'"'•'    ''"''^'■^    ^^   ^'^   P'^t" 

footed  and  bare-headed,  ,reetin,  o.r  ad.ir.^'o  ul^  "'TT  ^""'^^  ^  ^'^'^  ^-^- 
we  ga.e.  she  vanishes  within    the   door   of    oL  th  "■"  '"''^'"^^-     ^^^"    '''■^ 

later  on   the  roof  of  another,   where  she  proceeds  to      ^    '"'"'    '"    ""^'^"'"'    ^    "^°"-- 

When  one  makes  .p  his  n.ind  to  fo  sals       ol        '  T  '"""""  °"  '°  ^^^• 
or  Maritiniers  the  .-Celestial-  cit,  he  had       t^  ^'     '\  "--l-icton.  in  the  ,an,..a,e 
on.er  wa^-.   b.  what  matters  that  to  the   st,:::^   Jl   r"!;     ''';  '^'  "^   -"-  '"^ 
loss  than  s.xty  miles;  by  river  it  is  ei<duv  f  ,  ■'    ''•"'    '°    '^'"eclericton    is 

a-^'  all  so  fair  that  one'co.d  wil  ^^^  '^      ""   '''-  ^"^"'>'-^-^  ^^  each 

passengers  at    Indiantown.    about  three  miles  from"VTT'       '''!'"    ^'""""'    '^"^^   '"   ^^^ 
f-.^'n  is  usually  put  aboard  at  one  of    the  c  u       ,        ^  '""'    •""'"■    "'^^    ^•■^"^-      The 

'1-  waits  till  the  tide  serves  to  pass  tl'  Ml  :''^'  ''''''  ''"  ^'""^'  ^^^  "^  boat 
tl-  man  of  the  pencil,  we  classed  ourselves  .^ 't'  ." '^"■'""""'  '^t  th-  instigation  of 
at  the  comfortless  hour  of  four,  just  on  the  "l  'r  ,'  "  "'"'"'"*''"''  "^  ^"^"^  ^harf 
''^-".'^  the  falls.  This  cataract  is  :;•,;!::/:  "^''^^•^'  ''"  ''-'■  ''-  -  ^°  "P 
^«  --'^  .ettin,  up  at  daybreak  to  become  ..J:J:;::,  T""'  ^'"'  '''''''''■  '^ 
amon^    waterfalls    in    bein^    reversible       At    one  J  '  "    ^'"'"'^  ''''""^'  ^lone 

'--^    '^    i^    ralhn,    in    the    other    di.ctil!:    Z:Z  ^  ' "  ""■'"^^'""'   '"  ''    ^-^• 

course,    to    settle    the    matter    ilnallv,    and   'behold     H   ■""   '"""""''"■'^'      '■""   '■^^'"'•"'    ^^ 
Vou   look  down   from   the  suspension-brid  'e    a  I"    '^     ""    "    ^'"'•^^    "^    ^    fall. 

surges    assaultin,g    the  ,n-av    walls    of    the\;oU  "'    '    """"'''^^    """^''^    "^    '"^cl 

and  there  with  gently  wheeling  foam-bubbl^  ^  Th'"  ""  "  '''""'  ""■'"'"'  "'^'^'^"^  '-- 
away  swiftly.  And  it  is  not  strange  that  vess  I  '  '"T''  "  '""  "''"'""-•>-  ''  Passes 
-^  '^^^;-  -.ent  of  mid-tide.  Ti:  .^L  :  l":  l:!"  ^^  ^  '^  ^^  ^^  catch 
■■^    nearly  500  miles  ion.,,   an.l    four  or  five   in   1  ,  "'"'"      '   •'"'"'    '''■^■-■'  ^^'>'ch 

^'^>''  -   '»i^  point   .inds  its  wav  to   t^^  Z  Z       T  ''    ' "    ^^^^^^    above    the 

throws    across,    spanned    by    .    susp..nsion-bricir  '   ^[^"'  T '": '  '"""'"  ''  ^^"- 

'-bour.    the    accumulated    river-waters    fdl  '    ,  ""    """•'■''""-'-  emptied  the 

«lnice-.ate.      As    th-    tide    return,    th-    fu,,,    .,/','       "    ''''''""    '"'    ""•-^''    a    mi.hty 

K-'nai!y  ch,.k.d.  .1,  . ,.,,,  ;,  ,.^^.,,„;      ;;^  ;-;;i-  ;■•  .11^.1..,,.,,  ,,,  ,,,...  .^ 

-..ns  while  the  antagonists  take  a   breathin..  sp-.ce       H  '"""   ^'""'   '"^•'  ^'"'- 

-    '•''•      "'"    '"Oil  (he    tremendous    Fundy 


OF   THE   CONTINENT 


25 


"n  stilts,  piled  i„ 
under,  and  boats, 
ircd  sails  flappinjr 
tforms  for  drying 
lulling-   place   that 
mi    siinsliine   and 
■ivincr  the  tresses 
rils    jf   the   plat- 
nies  a  girl,  bare- 
^'liter.     Even   as 
pear   a    moment 
ts  out  to  dry. 
ni  the  languagf; 
of   course,   the 
I'Vedericton    is 
>'-four  are  each 
'■    takes   in   her 
lie    falls.      The 
■'nil    the    boat 
instigation    of 
North   Wharf 
am    to   go    up 
cataracts.     It 
'  almost  alone 
ion,  in  a    Icvc 
ou  return,   of 
^'    of    a    fall, 
milt   of    mad 
flecked    here 
■y  ;    it  passes 
eek   to  catch 
'"^iver.  which 
^   above    the 
'i''  of  stone- 
emptied  the 
1    a    mighty 
lie    river   is 
.  and  fjuiet 
ous    Fundv 


tide  .verpowers  the  river,  bears  it  down,  and  roars  triumphing  through  to  brim  the 
upper  l)asin.  Before  it  can  accomplish  much  in  tliis  direction,  however,  its  retreat  is 
ordered,  and  the  recovering  river  presses  heavily  on  its  rear.  This  battle  is  f(>u<dn 
twice  every  day;  and  the  river  is  so  far  successful  that  it  holds  its  freedom,  and  can 
never    be    subjugated    into    a    tidal   river  with   drowned   shores  and   banks  of  ooze.      The 


SUSI'IiNSlON-BUmOK,     ST.     JOHN,     AT     LOW    TUJE. 

St.  John  is  able  to  guard  its  narrow  ppss.  \V<Te  the  gate  to  i,e  thrown  wi<!e  open,  as 
are  those  of  other  rivers,  the  barbarous  hordes  of  the  tide  would  overwhelm  miles  on 
miles  of  the  low-lying  centre  of  New   Brunswick. 

Soon  after  we  embarked  the  boat  cast  off,  to  make  the  passage  of  the  falls,  and  then 
waited  at  Indianlnum  till  nine  oVlork  for  passengers.  Exquisitely  fair  appeared  the  sleep- 
ing city  as  we  drew  off  from  tlu^  wharf,  and  the  scene  came  out  broadly  before  our  eyes. 
The  day  broke  in  saffron  and  cool  pink  b-'hiud  roof  and  spire,  and  sleep  streets  and 
piled-up  w.-dls.  Coils  of  mist  got  up  sluggishly  as  we  ploughed  through  the  eddying 
waters.  As  we  n.'ared  tlu.-  suspension-bridge  the  cliffs  tow.Mvd  higher  and  high(>r  above 
the  saw-mills  fringing  their  base.     The  mills  were  waking   into  shrill   life  as  we  steamed 


-6 

"=-:"-.:^:;::':X:;,:;;;::::;::;«--™.-..^ 

'  "     '"-".^^"""n,^'  to   open,   an.l   low 


icciirately.      We 
■    white    surges 


"itS-  .' 


SftS-M) 


«r^ 


"^'■"'^'<-'  TON.     ,,,„     ■,„,       „v,.K, 


■^J^ 


Hvr,.   Icapinu    up  and    sinkin,^.      T 


he 


passage 


"■'■'"-•    ^-'     '-'    '^'     .1. :o,.„  ;:  7'^  ;^;"  -^^^^   """--.,  an.  .i.h  a  ,n,„nv 


"""'        '^^'-   "''"'•  -  '...Id  o,;,.  ,„,,,„,    ;;„;  •  ""'   7^"  ^^^■'-'•'"^   --hi  toward  Indbn- 
'^^■"'"^    ^--'--    "^    nnn„n..n,    da,-,.    ....„;?::  I"    l"'  "'"   '""'''^^^'    ^   "'^'--'  that  the 


"7^"'"^    ^--'-■-    "^    -.n„...n,    da,.,.    ...,  :  I'"":''  ""■   '''^'^-   ^   --'  that  the 

advertiser.   ,i,t„v   ,„,,„   ,.,„   ,,„^       ,,_        -"  -"    ^iosed  about  ns  .as  dehied  .,  the 

'•-'""^  -''■  -■•-   ,.n,dai„,ed   .,..   .„,,„„:,  ,,       "'    '-"™'o— L  and   crude  white,  and 
-'■ver  Hes  the  power  „.   |..,,„,   .„,,,   ^..,„^,   ..'"'^  ;'   ^•■':'-"  '"■  ^'-^-.x      In   whose  hands 
"-   "-   F-owe,.  ,..  ....e,,ed.  '"''^'"'  "'"  ^'--^  "^  '^t.  John  should  .eo  to  it 

^^    tl"'    Ix.al     su-in.r.s    oft     Ir  l 

■,""■  f^---.-  -  ...V  i.n,w,,',',"'„'":,"',';r'„'" ','""'""""" ""' ''""'-  "'■  "'"'"si. 
':■""■"■'>■ ' ■  I., ,;    r, ;;  "„  ™-  '"■■  "-■--•  - :» ..<-..  „.„ 

"■ ■'^''  I"'"'  ""■«>■  '.«  ,,l,„v,.   ,,,   ;„     ""    "  "'■'» """  .--».l  .-.11  .1,.  .-oa,.  .,.„ 

■"  'l-^i.-  «ra„i,i,    ,„„„,  ,,,,„^,  ;:■    "H  -.1  a.  .l,i»   ,,l.,,  ,„„.,  „,,  ,„,ij  ,,.„^ 


OF   run   CON J'IMiX  r 


27 


iiite  accurately.      We 
"I  low,    whit,,    surges 


'^1^ 


^3 


'I  with  a  mighty 
L'    iindcr-currcnts 
1  toward  ladian- 
noticcd  that  the 
s  delilcd  by  the 
rude  white,  and 
fn  whose  hands 
liould  see  to  it 

''^    "!'     through 
'''■'It     outlet    of 
is    said,     hatl 
lands    west  of 
I  lie  present 
■aring  asunder 
he  coast  west 
tile  solid  hills 
iiiiiels  of    the 


■>^<r^;-  ■  ■  «='.,;,.,.,,.  ^i*i-A  S?. 


'^'  I' 


a8 


THE  EASTEA'.VA/OST  RIDGE 


river.     There  ic  -»  f.-^  r^- 

*  .-^.,. r ::::-:: .rr  -  -  r  ^^'-^  -  --  - 

A  vanafon    of    M,e    story    is    that  a  great  leav   "  '  -'^'"^  '°  '''^^^"    ^^-•-'   i^" 

"-«"t  b..i,t  a  da.  across  the  otulet.  11     7^Tl  "'°"  '"  ^^"'-  '^"^  ''"    °- 

a"<l    drowning    the    people.     Even    nou      wh  '    "      ^""'"'^^ '""'^  '^'^^^  ^^^  --sh. 

^-"ets,   it  finds  -the  Narrows  ■erTnsffir  ^'^'^^    '    ■^^^•°"^^"    -■'''    '^^    ^P^n. 

'he  intervales.  "'    *"""^"^"^  ^  -  -i^.  and  is    driven    back    upon 

Here  and  tliere.  as  we  passed,  fron,  niches  far  ud  in  M 
P'c-  we  noticed  s.dden  puffs  of  white  smoke   f  ,  --y-coloured  naked  preci- 

-d  then  by  the  rattle  J  falling  ro  Is        t  ^     T  '"  ^  ■^^^°"'  "^  '"'^  '^^  "^  """  ^-- 
walls  drew  apart  before  .s.  anc    we  st  a  ,  ,       """"  ^'^'^  ^'  ^^-^-     ^^  'he  great 

'a^o'ike  e..panse    of    Grand    Ba;     t  ^  7)' I  "'^^  ^'^^^°^^^ "  '■•"^^^  ^'^  "^P'-^'-^ 

^-ecn    shores,    sharply   cut    off    f^o.  '      """'"^-     '''^    ^^'^^'^'^   -'^-^e.  bright- 

"'«    sapphire    of    the    wind-wrinkled 
waters  by  a   fringe    of   red   and    yel- 
low   beach,    and    dotted    with    white 
homesteads    glittering    keenly,    wore 
a   delicious    freshness    and   purity   of 
tone    under   the    unclouded    blue    of 
the    sky.       To    our    right, 
I'otween  two  rounded  head- 
lands   crouched    in    guard, 
opened  the  beautiful  sheet 
of  water   called   the    Ken- 
nebecasis,  which  would    be 
esteemed    a    mighty    river 
could    it    but   escape    from 
the   neighbourhood    of    its 
miRhtier     sovereign.        For     the 

lower  eighteen  miles  of  its  course 

it    averages    two    miles    i„    breadth,    and    is 

;y:  ^or  sea-going  craft.      Tradition    has 
"  t"at  the    measured  depth    of    th^    k- 
at  !»„    •         .  ^         '    the    kennebecas  s 

at  Its   junction    with    the   St    fnhn    • 


A     VIEW     IN     FRKDERICTON. 


tlie  World's  Fai 


>•  at   Paris  lifted  St.  John  intt 


OF   THE   CONTINENT  29 

the  broad  blaze-  of  fame  as  the  home  of  the  champion  oarsmen  of  the  world.  Hither 
came  the  Tjiie-siders  to  wrest  away  their  laurels,  and  here  fell  dead  in  the  struggle 
their  gallant  stroke,   Renforth. 

But  as  we  discourse    of   these    things    to    the    man    of    the    pencil,  revolving   at   the 
same    time    many    other    memories    which    are    the    sweeter   kept    for    private    delight, 
we   lose   sight    of   tlie    crouching    headlands-the    vision    of    the   guarding    Mounts-and 
passing  one  or  two   low  islands,  brimming  with  wealth  of   grass  and   scented   clover,  we 
enter  on  what  is  called  the    Long  Reach,  and  there  is  open  ahead    of   us    a   stretch    of 
broad  water  unswervingly  straight  for  nearly  twenty    miles.     The    shores   rise  from   the 
water's  edge  lofty  and  thick-wooded,    and  bright  little  villages   sparkle    in    all  the  nooks 
and  hollows.     What  a  fresh  wind    draws  down  this  long  funnel,  dashing  into    our  faces 
the  thin  crests  of   the  white-caps  and  the  spray  from   our    vessels   bow,  and   compelling 
us    to    hold    fast    our    hats !     A  boat  is  seen  to  put  off   from  the  near  shore  ahead,  and 
soon    there    is    a    hoarse    whistle    from    our   steam-pipe  and  we  slack  speed.     Here   is   a 
"subject,"  and  he  of   the  pencil  whips  out    his   sketch-book,  makes   one    futile   efTort   to 
divide    his  attention  between  his  hat  and  his  prospective   sketch,  then    snatches   off   the 
hat  and    witii    an    air    of    heroic    determination    sits    upon    it.     The   approaching  boat  is 
rowed    by    a    seedy-looking  Charon.      Its   bow    is    high  out    of   water.     In  its  stern  is  a 
solitary  female,  dressed  in  her  best,   with  many  blossoms  of  divers  hues   in   her    bonnet 
-muslin  blossoms-and  a  much-fringed  parasol  held  with  dignity  between  the   sun    and 
her  complexion.     At  her  feet  is  a  barrel  of   corn-meal,  freight  consigned    to   the   corner 
grocery  of  some  more  remote   up-river  village,  in  the  eyes  of   which  this   on    the   shore 
beside    us    is    almost    a    metropolis.      Our    paddles    are    vigorously  reversed   as  the  boat 
clo,ses  under  our  lefty  white  side;    one  of   the  <•  hands"  grapples  her  bow  with  the  iron 
beak    of    a    "pike-pole,"  she    is   held    firmly    to   our  gangway  in  .spite  of  the  surge  and 
wash  from  the  paddles,  and  barrel  and  female  are  deftly  transferred  to  our  lower  deck 
In    another    moment    we   are    once    more    throbbing    onward,   the    skiff    dancing   like   an 
insane  cork  as  it  drifts  back  in  the    yeasty  tumult  of  our  wake. 

At  the  head  of  the  Reach  are  two  or  three  islands  of  a  pattern  not  generally 
affected  by  the  islands  of  the  .St.  John.  They  are  high,  rocky,  and  mantled  in  spruce 
and  f^r.  b.rch  and  ha..matack.  The  typical  island  of  the  .St.  John  River  is  a  low 
luxurious  fragr.ient  of  intervale,  edged  with  thick  alder  and  red  willow,  with  here  and 
there  a  magnilicent  elm.  and  here  and  there  a  hay-stack.  One  of  these  Lslands  which 
we  pass  has  no  apparent  reason  for  its  existence,  save  that  it  serves  as  a  rim  for  a 
broad  and  shallow  lake,  beloved  of  duck  and  rail.  As  we  pass  what  looks  like  a  very  long 
.sland.  we  mfbct  upon  the  artist  a  reminiscence  explaining  the  name  of  this  curious  bit  of 
land  structure.  Some  years  ago  the  writer  made  the  ascent  of  the  St.  John  in  a  birch-bark, 
and.  naturally,  always  hugged  the  shore  to  avoid  the  force  of  the  current.  Toward  dusk  he 
saw  before  him  what  seemed  the  foot  of  an  island.     To  shoreward  the  current  was  delight- 


TH/i   HASTHKMMOST  R//)(;e 


-tr:;:;;;:;:;:;;:;;ir;i;j::'; r'r-— '«' 

>oo  la,e  co„»„,.„,,  ,„,,,  „„,  ,„,  ..  .,„..\         ,  rV,''    .'"^'T  ''''"^  """  "'-'■"- 

retinue    of    n,„„|„it„„.  ,„,    ,„„,,.    ,    „  .  ,  /  '"'''■     " '^"   ""T.  ""!'  an  at.entiv,. 

•""■«'...  an.,  „.,„   „  „;,        :;„"'"    """■"■    "'    »    ■■■"«    "'    -"-•    .Hron^h    „„. 

width  all  the  „,„.  ,„   ,.> ,,,,„„"'       ""'"':^    ' ""    »"■"" «.    a„.l    l„c.en»e,    i„ 

present.     T„.  .;„■,   „  „        .  ,„':;,""".""";'  '»  ■""'"■'■■'  '"  ' -  L".  it  is  -ve,- 

because  i„  ,,,„,„.„,  ,„  ,,„       '     '  ^ J'^;  '-"r-     '^ee„.  ,„    „„..„„„„,„   „,„„„^, 

i.  bea.  „™.,.,  „,„/„  ,j:  y  "..:::::.r"7'  '"""•-  ■■' "-  "■  ^" 

.■oll-con,cn.c,l    fa™s,..a.l,^„„,„ ,  ,     '    "'"■"•■    '"    "-  ""o.k  are  scattered  the 

al.vo    w,-t„    bl.,ct.„i„,.    „.„„;„,    ,„ „..,„    „,„,,"  ,,.\^"~'""«     "'"^"^    "'   <'^•"^■ 

ronndcd  sombre  hiMs ;    and  fr„,„   ,|„.„  ,  '  '         '""       ''■■*'"•'    »"    "re    the 

-cnitons    courses.    <le.  ,                          ^  '   l'  """"  '"  ""™^'"«  '-»■  •■"<'  «-'  '^Z  hv 
with  sreen.  "'  ""'■  """   '"'"  ™   ■"-  ''"» -i.-ir  han^s  curtained 

-"i^  :i;:''„™;::"c;:;;: ::'?,;"  r"  -'>-  --  --  -  «r„ps  ,„  „„e 

.'i't    of   «ra r™.s    or      a  T"    """ '    """    '»'"   »"    •■1"»"y    "ountifu, 

.i- .a,rstl„,„,ul,  silver,    a  ^rea        7'  "'T  ''"   "™"   """    "'"   ''"■^'  »""   "-«» 
Piantin,.  thirst,  under  tL"  ,::;,:  ;;,.,  ^^  ;™^»  ^-"^  -'■  '-e  „lo„«hi„,  „„d 

VV,.  •>.  "  ''  "'^  "■•■'t''''  with  n   si.rlit 

We  pass  upon  our  l,.ft    th,.    i;,,|,.      i,-     ,  ,  " 

-'  i»  "o».....  to  „e  found  a  :!:.:':r:i::T " "■  '-"-■  -• 


"Oil.    so    drowsy  .'     In    .,    f[■^,^. 
.Swe.-.ti„u    ■n,i,|    ,|„.   j,„,,|p„    |,_.j^^.^ 
With   iis  „,u.   whii,.   ro„    or  street 
Carpelftl   .m,    jr,cen    i„„|   sweet. 
AntI    th     loungers    smokinjr   ^,j|| 
Over   ^r;,ie    and    window-sill; 
.Volhinjf   coniiPfr,    nothini;   going, 
Ucusis  grating,  one  cock    crowin.,. 
Few    things    moving   up   or   down. 
All  things  drowsy-Drowsytownl" 


Canoeintr  in  the  old    ,|.,, 
wHat    his    halt,  .h/envfl      "   ""  '  '"  -'^'^••o.-rhoo.l  of  Capetown,  no  .att.r 

^^■'-""    --    apt  to   push   throu,h   the  h-ly-pads  to  shore,  rest   his 


OF    run   CONTINHNT 


3' 


and  rejoicing,  for 
er ;  and  his  chart, 
orne  him  lovingly 
with  an  attentiv(- 
ion;  through  the 
■lit. 

■  ind    increases    in 
'i<'.  l)iit   it  is  cver 
aiistible    richness, 
'>'    the   St.   John, 
'nis  to    shade    its 
ntry,  wherever  a 
ire  scattered  the 
^3    red  antl  gray 
'oiighs    of   elms, 
ind    ail    arc    the 
tartle  the  quiet. 
'  Hteal   along  hy 
hanks  curtained 

o  crops  in  one 
ually  bountiful 
t'ts,  and  draws 
ploughing  and 

agetown,    than 


■n,  no  matter 
ore,  rest   his 


Ih'vI.  on  the  warm  grasses,  and  indulge  in  hours  of  lotus-eating  amid  the  summer  scents 
an.l  murmurs.  On  the  other  side  is  the  mouth  of  the  (iemsec.  a  deep,  slow  stream, 
the  outlet  of  Cirand  Lake.  The  heavy-throated  dwellers  in  this  region  call  this  stream 
111'-  MMinsack."  Here  was  the  site  of  on<-  of  La  Tour's  trading-posts  and  a  strong  fort,  in 
lis  r(Mnoteness  secure  from  all  but  the  most  determined  onslaughts  of  the  New  V.n^- 
laiu!<;rH.  Hut  several  bitter  struggles  rageil  about  it  during  its  season  of  importance  as 
the  centre  whence  were  organizc^d  and  directed  tlu;  e.xp.^litions  of  the  Indians  against 
th(!  English  settlements  in  Maine,  (irand  Lake  is  more  than  thirty  miles  in  length. 
ami  lies  in  the  centre  of  the  New  Brunswick  coal  area.  There;  are  large  <leposits"  of 
lairly  good  coal  about  its  borders,  and  the  lake-beaches  are  interesting  to  th<.  geologist, 
affording  many  excellent  specimens  of  fo.ssil  ferns  and  calamites,  to  say  nothing  of 
i;isp(!r  and  carnelian. 

Ikyond  Gagetown,  early  in  the  afternoon,  we  enter  the  County  of  S.mbury,  which 
forn,..r!y  comprised  all  New  Brunswick,  but  is  now  the  smallest  of  the  counties,  though, 
l-'rhap.s.  the  garden  of  the  Province.  .Maugerville,  which  we  see  from  the  wharf 
through  a  thick  curtain  of  willows,  is  the  oldest  English  settlement  on  th.;  St.  John. 
It  was  fonn.led  by  a  mmiber  of  immigrants  from  .Massachusetts  in  ,766,  who  were 
joined  a  f.;w  years  later  by  Loyalist  refugees.  These  were  men  quiet  but  indomitable. 
They  Huff,,.nHl  grievously  for  the  f.rst  few  years,  and  wc;re  .several  times  in  danger 
of  cxtormination  by  the  Indians,  h'or  protection  against  the  fort  on  the  Gemsec 
which  they  perpetually  dreaded,  they  built  a  fort  at  the  Oromocto  mouth,  opposite 
th.Mr  settlement,  where  now  their  descendants  build  wood-boats  and  river  schooners, 
(irndually  they  compelled  success,  and  their  children  in  these  days,  as  a  rule,  display 
like  characteristics. 

We-  make  a  long  stop  at  the  Maugerville  wharf,  taking  aboard  potatoes,  a  few 
lUHhiiing  sheep,  and  a  yoke  of  stubborn  o.xen  for  the  I-Vedericton  market  The 
shores  above  and  below  the  wharf  a  e  edged  with  mightj^  willows,  planted  not  for 
e(f..Cl,  but  for  the  protection  afforded  by  their  roots  against  the  current,  which  would 
fat  the  soft  bank  rapidly.  At  points  particularly  exposed  there  is  built  a  -^uardin.. 
wall  of  cedar  piles.  Over  all  this  region  the  St.  fohn  e.xerts  its  sov.-reignty  with 
.nost  ,Mup,al,l,ed  vigour.  Her,;  the  spring  freshets  reign  supreme,  and  for  weeks  at 
a  ti.u..  the  farmers  may  be  compelhul  to  go  from  house  to  barn,  from  barn  to  shed 
ni  row-boats  or  small,  light  scows.  To  school  go  teachers  an.l  children,  not  in  car- 
nag.;s.  hut  m  skiffs,  taking  many  a  short  cut  across  the  drowned  meadows.  When 
tH''  family  would  go  to  church  the  boat  is  brought  around  to  the  front  door;  .some- 
tnmis    It    IS    kept    tied    there.      .And    the    adventurous    small    Maugervillian.    explore     in 

wanh-tubs    the    extremest  recesses    nf     f!,f.   i,.,„i  \      (^e  ■     ■ 

"•'^^^^^    "'     '^"c   back    yard.     Of  course    it    is    not    always    so 

l)acl  ns   this;    but    sometimes    it    i; 


It  is  nearly  four  o'clock 


irse. 


wlu;p  we  catch   si<rht  of 


volumes  of  white  smoke  against  a 


33 


Tf/H   /.ASTHRNMOST  RnH;E 


:• 


f-LASIKKKOCKS,  TOWOUK   wv,,,,. 


I'ackq-roiind  of  dark, 
purplish -green      „p. 
lands,    and   are    told 
' t      means    "The 
^^^•■"■'^•"     A    mile    be- 
yonti,  across  a   lake- 
''■'<e  breadth  of  shin- 
'".^^    ^vater,    above    bil- 
'o\v  on  billow   of    leaf. 
age,     rise     a     few    tall 
spi'-es,    one     of    v^hich 
gleams  like  gold,  while 
tlic     (,thers     are    dark 
against    the  sky.      There, 
I'nder     its    cool     veil     of 
''''"■■^.      lies      Fredericton, 
t'le     little   city    adored    of    all 
Its    children. 


•.If 


•i 


OF    run   CONTINENT 


ckg:roiind  of  dark, 
rplish- green      „p- 
d-S    and   are    toJd 
m  cans    "  T  Ji  e 
''s-"     A    miJe    be- 
<l.  across  a   lake- 
breadth  of  shin- 
ater,    above    bil- 
1  billow   of    leaf. 
"'■'^e    a     few    tall 
one     of    which 
like  gold,  while 
liers     are    dark 
«•  •'^l^y.      There, 
cool     veil     of 
'      I'redericton, 
adored    of    ail 


')'S 


Chequers   thy   streets,    anil    thy   close   elms   assume 

Koiiml  roof  and  spire  the  seiiihl.ince  of  green   hillows; 

Yet   now   thy   glory    is   the   yellow    willows— 
The   yellow    willows   full    of  hees    .ind    hloom. 

Under   their    mealy    i)lossoms    lilack-liirds   meet, 

And    robins    pipe    amid    the   cedars   nigher ; 
Through    the   still    elms    I    hear   the    ferry's    heat; 

The   swallows    chirp   aliout   the    towering   spire  ; 
The   whole   air    pulses    with    its    weight   of  sweet, 

Yet   not   quite    satisliud    is   my   desire. 

Within  a  year  of    the  clt^vation   of    New    Brunswick    into    a    separate     i'rovincc,   the 
(lovernor,   Sir  Thomas   Carlcton,    removed   tlie    seat    of    oovernment    to    what    was    then 
known  as  St.    Ann's   l^oint,  a  spacious,   sweeping  curve  of    intervale    ground,    isolated   l)y 
a  line  of    highlands    jutting  upon   the  river   aljove    and    below,      .\boiit    fonr    miles    long 
and  a  mile  in   breadth,   watered   by  small   brooks,   wooded    with    elms    of    fairest    propor- 
tion, clear  of    underbrush  as  a   well-kept    park,   and    carpeted    waist-deep    with    luxurious 
grasses,   it    was    certainly    a    tempting    spot    upon    which    to    foimd  a  city.      Not  for  the 
loveliness  of  the  spot,  however,  was  it  chosen  to  hold  the  capital  of  the  infant  Province ; 
strategical  considerations  moved  the  soul  of  Sir  Thomas.     Of  a  peaceful  country  the  very 
peaceful  heart,   Fredericton  owed  its   birth,  and    for   long    its    existence,  to    the    military 
spirit  engendered  by  the  War    of    Independence.     St.  John  was    open    to    attacks   from 
hostile  New  England ;    and,  moreover,  it    had    speedily    become    obvious    that    its   spirit 
would  be  aggressively  commercial.     It  is  hard  to  say  which    of   these   was    in    the    eyes 
of   Sir  Thomas  the  greater  evil.      He  saw  that  St.   Ann's   Point  was  a  fair  spot,  easy  of 
settlement,  admirably    adapted    for  defence,  almost    inaccessible  by  land,  and    not   easily 
accessible  by  water   save  for  ships  of   light  draught.     Against  these,  also,  a  few  cannon 
on  the    heights    below   the  town,   at  Simonds'  Creek,   would  be    an    adequate    protection. 
From  the  military  point  of  view,  then,  Sir  Thomas  had  every  reason  to  be  satisfied  with 
Fredericton  ;    and  not   less  so  from   the  anti-commercial. 

I  he  httle  city,  that  has  stood  still  for  years  at  a  population  of  6,000,  is  wealthy 
and  looks  it.  but  is  troubled  with  an  ambition  to  rival  St.  John  and  to  become  a  great 
distributing  centre  for  the  agricultural  up-river  counties,  and  for  the  mining  and  fishing 
North  Shore.  She  has  ever  been,  and  is,  a  centre  of  the  lumber  trade  ;  but  for  the 
most  part  the  Levites  of  commerce  have  but  glanced  upon  her  and  gone  by  on  the  other 
side.     The  smoke  of  factories  obstinatelv  refuses  to  blacken  sk 


les  so 


fa 


ir  as  ners  ;   even 


a  railroad,   when    it  d 


raws  nit 


;oes  reverently  and    stavs    its    course    in    the    outskirts. 


Since  the  troops  have  been  withdrawn,  she  has  consoled  herself  for  the  commercial 
supremacy  of  St.  John  by  making  secure  her  political,  ecclesiastical,  and  intellectual 
throne.     She  has  the  departmental  and   parliamentary  buildings   and    the    courts    of    law, 


M 


r/f/i   KASTERNMo^ir  RIPGH 


W 


HOLING   UP  AND    PAUDLI.NG   DOWN, 


of    wliicli    St. 
John  not  lonjr 
since  strove  des- 
perately   to     de- 
prive    her;     but     the 
''ttle    city    holds    with 
smiling      tenacity      to 
those  good  things  she 
antagonist    was    worsted.     .Si,,    has    ,ko    ,1  ,     ,  '''""''      '""'^      ''^'^     '^'R 

pure     Gothic    architecture     in  '  C'       d         „  ^    -^^^:^-^^    -^t    perfect  specimen  J 

H-vincial    University,   and    the     Pr.iv    ^^    "T  ^'^^  "^    """'^^-      ^'^^    "^    ^'- 
-'1  iK-r  a  „„i...ity  town,   and    he/  ""^^^f  ^-^-      Call    her    a    cathedral  city, 

--  ^-  '^^'  ^vr.,ght  upon ;::  zz  T ;  •  '"^ '''-'' '-  ^'--  ^'^' 

•— .    '-    distinctive    charn,s    would    :,;;  ^Z:    ^[r^'    '^    '^'^    ^    ^'^'ve 

-     '"^.'!'P<<ir.       Her   hopes,    however,  are 


-m 


of    whicii    St. 
John  not  lonjr 
since  strove  des- 
perately   to     dc- 
'itr ;     but     the 
city    holds    with 
?      tenacity      to 
ffood  things  she 
and      her     big 
ect  specimen  of 
!^lie    has    the 
cathedral  city, 
'e    change    she 
"stle,    to    drive 
.    however,  are 


OF  run  coxtixf.nt  ^^ 

■    centred    in    the    InuMin.    ,.(    ,1,..    Mi,,,,,,;.,,;   v-,,,,.,    k,,,,^^^,^   ^^   ^,,^    ,,^,   „^^.   f^^^.,^  ^^^ 

I   populous    Nashwaak,   nver    ,h,.    iM.kl.nn,.    nf    th.     Prc.-inre.    and    .l.nvn    the    sonth-west 

^    M.ram.chi,  a  l,.„g-s..„l,.d    1„„    lar^Hv  nnd-.v.!,.,.-.!    s,.,:ti„n    of    .Iw    .-..untry.      With    this 

I    road  built,  and    th.  S,,   Jnl„,   |,,id,„d  ,,   „„.  „,.,„.,-  ,.nd  ..f    th.    city,    I^redericton    would 

probably  swu,,.  out    o|    ,|, ,di „|    ,;nd    hnsnl     in    .he    full    tide    of   advancement. 

It  ,s  poss.ble,  at  .]„.  sa„,e  .in,..,  -ha,  .he  ,n.uth  woul.l  t.,ke  pla«.  chielly  in  the 
suburbs  of  St.  Marys  and  .iih.,,,  ,.n  .h.  o,h,.r  side  of  .h.  river,  in  .hid,  .-.e  the 
aristocratic  quiet  of  iMv.lni.lou  proper  woul.l  not  be  disturbed,  Oth,.rwise  we  could 
nnagnie  one  of  her  .i.i.,.„s,  under  the  hoped-for  new  dispensation,  ill  at  ease  in  the 
unwonted  stir  and  din,  asserting,  in  response  to  manv  con.rratulations,  that  truly  the 
change    was   sweet,   but    n.urmurinK   afterward  with  Mr.   Matthew  Arnold- 

"  All  !   so    thr    (|iiiei    wa.s. 
Si)   w.is    llic    lu;sh!" 

At  present  the  brooding   p.wn   is    seldom    ruffled,    save    when    the    opening   of    the 
nverbnngs    in    swarms    of    wll-paid    and    ver  •    thirsty    lumbermen    from    thei;  winters 
,    s^Iusion   in    the    ren.o.e    h..ar,    of    ,he    woods,    or    when,  on    the    evening    of    a    certain 
Thursday  which   falls  toward   .h-   last  of    June,   the   city  sleeps   with    cuu/Cye    open    and 
.n    the    small    hours    starts    up    ,o    fuul    that    the    old    university  on    the    hill    is    in    full 
eruption,  that  the  night  is  brigh,   with  blading  tar-barrels,  and    musical    with    ubicp.itous 
tm    horns.      Then    the    ground    shakes    with    the    thunderous    report    of   a    htn-e    rusty 
cannon,  which,  was  presented   ...   U,e  students  some    years    ago  by    the    spirit    of    an    old 
French  General,   whom,   tradition    .says,  they    had    rudely  awakened  out  of  his  centuries- 
sleep.     Ihe  students'  glee  club  was  wont  to  meet  for  practice,  on  moonlit   nights,  in    a 
secret    part    of    the    grove  where    ,he   General    had    been    buried.      He  arose  and  bribed 
them  w.th  the  cannon;    and  thenceforth  the  club  met  no  more  in  that  place 

He  of  the  pencil,  with  wh.un  w  had  much  argument  on  the  subject,  decided  that 
the  best  v.ew  of  the  ci.y  was  that  from  the  lower  ferry  landing  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  nver.     V\  e  nu.y  say    Ihmv     ,hat    bredericton    can    boast  of   three  steam  ferries- 

upper,  middle,   and    lower iir>    «>m.,    ..r   .  i  •  i     r 

,  "'     "f   ^'''^'^'^    favours    the    idea    of   a    bridge  I      Let    us 

take  a  canoe  from  the  St.   Aiui'^    Unwln.r  f-l,,i    i      *  i  ■  ■         ,  . 

rinnn    Kowmg  Llub  boat-house,  and  examme  this  view  from 

the  other  s.de.     VVe    do    not    sua   much    of    the    city    except    its    steeples,  rising    out    of 
bdlows   of   elm-tops.      Heautifully    rounded  willows    line    most    of    the  water  front  •  white 
steamens.    red    tugs,     black     w.KHbboats,    and    schooners    fringe    the    wharves;    but    w. 
feel    a    httle    disappointed,      The     N.un.al     School    building,   though    its    back    is    to    us 
as  .s  the  case  w-ith   most  of    „,..  din,,  we  catch  sight   of.  looks    well.      But   we    are 

forcibly    attracted    bv    thr    C'iiv     11,11  „i,;.],        m  ,        .  ,.     , 

">     "•'"■  ^^'"*l'>    \\ith    a    supremelv    ridiculous    little    tower 
stuck  upon   its   rear,   to   matcii   ilu.    I,;.,     i     i    .  .       , 

J  .         ni.ucM  III,    jji^  clock-tower    upon    its    front,  looks    like    the    back 


\  € 


js 


W/i-  lU.STKRXMo.v/   N„H;n 


,""-    '"-  '■«  "'   '--. „,    ,,„.,  ^.,    ;  ''    '";"■■"'■'   -"■   '■->« ,„    House. 

■.;'""    '^   '■ '-^   -„,  ,.„„.,  ,„    ,„,,•  „  \.;;     "     "■■' "■•'■   « '-    P"l.r»   ,„ 

'"'■■""»"■■  "•■'" -» .!..■  r,.,„„ ;,,  ,„ ' ,  r  r" "'" ""  ''■•■""  ■"-  "■«>  ^.11 

'"•  '  ""'"■  '""■'<■■'  ■•<   -I-"  ...   .1,,.  ,,     „  r    "■"'■ '■   '"'•"  "-  ^.-...  ..nds 

""',•-7'  '""'■  ""■  -'   '.i"-l.-,  ,-l i,„   ,„,„    ;,  ""■    '■"""    •"    ""■    !■.«-   ,„„cc. 

■n«   -y.  .Ii.„.,„.,,rl,„    ,„.,,,    „„.    ^„„,„„„^  ■'"■■-..  "( ,„c   ,. „,. 

"■'--  "'   ricl,  ,,f,.„,  ,,,„„,  „,,,  ,_,  '     "I ..!»    ...    „„r    ri.|„,   „,    ,,,,„^   ^ 

"'"•    '™...  a   ...Vo  „.„e»    .„„  ,,„.,,  .„;";™:"'  --■■'■     ■^--  .l.^ee  „,,,  ,„ 
<-lo»o  at  l,an,l  tl„:  „,I,it,.  .,,,1,,,  „,  ^    ..  ,         ,"^''  """''  ''«'"  '''«nk 

;""-"»  i»i...  r„.,„  ,>.,,■„.,  „„,,„  „„  „  r,,"^;    '"  "'  ■".-■  '..--r,  o,  .„,  „„, 

-".-   "'   a,.,.    i„    ,0,,    ,,„,„„,    „,„^^,„   ,^      '  ^   ^•»'.»a...,   Vi„,.,.„„,   ,,„„  „„„ 
'"..... ..va,i„„.   .„.,    ,„    ,,   „,„,^,.^    „.  -^Gc.,„...e.   ,„   ,„   „,,    ,,^_,_^^   ^^^ 

abandant.      ll„t  tl„,   N,.,.   ,•      ,      ,  ''"-    ."arvolloasly    ,,reat    i„rf 

""> -y .i..roo „r  co,„,„„.  „,„„,:  ,77,;7  »;"77™. ..... .» „.„,.,  ,„„  ,„„„ 

'"=  "'""'"^  "-"  ■■'-"--".  ....,1   co,„,„,,i„i,„;  '  .  7'"'7-'  »""  ««■  «".onco  ca.„o  in 


■"•    attitude    of    ;,„,,, 

'    *^ '"■''».   "list.ikinj.    i, 

■V    I'arliiiMi.nt    |  Jous,., 

'J"'-"-'^    I'illars    „,,    th,. 

•"^""K'    "f   tho    most 

"I'l^^n  grounds  which 

"''>•      't    is   a   Uri^Ut 
''•■■'v<s  into  their  f„)| 
I"''"'-  -'nd   lu'inlock  ; 
'"  ""•  '^'■'•"-•r  winds 
''"'    '""■''••    terrace 
"•^  <l".>l<c'd  in  cle.-ar 
''"  ■'    shiiiinjir  russet 
^tr.ilnlu    ahead.  Ji(.s 
^lath  is  fresh  upon 
''  ''    f"<-    <l'e    most 
round    the   jr|eam- 
■•'.tiht,   or    where   a 
n-    three    miles   in 
as   to   be  almost 
lurch. 

>f   tile    Nasliwaak 
t^ry  of  this  spot. 
"•  "■'"-■  'lero   and 
li    further   secure 
'  'arge  and  well- 
^cw   Knglanders 
forewarned,  was 
'"'■■ty-six    of    his 
t'lt-    fort.       r|,e 
e   .stream,  on    a 

•^'iPrry  season, 
and    sweet   and  h 

firf;   from    the 
>''k    th(!    others 
upon    all    such 
'lence  came  in 
'"e    unpopular 


O/-    /■///:    CO.VT/X/u\"r  37 

in  the  invaders'  camp,  and  imder  cover  of  the  next  ni^jht  they  forsook  it  and  ried.  In 
^^  the  autumn  of  ,bqS  th.-  ;rarrison  was  remnv.d  to  Fort  La  Tour,  which  had  h<-en  relmili 
I  at  th..  mouth  of  the  St.  John,  and  after  \  illel.on's  .leath  in  ,700  the  Nashwaak  fort  uas 
.icmolished  Nothin^r  now  remains  to  remind  us  of  ,hos<-  .-.xciting  thouj,d,  uncomfori- 
al.le  times  save  some  «reen  mounds  wIut.-  ..nc-  stootl  Villel.on's  ramparts,  .,r  a  few 
.  rust-caten  cannon-balls  which  the  farmer  gathers  in  will,  his  potato-crop. 
.  To  Grand   1-alls.    ..„  miles   above    I'Vedericton.  one    may   ^ro    by    rail;    or    !,.•    may 

j  contmue  by  boat  to  \Voo.lst..ck,  and  from  that  point  take  up  his  land-travel.  The 
,  ch.ef  attractions  of  the  river  voyag,,-  between  bred.M-icton  and  \V.,o,lstock.  a  distanc.. 
of  SLxty  miles,  are  to  !,,.  found  in  the  b.-auty  of  the  I'okiok  Fails  which  are  passed 
m  route,  an.l  in  th.-  oddity  ..f  the  stean.er,  which  is  of  the  patt.Tn  calle.l  a  "  wh.-el- 
barrow-boat."  This  craft  has  heard  of  the  feats  of  western  vessels  of  her  class,  and 
claims  to  make  occasional  overland  voyages  after  heavy  rains. 

Woodsto-k.  a  picturesc]ue  little  town  amonu  hills  and  .roves  and  well-tilled  sf..p 
holds,  .s  a  dangerous  rival  to  I-Vedericton  for  the  up-river  trade,  on  account  ..f  her 
pos.t.on  and  the  enerjry  and  enterprise  of  her  citizens.  Thrice  i,as  she  been  almost 
destroyed  by  (ire.  yet  she  rises  ..uickly  fron,  her  ashes,  cheerful  and  busv  as  ever  She 
-s  very  hopeful  and  self-reliant,  has  saw-mills,  and  iron-mines.  and  so  nearly  approaches 
the  dignity  of   a  city  as  to  possess  a  suburb,  called   •'  Mardscrabble." 

Above  Woodstock  the  character  of  the  river  shores  chan-^es.  The  skirting  inter- 
vales disappear,  and  the  banks  are  lofty,  bold,  and  diversified.  The  sketch  which  our 
graphite-wieldin.  comrade  made  at  Newbury  Junction,  a  few  miles  up  from  Wood- 
stock, while  we  waited  for  the  train  to  take  us  to  Tobique  and  Grand  I-'alls  is 
characteristic  of  the  up-river  scenery  in  its  more  temperate  moods.  The  New  Rruns- 
w.ck  Railroad  traverses  the  hei,dns.  crossing  wild  and  profound  ravines  on  bridges  of 
sp.dery  build ;  again  it  rushes  out  upon  a  fertile  rolling  champaign  !au,hing  with 
prosperity;  and  anon  it  carries  us  back  into  tlie  firc-rava-^ed  wildernesses.  l!„t  everv- 
where  we  see  that  the  soil  is  strong,  an.l  the  country  capable  of  sustaining  a  .r.-at 
population.  '^       *' 

At  the  little  village  of  Andover.  some  twenty-four  mile,  below  Grand  l--alls,  we 
resolved  to  ascend  the  beautiful  Tobicpie  River,  partly  for  the  sake  of  its  scenery  but 
more.  It  must  be  confessed,  for  the  sake  of  its  trout-fishing.  We  had  little  .lifficulty 
.n  securing  three  trusty  Melicites,  with  their  still  more  trusty  canoes-a  can.,,,  and  an 
Indian  for  each  of  our  party.  Tiie  inhabitants  of  this  Tobi.iue  village  are  makin<. 
excellent  progress  in  civilization.  They  are  intelligent  an.l  religious,  own  many  horses 
and  cattle,  do  some  .,ood  farming,  an.l  show  n.,  si.ns  of  povertv.  Their  village  is 
fairly  dean,  th,-ir  houses  are  well  iniih  an.l  car..!  for.  Sewing-machines  proved  that 
even  hither  had  the  persuasive  travelling  agent  found  his  wav.  Beside  one  door  stood 
a    handsome    baby    carriage,    with    a    black-eyed,    red    little    Melicite    crowing      roudly 


/ 1 


J« 


rmi  J:.isr/,j,:,.uo^/  ,^,,^,^.^_^ 


I    If 


ON    nil-;    roHiijL'i. 


*'"""  ^    -Hi   w.   found    in    tlH.    ci,iers  cut..,..   ,   „.      ,        ,  ■ 

some    piles    of   sh.et-nu.sic    ;.n,l    -,    ,:.,,:..      ?.         ^      ''  "''"""'   '"■«""■   ''-ide  wh 


"'    •!    Violin.      Son 


'"'    "I    llit'sc    Ind 


ich    were 


'"''•"•^    "f'l    r„r    thcMnsclves 


•some    piles    of   sheet-ninsic    an 

»-  i-.-ank  s,,,,,,  „„„,  „.  ;    '      -  ■■ y,    ., „  „„,  ,,„,,^.,, 

"■'  "■"■■-  M'^'»-  H,. ,,  ,,„„  „„.;,;,:,;,'"  ,:■■'";■•  '^''■™"-  .i-o,«m,,,  „„ 

.u.c..w,-„eu  ,.,.,  .„,,.,,,^    „„„..  ;,_,-        ;  ■; ■ :,  ,. .,  ,.,„    ,„,,    ^^^^ 

''    "■•■'"    '•'"'■■    '"    ill---    .■lt.-rri„„„    „.||,,„    .,,    I,,,  , 

.V-rcen  water,  „f  ,|,,.    T„i,;„ ,.,  ,.    ,       .'  "'"   '"'""'  ""'"Hvfs  „/!.«, 


'"•'"'•    "'"''■    l»V  in    rid,    »n,r.,.,,     „,,„    „, 


anil 


"pon  the 
HT    current    of 


OF   THE   CONTINF.NT 


30 


side  which  were 
f"i"  themselves 
onr  jruiiles,   b)- 

tlioroui^hly,  and 

"il'anions,  Tom 

I'ut    they    were 

i'«t'fii!    knowl- 

eness  wliidi  an 

'float   upon  the 
''cr    current    of 


the  St.   John.      We  leaned   hack  hixurioiisly  upon    hemlock  jjranches    heaped   in   the   bow 
of  each  canoe,  while  our  Meiicites,  erect  in  the  st(n-n,  prop-^llcd  us  a-ainsl   tJie  swift   tide 
with  K)ny,  surginyr  thrusts  of    their  white  spruce    poles.       In    half    an    hour    we    reached 
••  The   Narrows,"   where  the  straitened   river  hisses   alono-    for    n<arl>-    a    mile    throu<rh    a 
deep  n-orrre    marvellously    tortuous.      It    struck    us  as  a   miniature  of    the    sublime    cailon 
through  which  the  river  .St,   John   thunders  and    smokes    awa\-    from    its    mighty    plunge 
at  Grand   Falls.       It  took  us   two    hours    to    struggle    up    through    these    narrows.       The 
glistening  rrrecn  and   white  waters  curled   uialiciously  as   they  split  and   sheered   past  our 
obstinate    bows.       The    while    poles    trembled    and   tlickered   ■wider  the  strain,   and  great 
beads  of    sweat  rolled  down   the  guides'  dark   faces,       Here    and    there    we    clung  a   few 
I    moments  with  our  hands  to  some  projecting  cornice  of  rock,  .and  snatcheil    a    breathing 
space.     Only  once  did  we  find  a  side  eddy  large  enough   to  hold   our  canoes  for  a  little 
while  out  of  the  grasp  of  the  current.      Above  our  heads  towered   the  ragged  and  over- 
hanging cliffs,   unscalable,   with  an  occasional   dwarf    cedar  swinging  out    from  precarious 
foothold    in    some    high    crevice.       The    sombre  surface   of    the  shale  through  which  this 
chasm  has  been  cleft  is  traversed   by  irregular  seams  of  white  hmestone,  forming  a  deli- 
cate tracery  in  strong  contrast  with   the  rest  of  the  scene.     Above  the   Narrows  t"lie  river 
widens  abruptly,   the  current  becomes  almost  placid,   and   the  shores   turn   pastoral.       We 
camped  here   for  the  night,  and  pitched  our  tent    on  a    tiny  piece    of   clean    sward,  half 
surrounded  by  a  veritable  forest  of    tall   ferns.       No    such    ferns    as  these  for  luxuriance 
are  to  be  found  elsewhere    in    Canada.      We    cut  them  by  the  armful   for  onr  beds,   and 
our  dreams  that  night  were  pervaded   by  their  fragrance. 

Allowing  for  such  exceptions  as  shall   hereafter  be  noted,  the  banks  of  the  Tobique 
are   a    mixture    of    deep    intervale   and   fertile   upland,   all  admirably  adapted   to   the  sup- 
port   of    a    farming    population.       Wherever    the    shores    are    low     th<>     natural    growth 
consists  of    elm  and  water-ash  and   balsamic  poplar,   rising   from    a    <,uiet    sea    of    grasses 
and    flaunting    weeds.       In   such   regions  the  wild   iris  is  everywhere   in   possession" along 
the  water's  brim,  holding  purple  revel  with  the  multitude  of   azure  and    golden  dragon- 
Hies;    and  everywhere,   also,   the  broad,  gn:en   banners  of    the  fern.      Hut  where  the  bw. 
round    hills    <lraw    close    to    the    water  the    sh,n-es    .lisplaN     the    warm    olive  tints  <,f    fir- 
thickets,   mingled  with   th...  p.de  colour  of  birches  and    the  glaucous  hues  of  hackmatack. 
I^or    many    miles    of    its    coL.rs.:    the   river  runs    through   rd   sandstones,    ^ery  warm  and 
v.vid    in    tone.       We    pass.-d    long  ranges  of    bank    so    steep  that   most  of    the  soil    had 
slipped  away,  and  the  glowing   rc.l  surface  was  netted  over  with  a  deep-green   tanulc  of 
vmes.  accentuated  here  and    there    with    a    group    of   ce.lars.       The    splendour    of'%uch 
colouring  under  full   sunlight,   with   the    rosy   rellections    from  the   bottom   .,f    .h-  shallow 
nver  seemin.r  to  set  the  very  air  allush,  we  can  find  no  words    to  paint.     At    the    Red 


Rapids   the    river   chafes    d 


effect  is  produced  by  the  chill  white  of   the 


own    over  a  long  incline  of    this  sandstont 


and 


1  h 


ere  a  new 


waves  which  leap  up  again  .  the  great  red 


40 


THE  EASTERNMOST  RIDGE 


in 


boulders  in  the  clrinm.l       'vu  ■  , 

•-™h..,,.™m:;;:::i;::.::;;::;,:;--"'< ........r. 

"'  -':-r:::::;\;;:::;:  — til;;.  --  ■-  -7—  .^.^^.^ 

w--«  ,.aUK.,.d  a,  C.  „,„„„„  <„  ,™<„3°1,       '''""'  ""■"="''  ■"  "■«  "PP-   "a.crs.  „. 
»"•'    >-...T.       0,-,.,,„i„,,   „„    „i,,       ';.';;  •  '  ■'"7  "■;  -«"■"-'  "-  »-ll  .1*.  ca,.. 

^«p  o,„.  ,.,„,,.,„  .„,;,„„,  s„„„:!„,:  ;.;:;:  r '™;'"'  -"  -= "-""  - 

»'"l>     ""•=    approval     „p„„     „„.    Ii,„,.     ,ni„:  "    '    "»"'""■«=    SamI 

''=«™.i  n.:H,  u,a.  ..„„,  .„„  ,„  ,„,.  „„ -:, ::- ;t7  '-;;'-";■  --^  ...... 

'.™.ioct  .an.  «„,„,„,  ,■„  „..  :„a„o.;     ,,,  r,;; ""'»"' » -'■  '^^-  »i-'. 

»ho„ld    arrive.       V„,.a,i„,    o„    ,„„»   carelessly     I  ,      """   "'"™"'"'   ^•=-°" 

«ave    an    occasional    li.,|„    ,,,„„,-     „r  "°  ""'■'   '°    """<'-■   ""   ~'"Plain 

encan,pc.,,    l.o.cver  cam.    ,1  "    °™^*"™''y    ''"    "■e    »n.,I,ine.      W,,e,, 

^.pera.c.  a.„ir,.  i:::  trr:::  ^^r '^  "t  "-  °'  "-^  -- 

«->>»  ."  c„,  a  -clp.lal.^.a,;!  ;;::,"  ':"""'  '•'  "'•■*  °-  -'"»  in.0  ,„c 
,-r„™,  U,cir  .,„.,c,,  n'po,,  L.a'rI.nnJ,  '■::,;/;  """  '"=  ^^^  "=  -^"=^  ..• 
<""   .he  Pic,„rcs,.,e„ess  o,   ,„c  can.p.     "„    !  ;    'T"  ,'-'""™''-  ""    ■"'»   *P"*    ' 

:-'.   .i.e  «..,cr  c„„  po,,.„,  ,„„  .„,.;,„   ,,..,     ,;■;      ;      7;'-;™°"    P*    'o^^^^^   a.   one 

:;  -'"'""   7"    '  "-  -"-  an.  ...e  fire  i!  r;;.'  ."  „  c  „ I:"^'"'      "  '    '""'""' 

"     -r   ,1,0,1   Jav  fr,„„    An.lovcr   we   reached    ,l,e    •.  Phscer  CIW   -      , 
more  ,l,an  sorpasscl  „„r  e.pcc,a,i„„,     Tl,e  river  a,  ,.•  ''     "''"'^    '"'"'' 

is  lo>v.  semi.,ro,,ical  in   ,|„,  |„v„ri,nce     ,    V  '"""   "    "''""'"■     "■"=   •'I'""' 

""-  ■— « -« -'::::  rn::;:,:!;:'";;"'*' '-  "■=  •""" '-'  -» 

and  the  whole   n.ck-faco  is  -x  |„v,.|v  11      r  r  '        '""'  ''"'''  ^'"'''^'^  i'Uricatelv. 

"-■  "■'  '■'.^•.<  cr .OS  i::,  „':;,:; :,::';:  --;,  -;'"■  -*• "™-  »- 

">■  '•■•■"■'■"*  as  a  ,„p.,lressi„,  f,.  ,„eir  .rastj  T      , "  "  ""'  """  "''  "  »"'>■ 

'■■«"    "™  ""■'•^•'   ""•. -i  ...ore   a    n.ass' „  ,„,I°    '7"'^"™'"""°""'  '"= '-^ 

»n,o    l.roaJ   pa.ol.os    „f   vcd,    don,   a-ains,    ,l,o  1     "'"'"    ""''    "'■'''«•    "'■=- 

»a»  a  .lrap,.rv  „f   pale    lvc„p„di„,„;  „  T,  ■  7  ''  ""■'""■     """  »"''  """•=■  "Iso. 

veil  of  „ ,:,„   „.7„,  '"""•'"""^'  -  "•"'  '"■'=-  ->'  l'-..l..loos  Moo.,.o„s.  or  ,  ,„verv 


OF    Tin-:   CONTINEMT 


4t 


2    in    length,  and    to 

foot.     We  stopped 

ichino;    the    head    of 

■asured,  slow  thrusts 
th  a  yentle,  pulsino 
It-'  upper    waters,   or 
!ic  small   i':sh,  eager 
'    all    we  needed  to 
I'Xf^rtion,  we    gazed 
tcads,    and    quaint, 
for   the    most   part 
a    raft    laden    with 

convenient   season 
make    us   complain 

sunshine.       When 
lizens  of  the  wild. 

up    his  wet  socks 
-if  copiously  with 

he  importanc  ■  of 
-'  sallies  into  the 
e  are  enabled  to 
on  this  depends 
e  forked  at  one 
It  is    fortified 

whose    beauty 
ovv.     One   shore 
)ther   hand    rises 
isted  intricately, 
fis,   browns,  and 
h1  bear  it  av\a\- 
lour  of  the  roc  k 
1    violet,    when- 
and  there,  also, 
lis.  or  a  silvery 

ing    as    we    de- 


sired. But  still  better  was  the  sport  which  is  brought  to  mind  by  the  recollection  of 
"  Blue  Mountain."  All  along  under  the  fish-fence  of"  stakes  and  brush-wood  extending 
to    mid-stream,   what    swarms  of    trout    lay   in    ambush,   anil    how    hungrily    they    rose  to 

the  lly  !  Splendid  fel- 
lows, too,  and  full  of 
phi}'.  As  for  the  moun- 
tain, a  geological  report 
which  is  at  hand,  assures 
us  that  its  height  is  two 
thousant!  one  hundred 
feet,  and  that  its  summits 
are  visitetl  by  terrific 
thunderstorms. 

The  next  day  Bald 
Mountain  came  in  view, 
a  round,  naked  peak 
thrust  up  from  the  bosom 
of  an  impassable  cedar- 
swamp.  Upon  the  soli- 
tary arm  of  a  dead, 
gray  pine-tree  on  the  shore  perched  a  white-headed  eagle,  which  thrust  out  its  neck 
with  a  gesture!  of  an.xious  inquiry,  and  yelped  at  us  as  we  passed.  Soon  we 
reached  the  Forks,  where  the  fishing  surpassed  itself.  We  remained  a  day,  and  the 
store  of  trout  which  rewarded  us  the  Indians  salted  down  in  little  crates  of  birch-bark 
for  the  homeward  trip. 

At  the  l-orks  the  right  branch,  or  Tobique  proper,  flowing  from  the  south,  is 
joined  by  the  Mamozekel  from  the  east,  and  the  Nictor,  or  Little  Tobique,  from  the 
north.  Up  this  stream,  the  wildest,  grandest,  and  most  beautiful  of  the  three,  we 
pushed  to  its  source  in  Little  Tobique  Lake.  This  lake  is  the  most  sombre  of  inland 
waters.  Its  depth  is  mysteriously  great,  so  that,  though  pure  as  crystal,  it  looks  black 
even  close  to  shore.  The  hills  stand  all  about  it,  and  Nictor  Mountain  dominates  it. 
The  winds  seemed  never  to  descend  to  tlu  level  of  its  bosom,  and  the  woods  that 
fringed  it  were  silent.  We  saw  no  birils  here  but  a  bittern,  plainly  out  of  her  reckon- 
ing, and  a  white-headetl  eagle  which  stood  guard  over  the  scene.  We  explored, 
sketched,  fished  ;  and,  mowd  by  a  spirit  of  defiance,  we  took  a  swim  in  the  icy 
waters,  and    shocked    t 


ST.    JOHN      l;l\l  K,     M  Al;     M  WHUKV      U  '  .\( ;  I  |(  ).N. 


ancient    forests    with    rollicking    songs.       But    soon    th 


e    wt'ird 


en  we  turned    and    (led 


solemnity  of  the  spot  overmastered   us.      We  became  «-rave.      Th 

back.     The    journey  down   was  very  swiftly  accomplished.      The    distance    of  a    hundred 

and  odd  miles  was  covered  in  a  day  and  a  half.     The    Indians  sat  and  paddled  gentlv. 


4a 


^^  ^^'isyv-/,x.uosT  a>//h;/: 


■"1^1    the    shores    sli„n<.,l    l,v  III-        •  • 

'-- -" .™":rL:!;T'"'^' ''-'"•■  -■-■—. 

""""■'■  "I"'"  -'^"..i»  i ,„-a„  „i,i,  ,1,,,    7  '!  '"■"""■''  '■'  '■  •"'■^y "-  «•-■■■" ".  .iH- 

"■"  """^-'''»  -  — 1  ;:':,:'; -"■■  "•• ■— : 

7"" '  "■'■'"  —",.,.■,„,„■,,.  „„.  ,,„;,,;""■ '"'•■»■  '■'— » ■..■( 

^-  -"'■'■  A  Ion,..,.  ,,„,  »„„.„  ,^^^  „r„,  ,    :"v,;r " '"'"  '""^"  "■"■"«"'  ■".. 

*-a.K.,t,  i,  ,1,,  |,,„,|    „,  "•""    r.,r   („,„„,    |.,||,, 

•'•••."  Ningara  „„.  ,„,,,„.  "I""'-    "'-      '"con.pa^u,.    !..,»   i„   ,„.g„,,„j^ 

t'ons  and  surroiindin.crs 
''■  tiK;  CWnd  I.-alls  are 
'^"(-'i    that    th( 


•I     'iiinilar 
"'feet.      A 


■)■    produce 
overwheJmino 


river  neari 


\-  a 


quarter  of  a  mil 


(-'  in  w  id  til 


"•■"'"v.'s    to    three     hun- 
f"t'<-t,    and     tai- 


d 


tire.i 


(■s   a 


l"'n'-"'li(:(ilar    pi 


inu 


•  ■li'h 


ty  feet 


into  a  chas 


In 


side 


111, 


loom     and 


'■••'^^'".^^<)f  uliich  the 
at  N 


'■()r;re 


'■'i.^^ira  seem- 


T\ 


joyoi);. 


'i<:   vilhi 


o(    ( 


■  rand 


■'"■s  IS  an 


irrcMidar  scat- 


lerrni. 


)f   -vh 


itc  cotta 


-li/es 


upon     th( 
'ii,L;h  plat 


■summit    of 


ean. 


!• 


"oni  end 


"•  ''"'I  <l<>u-n    the    cent 


''""■<  a  street 


ambit 


ions 


named      Jj|.„.„| 


re 

;iy 


\\:iv. 


In 


triit 


'•    it    is  I, road 


lys,   there 


••nonn-h  to   b 


's  a  continual 


'^-  mistaken    for 


•'^IvantaK^e  in  the  nei-dib, 


nicin-  of    cool  I 


■i  meadow.     O 


ver   it. 


ighbourhood  of  the  1, 


freezes.      The  cit 
tti<;   Post  Office 


izens 


even  in  the   hottest 


may  be  studied  to  b 
o--  in  the  sliadow  of  the  h 


iCSt 


uge 


(;/•"   THE   COXTJNHNT 


43 


"'•<■  ■'^iin   siioiu;  hotly. 
"•')■   I'e    stHMi    in    th,. 
When    u-,.    c;unc    to 
'"'ici-e  was  a  brief 
''     ""■     Iliad,    white 
"liich   tlirontred   the 
^    at    the    Narrows, 
'''''""i>l,^■  across  the 
'  iiat    evening   we 
alls. 

L'^1    in    these  jjages 

of    many    waters. 

'flit    as    to    ignore 

<-ss   in    magnitude 


^   I'le    hottest 

'died  to  best 

of  tlu;  huge 


■-Si 


white  pillars  which  adorn  the  front  of  the  hotel.  Those  pillars  are  Doric  in  their 
massive  simplicity;  and  the  whole  stnicture  causes  one-  to  fancy  that  a  Cireek  temple 
has  captured  a  modern  white  washed  barn  and  has  punidly  stuck  i.  on  behind.  In 
-pilct  of  tin  paucity  of  citizens,  tlie  :,treets  have  an  air  of  life,  the  jjigs  being  numerous 
ami  alv.ays  engaged  in  some  work  of  excavation,  while  the  geese  are  as  clamorous  as 
hawkers. 

It  was  a  perfect  niL;ht  when  we  arrived.  The  summer  moon  was  at  the  full,  low 
down  in  the  sky,  so  we  went  strai^L;lu\\ay  out  upon  the  suspension-bridge  which  spans 
the  gorge  a  few  stone-throws  below  the  falls.  The  falls  are  nowhere  visible  till  you 
meet  them  face  to  face,  but  their  tremendous  trampling  hatl  filled  our  ears  ever  since 
leaving  the  hotel.  From  the  centre  A  the  bridge,  which  trembled  in  the  thunder  ami 
was  drenched  continually  with  spray-drift,  we  looked  straight  into  the  face  of  the  cata- 
ract, through  the  vagueness  of  the  moonlight  and  the  mist.  (3n  the  one  side  leaned 
over  the  great  crags,  black  as  ebony,  with  their  serrated  crest  of  (ir-tops  etching  the 
broad  moon,  which  had  not  yet  risen  cpiite  clear  of  them.  On  the  other  hand  the 
higher  portions  of  the  rock,  being  wet,  shone  like  silver  in  the  light.  To  the  white 
chaos  beneath  us  no  moon-ray  liltered  down,  and  we  could  mark  there  nothing  definite. 
As    we    watched    the    cataract    in    silence    the    moon    rose  higher,   and  suddenly  athwart 

the  swaying  curtains  of 
the  mist  came  out  the 
weird  opalescent  arch 
of  a  lunar  rainbow, 
which  kept  dissolving 
and  rebuilding  before 
our  eyes.  Not  till  it 
had  melted  finally  did 
we  go  back  to  the  hotel. 
We  took  days  to  ex- 
amine the  falls  and 
explore  the  grim  won- 
ders (jf  the  gorge.  The 
longer  we  stayed  th(; 
stronger  grew  the  spell 
of  the  place.  At  the 
base  of  the  cataract  is 
thrust  up  a  cone  of  rock 
some  forty  or  fifty  feet 
in  height,  which  the  foam  alternately  buries  and  leaves  bare.  From  the  foot  of  the 
desccnr  the  river  does  not,  as  at  Niagara,  Jloio  away.      It  does    not    even    rush    or   dart 


INDIANS     .MAKI.NC;     TOKCIIES. 


-^1 


•■■» 


44 


THH  liASTERNMOST  RIDUE 


^. 


■■■» 


OF    THIi   COXTIXr.NT 


45 


y. 


LITTLE    TOBlgUK     LAKE. 


a; 

o 


tMl*'-A 


away,  but  it  is  belched  and  volleyed  off  with  an  explosive  force  so  terrific  that  masses 
"I  water,  tons-weight,  are  hurled  boilinjr  into  the  air,  where  they  burst  asunder  vehe- 
inctnly,  white  to  the  heart.  Great  waves  leap  unexpectedly  far  up  against  the  walls  of 
tht!  chasm.  At  times  the  river  heaps  itself  up  on  one  side,  giving  a  brief  glimpse  of 
iiakod  rock  down  to  the  very  bed  of  the  gigantic  trough.  This  ungovernable  bursting  of 
th(!  waters  continues  through  almost  the  whole  extent  of  the  gorge.  A  side  ravine  close 
beside  the  fall,  a  sort  of  vast  wedge-shaped  niche,  is  piled  full  of  hundreds  of  thousands 
of  logs,  jammed  inextricably  during  the  Spring  freshets.  At  half-freshet,  when  the  cone  is 
♦Mllirely  hidden,  we  have  seen  mighty  pine  timbers  lunge  over  the  brink,  vanish  instantly, 
;iiul  then  be  shot  their  full  length  into  the  air,  perhaps  fifty  yards  away  from  the 
liill.  Somciim^'s  a  log  is  raised  half  its  length  above  the  surface  and  held  there  in 
a  fitningc  fashion,  so  that  it  goes  off  down  the  torrent  on  its  end,  spinning  like  a  top. 
Throughout  the  gorge  occur  several  minor  falls,  which  disappear  when  the  river 
is  high.  Except  during  freshet,  most  of  the  gorge  is  accessible  to  good  climbers. 
At  one  point  an  elaborate  stairway  has  been  built  to  the  water's  vA^gn.  Here,  in 
the  opposite  cliffs,  there  is  a  recess  which  is  occupied  by  "the  Coffee  Mill." 
This  is  a  whirlpool  about  one  hundred  feet  across,  kept  constantly  full  of  logs, 
blocI<H,  and  d,ibris.  The  water  is  invisible  under  its  burden,  which  sweeps  around  its 
circ!.;  imceasingly,  ever  striving  to  escape  at  the  outlet  and  ever  inexorably  sucked 
back,     Where  the  floor  of  the  gorge  is  exposed    the   strata  are    all  upon  edge,   crushed 


('' 


r/ii-:  /iAS7i-RXA,osT  R//H:n 


together  in  coils  an.l   f„i,|,      |,,,,    ar..  rh.  ..\VHis '■  ...    „ 

-lar  pits.   l,on.l  dean    into    ,1,,.    In-nt   of    ,1,      ,     ,'  ^    ""   ^"''^''  "'"'■'''   ''""I'  -^^^- 


a.™.  wit„.,„„.  ,  ,,„,.    „„„„^  ,„  ,„^^,_„    ^.^; ■■       ■ 


'•   '■'•"'■o'lilc.  tliivalcnin-   t„  crish  tn..,.,l, 


""    ■■'    '"'■'•■    '■'!   'Mi-Mi,  tin:  clilTs 
!■   '■••ill->    iiidok    llasi 


■^"I'I'oschI     .infa.homal,!,..    o„ur,stin..     ir.        i,  '•  ^^^         """'   ^'    ■'^"■"   '■'"^'^    ^"<' 

'<"--  .„i.h    ,.oa,.s    past    on  :.,  '''""   ^''^^    """     ^'^    ^^"^'"    --h    of    th. 

f-t  .n  h..i^ln.      Toua.l    on.    si.K:    of    this    vast    wail        1  J""''""'    '""    '""''■"' 

^^-.  sp,-ea.s  itsdf  in   a   noisd.ss  n.t.o,.  ^  l:;"   ''''''   '^    ^^^'^    ^«    ^-^-   ^^^^"s 


'■ -^'''Mil^e  a  (l„unu-.,nl  smoke, 
Along  .he  din  ,o  ,„,l.  .,„  ,,„„,,  ,„„  ,,„  ^,,,_,^  ^^^,^  „ 

It  was  hcrc,  if   tradition  licth  not    tint    th,.    In  r 

taken  in  ua.  '"^'""^    ""■''   ^"   '""•'    ^'^-n    their  captives 

As  mi-ht   be  expected,   (Irand    Tails   h-,.  1 
The    first    bridge    over    the    ,oro  ,    f  "   '"  ^"^"^  "^  '"-'>'  ^^  -^f'''   '-.edv. 

•■streanwlrivcrs-^havebeen'snched  ""\^'^^'^'-^''     ^—    "P""     it-       I.u„,bcrn,e„ :. 

■-*-.a  a.™- ...  .,.::;i:;:-:;i;r  ;r^::  ::::r  r-'''' °' 

uieieaitei.     One  trao-ic 
■-^torN-  is   a    story  also 
of   woman's    heroism. 
In     the     days    when 
the    Melicites  were  a 
gix-at  nation  their  im- 
placable enemies  were 
the     Moliawks.         A 
Moliawk     war    part\- 
launched     its    canoes 
upon   the  head-waters 
of    the    .St.  John,    in- 
tending   by   this   new 
route  to  surprise   the 
chief    village    of    the 
Melicites,  at  An  pak. 
Before     reaching    the 

•^      ".itcis.      .\s  they  drifted  silently  down 


>'AKIXr;     X,,\V     ,.OI.K     ,.OK     caxok. 


tly  tailed,  ,i,.,.p  eir- 
1^   the   cave,    whirl, 

t<),L;ctli,T  inoimiuly. 

'"    'Mem,  li,,.  clilTs 
•^   ^lill   l.lack    );ool 

lit''    wrath    of    the 
ro'-k.      I'roin    this 

l>i^^'    two    hmulred 

i-^    to    brwik,   I'alls 


VII    their  captives 

111  awful   tra^rcily. 

i.umbennen  - 
(ircadful  whirl  of 
tt^i'.     One  traf,M'c 

i^  a    story  also 
Oman's    heroism, 
lie     days    when 
tielicites  were  a 
nation   their  im- 
ilt'  enemies  were 
^lohawks.         A 
vk     war    party 
(-'tl     its    canoes 
lic'  head-waters 

•St.  John,    in- 
::    'jy   this  new 
o  surprise   the 
ill'^ire    of    the 
-'•■.,  at  All  pak. 

reachinjj  the 
e\-  captured  a 
;■  s(|uaw,  who 
silently  down 


OF  Till'.  coxrixr.xT  47 

i>y  nii^iit  she  was  |)ut  in  iht-  fo'-cmost  canoe,  and  ordered  to  take  tiieni  to  a  safe 
lani!ii:,Lj  in  the  rpjier  liasin. 
wlien;:"  they  would,  nc.\t  day. 
make  a  [)ortajfe  around  the 
cataract.  She  steered  tiu'in 
straij^lit  for  the  vorte.x.  When 
they  started  up  from  their 
lialf-sluml)er,  with  the  hideous 
menace  of  that  thunder  in 
their  ears,  it  was  too  late,-.  A 
few  moments  of  a;^fonizinLj 
effort  with  their  useless  pail- 
illes,  tlx'ii  they  and  their  cap- 
tive were  swept  into  the  Ljidf. 
Never  did  another  Mohawk 
invasion  vex  the  .Melicites ; 
but  the  latter  ha\(;  not  pre- 
served the  name  of  the  girl 
who    saved   them. 

From  (iranil  l'"alls  by  train 
to  the  mouth  of  Ciraml  River; 
and  hence,  with  our  guides 
and  canoes,  summoned  from 
Andovcr  to  meet  us,  we  set  out 
for  the  Restigouclu!  and  \orth 
Shore.  Poling  u|)  lirand  Riv- 
er, it  a[)peared  tame  after  the 

Tobique.  Into  Grand  River  (lows  the  W'aagansis,  a  meagre,  dirty  stream,  grown  thick 
with  alders,  through  which  we  pushed  our  way  with  difliculty.  Thence  we  made  -i 
portage  to  the  head  of  the  Waagan,  a  tributary  of  the  Restigouche.  We  were  now 
on  the  other  side  of  the  watershed,  about  to  commit  ourselves  to  the  streams  of 
the  Gulf  slope,   famous  for  their  salmon  and   trout. 

The  Waagan  is,  if  possible,  a  more  detestable  little  stream  than  the  Waagansis. 
The  canoes  had  to  be  pushed  and  dragged  through  the  ilense  growth  occupying  the 
river's  bed,  and  the  shores  were  almost  impenetrable  with  shrul).  The  onl\-  picturesque 
object  seen  was  a  bear,  which  evinced  no  regard  for  his  ;esthetic  importance,  but  made 
all  haste  to  vanish  from  the  landscape.  Hut  the  mosquitoes  surpasseil  themselves  in 
their  efforts  to  entertain  us  fitly.  At  last  we  rounded  a  fair  woodeil  i)oint,  and  slipped 
out,    in    ecstasy    upon    the    pale-green    waters    of    the     Restigouche,    •'the    Five-lingered 


STRiri'INO     OK     H,.\KKINC;     A     TKIili     I'OK      rORCHliS. 


•4^ 


48 


Tim   I-ASTI:RNMOST  R/,h;h 


CIM 


W' 


a! 
u 
> 


< 


03 

U 
O 
OS 

o 


<'V'^   7///f   CONTINENT  4^ 

Kiver,"as  its  name  is  sai.I  to  MJ^nify.  What  a  contrast  to  tin-  Waa^yan  !  As  w.;  heaclcl 
clown  tiie  lucid  ciiinMU  tiic  sky  now  scrmc.l  to  ^rr„w  Line  ami  tin-  brt;e/.o  to  soften.  A 
wood-duck  winded  past,  its  ^jor-rous  pluma-o  K'iowin-  in  tlir  s.u,.  Tiic-  mosquitoes  and 
the  j,rnats  vanished,  and  in  llwir  place  came  exquisite  pai.-l.iue  butterflies,  delicate  as  the 
l.etais  of  llax  blossoms,  hoverin^r  about  our  heads,  or  ali-htin-  on  prow  and  ,s,a.nwale.  Then 
Iron,  a  dead  branch  proje.tiuK  over  the  water  a  great  kinj^tisher  launched  himself,  and 
darted  away  down  stn^m  will,  nu.cking  laughter.  And  through  the  whole  down  trip 
we  never  lacked  the  conjpanionship  of  a  kingfisher.  Ihere  were  l.luejays,  too,  and 
sandpipers,  and  Canada-birds  whistling  far  and  near;  and  sometimes  the  hermit-thrush 
sounded  his  mellow  pip.;  um  we  passed  .i  secluded  thicket.  The  forests  were  every- 
where luxuriant;  the  waters  populous  with  f,sh  as  the  air  with  birds  and  butterflies. 
We  cast  our  mimic  (lies  till  we  grew  tired  of  it.  and  fed  upon  the  fat  of  the  land. 
Altogether,  the  Restigouch.'  w.,n  our  very  hearty  approbation,  though  in  the  upper 
portion  it  is  not  of  such  (live,-sili,..d  beauty  as  the  Tobique.  However,  in  the  possession 
of  a  mighty  tributary,  on.-  of  the  "live  fingers,"  the  titl<-  thereof  the  "  Quah-Tah-Wah- 
Am-Quah-Davic,"  it  easily  .listanc's  the  Tobique.  Luckily,  the  lumberman  has  been 
^^    here,  and  ,ias  abbreviated  ih„  name  to  "  Tom   Kedgwick." 

m  Here,  fish-wardenn  being  .carce.  in  the    interest!   of   art    and    science  we   took  upon 

f  ourselves  the  guise  of  poaclKTs.   and   w.-nt  spearing  salmon   by  torchlight. 

Where  the  paper-birclj  grew  large  and  clean   upon   the   river  shore,  we  called  a  halt. 
Rolls  of   bark    about  three  feet  in    length  were    stripped    from    the    larger  trees,  in    the 
.nanner  shown    in    the  sk-Uch.      With    a    dozen  of    such   rolls  we  were    content,   and  pro- 
ceeded  to  our  torch-making,       A  strip  of    bark  eight  or  ten    inches  in  width  was  folded 
once  down  the   middle.      |.'iv.,  «uch   folded   pieces  laced    tightly  together  with   touoh    and 
pliable    straps    of    the    inner    lurk  of    ..  young  cedar  constituted    one    torch,   capable    of 
iHu-n.ng    for    about    filt....n    ,„inut..s.      With    a    couple    of    do.en    torches    we  were    fully 
equipped,  as    only  one    cmoe  was    to    engage    in    the    forbidden    sport.      The   ninht  was 
windless,  according  to  desire,   bm   a   faint   mist  coiled   la.ily  on   the  placid  surface  of    the 
river.      1  he  hour  was  kit.;,   ,ind     a    gibbous,   weird,   pale  moon   peered   through    the    h.fty 
elms  and  poplars  on   the  hnvr  bank.     The  torch,  thrust  into    a    cleft    stick    and    placed 
erect  m  the  bow  of    the  c.-m.,.-.  llared  redly,  and  cast  off  a  thick  volume  of  lurid  smoke, 
•which  streamed  out  behin.l    m   as     noiselessly  we    slipped    through    the    water.     In    the 
bow.  spear  in  hand,  stoo.l  our  .hief  guide,  his  dark  face  gleaming  fiercely  in  the  sharp- 
cut  lights  and  sha.lows,  while  his  keen  gaze   searched    the    river-bottom.     On    one   side 
loomed  a  rocky  bank,  which  Hefmed  about  to  topple  over  upon  us      Through  the  fitful 
glare    and    the    distorting    nmoke.    the    trunks   of    solitary    pine    trees    and    of    ancient 
birches    that    had    fallen   pron..    up.m    the    brink  took    on    strange    menacing    shapes    of 
.^.gantic   stature.     White    decaying    stumps    and    half-charred  '  branches    leered    impishly 
through  the  darkness  of  the 


underbrush,  and  a  pair  of  owls  flapped  to  and  fro.  hooti 


nff 


50 


/■///:•   /■:.lSTJ:RX\/()sr  R/f)(;n 


;:r;!:;„„;r",;r;,":. "Vr"' '-•■'-"'-- a„ .,_,„ 

silcncL'    the  su-iltl,v  V.,..,.  I,-  ,  "  '^^      •^^''""  ^''^  lirc-atl.l.s 

^::::;::::;:;;;:.::.:;:r;::::::;;;;::::-i:;-^ ^.   -r 

our.vs       TI?      ,      ,  ;"''"'"•">■  "^    '^  ^l''''-"li'i   salmon   Hash,.,!   iK.fon 

2" :,j ::,'::: ■1''';;''™:; -""i-.-:.. ..,,„,„„ 

-»-^ '^^■....:-:::.';r  ■:::'::  :r,::t. ''""■  ^t"  "■" 

.<l:^iri;^J::::::;l::::'l:;^;"'•;"^'7 -' ■- 

""t-  of  stran..-,.   |.u,..inrr        Sh     1  I     ■  "     ""'   '"    ''    "''    '"•■^'''^'   '"    '^   " 

.i...  .w.:,.  .:;:r  ;:„,:■""■,:::,::;::"  ■ ■ '""™» •'-  -.-. 

■ ;v^' - '■•' ■..-'-■  ^;,;;::;:;:;:.;r::,,;::;-t-*  :- 

7'"''  ""• ' -'■  '■»•  ■'■'.•■'.■  '.»«i« -^  o„..„  „.,„,, ,,  ;,,„„ , ,..  „,   ,;   ."■■■'■ 

;""' ";:'''  ■"■•'  "t"  "■"''■'■ "'-  '< 'v  ».■„,. , .„,,,  „„  ,,„,,  „„..    j^'  - 

I.''   iiic   iMciKiti-       I  assin<4-  of  Arthur    : 
'■Aft 


to    tl 


T  man\    yi-a,s  tiic  ways  of  beasts  ami 


men 


icni,   till    at    last    h 


e    was    an<rr\-.   and  v 


.irrcw  bad,  and  Clotc  Sea 


ery    sorry ;    and    he 


iirp  talked 


Ml 


eould    endure    th 


em    n< 


1 


OF    TIfF.    COXT/XFNT 


ii 


t''i-,  darted  downwan 
Ljriintcd  witli  tlisjrii.st 
.>k'-iiii  llie  bruiuhlcs 
c  two-proiij^'od  sfjcai, 
'  ""  111''  luad,  an.i 
''''■^'     At    last,    after 

was  followed  |)y  .1 
dmon  llaslied  In^fon 
!<■  <ni.'l   -ri|)    of    the 

lik'lit  eraft  rock,  till 
nip  a  wiiitofisl)    als(, 

I'xcitemoiu,  and    th, 

'■    lent,    thoujrh    „,||. 

We  heap(  I  our 

til    our    feet    to    tlu 

Ih    of    these    shores. 

in    upon    our    oar-, 

lily   it   swelleti,   died 

I    "(•    heard  in   it   .1 

d  saw  them  sitting 

'    'liief  tjiiide    nuit- 

•'"      lie    said    th<\- 

(-■  in   these  rofjions. 

nv  livinir  iiad  ever 

liut,  with    that 

•"'<1    partinjr    the 

erness.        riien,  as 

were    told    quaint 

,l;  men  and  beasts 

•'n,i,aia,L;e.       In   his 

and    tleree  ;     hut 
and   it  shrank    to 
t-'ly ;    but  the  on< 
K-'    a    sorry  place. 
Itic  tradition.      It 

t(-'  Scaurp  tallscd 
endure    them    no 


■f 
.•J 


lon;,rer.  And  lie  came  down  to  tli<'  shores  of  the  Kreat  lake,  and  he  made  a  .i,'reai 
feast,  all  the  i)easis  camr  lo  it,  but  the  men  came  not  to  the  feast,  lor  they  hail 
becomi'  altoL;<'ther  bad,  and  flote  Scaurp  talked  li  the  beasts  very  heavily.  And 
when   the  fe.ist   was   over  he    ^ot    into  his    canoe,   ,ind    his    uncli\   ihe    (Ire, it    Turtle,   wilii 


SI'ICARINC.    SALMON     BY     NIGUI 


I  Ml      i;i;s'ri( .'  'I 


him,  and  went  away  over  the  t^riiat  lake  tow.ird  ihe  seitin.,'  sun;  and  all  the  beasts 
stood  by  the  water,  and  looked  after  them  until  the\-  could  see  them  no  more.  .\utl 
Clote  Scaurp  san-',  ,ui.l  the  (,r(;at  Turlle,  as  th<  n  went  away;  and  the  beasts  stood 
listening  to  tliem  till  they  could  hear  tlumi  no  more.  Then  a  -reat  silence  fell  upon 
them  all,  and  a  very  stran,i,rc  thin.;  came  to  pass,  md  tlu-  beasts,  who  imtil  now  had 
spoken  one  tongue,  were  no  more-  able  to  understand  e,!ch  other.  .\nd  lhe\'  fled  apart, 
each  his  own  way,  and  nevc-r  again  have  they  met  togctther  in  council.  And  Clottt 
Scaurp's  hunting-dogs  g.,  up  and  down  the  world  in  se.irch  of  him,  and  men  hear  them 
howling  after  him   in   the   night." 

The  deliciousness  of  that  salmon  soothed  our  uneasy  conscienc  The  remainder 
of  the  voyage  down,  though  lu.>curiou.s,  was  uueveuilul.  We  passed  the  Petapedia,  a 
tributary  from  the  north  which  forms  the  boundary  between  New  Brunswick  an.l 
Quebec;     then     the     Upsahiuitch,     from     the    south;    and    at     last,    having    entered    a 


5a 


THE  EAST/IRNMOST  NZ/x,/,; 


m  I' 


co.nury  of  ,rand    hills   and    windin,  valleys    far    witlulnuv,,  w.    reached    the    mouth  of 
the  sw.ft    Metapedia.   niy^h   to  where  the    Resti^rouche   n,...- ,  the  sea. 

The   junction  of  the   Metapedia  with    tl,e    Re.tiKuud.e    tal.es    place  in  a  vast  park- 
=  .ke  anM>Iutl,eat,-e,  set  wit),    magnificent  ..roves    and    d.ut.d    thick    with   clumps  of  ti,..- 


UN     IHK    H\V   I   IIAI  1(1^ 


!'\,    \ '.";■ :  '";■"  ""■  ""'■'■ ■  ■■■"■'■>■  "-I -  «i,n-,.,  „„-„„,„ .  „i,r 

1  '■  ■'  7''\""^   '^"^"•'■'"»  "'--  -'  »"-.  I'v  .. , ■™,„  „.,„■,,  u„. 

;    '"■'  "":'    '""'"  """"  '"■■    -^ >'•  "-    '''■-"« "■■    '"N i„.     S,:„„   ,,„,„   u„. 

.    ,u,,,™u  „„.  .,„,  »„, ,  ., ,,  ,„  , „„^     ,,,^^  ^  ^_;^,^^^^  . 

: :, "  '"  t : ":"""■'"" ' -  "■"'  - ' '^  -'  ---  ■■- 

""""'  '■"'""'■  "■'■  "»"■- "'  "■■''  '-■i'»i''"-.  ."I.N- I,.- 1.,„.  .„„.,„ ,.  w..  :.„  ,„„ 

'-  ■'■-:;;'■ '''-  "■°""--  -<  '-r-.  .™.i  u„.  „„. , ,,,i,.  ,,,„,„  ,„  .,„^  ,^,^^ 

,;■    ""°;^-    "'   "";"*'■'"" ■    "«    »"'-    -"■■'.•■»   »l-i„«   ,„    ,„.„-    , „.„c   in   ,he 

■""'.!"'"  :""":'"■'■'■■  •■""  '" »--■ -  ^-"h  «■.     on   „„.  ,,.  „ex, 

colonial   fo,-  CI,n,lK,m.   ,i»  f,„.l,i,|.|i„„   f„„„  ,„„k   |„„„  ,„  ^,„_  ^^.^^^^^   ^,  ^^ 

I  he  l,„l,.  ,„„,  .,(    Ua,l,„„,  I,   ,«,„„if„l,y  si,n,,„,l ,,„„,,  „,  „  „„„;„,„  ,^,„. 

ocUc,  „,„..„,.      „  ,.  ,,„u   ,    ,„„„  ,j„  ,„   ,„   ,„„,,, ^^^^^^^^,^  ^^^^^^  ^^^ 

III",     ■"■■';     '■""  ,  "■      '"■""■    '""    "    "■    ™'""    l"l»..T-nning 


Si 


OF   TlfE   CONriNENT 


d    the    mouth  of 

in  a  vast  park- 
cliiinps  of  \!\<gvx- 


:^t*' 


'"S;- 


'■■O, 


*3 


tliroiin;li    a    cliff 

i,L;ii    whicli    the 

K-'cn    from    the 

1    iloiihle,   and 

azure.      l-roni 

nt    Iieyontl    its 

\\  !■  saw,  too, 

more    remote 

our    feet    lay 

narble    in   the 

tile  side  next 

l)y    the   Inter- 

ipacioiis  land- 
across  which 
(bster-canning 
is   above    the 


-a 


i 


RFSTlr.OLCHI-;    K'.VKK, 
FROM    PKOSl'KCr    HILI,. 

river's  month.  As  for 
the  Iol)ster-canning,  the 
processes  are  interest- 
ing, but  the  surround- 
ing odours  are  not  sa- 
voury. The  lobsters 
were  for  the  most  jiart 
small,  such  callow  young- 
sters   as    the    fishermen 

would  once  have  .scorned.  At  the  present  rate  of  destruction,  the  industry  must  very 
soon  perish,  and  our  delicate  lobster  sala.ls  become  e.vtinct  as  the  dodo.  Hut  the 
other  lion  of  the  place,  the  NepisigLiit  I-'alls,  gave  us  tmmitigated  satisfaction.  The 
river  plunges  down  one  hundred  and  forty  feet,  by  four  mighty  leaps,  into  a  carton 
chiselled  out  of  the  solid  granite.  The  basin  at  the  foot  is  visited  by  salmon,  who 
here  take  grave  counsel  tog<:ther  concerning  this  bar  against  their  further  progress  up 
the  river.  Much  consideration  has  thus  f.-,r  availed  them  naught,  and  no\saln.on 
knows  the  longed-for  uppcM-  waters.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  liathurst,  however,  lob- 
sters and  waterfalls  are  not  the  sole  attractions.  There  are  the  '■  l.hn-Tre,- "  and  the 
"Nigadoo"  silver    mines.        Since    silver  ore,   very  rich  and   workable,   was  discovered   in 


k  ! 


54 


T///t    EASTHRMMOST  RIDGE 


me„t  were   oarly  „,„|  „!„„■„„,„    ,„„     ,        .  ''''>''     ""<=    "'tempts   at    settl.- 

with  the  .„„.„„„,  „::,;:,;^-;  ■'  ■'■^i"»«io„ ..  t,.  „.„.,„..«,„.„„ 

»'  «»  point:   „,„,    n„„,edi.,„,  .      f'T"  "''»'»>"'"'te»  »pan  the  t.i,,  «„„,„, 

"■e  ^.■..-  o. » «o,,H..„;::;:'  I ::;,  :t::,  ■^'7''  ■-  '-"-^-.  ^-^  o,,.. 

'"    i757  a  pe„il„,c.    visited    tl,..    „.„               '"f^""™""-    "'•"    M"-'   '"i""  Bcaubair. 

settlement,  and    sweot  it    n.if    ^c 

»"rv,v„rs  llcl  ,„  ,|,„    Kt,,ig„„el,c.  ,„    St    lol.V      ,                                """™"  ^'"-'  '=»■ 

and  ,„  M.„,„,„c„ol.,  .,„    ,|t.    r-.,  t      I                       l^la-l-now  IMnco  Kd.var.l  Island^ 

*en,se,ves  „ea.  „„.  „.,,.,  „,„,„„  „„   .,M",  !;  LTTT    ^^''"^  "'"'  """""=" 
I'atI,  it,  IJai,  .Ua  Vents,  >     "  ^"''  "''■  °»   "'•'   '''^st  name 

'''"'  ^-  ■■ i......-.i  possession,    z.. ,;;;::  i;"'',"-''-'""^  ""•'■° "■■*«"•■'-' 

-.,  J0in.,l  soon  af,o,,va„ls  ,,v  a  M.  ct  '  '  ""'  ""  "•"'"" 
prontaUe  trado  in  sa.nv.n  „,„n-,i  .  ^  "'"  "^"^  """"  ''""'''!»'  "  -°« 
K.^Intion  I,,,,,..  „,„  ,:,,:'^  '■■"''■  "T  '■'"  ■'■'■"-•'■  '""  ""•"  "-  '^--" 
M.cn,acs  tooN    sid,,   ...it,      „;,     <       ,    '"    """"      "'    "-    ■'^•-   ■'"""■    """-^   ■"> T„=         ^ 

»"-k<--.    ....■    vossol,    and    ain.os,    sncc7d ,  "        '"""'    ""    «'""=K™'- 

'"•"•■■ns    on    „„.   eve   of  7","'""'"'    '"    "...ni,n,-   l.cr,       „„„   a.ain    were    the 

A.  ..,e   „,„,>.os  of  7     '""7""      ■"""-  "'™'-  a  ccnain   M,   Cas.sanctte, 

-■'-"■■-..-:;:i  »r  ti::7,i:  ;::7r-;;i:-7-^'-^°o° 

«    U„u,das,„„.„,    „.itl,     saw    „*    ^^^    7  '"''"7"»'     ''''"•«  ■"='«  '■*-  Ncwcas.l. 


"U    ships.        Two    miles    furtli 


L'l-,    on 


the 


opposite 


OF   THE   CONTINENT 


55 


fever.  Fortunately. 
1  Ijy  the  capitalist  ; 
ernoon  has   become 

■oug-h  a  barren  and 
John.      About    it 
attempts   at    settle- 
French    met  with 
northwest  branch 
1  the  twin  streams 
'habited,  but    once 
ttery  commandin^r 
Pierre    Beaubair. 
istence.     The  {<i\y 
Fdward    Island^ 
^nts    now   swarm. 
1    the    Miramichi. 
■-  and  established 
s    th^    iirst  name 

s  from  England 
'  landed  on  the 
ition,  numberinj 
and  Mr.  David- 
n-cloped  a  most 
n  the  American 

•  trouble.       The 
lal    houses   and 

•  the)-  resolved 
ncil  an   Fnolish 

the  stratagem, 
igain  were  the 
\ented  by  the 
tte. 

perhaps    3,000 

^    season,    the 

Opposite  is  the 

low  Newcastle 

the    opposite 


.1  nre,  is  the  town  of  Chatham,  the  commercial  centre  of  the  Miramichi  district,  half 
hidden  by  a  forest  of  masts  ;  and,  perhaps  it  is  not  necessary  to  say,  here  also  are 
saw-mills.  The  river,  at  this  point,  more  than  twenty  miles  from  the  gulf,  is  nearly  a 
mile  wide,  and  in  depth  less  like  a  river  than  an  arm  of  the  sea.  The  ships  are  at 
the  wharves  in  places  twelve  deep.  They  are  anchored  in  the  channel.  They  are 
everywhere,  and  from  all  lands.     And  hither  and  thither  among  them  rush  the  tugs. 

Chatham,  though  its  population  does  not  exceed  5,000,  extends  a  mile  or  more 
along  the  river's  bank,  and,  from  the  water,  creates  an  impression  which  a  close 
acquaintance  will  not  quite  bear  out.  The  town  piles  up  picturesquely  behind  the 
spars  and  cordage  ;  some  white  steeples  give  emphasis  to  the  picture  ;  and  the  highest 
hill,  to  the  rear,  is  crowned  with  the  bald  but  impressive  masses  of  the  convent, 
I^ishop's  house,  hospital,  and  R.  C.  schools.  The  streets  are  narrov/  and  ill-cared  for 
■M\A  the  houses  not,  as  a  rule,  in  any  way  attractive.  But  a  change  may  come  with 
the  building  of  the  Miramichi  Valley  Railroad,  which  will  tend  to  break  the  supremacy 
of  the  ■  ■  ■  -er  kings,  widen  the  range  of  trade,  and,  above  all,  give  direct  access  to 
the  i*^  1    markets,   without    transhipment    at    St.  John,    for    the    vast   quantities    of 

fresh  fish  which  are  annually  exportinl  during  the  winter.  This  exportation  of  fish 
packed  in  ice  is  a  growing  industry.  I*"resh  Miramichi  smelts  are  to  be  met  with  even 
in  the  markets  of    Denver. 

From  Newcastle  a  hasty  trip  up  the  Northwest  Branch  took  us  into  the  heart  of 
the  salmon  country,  amid  sternly  beautiful  scenes.  The  river  breaks  over  numerous 
low,  shelving  falls,  below  which  halt  the  salmon  on  their  way  up  stream,  On  this  trip 
trout  were  ignored.  In  one  famous  pool,  with  a  "Jock  Scott"  fly,  which  took  when 
all  others  failed,  we  killed  two  splendid  salmon.  Some  three  weeks  after  our  visit  to 
this  pool,  a  veteran  salmon-fisher  of  this  Province,  killed  here,  with  a  medium  trout  rod, 
a  twenty-eight  pound  fish  ! 

Returning  to  Newcastle,  we  took  stage  for  Fredcricton,  with  the  object  of  travers- 
ing the  line  of  the  proposed  Valley  Railway.  The  post-road  leads  up  the  Southwest 
Branch,  through  good  farming  lands,  past  bright  little  villages,  with  their  inevitable 
saw-mills,  and  over  beautiful  tributary  streams.  Sometimes  we  saw  the  river,  fo-'  miles 
of  its  course,  black  with  a  million  feet  of  logs,  packed  in  booms,  extending  along  both 
shores,  leaving  only  a  narrow  way  between  for  the  passage  of  tugs  and  small  sailing 
craft.  At  Boiestown,  a  quaint,  still  village  of  one  stree  ,  the  loveliest  of  nooks  for 
lotus-eating,  we  stayed  the  night.  A  portion  of  Boiestown  bridge,  picturesque  but  not 
in  good  repair,  is  shown  in  the  sketch.  The  river,  up  which  we  look,  is  divided  and 
choked  with  wooded,  grassy  isleti-  innumerable,  whereon  the  tiger-lilies  lord  it  superbly 
over  the  meeker  weeds.  At  Boiestown  the  road  forsakes  the  Miramichi,  and  sfrikes 
across  an  elevated  table-land  for  the  head  of  the  Nashwaak  valley.  Here,  more  plainly 
than  ever,  we  trace  the  ravages  of   the   awful   conflagration  which    in    1825    swept    over 


II         n 


II      ^ 


56 


r^/£  EASTERXMOST  RJDGE 


rocei 


^    " 


J 


OF  run  coxt/nf.nt 


57 


T.    CHATHAM. 

li  'iasin,  from  the 
Bai-tlbooue,  and 
lie  hiLrhlands,  an 
'itl  square  miles, 
"an  has  covered 
It  dead,  ,<^hastly, 
sar.s   little    but   a 

to  the  .St.  John, 
■r  with   harvests, 
hards,   the    river 
'i.    lh(?    elms   so 
ces    so    melt    in 
d    -oes    hy    the 
'airness    of    the 
at   low  rottnfe, 
'^'^    <int    hither 
lie    T,n-.       l-he 
■d    iimIcs.     We 
l'<'ini   of    \ic\v, 

iial  once  more 
Ken  iiebecasis. 


jrt^ 


58 


7y//r  I^ASTEHNMOST  R/Dcn 


I 


■""I    I'i'l    its  JiminisheJ  ivators    f,„.o,v,  II    ^    |i„i„   ,  ,     , 

Nan,c.  „,  „„„.„„  „,„„^  „„  ,^^,,,_,,        „„'„':::";■;'    '"^  "'-«  ■»-    o,  S„sse,. 

■'-y  -  j„„,.,„. ea.     :;,:,'"';■ ';  """'^"''  '"*^"--'  "«i-<'-- 

"-k»   n,ul    ,n„c„i„..,„„„,  „,  ,„„  ■     *"■';"-";«  •••  -"way  cat.,,  a  place  of  car. 

•;<'  ^e„a„i„,. .  .„,, :, ,.  „;:r ; ,:  r  ;:;r7"--  °'  '"■■"»  -  co„.„ 

■I-  «a,io„  ,,c  ,„ul.  I„„,„l,  i„  a  very  Tnl     „    "         T     °''°'"-     ""  "'''^  '-  '<■"«« 
■•an.3.     Hotels  are  prin.uivc,  a„u\     „    "e  "  '         ""'"""  ""^"  "'°"""''  ■■"'-"- 

n..»o,  „„.,a,.,ac,or,     T„e  .r:  ,        e  Xerir"'  '":  ""'""'■  "°-"^^^'  »■"  ^Vc.d„„ 
»-.l.er    deeper   ,„i„  „,■„,    ,    ,„„,,,„„„  ,'7  "'  ''    """•    °"    "    'a-V  <lay.  a„d    in    dry 

■■■  Cairn  .„a.   M„„„o„  co,„d  .J  Id,':;  t'.Z'";:'    ''"""■     ''*'  "^  "^  "^  '-"' 
appearance,  is  g„i„g  ,„  ,,„,  „  ,^^,  '  '■    -  certainly  lively,  „„j  .„  „„ 

"!>■  and  shop,  and  factoric,.     The  ci.i„.„     ,  ^veryvhere    houses   are   goinj 

-«  -„,s  ,„  he  tolerahly  „    ^J     |  I  ''T  i:'"-"'  '"^   '"    ■"^•-'-».  and  th! 
'■lack  snroke,  rises  the  tall  ,„,„,  „r  ,  '^  """°''''  ""'  <"  "'«   ci,y.  spouth,,. 

r^»"  ■ » '.^»  'ace  in  ador:-.:  1:^^:1^"'  "'■'"■  ■'■=  '^■■"■'"'  «"- 

;:'*'-.-eeds,„,„n,da,hip,,po„,|,e's|,o: 

:; ":  """  ';  °:  "-  "-»"  »■-.,  are  ..ashed 
""!>  l>y  a  sea  of  coffee-colonred  „„.e,  and  the  river  is 
a   ">ca.,re    threa.l    „,   „„„Jesc„,„    „„;,,   ,,„,„,,  ' 


LOOK.NC;    LP  SOUTHWEST  MIRAM.CHI. 


ill 


-*W 


'^., 


"^ 

■i^^ 


OF   run   CONTINENT 


59 


ng  town    of   Sussex, 
trial  to  tlu;  memory. 
i,^ince,   Pctitcodiac— 
litre,  a  place  of  car- 
trains  ever  comin^r 
But  when  he  leaves 
^en  thousand  inhab- 
melike,  old  VVcIdon 
y  clay,  and    in    dry 
3ne  was  ever  heard 
y  lively,  and  to  all 
houses    are   goinjr 
liemselves,  and  the 
tli^'   city,  spoutinfr 
tlie  faithful  Monc- 


m 
1 

:i 


lull  half-mile  from  the  spot  where  the  ship  is  on  the  stocks.  but  he  knows  that  when 
lir  wants  it  the  water  will  be  there.  Twice  a  day  the  Petitcodiac  takes  its  rank 
.imong  j;real  riv<;rs.  After  the  wide,  rusty-hued  mud-llats  have  lain  vacant  during  the 
liin^;  hours  of  \.\\c  ebb,  their  gradual  slopes  gullied  here  and  there  by  headlong  rivu- 
li'lH,  there  is  a  distant,  muffled  roar  beyond  the  marshes  and  the  dykes.  Presently  a 
I'lw  white  bar  of  foam,  e.xtending  from  side  to  side  of  the  channel,  appears  around  the 
bend.  Almost  in  a  moment  the  channel  is  half-filled,  the  Hats  disappear,  the  flood  is 
pouring  into  the  creeks,  and  behold  a  mighty  river,  able  to  bear  fleets  upon  its  bosom. 
Monclon's  present  desire  is  for  docks,  which  she  will  probably  get.  Then,  having  set 
her  heart  upon  becoming  a  seaport  town,  in  spite  of  the  slight  inconstancy  of  the 
I'elilcodiac,  a  seaport  town   she  will  in  all  likelihood  be. 


li 

Hi 


6o 


THE  EASTERNMOST  RJDc. 


4 


M 


OF    rilF.    CONTINENT 


6i 


j^jORSE  adventurers,  storm-loving  Vikings,  ex- 
ilored  the  Atlantic  coast  of  Nova  Scotia 
from  Cape  North  to  Cape  Sahle  four  liundretl  years 
before  Columbus  turned  incpiiring  eyes  upon  the 
\\'(,-stern  Sea.  Kc'laudic  and  Norwegian  talcs  tell 
of  bootless  wantlering  far  from  home,  nameless 
lands,  —  lands  sunny  and  fertile,  bordering  upon 
waters  blest  with  perjjetual  calm, --but  very  far 
away.  All  honour  to  the  unremembered  ])i(Hi(;ers, 
strong  of  arm  and  stout  of  heart,  who,  (leeing 
from  a  victorious  tyrant,  sought  freedom  umler  the 
gloomy  skies  of  Iceland  and  on  the  lonely  waters  of 
the  ocean.  That  old  discover)  of  the  New  World 
survived  oidy  as  a  dream  ;  the  record  of  it  was 
lidden  away  amid  myths  and  romances.  Actual 
•European  settlement  was  made  in  Cape  Breton, 
near  Canso,  as  early  as  1541  ;  and  before  that  time 
the  fisheries  of  Canso  and  other  places  in  the  vi- 
cinity had  attracted  the  attention  of  the  French. 
One  old  mariner  is  spoken  of  who  had  made  forty- 
two  voyages  between  Canso  and  his  home  in  France, 
prior  to   1605. 


i 


6a 


1^  i. 


THE  EASTERNMOST  ridqe 


m 


and  found  \x  then  m?  «.,.   c,.,  i  ••      -n 

"'V  l»-l».'  ..  a„.  ns  „„„  n,,n.c„  bv,  ,      ^    ',"  ""'''  ""   '"""•        ''^^'-U-. 

•"  "-  ^-^'l" r  „„:  „-l;,  /i;"  "■     "'"  ""■  '""■ ->■■«  '-  ".-a.. 

Karon  ,1,,  |.,,ri  |,„,|  ,,„,,,, 

only  soo,I  rc,„l,i,„  f,,„„  ,,i,     ,„„  „,.,^  ;  ;"  .  '■•-'""■;  '■•  "I-'-  S.-.l.le  ,sl„„,,.  t„.  „„ 

vcri,aWc.    cas.i„,   ,„    ,,„, ,    „„.  ^^:^''   '-^  "'""•^  "-  '<■'■  ""  .!„.  .,,»„,.,,  ,„„,  , 

s«an,an  from  fa,„i,„..     To>v„rJs   ,l„,   cl„,c '," 'th'  s'"   """?'  "''"''  ""'"''  "  "'"'""'•■''"'■•I 
in   colonkatio,,  „.a,    ,„,,,„    ,„,    ^,,  '    '  '■^><-™'l>  <'-nlMry  .,   Krim  cxpcrimm, 

"-1.  ..-o  „„„dr«<,  c„„VK-,«  ,„.,„   ,,>„;:            *•   "'""    "'■"'    ''"■"    «■"    ■"  AnXTic, 
■o  fuini    his    |>r,.„„„.    ;,    „„,L     ,  ■    ,"'    "■■ •»"   ''"■  11"™.    I.N.  while  ,ryi„.. 

"•...rn    to    ,l,oi,.  „a,iv„   l„,u|    „,,„,.  „„  '  "         "   '"  --'"■a"'"!.  ST.aliJ,--.aK„  „„ou„l,   ,„ 

•'■•^  a..c™,..  .o  c„,„„:.,  sa*  1:,:,.,  ;,::'■';  "■"■■"""■"  -'■'  "■•»*" '-.  t,„„  ..„„.,, 

or  tllTO  „,ii,„  i„  „,ij,|,      .,                           "-  '"■"!   M'o.  IS  iwoiity-six  ,„il,,  |„„^,.  |      ,„,, 
'°"K.     T,,.  a,„„.s.    c„„s.a„.  :      ,:'3  "  ""■"-  ,"    -"  »--■  '''^^^^'   .-  L,..s 

lay  .l..ir  .,.,,,  a,„,  ,„,„„  „,,,,  ,  '■"'■     H-  ■"'■""''    °'  "«'    '""I   «a".". 

».^als.     Sal,l„   Is|„„.|  ,„„;„  ,,,,,.,'        "■       '  ■*"    ■•'    Kalhcrin.  p|,,cc  „t    vast  ,l„ck.  ,., 

arc  a.,„.  ,„,„  „„„,:,  „„ ' : :  ":::;"'r'™""  "■•"■  ■" "-"  -^  ■^'- "^  ■n..^-: 

A  Spanisi,    „„.    .,„    „,„     ;     ,  „       "l-        T"  "'   ""  '"■'"""  '"■-■•  ""   "-=  -<l' 
lighthouses.  fog-l,„„,»,    f,„.b,||,  ,„  ,  „,,       ■      ".    '"    """■■'■  ''"»'"•»  !<--  l...ar.Tc.„cii„,.    .,s 

'=ri„«a.  ,„o,„i,„,  ...o,:,:!! , ::;::"■';■;:  V"'-  t'""  "'■  -""  -"•™''"^'  -'- 

has  robbed  Sable  Island,  ,hi,   dr..-,rv  „,  T  ,         ""■'  "■'"  "'  "'"  f-v"'"".^". 

terrors.  ''"'">    ™"l»»'  "'    »'"■  l>"".i"ion.  of    „,orc    .l,a„  half    i,s 

When  De  Mon.s  and  Champlain  explored  ,h,.   M,„„,   .     ,- 
'».".<!    .ha.    i.    was    ,p„ke„    ,„    ,,,    ,„..    Indians    -.  ,  """"""'"■  '"    "^'-  "■'^>' 

abounded  in  what  .be   Indians    priced    n,„„   bi,.hK  ^  M^         '  "  ""'""    "'    "''■■""■■"     " 
the  waller  fur-bearin,-  animals.      We   „•!,„  b,.  ■■  '  ,""'°"''  ""''""•  l"'""''S«  and 

have  ample.  p™„fs  „,,  a,,,,,  ,  ,,,    ;         ^;  »•;-"-'  'he  Micn.ac  and  ,be  Malieee. 

.h,    eb.ef   ,h,n„s  of   ,he    ancien.  inonn.ains. 


-■»^.: 


OF   THE   CONTINENT 


63 


,'luhou.s«!  warned  hi,, 
i  vessels  with  a  hm, 
ncl  the  Squirrel,  s<  , 
■'its.  and  on  a  dark 
Ik'  waves,  Sir  Huni- 
"  'oils.  'CouraKe, 
'lii'f.v's  last  messa^r, 

fil'le  Island,  bti-^  th. 
the  desolate  spot,  ,1 
i<Tiy  a  shipwreckcil 
•'   .^rini  experiment 
'    '^L'nt    to  America 
'    i'l-i'cd    on    Sahl.' 
1,   l)iit  while  tryino 
icross  tlie  Atlantic 
nd  the  rage  of  an 
for  existence.      At 
-t-'a,L,r,;r  enotifrj,  to 

for.  Thus  ended 
iiiles  long,  by  two 
!<(-'■  thirteen  miles 
lis,  and  surround 
sea  fowl  gather, 
of  vast  flocks  of 
Shetland.  'IMK-re 
^    sf'nt    up  every 

on  the.se  santls. 
■•  Hvery  winter 
heart-rending  as 
!  preventing  suf- 
the  Government 
■c    than   half    its 


tlie  precious  things  of  \\\v  lasting  hilU,  and  the  precious  things  of  tiie  earth  and  the 
deep  that  c(uu;iietl>  lii'ueath,"  Champlain,  with  l)e  Monts,  explored  th(!  coast,  visiting 
the  harbors  all  round  to  Annapolis  Hasin.  The  liay  of  I'undy  was  named  Haie 
l''ran(;aise ;  a  naini-  wliiih  it  n-iaincd  tlil  the  I?ritish  took  permanent  possession  of  th«! 
coimtry. 

On  board  De  Monts'  nhip  was  an  active  and  intelligent  priest  from  Paris,  an  ardent 
student  of  nature.  This  i;n()d  prit!St,  Aubrey  by  name,  was  wont  to  land  with  tlie 
exploring  parties,  in  order  lo  take  note  of  the:  llora  and  fauna  of  llu;  country.  At  St. 
Mary's  Ikiy  he  landed,  ImiI  failed  to  return  lo  the  ship.  Days  and  nights  were  spent 
in  searching  for  him,  vvilluMil  surcess.  The  ex|)editi()n  was  partly  Catholic,  partly 
Protestant;  and  tlie  last  person  seen  witli  AuIjh'v  was  a  Protestant,  an  arcUmt  contro- 
versialist. I'or  a  lime  the  grim  suspicion  cre[)t  into  the  minds  of  Aubrey's  friends  that 
he  had  met  with  foid  pl.iy  at  the  hands  of  his  keini  antagonist;  but  after  seventeen 
days  he  was  foimd  on  the  shore,  very  weak  and  wasted,  having  subsisted  on  herbs  and 
berries. 

The  explorers  crept  along,  by  creek  and  cape  and  headland,  till  tliey  came  to  a 
marvellous  gap  between  two  hills,  offering  a  vista  into  the  bowels  of  the  land.  Enter- 
ing, they  fouuti  themselven  in  a  placid  harbour,  very  beautiful,  and  most  inviting  to 
men  who  were  weary  with  the  rough  buffeting  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  Poutrincourt 
breaks  out  into  sim[)|e  elu(|lience  :  "It  was  unto  us  a  thing  marvellous  to  see  the  fair 
distance  and  the  largencHH  of  it  (the  Hasin),  and  the  mountains  and  hills  that  environed 
it ;  and  I  wondereil  how  ho  fair  a  place  remained  desert,  being  all  filled  with  woods, 
.seeing  that  so  many  pine  away  in  this  world  who  coidd  make  good  of  this  land  if 
only  they  had  a  chic^f  goveriKU'  to  conduct  them  thither."  "  We  found  meadows,  among 
which  brooks  do  rini  without  number,  which  come  from  the  hills  and  mountains 
adjoining."  "There  is  in  the  passage  out  to  -a  a  brook  that  fallelh  from  the  high 
rocks  down,  and  in  f.dliiij^  dinperseth  itself  into  a  small  rain,  which  is  very  delightful 
in  summer." 

'1  his  is  our  first  aiithenlic  glimpse  of  what  is  now  and  long  has  been  "Annapolis 
Basin."  The  praise  lavished  on  its  loveliness  is  not  immerited.  Steamers  now  daily 
come  and  go  through  Digby  (liit,  the  narrow  and  picturesque  entrance.  The  l?asin 
itself  is  rimmed  with  hilln,  which,  in  the  stillnesss  of  the  morning  and  (^ven- 
ing  are  reHected  in  iN  bosom,  Hetwe.ii  the  hills  and  the  water's  edge  are 
ranges  of  white  cottagwK,  long  lines  of  orchards,  gardens,  cultivated  fields— [)roofs 
enough  of  the  presencf!  of  an   industrious  and  prosperous  population, 

Poutrincourt  obtained  a  grant  of  this  region  and  founded  the  town  of  Port  Royal 
on  the  north  side  of  the  river,  several  miles  above  the  present  town  of  "  Annapolis 
Royal."  For  a  time  the  jilije  colony  lived  right  merrily,  as  if  there  were  no  plagues, 
famines  or  wars  in  the  world.     'I'hcy  toiled  and  rested  when  it  suited  them  ;  they  formed 


n 
n 


«4 


Tiie  eAurERA-Moxr  ridgu 


|i  111 


i 


la,ti„„  friendship,,  will,  ,1,0  l,„„a„s;  ,|>,.v  ,.,„|„„.,l  ,l„. 

lis  Kood  as  c„„l,l  ,„  f„„„.|  in  ,,,„,,  „,.,, ,  '    "'■"■"  ''  "'        '»''"  »''"  --M    mnk.   ,,rc.„d 

^-"--™.-  -.,.  „„.,  d....,:;!;  ,':,,;:,':,;::::•--■''  "■•■^-■■"  '■> 

I'— ^     Tl„,.  had    a    „„„d    „„rc-  of    win.,    -.nd    „„.  ,  '"    ' "    "■•"" 

-pfi'  «i....in«  ,i«„s  „,  .,„„,.,„,,  .,„.  ;,„',"   '"'■; -  '-"■■  Ml.  .1,,. 

TT "'  "'■•  '■"-'  <"-'^'y  -re  ah ,  ■,,:,„;:; '■  ,'■:■"■  '■-"  -' 

half  .1,,.  v,.ni,„„  „„.,.  I„.„„„h,  i„      u-,s    ,,  >'  *■■""'  ''"■'■■  "■■»■  '"™'l« 

™.i.-  a  ,u.„.  ,.„,„;.  „, , ,:,  l;  , ,.  v'T  ":"■'■ '""  '■""""■'■"■■  --  -■■•'  - 

-""»-«'.  "'  wh,. ..,a,n.  i;,t,„  :/■"'':'    "  7-'""'  "'  '•" "  '"■•'■< 

'""-.I   all    ,h..    r,.„.     A,  din,„.r  ,hc   s  ,  "-'",■""'    ""''"'<  '"'  ""■  '<^'y.  a n,„. 

^1- er.  s,aff  and.  and  „  ,  ,       T"        l'  ''"''  '"'    '""  ""•  """    "'<'''■'    °" 

Happies,  win.,..  ,.eH,aps,  i„  a„  ,hes,,  co^.H.:."        '    "'""    "'   ''""   ""'"'  '"'•"-'" 

W  <•   cannot    follow   niinnt,.!,.   .1       r 

'<>  'lie  n..,r,.,   „f    ,h,.  „,.,„„,„    .„„„„  .      ,    "    '"'•-  '■'-■'"'-■'>«-■"•   "'  Ai'.Hii-..  of   i6„;.,,roa.l,. 

»l>l-e  , ,a,„.,-  „„,„,„,,„^       ■'     '    '■"■"  '"    -^-'1-      He    lei.    i,     „,„,  ,„  ,  „,.,^.^ 

In    I'>io   l'.).itriiic<>;,n,   niih  .|,,.   i.-;,,„.. 
«*      I -  a-v„„„,a„i,..l    h,   ,,.,„i     '•■""""""■   '■'■'""""'    '°    "'«   '!'■"  I-  l",...d  so 

-'  "'■"■<  M.™.« .-...„,  „„„  a  n  r;  "T'"i "'°"' ""°"  """■"•'  >"-  "■«  - 

J-l-«  C „.      O.i,,,    „„,„,;.,,.        ""•';"'  '"''  ""■  ••"'"  ">"'■ n  re„K.n,he. 

Mined  in  c„nse,.,.,..„:d;o„„d         ,  .       ,     """""■   '"'  "»"    "-    '•"'    ' -    "■  A.-adia 

-  -H«l-e  of    i,,..,;  an     ,J        :    "; T"  '"  '""'"  ■'■"■"  '"'■  ''"''  l«"-« 

■  »'  '■-   '<■:■'-       l.e  .,,on.s    1  "    ,      :  '::;■'  -"-■'' ■'■■■ ■■    l-.    a    .ran. 

^»".M    on.   I.e   .M„n.s.  and    .hen    „.   Ki  1  .  -a  ^d 'L  T,':"- ,    """ ^   ='-"-'"' 

excoption  of   |'n,-t    Royal.  '  "    "'^"   ''''"'*'    province,   with    the 

hvil  tiniL'.s   wcri'  ncir       In     r 

-"-  of    Virginia,  swein  'down  '    !'      irl"  '"""'  ^^^''"'  —--nod  by  the  Gov- 

CO.-KI  find  of  the  French  pioncvrs   '  H.  f  '    7  """'"    '""■°^"'    '""''>■  •"^''"-'■^^'  ^e 

view  with   nienco...,  son    of    Pouiwnl^nr  t ''^""'  'T'   ''"'''    '"  ''''    ''   ^"^'"^  -- 
'hem.      They    accuse.l    .ach    other      f        ,',       ""    '"  ■-^''  ''    '"■'"'"    "'""■'"■^^    '^^-''^veen 


4 

9 


""^^ 


OF  I  III-:  n\\ii\i:xr 


'"•■'•'I  its  inevitable 
toil  Id  make  bread 
rind  their  u^rain  hy 
'  to  utilizf!  water 
'Is  each  ;  hm  tlie 
"    I'iiit.      I'isli  and 

■  liu'ir  new  friends 
li'i  \\as  moved  to 
'  "f  fifteen  chief 
"'  'lay,  and  enter- 

■  "itli  napkin  on 
lie  quests  followed 
y  a  new  steward 
>r  the  next  feast. 
Koyal  Hasin— the 

)me  little  colony. 

'"I  to  remove  to 
liad  news  from 
of   1607,  .t^reatly 

iil"^  and   IK)  foes. 

now  for  a  wider 

pot  he  loved  so 
!■'«  u'as  tlx;  vet- 
\vt!!  remember 
dian  in  Acadia 
i.i,'^'^  and  {|iieens 
t  hail  a  <rrant 
e  Citiercheville 
--ince,   with    the 

J  by  the  Gov- 
^ay  of  Fundy, 
''  memorial  he 
stormy  inter- 
nin<r    between 

■  An    Indian 
faith    should 


o; 


:| 


I 


make  war  on  one  ar.uther.  Mow  often  has  that  difficulty  occun.  d  ,„  oth-r  ,„in.K  since 
.0.3!  Foutrincourt  abandoned  his  l„.|oved  scenes  forever,  keturnin,  .0  |..an,,.  he 
•I'-'l    '"    battle    in     ,6.5.        Ihe  two  ex|.,.diti<ms  of    Ar^all   from    Virginia   to  destru>    the 


ANN.MUI.IS    IKOM    IHK   OLD    lORT, 

l-rench  settlements   on    or  near  the   Bay 
ol    I'undy  were   the   tirsl  acts   of  a  series  of  trayic 
conllicts  between  Great  Britain  and  I'rance,  which 
knew   but  short   intermissions   until    the    final   triumph  of 
British  arms  upon  the   Plains  of  .Abraham 
Annapolis   Basin,  so  peaceful   now,   was    the    sc  ■       of    many  a    hard    tussle   between 
t   e    contending    races.     The    hills  echoin.  to  the   whistle  of  the  steam   engine,   the  rum- 
Mm-,   of    railway  trains,  or  the    s,.nal   guns    of   steamers,   often   echoed    the    thunder   of 
war      After  Arcjall's  destructive  swoop,  a  Scotch  colony  can,e.   but  failed.      The   French 
tned   a,a,n  with   fair  prospects  of    success,  but    an    Fnglish    fleet  visited    them    and  left 
nothm.    behunl    but    ashes.       It  is    a    sadly    n^onotonous    story    for    many  Ion.  years - 
sunshme  and  hope  and   then  sudden   hurricanes  of  war  " 

Mi-ourt  bequeathed  his    rights    in    Port    Royal  to  youn,  Charles   de    La  Tour,  a 

;nan     of  rent  u-l<al>le     sagacity,    courage,    and    enterprise,  ^he    most     noteworthy     figure 

'-■'■■   -n      1.   Acadian   period    of    Nova    Scotia.      For  a   tin.    he    lived  at    Port    .oval' 

n         en,   a  out    ,6.6,   he    ren.oved   to  a  convenient  port   near    Cape  Sable,   and   built    \ 

fort  there  wh.ch   !,e  held   for   1-rance.   and  which   he  named   Fort    i'ouis 

Charles   La    J  our  is  renn.nbered    for    his    chivalrous    loyalty  to  his  country-   in    the 
fa...  of  severe  temptation.      His  father  had  been  captured  by  Admiral   Kirke  and  taken 


Ci 


I  I  'I 


06 


^  iiE  IwlSTHRMMosT  NI/JUH 


•I''  ■•!  prisoiifM-  to  Knirland.     I,, 
■'    f''\v   months    h,.   was    ready 
'"   ,t(ivc    up   his    ,„vn    rountrv 
""'I     stTv,.     Ki„o     Ja„u:s.    t- 
Hliom  he  was  introduced  and 
"ilh   wliom    hf    hecanie    a   fa 
V'lirite,  and    niarnV.l   an    Kn- 
Klinh    lady:    an.l  hrino    madr 
.'    l'f.ron..t     of     Xova     Scotia, 
'"■   '•'•tiinu'd  to  .Ara.lia  in  th.- 
''^"■'■•■■-t    -f    l-;n-land,   promis- 
'"«•    tliat    his   son    also   would 
•I'  "iicf  submit  to  the  Knjrlisj, 
"■"""■        He     had    with    him 
'"<'    armed    \cssels,    and,    ac- 
•"mpanied     hy    his    wife,    ar- 
I'ived    at     Port    l.atour.        H,. 
K'ld    his    son    how    the    Kin^ 
"f    iMij^dand    had    honours    in 
^<"|-«'    for    him     if    he     would 
""')•    J^ive    uj)    the    Fori;    he 
'"axfd,  he    promised,    he    en- 
li'<Mted,    he    threatened;    hut 
•i"  in  vain.      He  even  attacked 
•'"It     Louis    with    what    force 
'"'  '■""'''   I'rino    to    hear  upon 
'•  ;   l>iit  the  attack  was  bravely 
''•■.""'^'■<1.       Th.'     fath.'r,     cha- 
Unned,  disappointed,  dreadin;; 
'I"'    I'linishment  of  treason  if 
'"■  '"11   into  tile  hands  of  the 
'''''"<''.     and      jishamed      and 
flffilid   lo    return   to    lui^-jand, 
llil'ilened   with    ids    .Scotch    co- 
"lIlMts  to    Port    Royal.      After 
.1  lime,  when  C'harh^s  {...Tour 

'•'•■•!"       it?       (luift 


possession     ol 


to 


live   near    Fort    L 


'Hiis.   in    Port    l.ati 


Aradia,   I 


ir.    but   neiilxr  | 


le   invited  his  fath 


wr 


er 


I'    nor  Ih'h  wife  was 


ever  allowed 


,n  % 


M 


OF   THE   CONTINENT 


67 


nnn-  to  Kiiirland.     I„ 
"iiths    he   was    rcadv 
ii|>   Ill's    (iwn    roiintr\ 
'■<'     Kinn     James,    t.. 
was  introduced  and 
m    lie    hccamt'    a  fa- 
nil    married    an    Hn- 
■  •■    and  i)ein,o    matle 
"f     •\'o\a     Scotia, 
■'I  t"  .Acadia  in  the 
f    I'-ii.L^land.   promis- 
liis   son    also   \v(>nld 
bniit  to  tilt;  En^riish 
If-     had    with    him 
I    vessels,    and.    ae- 
I'V    his    wife,    ar- 
'oi't    l-atoiir.       He 
'II    how    the    Kins^ 
1    had    honours    in 
liiii     i("     he     would 
tip    the    Fori:    h<; 
Iironiised,    he    en- 
threatened  ;    hut 
He  e\cn  attacked 
with    what    force 
n,!^   to    hear  upon 
ttack  was  bravely 
I'lie     father,     cha- 
I'ointed,  dreading 
■lit  of  treason  if 
he  hands  of  the 
ashamed     and 
nil   to    iMi.nland, 
I   his   .Scotch   CO- 
•t    Royal.      After 
^'hiirles  LuTour 
i'osscssion     of 
\ited   his   father 
IS  ever  allowed 


to  enter  the  Fort.  In  the  days  of  his  deep  poverty  and  disorrace,  Charles  Fa  Tour 
told  his  Fncrlish  wife  of  his  ^rief  on  her  accoimt  and  his  willingness  that  she  should 
reliirn  to  her  old  home  with  its  peace  and  comfort.  She  replied  that  she  had  not 
married  him  to  abandon  him  m  the  day  of  advt-rsity  that  whene'er  he  should  take 
iier  and  in  whatever  condition  they  were  placed,  her  object  would  be  to  lessen  his 
'j,nvA.       it   is  pleasant  to  learn   that  their  closing  years  were  peaceful  and   hapjiy. 

The  Scotch  colony  existed  in  Port  Roy.d  for  about  ten  \  ears.  Disease  made 
fearful  havoc  in  their  ranks;  and  llu-  Indians  did  the  est  of  the  deadly  work.  Two 
or  three  survivetl  and  joined  the  P'rench.  Phe  little  town  of  Port  Royal  was  taken 
and  retaken  over  and  over  again  by  contending  adventurers.-  P'renchmen  against 
Prenchmen.  or  New  Fnghuul  Puritans  against  the  I'rench.  in  1654  Cromwell  sent  a 
lleet  to  recover  Nova  Scotia  from  the  I'Vench,  and  Port  Royal  was  captured  but  not 
destroyed.  Charles  II.  restored  it  to  French  rule.  It  was  captured  in  1690  by  Sir 
William  Phipps,  who  came  suddenly  from  Boston  with  three  war  vessels  and  eight 
hvmdred  men.  The  defences  were  in  a  deplorable  condition.  Phe  fort  contained  eigh- 
teen cannon;  hut  there  were  only  eighty-six  soldiers,  and  no  defence  was  attempted. 
The  Governor  of  .\cailia.  .M.  Menneval,  though  present,  was  ill  with  gout.  Phe  people 
offered  no  aid  to  the  soldiers.  So  the  shrewd  old  Governor  made  the  best  terms  he 
could,  which  were  highly  honourable.  Phipps,  however,  found  prete.xts  for  breaking 
ihe  articles  of  caiiitulation.  made  the  Governor  a  prisoner  of  war,  and  permitted  the 
wholesale  plunder  of  the  place. 

This  year  the  much-vexed  Acadian  capital  was  visited  by  two  pirate  vessels  with 
ninety  men  on  board.  They  burned  all  the  hou.ses  near  the  fort,  killed  some  of  the 
inhabitants  and  burned  a  woman   and   her  children   in    her  own   house. 

Fort  Royal  was  then  given  up  by  the  l->ench  authorities  until  Nov.  26,  1691, 
when  ViUebon  resumed  possession.  In  1707  repeated  but  fruitless  attempts  to  contpier 
it  were  made  by  strong  but  ill-managed  expeditions  from  Massachusetts.  The  French 
defenders  fought  with  wonderful  skill  and  gallantry,— at  the  same  time  complaining 
bitterly  of  the  neglect  with  which  they  were  treated  b\  the  King's  government.  Three 
years  afterwanls  the  New  I-ngland  colonists,  aided  bx  the  British  Government,  sent  a 
force  consisting  of  foin-  regiments  of  colonists  and  one  of  Royal  marines,  (jueen  Anne 
largely  aided  the  expedition  out  ot  he--  own  purse.  Phe  invadiM's  were  w<-ll  etpiipped 
lor  th(Mr  work.  ,\  sturdy  veteran,  General  Nicholson,  had  supreme  charge.  Port 
Royal  was  in  no  condition  to  rt^sist.  Soldiers  and  civilians  were  poor  and  discontented. 
Governor  Subercase  had  only  about  three  humhvd  men  on  whom  he  could  depend, 
while  the  invader  ha.l   more  than  ten  times  that   numixM-.       The  siege  continued  si.x  days 

when    Subercase    capitulated.       (iarrison    and    i.>«ii    iw.r.,il,.    ,. .,1 ^    : _f 

starvation.      N 


ison 


)f  the  Queen.      lie  left  a  ga 


changed   the   name   of    i'ort    Royal  to  .  liniapolis   Royal, 


Mi 
P 

cil 
0 

»|! 
|l  \ 


m   lionour 


rnson  o 


f   t 


wo  huiKi 


rixl 


marines    ami    two  humlred  and   fifty 


'I 


n^ 


:1  V< 


P    I 


It     i'-i 


68 


yV//S  /^:ASTE.RN,yosT  RIDGE 


^•-w   lM.olan,i   v<,l„nt,.,.rs   in   char.-.    „f    ti,,.    plur       Tl, 

Knell     niissionaru's        I'lic      \       r 
'^"■"   to  procun.    tinib.-r    for    .vbuikiin..     th.   fort       r''    1  ^  '^    ^-'''"     ^"^ 

''•'-    '-nH>.     with      ,n,,ian     alii,.      ^A^^T'^'^''^'''''''''^^''^^^'-^^-- 
^rcat   ,.cni--l„.  i,....|    ,,,  ,^.^^.^„^„,^  '^44.    Annapohs   uas    a^ain    n, 

'^^   -"■  --   n,     ,;S,,    .,.n    ,.:    An^n.an     '    ",   "^   ^'^":"''      ■'"'"■   '"''   ^"""^'   -"   --'' 
"i^^'n.   cap,un..l   tin-   fort     spik,,,    „„       "       ,      ,  "'"'''     '"'^'    ^''^    '^^'-■>'    "-"''-t    cover    ,„ 

^"-  '^"-'-^-''  t,,..  i,o...::   :,:::,'"^"'^'  '"■  "^^-^^-^'^  ^'^  ""■  '^'-'^-"--  -- 

^'" "    iK'iits    content 
lo-day    no  scene   is  less    iik,.K     ,,.   s,,,,        , 

' »•  ""'-.K  „,-,n.,,,  ,,„„  „:,,.„„„,:,':„;:■"■  "■","  ;'■■"  "■■-»■'"' »"»-  •"- «...- 

'■^'■'' - ...„,,.: .::::;:;;::'"■'';'--" ''''"»--- 

<».-.ll.-.l  I,    ,1,.:  ..arii,.,  „„,^„     ^  .   .  ,.         "'■"    ""■"''^    ■!"■    "-■">»■   S,'a..:»ay.      I,i„|,,  c,;, 

^ --.......„..„  :;/::;:::t:;:vr:,r'- '; -■■"^■'--'> 

hundre.i   ami    f.ftv  feet   l,i,.h     and   on    H  ,  '"'   ''"'    "'"''''   ■"•^    ^''-^ 

■""  »'«•>■  '■■>-  •'■',„  ,„„.;; ;.;";,    *„:;;:" »;"'-  '■ ■  - .-^^.i .-  «>■,:  ,„.„.,„, 

^ '^'77 --"••' "■■^■"■...^a,,,M::,:;::::::r;:::,:; ':.-'^^"— ■ 

't    =n     .ielicacv   or    fl.-.v,.,,-        a     .  ..  '     p-'feaion.       a. 


{ear   K' 


ac)-   or    (I; 
iver     ininl.le: 


i\()i;r. 


A    f. 


<•«     miles     I) 


li  inl 


lo\vn     fri 


•yomi    J)i<,|, 


'111     the 


'>■.   alon;^    th 


surpasses 


'onth     .Mount, 


(■  <d-e  of  th,.   H; 


isin, 


'111    lielueen    bold    and 


picluresqiie 


wl 


OF   THE   CONTlNEN'i 


69 


cost    New   E:ij;lan 

'"'■'It       This    prove  1 

was  still   in    tile    f,,i 


ans,  l,„t  tlicir  fFforis 
-^  i-cfiised  even  for 
Jest   in   the  yjirrison, 

■  ■-'•nie    tmiiblcsom,. 
<h'i-  iiKuh'   prisoners, 
ts    .L^arrison     to   sac 
'"■11    iM-ance    at    lasi 
pojis  was    ayaiii    in 

■  and  (h'terniination 
:ist  soLuul  or  touch 
^in  under  cover  oi 
<■   'jlotk-Iiouse,  and 


'    '^asin,   tiiese  gar- 
lic ays.      I-:veii    the 
1   aspect  of    peace, 
of  the    vales    anc 
halls    are   turnec 
souvenirs  of   the 

oyaj^er  enters  its 
't  of  the  i;ay  of 
iiiil  th(,-  ra,!.,re  of 
■vay.  I)ioi,y  Gut 
'-■orye's  Channel) 
K'    north   are    si.\ 

to  live  hundred 
niit,  and  is  ver) 
1  anion-;  chorr\ 
<irt  duriiiir  siun- 
nists  from  Jfali- 
"i.^''\'    to    taste 

liini  sui-passes 
e  of  the  liasin, 
rind  picturesque 


inar.q;in  of  Annapolis  Basin,  and  the 
pastoral  repose  of  to-day  are  in 
l)Ieasant    contrast    with    the  troubletl 


r 

14 

i 

in 


times  that    are    <^ 


one. 


nnapolis    Ro)nl    rejoices    in   its 


which    an    amjjle    market    is    now  secure 


il   in     Londor 


growinjn 
Digb)'   is 


e.xport    ol 
famed   for 


apples,   for 
its  "  Digby 


•   1 

Pi 

il 


Il     I'i 


:: 


70 


I  hickciis  " 


^■///:-   /z\IS-r£A>Aj/c)sr  RIDUE 


at    ill, 
■    •''    ''"•    ^'"i-th    .Mountain 

""■'■  I'lan   a  liu,, 


""^'^'•"i-^  Its    sm..k,..l    luTrin^.,    ••bloaters"    I,,  I  1     . 

■'"'"■  - '^ '  ■'■'« ..™, :;::,.»:;  'V  "™' """  "- 

'■- -» ' K.,  .::l.,:;::;;r;'-; -"—'"-- 

/::,  ::;;;:t:;;::  •:;7'' ■'• ' • '■-•'-•>-.,,..„ 

T,„.  „,.,.,,;>    ;Vr ■"""■"■"""■-■>"' Halite. 

-'•■ ■■■■KM,,,;.,,,:-,::;:::':::;;;-!;-'' -'^- «■„,.,,„  „„_,_, 

""-'■> ■■!■•  ■■!■  .^'  i.a,,  „.,,,,  ;,„:.;: ;":-"  T'-"-  ' >  ■ ■-, ., 

■'■■■■"'.^   -■";,,,,,  „,,„   ,,„„,,,  .,,,„„    .„      ■;  -    ""■"■  »■;■ »,a-,™l,    „a,c„,„,    ,,,,  „,,„ 

--'.";:::::::::*::':::. -"""-' '->■»-..< .„,.,„' 


"■"      "'     ■,--!«.   ».„!  ,1,,.,,  ,-,,„,»,.,„„;,„„    ,,.^„,„.,, 


""■■'■'■«'     "'    111"    l',.,>M„,.,      A   ,d,,„„,  „.  '     ,  ,  ■■'    ^•■"■■'■all^   a,-„„s„l 

"'«'■  I.-'  '..■™  ,1.1,. ,::::"" •  '■■'■  "-'-'■'•'^  >^  -".  "«■  .™o,. 

"'""■•^.  ■■■■■■^^■i.> ■.!.., -,,,:':,;■. :t-,  "■'""■""-■  •'■'"■'•--.■ 

'^"'-"->'. .■■■■.i.«.  a„„  „»,„::,:::■";-":  •' —""■"<" 


'"    '"    '"It    th..    cxprdil.on,     , 

Jiitrn.iin-    cini-r.uus   ^vrr, 
I'K'iitiis    ali.i-   tli< 
'  li'.iriii 


'itm<'-t   ardour.      J'arliam. 


"t    Mi-.-intcl    /;4o,cxH, 


'"    '''■    'oiivcvtMl    to    the 


colony,    maintaincl     for  twelv, 


lihir.i 
lill.'d     I, 

r 

1 1- 


^    ">'■   '••'n>l    and   for  hshin.-     ,11     n     M,  '    impl.m.MUs    fo 

—  i-in ™,.  1..M  „,/    ,;        ^■^'™-    "^    ""•   '^n-"  <-v..nn„.u.     S, 

"V    ■'"    '■a.-i-    thron,.    ,„„,   ,  '"   '"    "  ^""'^   '"""   '""   "---'   transports  ...,-, 

'-   -,.rs  d...    .7l,..  ■'"■'■    ''''''^^    ^  '-'•"■    -Ws. 

"'"'"   "■"   "•'■'^t,'-n   shor,.  of    th,.  harlonr     ,n  1 

"""-'"'  "•■'""••  '•^"'  -  '■<•  i'<.ns.d  ,.fo  „  i::"""^-"^' 

""'"'    ''"''>'•-•    --'^    '-for,.,      rnd.r    ,1„     1  7'''    --''-•■ 

ti-v    H,.ar,.d    :,...,.    „ ,  "'<■   l-ad-rslnp  „f    .lunr 


vvoii;     viw..nn,iisly.       l-iv,.     t 
""'    f'-"     "f    them    had   han 
-lallant    \oun-    (io\,.rnoi 


^"-ai^iu   stnvts.   crossing   .ach    oth.r     „  •  "        '"''    ""^    ^'     """>'-•    '" 

^  — "~  p..i-.-.,i,-,  »i,i,  i,i„,t.„„„„,,  „, .     ■  ''■"■'-  ■■■■■"  '"""«'•'  <• i.,„.„„. 

•'■' -■■■- , I  ::,:,:::';:'"■ ' '-'"■' ""'-■■"« ■-. 

'"■'   "-■■■       n,.    , ,i„,  ,„    „    ,„,„,  '7'"'' :"■"  "•■■■"'™'l  »,^->».   Il.an   I,,,,., 

^-'■"••■■M  ui,i„„„„K  „„:,„^  „:: :  ' ,'"■■ iw- a„,  ,„,.,„„.  ,„„. 

■■■■ ,  «..j ,„:,:: ":" '"- '  n..' a,:,,,,.,,  ,.,,„„ , 

■   "■  '"■"':  ""'"'"• '  ■'■■■-  »■■■■■ .i,i>  „„. 

■         '""     "" '"'"■■■•'    -■'    "-    '.a-,.,     ,,„.    ,„,, 


J 


m 


II 
fricndK 


'I'   foliisioiis    ocdirnd. 


F 


p 


1-*;^^-, 


:M 


:^5^ 


I  t ; 


iiH 


I  -.  '■'it 


If   1 


■•« 


72 


7V/^^   y^^iSTjU/i^VA/Osr  RJDUE 


capuvi,,  «„,„  „„„  j„,„,      ,,     ;"^  "■='■-,  l""""''  »"<l  whole  f„„;„|,,  ,„,,„,    „^ 

--•'^-  ™' » .->•  Ton, »..,:;;,':  """"'  ■'■'"'- "-  -■"- "■  - 

■I"'   -.^l«T,    of   d.eir   ,,„„,„.  ~  ""■"■   ■•••"■"^■".■-■n    consuming    i, 

-.vice  „„   „-,,a,   i,  „„,.    ,,„,„„     ,,        ;.       '   ■'  'I-™.   ™...l.      \y<:  l,e„  „,  ,he   ,i,,,  J,-,,,,', 
'"-,  .■,„,;,.,,.,,„„„,  ,  ,,      ,„„,  '"■"'   ''""''■■     ^'^    I'.....'"  C,,„rc„  „,„,  s,.   »,,,,. 

»^"''^ '-  ^ ." ^.-...-.,.,.r.  !:.,;;,:■■;:,  "";r",''''"''"'-^' "  "■- ^« » .'-'"*.•.■. 

«»«o„  H„,ai,  ,„„„„,,,  „,  ,„.  ,„„„„    „„,„„,,,,„■;■;,,;■'"";;  "'■"■■  -"i "»  .m-..cos  „, 

^1-   ..ones  of   i,  »,.„„.   fo ,„  „     „    '    ""    "  "";       "    --'»    "■    ■...«   Cay,  „,   „u,e, 

'  ■•' '- '-'. ..»..  ...™,.a ...,;,':',:;:.;;' ' "'"  "--^  *'"■"  '"^  *  »^-"-". 

in."    ..    Sister  of    Mercv  i„    .„.,  „|j  -„„.   '  Tl  ""  "  »'''''  '■°™"  ''""''  ""kI"  .ip<--.. 

"•   .Soo.   a.  .,,0  ,„a,l,  end   „,   „,„    „;„;■  ,,   .  '",  '""■■";"  ';o™."."cnt   ,-lo,„e  ,vas  ereo,,, 
™..-..  .-.-o..,  ScoUan,,.     C„.  early  „.,    e '  ""i    '"'  '"=    '""'''"'"    '"•'""S    ..oe„    „r„. 

freestone    an,,   „rani,o    at    tl.eirve,;.  ,e«       n    '",  ''""  """"""    "'    "'=  "o"'"'  ". 

o...  ..overntnent   „o„,e  site  i„  ,„„  L„,e   j,,  ,'""""    '""'""•'   ""    "«-'    o.-    ...• 

-"  -.-......y  .-oon..  an.,   is  a  ,.,..,  a.,;ra.,;er  ^IZ"  '-^'■^"-'"-  '""^'y. 

'"    ll....f.^.x    .<»r,,„„r.       I,  ,ie,    n,,,,'  '     '"""f"''    '■•-™.--.»   ."ay    ri.ie    in    perfect   safetv 

'■■""   "•=    -Narro.,..'    «c,e  i  ^         r  ''"      ""'"'   "  "'   "*»    '»"«•  »""  -n.racs 

of   "ter.     T,,o    „ar,„ s         ej  i,'";"   ""■,"''""'"    "^^    »    '>»-"",   s„ee, 

i'«   ..y..-..o..se.    n,arks    „,e   en  r  ,,  '"    "'   '"^  ''"•      ■^-''™   '^'-.i,    wi„, 

-■- ." «.-  ....■ ,  ca!  :;,:„::: " """  -'  -""-^  ■"•  --^^^  -■.■■  ...^..^ 

-•cular    stono    batt.ry,    bearing     on     u.    cou    a     i  ,  '^'^"''^°^^^-     ^o.^or,    a 

Thundercap    Sh..als.  '  '^'^''^""     '*^'"    '-       '  "'      «hips   off    the 


OF    THI-:   CONTINENT 


'if-  motIi,'-r  filled  Ji, 
iif-s  c.:rncj  off  to  ,. 
■M\i-X  on  the  east.;f 
^^  "I  the  hdple.vi  vi. 
OSS  ;.!-,e  ivater  ot'  \\v 
tlit-T  foiiiul  a  thin 
yincn    consuming    i, 

of  bloo.i.  Through 
•'Is  nf  history,  thc\ 
^-■"'■ts  in    uiosc  wild 

''il'"n  tlic  memory 
■  'Jf  the  first  divin. 
lurch  and  St.  M;,i- 
nent.  Governmem 
^■as  but  a  primitiv. 
'tl    its    ticfencos    ,,f 

Another  residcnc< 
'  sokl  for  privai. 
lis    tlay.   or    ratlic, 

tlie  old  skeleton, 
belie  might  ripen 
'ouse  was  erected 
laving  been  pro- 
of  the  wealth  oi 
erected  on  th( 
■chamher.  library, 

n  perfect  safet> 
g,  and  contracts 
beautiful  sheci 
^ro  Island,  witji 
ioned  with   their 

!"    Halifax    Mar- 

-   bay.       Thnr 

'oke     Tower,    a 

ships    off    the 


"3 


'-'i 


I  r  :■ 


W-li'sii 


f   - 


-I 

9ii 


Pi 

i 


)   n 


M 


'  I 


ll 


74 


THE  EASTERNMOST  RJDGE 


,;:„;'  "'""■""■  "V":  '■■:" '""^-  ^ '-"  "■ •" ■  ■"■■ » «■«"  i«i-.i 

S  ,1  „.,„„„  ,„.„.„.  .„.  ,„v,,.,..,-  „„„  ,„,  „„  „.„„, , ,„ ,,  

Nature   li<Ts(;ll    lor  .Is  ilefcruc. 

I..avi,„  ,„„-  i„,,,,i„„,  ,„..  „„,,,,  I,,  „^  „ _,,,^  „^^^_^  ^^  _^^|_|  1^1  _^^  ^^^^^^^^^ ^_^^^_ 

•■.us  .a  .,  .  ,,„,,  a,   ,1,..  „i„,  ,a,„Lli„„  .,,„„-„,.l  c,llc,l  |.-„„  ,;,.„,„.,     ,,   ,„„„„  ™.„. 
■•f  .1..   c„y.  I,a.,,„,„,  a,„l  »„r,.„„„.lin„  „„„„„   can  1,,.  seen  fr,„„  i,»  „,,IK  a»  a  H„„„.  a. 
...,r     l„«.„.,.,„  .all  ,„.,„..     Ci,a,l,.,   Hill   is  ,,,  ,„,    al.ov.:    ,1,..    I...v,.|    ,„    ,|„.   1      Tli 
my  l,c,  l,,.,„,„„  i,  anj  ,1,0  .„,„,   b„,  a,  ,„  a,    ,1...   ,,,  ,,,„  ,,,,,.1,  „„  ,,,1,..,  side    ,1,„ 
1.0..SC,  l,av..  „.„„„,,.   I,„„,,i,„,  „„i,  „„„,,,„,      I,   .,   _,  ^^^^^^    _^^^    ^^  ■ 

"...r„,„,-,„..  ».,a„h,  cross..™.,  l,»li„.  „„   ,,,   .,„„,„  ,„  ,„^.      ^,,,^,„.    ,  ; 

»l,.r,.,  ,„„.  a„.l  ,„„„  a,„„„„  „,■„.„  ,„ia,.,  „„„   b„,,„„.,   „„.  „.,,  ^„        ,,   ^,.     ^ 

"•"'■  -.  ^.".1  .s..  .^oo,,o.s  „„„„.  „  ,„,..„  „„,  p„„  ,.,.^  .,„  ^^,^^  ^,^  ; 

"'7'    """■"' ■■      ""■    ""•    '»"'-■'■>    "■»'    «■-    ™'«"'   O"    .!"■    Ci,a.l,.,    ,1   an    „c.a„ 

-k..      ,a,    ,  „„s,.  ,„,..,„,,,      :„,,,„,  „„,„^.„.^^,  ,_.,^   ^  _,^^    _  t 

,^:  ,:  '  ™'""™";"'.-—  «i'»«-^  only  a  «„s.c„ve™,  „„„   a,»,..  ,l,e  „iL.  ., 

»w,n,„„K    „n   ,„    ,.,„„.    ,„..    „a,.„,„.  „„,a„ce.«a.e.    a„„    eleven   ,„„s      ,„,„    ;„    ,    , 
crcle  below  l„„,.  like  potrife,!  „atcl,.doss 

„„,    „„    ,  '""     '''    """''■■«    ^"     'I"-'   "'ri""s    I" c    ,vl,arv,.»,    and    p„sl, 

.   a    s„„„„e,   even,„,.   ,,l,e„    ,l,e    „,„    i,  se.,i„,  l,el,i„d    ,„e    A. ,r,   | ,e  and 

'  :     '    "■"'"   '«""■"    ""-■    "»«"-'"    M's    <■"   l-c.   , ,.„    ev..,,.    ,,,a,sy    ripple 

«   n>n,er»  a  ,„„,,.  ,„„  .    ,„„  .erraced  ci,y  i,  l,a,l,ed  i„  .„,.,„-  .,  „,„ ,,    , L,;,  J  .    ' 

M  ,=».y,     ..ock,,,,,,    and    .l,e.    I,i„.    .ree-    near  .hid,    hi,  W„r,„i,,    ,|,e    Mayor  „a„,ls     o 

,':,-";;"■■      '"; """»  -'    """-'   ""l-^   ---  A,y are  ,l,ee,ed  .i,h   f,r  . 

■1-  .  J"»l,    d,e,    a,   ,l,e    nnn    ,inl„  ,„,„,,    ,„„„  „„,,    ,„.,    ,,,„ 

;"'.  "  "";■",  "''-  '"""■■'  '■'  »'" ""'^  «a.~.s    in    ,l„.    dvin,  ,„n,e.  e,„l       ' 

ynad,  „,    „lea,„re.l.oa„   .hread    .heir  way  in   an. ,  „n  .l,e  „,., er  a  lev,  a„,„n„  ,1   : 

i   ,.,    a    a„e  or:    her   MaJe„yV    ,la„ -. ,„,„„„,    , ^,  "^^  ^^^J-^^^ 

III'    .uiiiiiatoa   sceiK,'. 

l,lanI!"Ti|."",l'"r'    ""■■  ,':"" '    '"    ""'    '  ""■"  "  "'•■■   '■»"•■■•>-  ""    ■'^'-  '■-"^.es 

Island,     lal..  ,he  ,„„  on  Cadel   Hill,  i.  i,  , ,  „,  „„,„•„,  , ,  ,„.„ „^_,^^_  J^^^ 


Iltip 

•ill.  ; 


OF   THE   CONTINENT 


75 


on  the  wrstciii 
lall  .ijrecii  island 
>f  the  l)ail)()iir. 
(7/  i/'(///cr  fi-,,11, 
y    fashioned    by 

lim  -  nowhere — 
A   superb  view 
•  as  a  jrlance  at 
tli<'    sea.       I'he 
either  side    the 
a  cU;ar,   sunny 
iifi  water;     tlie 
of    sail-Hecked 
on    the  Dart- 
)pped  out  of  a 
was    an    octan- 
iurroiinding    it, 
d  ;    a  spacious 
the  wide,   dry 
nhat    a    busy 
md    ilown    the 
I'l    in    n    scMiii- 

'  into  a  small 
es,  and  push 
I's  house  and 
glassy    ripple 

grass  in  her 
yor  stands  to 
insformed  by 
ted  with   fire, 

the  Citadel, 
inset  embers. 
s  among  the 
IS   forts   amid 

.St.  George's 
great  earth- 


works. It  is  an  ant-hill  of  iunnan  beings,  whose  cells  are  casemates,  armories,  and 
arsenals  in  the  vaulted  Hanks  of  bastions,  deep  buried  in  the  piles  of  masonry.  As  we 
grope  after  a  guard  through  descending  passages,  the  air  gets  colder  and  colder,  until 
the  walls  can  be  seen  glistening  witii  the  ooze-hidden  springs,  and  ict-cold  pools  receive 
our  unwilling  feet.  We  step,  at  lengtii.  into  one  of  the-  casemates,  when'  a  cannon 
stands  before  its  round  port-hole,  like  a  lion  peering  from  his  covert,  waiting  for  his 
prey. 

No  lovelier  "bit"  could  be  than  the  bird's-eye  view  from  that  port-hole  out  of  the 
bowels  of  St.  (George's  Island.  .All  round  the  grim  circle  sun-gilded  grass  waved  in 
wanton  grace,  concealing  the  port-hole  and  its  tieadly  occupant  from  outsiders.  Out 
yonder  a  Hood  of  sea  ant!  sunshine,  with  a  lonel)  light-house  perched  upon  its  tongue 
of  rocks,  and  a  yacht  skimming  past,  iier  sails  tinged  like  ro.se-leaves,  while  a  sea  gull 
liew  from   the  dark  woods  on    MacXab's   Island  and   fluttered   seaward. 

Halila.v  is  fond  of  her  big  pleasure  pond.  There  is  the  Roxal  Yacht  Club,  of 
which  the  Prince  of  Wales  became  an  honourary  member  during  his  visit  in  i860,  and 
to  which  he  presented  a  challenge  cup  for  yearly  competition.  There  are  boat  races, 
water  parties,  e.xcursions,  and  fishing  ad  libitum.  In  the  winter  season  the  Basin, 
which  is  ten  miles  long,  makes  an  admirable  ground  for  trolling  m  itches,  sleighing 
parties,  and  a  score  of  other  ice  amusements.  "Up  the  road"  is  a  favourite  drive  of 
the  citizens,  and  a  lovely  one  when  the  oaks  and  maples  are  in  foliage.  Y  .'■  scirt  the 
edge  of  the  Basin  for  nine  miles,  when  the  pretty  village  of  Bedford  comes  in  view, 
and  you  |)ut  up  at  one  of  the  hotels,  and  return  to  the  city  in  the  moonlight.  The 
"  Prince's  Lodge  "  is  a  relic  of  the  Duke  of  Kent's  days,  situated  about  six  miles  from 
Halifax,  and  built  by  him  for  a  summer  house.  Nothing  now  remains  but  a  small 
wooden  pavilion  (once  the  music  room),  perched  upon  a  romantic  height,  overhanging 
the  deep,  maple-shadowed  water.  The  railwa)-  now  cuts  so  closel\-  under  it  that  it 
trembles  to  its  foundations  as  the  iron  steed  thunders  on  its  way. 

There  are  ujiwards  of  thirty  churches  to  the  city's  forty  thousand  inhabitants,  the 
oldest  being  the  "Little  Dutch  Church"  (Lutheran),  built  by  the  Gemian  settlers  in 
1761.  It  remains  unchanged,  with  the  exception  of  such  necessary  repairs  as  prevent 
:t  from  falling  to  pieces.  .\  conspicuous  object,  as  seen  from  the  water,  is  the  tall 
white  spire  of  St.  Mary's  Cathedral  (Roman  Catholic).  Like  the  "  Dom,  '  of  Cologne, 
'!  swallows  up  all  other  spires,  a  fact  due  rather  to  its  excellent  situation  than  its 
architectural    '      a. 

Halifax  ,  distinguished  for  its  charitable  institutions — the  Lunatic,  the  Blind,  the 
Deaf  and  I')uml)  Asylums,  Infants'  Home,  Orphans'  Home,  and  a  long  list  of  others. 
A  stately  c.istle  in  red  brick,  with  turrets  galore,  was  dedicated  to  the  paupers;  but  it 
wa.s,  unfort  "atel\-,  destroyed  by  fire  in  1883,  and  the  old  Penitentiary  received  the 
inmates  for    ^   time.  ♦ 


jiir 
III 
aiii^ii 


!  If 

'  'i 


P 


i  ■■»! 


"J 

•I 


76 


T///S  EASTERNMOar  RJDGE 


Unt.  recently  the  twin  ar, .  of  music  and  tl.  .lran,a  found  l,„t  a  Inkewarn,  wel- 
come  .n  ahfax  ;  ,n.t  the  .rec.ion  .f  ...  .,.,.,y  ,,  ^,„„,,  ,  ^^^  ,,,^  ^,,^_^^^^  ^^^^ 
what    ,„    ,      ,,.,,      f    ,,,   „-„,     ,^,  ^.^^^,  ^^^^    ,^^^  ^.^^^  ^^^^_^^    ^^  ^^ 

h.bu.on   Hall  not  only  sen.s  for   I'rovincial    .xhihitions,  hut    also    for    a    spacious    rink 


■i      ): 


<        9 


MKN    IJF    WAR.        MALI,  AX    MAkliuUK. 


bazaar  hall,  and  general  pub]:,  entertainments.  Dalhous,,  College,  situated  at  tin- 
north  end  of  the  Grand  Parade,  was  established  in  the  year  ,820.  at  the  desire  of  Lord 
naIhons.e,  whose  name  it  bears.  It  h.s  had  a  somewhat  checkered  history,  but  is  ar 
the  present  tin,e  in  a  flourishing  condition.  Within  the  past  few  years  ,t  has  ben.f^te.l 
by  the  hberality  of  one  of  Nova  .Scotia's  best  sons,  who  has  contributed  to  it  over  a 
quarter  of  a  million  of  dollars.  The  High  S-hool.  .hich  is  the  old  Gramn.ar  School 
resusctated  and  enlarged,  occupies  a  central  tion   at  the  south  end  of  the  Citadel 

Let  us  now  turn    from    these    details    to       .     ,        .,,p,ation    of    some   of    the   citys 
breath mg  places. 

A  C  „  ning  resort  for  the  people  of  Halifax  is  Point  Pleasant  Pa-k,  situated 
on  the  tongue  of  land  between  th<.  harbour  and  the  Northwest  Arm.  Mroad  carriage- 
dnves  of  a  most  excellent  sn,oothness  wind  through  the  natural  forest,  the  shimmer 
of  the  sea  ever  and  anon  closing  the  vista.  P'oot-paths  abound,  wL.re  one  mi^hl 
lose  h.mself  most  enjoyably  among  the  labyrinths  of  rock,  trees,  and  tall  bracke^ns 
Shut   your   eyes    and    ears    to    the    plashing    ocean    all    around,    and    fancy    vourself    in 


or   HIE   CONTINENT 


n 


ihu  15lack  I'oresl  nf  (;<rrnim>,  I  lien;  arc  the  mossy  reaches  under  tall  pines,  the 
wealth  of  wild  (li)w<:rs,  llw  nwi'ct,  resinous  (>>  .ur,  as  the  path  winds  up  and  up, 
you  care  not  whither,  When'  arc  tlie  ruins  ?  There  is  a  good  substitute  in  the 
old  Martello  Tower  "  rriiu:c  of  Wales  Tower"  — standinj^  guard  in  the  centre  of 
its  green  clearing,  and  though  there  are  no  legends  of  Black  Barons  or  .  ily  Lore- 
leis  attached  t(»  its  walls  il  i'*  a  innnorial  of  the  ilays  when  rough-handed  marauders 
hung  about  the  shore^i  and  skulking  Indians  peered  out  of  the  surrounding  greenery 
at    liie    pale-face    braves,    longing    for    their   scalps! 

This  park  containn  one  hundred  and  sixty  acres,  and  its  foot-paths,  riding- 
paths,  and  driving-courseH  average  some  ten  or  fifteen  miles.  The  commissioners, 
with  admirable  taste,  have  merely  cleared  away  the  underbrush,  planted  young  trees 
in  vacant  spaces,  ami  erowm  the;  best  spots  for  views  vvilii  summer-houses,  I'oiu- 
forts  and  batteries,  benitle't  the  lower,  command  the  coast  at  clilfereiu  [joints.  The 
War  Departmcul  owmkuI  the  whole  peninsula  until  1874,  when  il  handsomely  coiim  ded 
it  to  the  city  for  a  park.  Almost  ujiposite  the  park  stands  mother  frowning  fort,  York 
Redoulit,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Northwest  Arm.  The  quaint  little  village  of  Falk- 
land clings  to  the  side  of  a  precipitous  hill  below  it.  Beautifu.  is  the  scene  from  this 
stern  spot,  of  the  Arm,  with  its  richly  wooded  banks  and  its  graceful  inundations. 
.Near  the  moutii  of  it  are  two  massive  iron  rings,  fastened  into  the  solid  rock,  from 
hich  heavy  chains  were  woni  to  be  stretched  across  to  the  opposite  bank  in  time  of 
war.  Melville  Island,  near  the  hc.id,  contains  what  was  formerly  a  war-prison.  It  is  a 
two-st  woollen    building    with    grated    windows,    and    is    utilized     by    the    resident 

garrison  .is  a  jail  for  their  criminals.  Any  day  as  you  drive  past  on  the  charming 
"Shingle  Road"  you  may  hoc  the  soldier  felons  in  their  prison  garb  at  work  upon  the 
walls  or  embankments  of  their  small  territory.     Gentlemen's  residences  can  be  seen 


;iiii: 

£l!l| 


liosoinccl  high  in  tufted  tree-s 


sai 


along  the  shores  of  the  lovely  sheet  of  water,  and  tiny  pleasure-boats  dot  the  clear 
<;xpanse.  If  one  would  fetiHt  his  eyes  on  a  prospect  not  easily  forgotten,  let  him 
climb  the  hill  which  overlookn  the  Arm  on  the  western  side  and  enjoy  it  at  his  ease 
in  the  rustic  summer-houH«  that  has  ijeen  perched  there  by  Sandford  Fleming,  the 
L;reat  engineer. 

Humanity  in  thi^i  ([uaner  of  the  globe  is  worth  a  passing  glance;  and  if  one 
acsircs  his  specimens  au  iialurcl,  lei  him  go  to  the  Green  Market  on  Saturday  morn 
ing.  There  is  an  excellent  brick  market-house  with  stalls  that  can  be  hired  for  a  very 
small  rent,  but  the  |)reler«!nce  of  the  honest  country  folks  is  to  sit  in  the  open  square 
behinti  the  Post-Office  and  there  vcixl  their  goods  untaxed  to  the  early  customer. 
From   the    country   seitlementH   east   and    west   they  come    in    horse-carts,  ox-teams,  and 


i  \ 


t 


7H 


////:■   /'..ISTHRXMOST  Ji//)(i£ 


■•n   foot.       riuT..  an.   I  )u...hu„nu.n    fn.,n    alo,,,   ,|„-  ..asfrn    shur..    wi.h    th-.r    l.ask.ts  of 
^-.n  crops,  winch  hav.  I,....,,   nourish-.l  ..„   ,1„.  ,„n.st  ...on-  an.l    tlw    n.  1,..,    ...a-k,.!,. 
Ihere    are    th.    Hluc-nos..   w.-m.-n,   l.roa.l    an.l   hi.h-c..l„nn.,l.   f.arless    alik..    .,(    win,!    .„.! 
-•athor    as    they  driv.    .!,..-    |,.a.l...|    t.-ams    by    ni^lu  ..,.  ..ou^h  an.l    lon-iy    ..a.ls     ,., 
■oac      tlu.    earliest    I)artn.>uth        rry-hoa,.     Tin,-    ofl,.,   with    a    fri.  n.lly  sn,il..   .,n    th..ir 
w.ath.r.lH.aten   visaj^os,   ,,rin,r„s,.    Lutfr,  /.;-,/.,    „„.,,,   ,.,„,    ,ahha«...I,.av..s,    an.l    p..arh- 
-.^K's.   f.„Kl  f..r  the.  ,.,.ls.      -rh..rc  an-   iank-iiml....!   cnntrymen  cla.l  in   r..,„h  -ray  hom.' 
spun,    standing    l.,.sicl..    .iu.ir    i.,a.ls    ..f    ...^.tables    ,..-    salt    marsh    hav  ;     n...\,.,.n    an.! 
shrewd-eyo.1.    lik.    X..w    iCn.ian.l    farnu.,s,   i.„t    bashfully  court,,ot,s    .,f    sp....!,     with    ,h,. 
-ft    hsp    .,f    th..    c;..nnan    fatherlan.l    ..n    ,l„.ir    t.,n,.u..s    or    th-    burr    of    .h.ir    Scottish 
ancestry.      Here    are    a  pair  .,f   rVenchwomen   with    baskets    „f    knitted    ,o„.|s    on    their 
arms.     Contrast    the    wit!,.....!  an.l   v.^llo.  .randame.  her  «ri..Ie<l   hair  bui.in^  in  a  roll 
above    her    bushy    eyebrows,    h.-r    .Haw-like    han.ls    plying    her    knittino-wir..;    with    th.. 
fresh    youn,.    ,.>!    by    her    side.   wh..s..  arch   black  eyes  sparkl..   fn.n,   out   of    h,.,  smooth 
ohve    face,   and    h..r    uhit..    t....th    .lisplay  themselves  in   full   fore,  as  w..  hn,..r  ,h..  hu.e 
mutens  i„  h..r  bask..t.      Ol.l  an.l   youn,  ar..   habited  alike  in   blue  or  black   handkerchiefs 
t..^htly  knott...!   nnd..r  th..  .bin,  I.,os..  bhu:  jackets  with   napkin  shawls  fol.|..,l  .,ver  then, 
and  short  woollen   skirts.      .Scores  ..f  them   have  been   on  th..   r.,ad  all   ni.ln,   .r.utin.  th.^ 
twenty-s.x    miles    frou,    Cheg^etcook    on    foot,    th..,r    Infers    busily    p,yi„,    U,e    knittin^; 
.u.e<lles  al    t   e  way.       Th.-re  s.puUs  a   n..,ro   u.uron   ..n   th..    pav..n.ent,    l.r    clouted   feet 
stretc  ed    before  her  in   utter  disre.ar.l   of    pas.sers  by,   a  short    black    pipe    betw^-.-n    h..r 
l-ndulous  hps.      M..r  layers    of    ra.s    clothe    h..r    like    the    fun-n'    of    a   d..ad    tr..e.     her 
padded     hood     is     fashioned     to     fulhl     the   office    of    a    saddle    for    her    L.a.l       She    lr,s 
luscous    wild    strawberries    in    little    birch-barks,    which    she    ofTers    you    in    an    unctuous 
fal-setto,  stuff,n,   h,.r  pip,,   int..   h..r  bos..n,    th..    better    to    ov..rhaul  her  store  for  a  fresh 
one.     You   pans.,   in   your   bargain  as  you   wonder  whether  /.■.  /..,/.  hulled   the  temptin. 
Iruit  !  I       .s 

'^■'-    ■•  "-•''^-    '•-!    '"an  "    and    his    squaw  also  atten.l    market.     There    thev   stan.I    a 
clc...>erat..     pair,    clad    in    the    cast-off    clothes    of     the    white     man,     their    u.erchandise 
cons,stn,,  of    ,1a,  an.l   willow  baskets  ,ayly  dye.l  an.l  an   occasional  porcupine-quill   box. 
ll.e    squaw    .s    prematurely    a^ed.        ,ler    br<.ad.    copper-coloured    face    is    inconceivablv 
-nnkled  ;    her  ..yes,   fro.n    their    ambush  of    folds,   peer  forth   with  a  snaky  gleam       The 
■■  l.rave,     pn.pped   up  right   against   the    I'ost-Oti^ce  wall,  do.es  with   his  bunch  of  rabbits 
<>"  the.r  s..ason,  dangling  in   his  hand,  and,  working  his  jaws  mechanicallv  on   his  quid 
•Ireams  of-run.       A  bronze-tinted    papoose  is  strapped    under    a    fdthv    blank..t    at    th.'- 
niother-s  back  and   its  i„,passiv..  littl.-   fac  surveys  life  ..ver   her  shoul.h.r  with  a  perfect 
pMosop   y.      This    trio    has    .lrif,..d   f.on,    one    of  the  wigwa.n    hamlets  near   Dartmouth, 
and    th.ther    they    will    return    when    their    wares    are    dispo.sed   of,   if    thev    do    not    fall 
victims    to    rum  and  the  station-house. 


Ol-    I  III-:   CONTINENT  79 

lU'forc  we  leave  the  market-s(|ii;ir.'  let  us  i^rlanc.'  up  ( ieorjje  Street,  a  liiisy  (juartri- 
at  all  times,  Ixii  douLly  so  on  market  .lays.  In  the  forcj^foiind  a  compan)  of  her 
Majesty's  1,7th  rej^inieiit  is  marchin-  to  the  Dartmouth  f<rry-lioat  prohahiy  on  its 
way  to  the  I'.astern  I'assa.i^c  sliootin]:,'-),^roun(l.  Some  of  our  market-folks  are  sitting  at 
the  r«;ceipt  of  <  ustom  tirivin-  their  har^^ains,  while  an  ox-eari  or  two  .ire  composedly 
stationeil  hy  their  colouicd  owners  where  the  street  traff'u-  must  How  round  ihem  as  it 
hest  ran.  On  the  left  of  the  picture^  -^laniis  the  I'ost-OtTice,  a  handsome  stone  hiiildine 
of  recent  dat<'.  i'he  vista  up  iIk;  street  is  vers  (piaint,  closed  in  as  it  is  l,y  (  itadel 
Hill,   so  softly   <rreen,    with    the  (|ueer   old   lown-iiock    in    front   of   it. 

'I  he  I'lililic  (iardens  on  "  band-iiav  s "  are  the  favourite  resort  of  nurse-maids  aiti! 
their  char^rc-s  and  youii,!.,^  ,i,'enllemen  fond  of  llirtini;  and  lawii-tennis.  i'here  are 
fourteen  acres  of  i^round,  beautifully  arrani^^ed  with  ornamental  shrid)lj<M-ies,  rookeries, 
arbours,  pontls.  fount, lius,  lawn-tennis  court,  etc.  The  military  or  marine  band,  as  tlie 
case  may  be,  performs  in  ,1  tree-circled  stand  ;  the  babies  and  their  maids  wind  roumi 
the  musicians,  and  the  fair  ladies  of  Halifax  promenade  the  outer  walks  to  the  music 
of  Strauss  or  Sullivan,  (juite  unconscious  of  tlu'  knots  of  youn,L(  excpusites  who  stand 
on  the  j,aass  and  admire  them.  A  stranger  is  struck  with  the  peculiarly  healthy  glow 
of  these  ladi(!s'  complexions,  as  compared  with  the  bleached  faces  of  their  American 
sisters.  Doubtless,  the  Atlantic  breezes  have  to  answer  for  the  delicate  soiipioii  of 
tan  the  light  s|)rinkling  of  freckles  on  pretty  noses— that  William  Hlack  has  taught  us 
to  atlmire  on    his   heroines. 

Since  Nova  Scotia  was  settled  fishing  has  been  one  of  its  most  important  industries, 
and  Halifax  county  has  gone  into  the  bu.siness  largely.  Not  only  are  salt-water  lish 
in  abundance,  but  the  lakes  and  streams  swarm  with  salmon,  trout,  gaspereaux,  perch, 
and  eels;  not  forgetting  the  small,  delicious  smelts,  caught  through  the  ice  by  the 
cart-load,  and  worthy  of  a  place  on  Delmonico's  bill-of-fare,  Halifax  fish-market  is  said 
to  have  a  more  varied  supply  all  the  vear  round  than  any  other  in  America.  ']"h(.'re 
are  sixteen  different  species,  of  which  the  salmon,  cod,  and  mackerel  are  the  most 
important.  Halifax  tits  out  numerous  llet'ts  for  the  Labrador  and  Island  Manks 
fisheries,  but  all  along  the  .Atlantic  shore,  east  and  west,  thert'  are  fishing  villages, 
whose  chi('f  subsistence  is  g.uued  by  the  cotl  and  mackerel  fishing  along  tlu-  coast. 
.As  the  Spring  op(Mis  the  boats  are  exhumed  from  barns  or  heaps  of  spruce-brush  and 
caulked,  pitched,  or  painted  anew  ;  long  nets  are  sprtiail  on  the  grass  around  the 
cottages  ;  the  women  are  busy  netting  or  mending,  their  lingers  jjlving  the  rude  wooden 
shuttles  as  dexterously  as  a  lady  weaves  lu'r  fair\-  tatting  with  her  ivorv  toy;  hooks 
and  lines  are  prepareil  :  all  is  bustle  and  expectation.  And  when  the  boats  go  out  in 
the  brightening  dawn,  full  of  stalwart  men  — tlu'  fathers  and  husbands  of  those  the\ 
leave  b(  aind  them  when  the  sun  smiles  through  the  white  fog,  s(!iuling  it  back  to  its 
breeding-ground  ;     when     the    fish     come     in     fast     as     hands     can     haul     them,    and     the 


;:;!i 


/•"•'I 

•iHiii 

m 
iw 

li;ii 

!ll.l 
111)' 


?i| 


3IJ 


i 


;'  I 


Si  3  , 


80 


yy//:'  /z.isr£/^NA/osy  Huniu 


mackerel -schools  drift  on  the  deep  blue 
water  all  aroimil  with  a  sound  as  of  fall- 
injr  rain  -then  the  weather- heatcn  faces 
relax  and  the  pati.mt  hearts  ris(;  hi-r), 
with  hope  of  a  "nro(,d  tishin'  s|M.il."  Hut 
when  th(!  fierce  S(piall  smiles  th.e  rock- 
liound   shon;    and    the   wild    breakers    lash 


it    with    resistless   force,     .any    a    dceply-Iaden    boat    is   HW«pt    to   itB    destruction  ;    many 


OF   THE   CONTIXENT 


8i 


1 


i?  I'f*?'. 


ction  ;    many 


a   brave    man    sinks    in    sight    of    wife    and    home ;    the   earnings   of  toilsome   years    are 
lost  in  the  greedy  maw  of  liie  sea. 


"  For  men  imisl  work',  an,l  women  must  weep; 
And  the  liaibour-bar  is  inoaniiijj." 


N( 


Jot  one  ot  the  /en  towns  or  \  iUages  that  lie  alon;^-  tiie  Soutlieastern  coast  of 
Mova  Scotia  but  lias  .s  story,  or  garland  of  stories,  of  adventure  on  the  stormy  deep. 
■  They  that  go  down  to  the  sea  in  ships,  that  do  business  in  the  great  waters,"  some- 
linies  go  forth  to  come  back  again  with  no  ntuniing  tide.  The  st.-a  claims  her  prey  : 
and  nowhere  is  there  a  larger  [jriiportion  of  )oiuig  widows  and  groups  of  little  orphans 
than  along  the  .\llantic  coast.  Hut  there  are  abundant  stories  of  triumphant  condict 
with  the  elements.  Many  a  one  has  battled  the  storm  all  the  way  from  Labrador  to 
La  Have,  and  the  recital  stirs  the  yoiuig  bUjod  during  the  long  winter  evenings  when 
it  is  all  in  vain  for  tlie  tishennan  to  tempi  the  pt'rils  of  the  tlccp.  Many  have  won 
wealth  on  \.\\v  coasts  and  baid<s  and  coves  of  .Newfoundland,  or  away  up  among  the 
rough  Magilalens.  'I'hey  tell  of  comrades  lost  or  snatched  from  ihe  very  grip  of  death, 
riiey  tell  of  long,  weary  waiting,  antl  then  of  sudden  fortune,  anil  the  joy  of  the  home- 
coming. No  time  in  all  the  year  is  so  cvcntfLd  as  when  the  well-known  vessel  heaves 
m  sight,  anil  the  eager  watchers  name  her  name,  antl  the  word  passes  from  lip  to  lip 
nil  the  good  news  reaches  the  licarts  of  wifr  and  children,  .\n.\iou  >  fears  are  dispelled  ; 
gloomy  forebodings  are  laughed  at  and  forgotten  ;  aiul  there  is  more  than  the  joy  of 
harvest.  'Ihe  g.iins  of  this  )t;ar  tempt  to  renewc'd  adventure  ne.\t  year;  or  the  season's 
losses  kindle  a   hope   of  ni-xt   season's  gains. 

Scarcely  a  family  along  ihesi'  ba\s  and  coves  but  has  a  deep  personal  interest  in 
the  sea  :  it  is  their  mine  and  their  harvest  field  ;  a  father  or  brother,  a  cousin,  i  lover, 
perhaps,  is  on  the  wave.  The  mother,  the  wife,  thci  sister,  the  sweetheart,  will  watch 
and  wait  with  longing  heart  and  eager  i)rayers.  And  often  the  waiting  is  for  a  'mor- 
row that  never  comes — for  a  smile  that  is  never  seen   again. 

One  has  to  go  back  onl)  to  the  closing  years  of  last  century  and  the  earlier  years 
of  the  present  to  gather  u|)  tales  of  privateering,  bold  robberies  by  invaders  and  keen 
leprisals  by  the  sturdy  children  of  the  sea.  One  story  out  of  man\  must  serve  our 
turn.  Its  authenticity  is  vouched  for.  The  hen)  was  Captain  Godfrey,  of  the  little 
lown  of  Liverpool,  and  the  vessel  was  the  armed  brig  Ron r,  which  carried  fourteen 
lour-pounders.  Her  crew  consisted  of  tift\-live  men  and  boys,  nearly  all  hardy  fisher- 
men.    Near  Cape   Hlanco,  on  the  Spanish   Main,  the  Rover  was  attacked  by  a  schooner 

ten  six- 


md  three    gunboats    under  Sj^anish    roh 


th< 


schooner    rar'-vnv. 


men,   tt 


pound 


ers  an( 


1  otl 


ler  heavier   g 


runs. 


Aft 


er   a  struggle    w 


hich 


itinued   over  three  hours 


the  gunboats  made  off,  and  I  he  schooner,   Saii/a  RiUa,  wa;;  taken!     Says  Captain  Ood- 


i:: 

ii;:.  ji 

Mill 

DUI 

\ 

liljl 

.ui; 


p 

1 

^m 

er» 

m 

Ks 

^B 

Ci»; 

^H 

"•  •■■ 


.^t 


■^'*^'.'£. 


S:? 


.    ',«* 


/■///;"    /:•-/. V77fy¥/VyJ/aSy  AV/^^A' 


M 


frey:  •' She  was  fitted  out  ,ho  day  before  for  the  express  purpose  of  takin,  -,s  ,  every 
Officer  on  board  of  her  was  killed  except  those  in  command  of  a  part^  of '.-  soldier. 
.Here  were  fourteen  men  dead  on  i,er  deck  wl,en  we  hoarded  her,'  and  sevente..' 
-""'1-1;  the  pnsoners.  including  the  wounded,  numbered  seventy-one.  .My  ships  con,- 
I'-v^  inchuhn,  omcers  and  boys,  by  this  tin.  an.ouuted  to  forty-five,  and  behaved 
-th   that   courage  and  spirit   which    liritish   seamen  always  show    when    fighting  the  ene- 

'Z]  ""'■^■'      '    '"'    "'^  ■''  '"■•'"    '^"^'  •'     •'■''^'  ---y  ^o.t  fift^.four.     I  landed 

all  the  pnsoners  except  eight,  taking  the.r  obligation  not  to  serve  agahst  His  Majestv- 
tnu,l  regularly  exchanged."  After  numerous  adventures  Captain  Godfrey  arrived  safely 
■n   h,s  A.:.,v-at    Liverpool,    where,  after   th..    peace,   he:    disarmed    her    and    used    her    to 

""■"  "^''  ":  ""  '^■*"  '"'"^■^-  '■'-  1^^'^-''  Government  had  offered  him  the  comn,and 
oi   a  man-of-war,   but    he  d.Tiined   the  off.r. 

,.  '' "':  ''  ^"'"  ''""''■  "'"^  "'-  '--  -^^1-'^-  storms  are  too  comn.on  at  some  spots 
'""'•"■,  '^  ''"  ■'^'^^'■^''  '•"'•^>-  -'^''  ^^  ^'-t  steamer  sank  in  the  gale,  and  not  a  ..ul 
7"""''  '''  ''■"  ''"•  ^'"••>-  '"  ^'-^  ^->  ^'-vn  the  fishermen  on  th.  .hore  could  d.^crv 
tl-    n,as,s    and    rigging    of    the    //.,„.-.,.   as   the   furious  gale   shrieked   through   then, 

T'        ■  ■  '■'""■   ''•    "   '1^''"'    '■•"•*'    '''-•''    '"'■"^P^'^l   -'<1    sln-ltered    from    ,he    Morms  hv  a 

';■;;  "^  '''■•""■"^^''  '''■  ^l-  "■'^-•"  -■<■  '--h-eds  of  grave,  of  m.n  and  women  ,u,d 
^■'"'•''■'"-  <1'-™1.  -hen  no  storm  .as  on  the  sea  and  no  darkness  in  ,he  .ky  u, 
-xcus..  the  cruH  blundering  of  the  cu-eless  captain  of  the  A^/„U..  The  Icdo-.s  ..,v 
-'"   l-'-^l   -'t   b,.yond  Cap,.   Sabl..   where   n,any  a  gallant  ship  has  gone  down^wh.-e 

;'"'  "^    '    :''^"  '""■^'"■^   ''   •^••^-■'"•■•^    "-^   "-    -St  away   by  the    great    storm   wluch 
lu-  wortlu    I'uraans  of   Boston   believed   to   have   been    sent   specially   in    answer  to    their 
last   Day  pray.r  to    confound  the  plans  of  the  inv.uler. 

Halifax   has  within  easy  reach  of  it  som,.   sandy   beaches  that  naturallv  attract  hosts 
''  ^'""r:  ;^""'^'      ^'^^    '^^'>'   -^'-^   ^^   f-v   nules   of  th,.  city,   is  one   of  U^e   most  bra. 
n.g    an.l   d,.hgluful    bathing    resorts    in    America.       Westwar.l,   we    find   two    silverv    sand 
1-du.s    a,    the    head   of   Margaret's    Hay,    and    the    largest  of  all,   son,.,    nules    in  Extent 
='^     '^^t,te    R,v„.r,..       These    places    are    not    so    easily   accessible- not    r,.ached    by    rail- 
way or  steanter-and  henc.  are  not  yet   popular.      The   Atlantic  coast  seems    as    if    spe- 
cially des,gned   to  afford   the  greatest  possible  reli,:f  in  suntnter  to  those  who  suff..r  fr.ue 
t   '■    terrd^e      ...t    of    ,he    interior    of    this    continent,      The    large    bays        .  dotted  wi.h 
.slands    affonhng  abundant  scope   for  safe  and  pl,.asant  boating  excursions.      The  streau,s 
•"'--•   -   '-!•  :     and   the  coast  waters  yield  codfidt,   herring,   mackerel  and   son^etuu-s 
hahbut.   Ml   abundance. 

CHKsr.K.  forty  miles  south-west  of  Halifax,  is  reached  by  daily  stage-coach  .u- 
Pnvate  conveyance,  along  a  d,.lightful  road,  skirting  the  shore,  or  passing  un.U.r  th.. 
shallow  of  loftv  h''".-      'n,,.  vill  ,  •„ 

,„,.„  ,  .         '  '''    ^'"^'-'^  ''"'''''  ■'  '""   -I'i'l^   sl"l>-  towar.ls  th..  s,..-,  and  ,om- 

mands  ext..ns,v..  s..a  views.     ■rh,.re  are  deligl.ful    .Irives  in   the  vicinitv,   and  the  bay  .s 


(V-'    rifh:   CONTJXF.XT 


8: 


takinjjr  us  ,  every 
v  of  25  soldiers  , 
anil  seventtM'ii 
1\1>'  ship's  coni- 
ve,  and  iiehavcd 
fi.tjhting  the  ciic- 
i-four.  I  landcl 
list  His  Majesty 
■y  arrived  safely 
!ul  used  lier  to 
im   the  conimaiid 

>n  at  some  spots. 

and   not  a  nohI 
re   could    descry 

throiiLrh  them. 
lie  storms  hy  a 
md    women   .iinj 

in  the  sky  to 
I  Iie  ied>;es  ,ii-(- 
e  down— where 
at  st(jrm  wiiicji 
mswer  to    their 

lly  attract  hosts 

the  most  hrac- 

o    silvery    sand 

iles   in   extent, 

ached    by    rail- 

nis    as    if    s))(- 

iiio  suffer  frou' 

■  dotted   with 

rile  streams 

nd   sometimes 

tajTc-coach,    or 

n<,^    tinder    the 

sea  and  com- 

nd   the  bay  is 


I 


dotted  with  innumerable  islets.  Aspotooran,  a  bold,  bare  hill,  the  loftiest  aion.o-  the  .At- 
l.mtic  coast,  is  usually  visited  from  C'liest('r.  i'roin  its  summit  one  sees  the  fabled  three 
lumdred  a.nd  sixty-live  islands  of  Mahmie  I'.ay.  Ciptaiii  Ki<]<l,  the  redoubtable  pirate, 
is  credited  with  havin-  hidden  liis  treasure  011  Oak  Island,  near  Chester,  and  anient  seek- 
-rs  after  forbidden  wealth  ha\e  e\i)en(led  fortunes  in  trymo-  to  n-ach  the  earth's  centre 
here.  Once  and  a.L,^ain  they  have  penetntt..'d  over  one  himdretl  feet,  as  if  a  j.irate  could 
diLT  so  deep  even  if  he  had  wished  i  The  village  of  .M.ihon.'  liay  is  charmin-ly  situated 
,it  the  head  of  a  narrow  basin,  whose  uK.uth  is  screened  by  islands,  and  whose  sides 
.ii-e  sheltered  b\-  st<'ep  hills,  .\  few  miles  farther  on  is  Linienbur--.  a  llourishino  town, 
the  centre  of  the  county  of  the  sanu!  name  a  slice  of  ( .erman\  laid  down  in  \o\a 
.Scotia.  In  winter  this  county  is  bleak  and  dreary,  the  forests  ha\in,L,f  been  lars^ely  ile- 
stroycd  by  hres.  In  summer  it  is  nrreen  and  lovely,  and  in  harvest  time  its  hillsid<-s 
are  golden  with  yellow  -rain.  The  town  of  l.unenburo-  rises  on  a -entle  slope  from  the 
shore  of  the  h.arbor,  X'iewed  from  Cosm.ui's  Observatory,  which  stands  on  the  siiinniit 
of  an  adjacent  hill,   the   town   appears   while  and  clean   in   the   midst  of  a   \ast  panorama 


-1% 


•  uid   wooded    islets    -each 

'•et  in   a    mirror  of    mol- 

f'n    silver;— pretty    cottan;,>s    on    c^rassy   hillocks    or   half    hidden    in    the  valleys  :    north- 

Ward    a    vast    cresciMit    sweep     of    dark    forest  ;     far    ,s(  uthward    the    shinintr    nea.        An 


nil, 

11!;' 


Mill 

;i.'i 

iiiii  , 


t1 
I 

I 

i:.; 


4 


rf 


84 


TT/ZT  EASTERNMOST  R/DGE 


lure  111    i^j3,  at  the    invitation    of  the    Mrin^l,    r-^ 
mont.    which    ,.avc    them    farming    implements  '^    '^°'""- 

and  three  years'  provisions.      Tlie  new  comers 
suffered    from   the   Indians,  and   tales    are    still 
'"1<1    of    atrocities,     fearful    murders,    and    the 
'".rrors    of    a    long    captivity.         Comparative 
nearness     to     Halifax    was     an 
element  of  safety  here.      When 
the     Revolutionary    war    broke 
out,    Lunenburg    was    honoureil 
with  a  visit    by  two    p-ivateers, 
which    took    away    all    the    loot 
tlu'y  could   find.      In  June,  1813. 
an    American    privateer   was 
chased    into    these  waters  by  a 
British  man-of-war.      It  refused 
to   surrender,    and    being 
in    imminent    danger    of 
t^apture,  was  blown  up  hy 
one  of  its   officers.     The 
whole  crew  perished.    Lu- 
nenburg   is     now    deeply 
<-ngaged    in    fisheries,    in 
Hhip-building,  and   in   the 
lumber-trade.       The  Ger- 
man  colonists  who  stood 


I.A  1  li   01--  ClTADI'lL, 
AND  OLD  CLOCK  TOWER. 


'«^i;Js. 


the  brunt  ot  pioneer  life  would 
have  been  proud  and  satisfied 
if  they  could  but  have  seen  the 

prosperits    of   their  enterprising 

grandchildren. 

The  0\i:.\s,  near  Lunenburg 

town,  deserve  to  be   looked  at, 

if  not  explored.      High  cliffs  fac- 


ing the  Atlantic    have    been    undermined    In    the    constant    cr.sh'ol    ,1,         ■   , 

noise  like,   .l,,,,,,,,,       Wl„.„   ?,,  \  "        "        '"'""'"'"'"    '"'«■   ^"''   »"'   » 

-  -  --™.  :"::;':::i:i:z;t  ;::::':* '3:'"' :  r 

considerable  quantities  in   the  sand-  but  th.  "        ^-  ^  """''  '" 

P  - » .n... .  .„„ ,™, ':;,;;;-, :™"- ^  x,,:^  .:':r ", ;- 

Ikonhound  Island— the  I   ,  Hn,,,.   ..   f  ■  ^"'^  °^ 

this  I.n  .       TI  '  "'''  '■''°*''  "^  "'^'   ^''•^"<^''  "'l'^-"  they  possessed 


(It. 

ill,, 


OF    THE   CONTINENT 


85 


the  force  of  the  sea  and  tn  screen  the  islands  that  are  inside,  which  are  well  wooded, 
fertile,  and  habitable.  Hut  when  the  storms  of  winter  rave  round  these  coasts,  when 
the  Atlantic  is  aroused  by  the  yales  of  March  and  April,  there  are  weeks  that  the 
dwellers  on  the  islands  cannot  communicate  with  the  mainland.  This  was  one  of  the 
lir.st  spots  colonized  by  I-ranc- :  here  Isaac  de  Razilly,  the  wise  and  gallant  Knight  of 
Jerusalem,  the  sagacious  Lieut.-General  of  Acadie,  the  far-sighted  captain  of  the  West, 
died  suddenly  in  1636,  and  here  he  lies  buried.  His  death  was  an  irreparable  loss  to 
the  men  of  wiiom  he  was  the  leader  ;  for  internal  strifes  followed  which  proved  more 
deadly  than  the  attacks  of  the  common  foe. 

Liverpool  is  the  aspiring  designation  of  a  pretty  little  town,  a  mile  long,  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Rossignol.  The  river  is  the  outflow  of  a  series  of  lovely  forest  lakes 
away  up  in  the  bosom  of  the  hills.  This  region  was  explored  in  1622  by  Sir  William 
Alexander,  who  found  "  a  pleasant  river,  and  on  every  side  of  the  same  they  did  see 
very  delicate  meadows  having  roses  white  and  red  growing  thereon,  with  a  kind  of 
white  lily  which  had  a  dainty  smell." 

Shklburnk    is    one  of  the  prettiest  of   towns,  on  a  land-locked  bay  ten  miles  long 
by  two  or  three  wide.     It  has  a  curious  history.     The  beauty  o^  the  situation  attracted 
the  attention  of  the  Loyalists   of  New  England,  large  numbers    of  whom  came  here  in 
1783.      In  one  year  the  forest  along  these  peaceful  shores  gave  way  to  a  city  of  12,000 
people.     Wealthy  patricians  sought  here  to  live  under  the  old  flag.      For  the  first  year 
all  seemed  brilliant  with  hope.       Governor  Parr  entered  the  bay  in  a  royal  frigate,  and 
so  delighted  was  he  with  the  progress  and    promise   of  the   place,  that    he   encouraged 
the    project    of    making    it  the    capital  of  the    Province  in  place   of  Halifax.       Unfortu- 
nately, the    harbor  is   so   thoroughly  land-locked    that  it    is    frost-bound    in  winter;    and 
this  proved  fatal  to   the    claims    of  the    new  city.       There   was   also    no  back  country- 
nothing    but   the    mighty  forest  i)el!ind    from  which    to    draw    s.ii.plies    or  with   which  to 
trade.       For  two    years    the    cit)'  grew  apace.       Two    millions   and  a  half  dollars    were 
expended  in  the    costly  experiment.       It  collapsed    almost    like  a   dream.        In    three    or 
four  years  it  became  a  village  of  400  inhabitants.      Many  of  the  Loyalists  went  back  to 
thi;  United  States.      Many  moved  to  other  places  where  the  hand  of  industry  could  earn 
a  living.     But  the  beauty  of  the  situation  remains— bay,  cliff,  stream,  island,  the  orjeam 
of  the  distant  sea,  and  the  unbroken  belt  of  forest  along    the   low    ridges    of    the    Blue 
Mountain  range.     There  are  fertile   and    well-peopled    valleys   in  the   county,  and  rising 
towns,  such  as  Lock's  Island,  that  the  fisheries  have  made  wealthy. 

Port  Latour  must  he  looked  at  in  honor  of  the  brave  man  whose  name  it  bears,  and 
who  stood  true  to  his  loyaltv   in  spite  of  every  temptation.     Fort    Louis,  which   young 


atour  held    against    hi^,    fatlu;r,  has  vanished  into 


space.     There  is  but  a 


smi 


shi 


lamlet  row,  when    in  the   17th  century  there  was  much  trade    and    mrt. 


ing 


Sable  is  the  veritable  Land's  Lad  of  Nova  Scotia,— 


tary  stir.      Cape 


Mil 
Mill    ' 

Ulil 

iiij 
'"(I 


r» 


■rocky,  rt»ugh  ^x\A  .>arren. 


A 


i   '  I. 


Ik 

I; 
S 


1'^ 


I' 


S6 


77 //t    Ji.lSTHRA-AIOST  RIDGE 


Yarmouth  lies  alons  a  line  of  low,  rockx  coast.—tlu.  hailiour  at  hi.L^h  tide  full  to  thr 
brim  with  th<:  turbid  waters  of  th..  Hay  of  JMiiuly,  aiul  at  <l.l.  tide  scantily  enough  sup 
phed.  Cooliiii^r  mists  and  dense  fo.irs  often  com.'  in  with  the  tide,  and  the  consequence 
IS  that   the  verdure  of   ^•armouth   is  ..f  the  deepest  jrreen.  and  its  blossoms  of  tlie  bright 


I'lSlll.k.MI.N    I.AMlINt;     IN    A    GALE. 


2st  white  and  n-.l  and  purpl...  The  strr.ts  arc  fairly  wll  l.uilt,  and  off  the  lines  of 
111.-  Streets  riv:  th,.  i,andson,.s.  villas,  embosomed  in  ,>;ardens  and  presenting-  every  ap- 
p.  u.mce  of  tast..  and  w-alth.  \owh..v  will  you  see  si.x  ihonsand  j-eopl,.  hetto"  housed  ; 
and  the  schools,  churches,  .  ourt  house,  (actori.s  and  shops  have  cau-rht  the  same  air  of 
substantial  comfort.  V.irmouth  is  a  ship-ownino  town.  It  is  stated  that  in  1761  th.. 
vvhol,.  county  owne.l  25  tons  of  shippn,^-.  The  town  now  owns  ov..-  a  h.mdred  and 
tw.MUy  ihousan:!  tons,  -mon-  in  proporti.,n  to  the  population  than  anv  other  place. 
Th..  ,nost  eligible  sites,  ,h,-  ,nost  .leganl  buildings  in  town  and  vicinity,  an.  th.- 
I'mperty  of  "captains"  .l,,,  hav..  won  w..,,lth  on  the  stormy  .seas,  and  who  n'turn  to 
enjoy  t!!..ir  W'el!.,.arned   re.t   in  thr  bosom  .,f  their  lamilies.      Kvery  on.,    is    deepiv    int.- 


r.'sted   in   the  se 


a.  and  shipping  nc.w- 


■agerlv  scanned  i.i  lind  t 


i.lm<js  .) 


.{   f; 


son,   or    fri(M,.i       The    cruel    sea    claims  large  tribute  from   thos.-  w 


ith.'r 
t   f< 


brot 


1..  r. 


111)  woo   It   for  we 


L-alth 


I'll 


OF    77//:    CONTINENT 


8- 


h  tide  full  to  tlu 

iitily  enough  sii|) 

tlu'  conse(iiieiui 

ms  of  the  brighi 


)H'  xhc  lines  of 
nting  every  ap- 
•  bett(;r  iKnised  ; 
tlic  same  air  <if 
it  in  1761  the 
a  liinulred  and 
i\'  oilier  place, 
linity,  arc  tin 
who  return  to 
is  dcej)!}-  intc- 
father,  lirother. 
)  it  for  wealth. 


nid  Yiirmouth  has  paid  its  share.  The  graves  of  her  sons  are  in  many  a  strange  port, 
and  ill  many  an  ocean  cave.  Prudently.  Yarmouth  is  turning  her  attention  to  manufac- 
nirin^  industries.  .She  has  foundries,  woolen  mills,  a  duck  factory;  and  a  beginning  is 
made  in  iron  ship-building  one  of  the  greatest  industries  of  the  future.  The  Acadian 
■.lory  could  be  repeated  here  -the  long  conflict,  the  expulsion,  the  return  of  a  lew,  the 
Miming  of  New  Englanders  to  take  possession  of  the  pleasant  heritage.  Argyll  Bay  in 
ihii    count)    is    singularly  beautiful  with    its  365    islands    and     numerous    peninsulas,  and 

pleasant  little  hamlets  of  prosperous  fisher- 
men. But  the  section  which  is  peculiarly  at- 
tractive to  the  lover  of  nature,  to  the  angler 
and  the  moose-hunter,  is  the  lake  region  of 
1  iiskc't.  These  lakes  are  eighty  (more  or 
less)  ill  number,  and  are  Uf^arly  all  con- 
ne'ted  with  the  Tusket  Ri\er.  They  are 
smaj,  rock-bound,  o\x'rsluKlowed  by  spruce, 
birch,  maple  and  beech  ;  while  over  the 
river  itself  the  elm  often  droops  its  graceful 
branches.        Here    the    fisherman    is    sure    of 

abundance     of     gas- 

pereaux  in  the  lower 

reaches  of  the  ri\er, 

and     farther    inland. 

salmon     and     trout. 

The   favorite  haimts 

of  the  statel)"  luoose 

and  graceful  caribou 

extend  along  the  sides  of  the   Blue  Mountain 

range  over  eight)    miles.     When   we  sjieak  of 

lakes   and   rivi  rs   in    Nova  Scotia,   be  it   nuted 

that    all    of    them    together    would    not    make 

one   of   the   t\i)ical   Canadian  lakes    or  rivers! 

But   largeness    is    not    necessarily    an    element 

in    beaut)-.       Ami    we   boast   in    Nova    .Scotia 

of    no    fewer    than    seven    hundred   and    sixty 

lakes  ! 

And   now  let   us    return    to    the    beautifid 

Annapolis  \  alk)    which    we    left    in    order   to 

p.ty  our  respects  to   Halifax  and  the  Atlantic  coast.     The  North  .Mountain,  running  from 

ISlomidon  lo  Digb)-  Gut,  screens  the  valley  from  the  raw  breezes  and  fogs  of    the   Bay 


If^ 


81'KIN'.   HKAUrV,   SA.NtiUINARIA,  AND 
UOO-TOOrH   VIOLliT. 


111:1 


til 


in-    ■" 


rnr.  i:astrrnmost  rjdge 

of  Funrly.  The  Soiuli  Mountain,  which  runs  the  whole  length  of  Nova  Scotia  i« 
parallel  with  the  North  Mountain  for  a  .iistance,  of  say  ei.^rhty  miles.  The  intervening 
valley  is  the  "garden  of  Nova  Scotia."     Its  western  half  is  the  "Annapolis  Valley."  and 


CHESTER. 


^1 


1 1      li> 


its  eastern  half  the  Cornwallis  Valley.  The  river  is  navigable  to  Bridgetown.  But 
hece,  as  elsewhere  along  the  shores  of  the  turbid  Bay  of  Fundy,  the  traveller  is  startled 
by  the  amazing  contrast  between  full-tide  and  low  water.  The  waters  rush  inwards 
With  BUperabundant  energx'  and  opulence,  filling  up  every  creek  and  brooklet,  till  you 
begin  to  fear  that  old  limits  are  to  be  overleapt.  Boats,  ships,  steamers  ride  gaily 
where  an  hour  or  two  before  they  were  s.juat  upon  a  brown  mud  bottom.  But  watch 
with  just  a  little  patience.  At  the  perilous  fullness  there  is  a  pause,  a  brief  period 
of  seeming  hesitation.  Then,  there  is  the  panic  rush  of  retreat,  until  cove  and  creek 
are  dry  again,  and  strong  swollen  rivers  are  mere  dribbling  brooks. 

Following  up  the  valley  we  find  little  towns  and  villages  and  hamlets,  churches 
an.l  schools;  richly  cultivated  fields,  Leagues  after  leagues  of  apple-trees;  orchards  with 
trees  old  as  the  French  regime;  orchards  newly  set  out;  some  apparently  dying  of  age 
or  from  lack  of  care;  the  great  majority  thrifty  and  doing  well.  No  sooner  is  one  of 
the  great  old  farms  subdivided  by  the  father  for  the  benefit  of  one  or  two  sons  than  a 
new  orchard  is  set  out,  even  before  a  house  or  barn  is  built.  The  farms  hug  the  sides 
of  the  steep  hills,  and  some  of  the  best  fruit  is  raised  on  these  sunny  slopes.  There 
nre  two  periods  of  the  year  when  this  apple  country  is  peculiarly  delightful,-in  June, 
when    the    trees    are    red    and    white    with    blossom-snowy   white    and  \-ose-red,  full  of 


OF    Tim   CONTINENT 


8f) 


l)romise  for  the  future  w'-'!  afforclin},r  alnuulant  present  delijrht ;  and  again  in  Septem- 
ber and  October,  when  u...  limbs  are  laden  with  green,  russet  and  gold. —when  thi 
orchards  laugh  with  abundance  and  the  air  is  literally  fragrant  with  the  aroma  of  gra- 
vensteins  and  pippins  and  the  nameless  varieties  in  which  the  fruit  growers  of  thi^. 
region  take  delight.  Apple  culture  now  is  an  important  industry  here;  and  in  prosper- 
ous years  farmers  realize   many   thousands  of  dollars  as  the   fruil  of  their  toil. 

Hridgetown,  Lawrencetown,  Paradise,  Kingston,  Middleton,  are  steadily  impioving 
in  appearance  and  growing  in  population  as  the  result  of  improved  agriculture  and  hor- 
ticulture.    VVii.MOT  Si'uiNos  are  noteworthy   for  the  health-giving  qualities  of  the  water. 

The  CouNWAi.Lis  Valley  presents  a  lovely  expanse  of  level  country,  between  the 
North  and  South  mountains.  It  has  been  largely  rescued  from  the  sea  and  transformed 
into  wondrously  fertile  territory.  The  Canard  and  the  Cornwallis  rivers,  once  navigaijh; 
streams,  have  shrunk  in  their  oozy  beds  into  mere  brooklets.  The  level  u|)lands  n(;ar 
the  dikelands  are  occupied  by  miles  and  miles  of  "streets,"  with  long  streams  of  hand- 
some, well-built  houses,  the  homes  of  thrifty  and  prosperous  farmers.  Spring  opens 
early,  and  summer  lingers  long  in  the  sheltered  villages  and  secluded  hamlets  of  Corn- 
wallis. The  South  Mountain  screens  it  from  the  fogs  and  chill  breezes  of  the  Atlantic, 
and  the  North  Mountain  serves  as  a  barrier  against  the  still  denser  fogs  of  the  Bay  of 
l^'undy.  One  of  the  finest  views  of  the  valley  is  to  be  enjoyed  by  climbing  up  North 
Mountain  near  its  termination  in  Cape  Blomidon.  At  your  feet  lie  the  little  town  of 
Canning  and  the  village  of  Pereau.x.  In  front  stretch  long  lines  of  "stniets"  with 
orchards  and  iarm-houses— churches  rising  here  and  there  where  population  is  thickest. 
Across  the  valley,  miles  southward,  is  Kextvillh,  nestling  among  the  brooks  that  rush 
down  the  gorges  of  the  South  Mountain,  a  pretty  and  tidy  town  almost  hidden  from 
sight  with  its  glorious  elms,  chestnuts,  locust  trees,  willows,  and  apple-orchards.  Farther 
to  the  left,  some  eight  miles,  is  Wolfville,  another  town  famous  for  its  elms  and 
orchards,  its  white  cottages,  educational  institutions,  and  its  wealth  of  legendary  and 
historic  associations.  I'retty  clusters  of  houses  dot  the  landscape  far  and  near,  while,  as 
your  eye  turns  eastward,  the  view  embraces  Grand  Pre  and  the  whole  scene  of  the  cul- 
mination of  the  Acadian  tragedy.  How  changed  this  valley  within  the  century  !  Then- 
appears  to  be  not  a  remnant  of  the  old  .'\c,-idians  in  a  place  once  so  dear  to  them, 
and  in  which  they  battled  so  bravely  with  the.-  sea. 

A  favourite  view  of  this  lovely  valley,  with  the  Basin  of  Minas,  is  from  Acadia 
College,  which  itself  occupies  a  commanding  site  on  rising  ground  at  Wolfville.  This 
view  embraces  the  "  Land  of  Evangeline,"  the  spot  which  Longfellow's  muse  has  con- 
secrated for  all  time.  Tlu'  Grand  Pre  'vhich  stretches  between  Wolfville  and  the 
Basin  of  Minas,  was  evidently  redeemeii  ijin  the  waves.  It  is  ilat,  perfectly  monoto- 
nous, except  when  dotted  with  cocks  u,  new-mown  ha),  or  with  great  loads  read)' 
to    be    hauled   to   u])Iand    barns.        Strongiv-built    dikes    keej)  back   the  sea,   except   when 


IHl 

I'll, 

IMi'l 

■ 

'  li't 

";). 

tlljl 

i 

m 

""» 

X 

Hlli 

• 

m 

m 

m 

■ 

!ii;i 

'"(I  • 

f 

i 

i 

ill 


I:  <1 

iMi 


»t 


■''•III 


"■•"•♦•--s-asiBMi* 


■it 


90 


THE    KASTERNMOSr  RIDGH 


If '5^ 


ii 


^  ■  J'* 


'I 

1 


>u 


('/■'   lllli   CONTINHNT 


9' 


tliu  Bay  of  I'lindy  ha«  hrrn  fillrrl  to  overflowing  by  a  mighty  gale.  Then  the  waters 
ovcrleaj)  all  l)arri<Ts— ol.l  dikes  and  luw  together,  and  tiic  flooded  lands  arc  rendered 
infertile  for  a  year  or  two,  lia|)()ily  these  great  invasions  do  not  occur  fn(|iiently,  not 
oftener  than   once;   in  im  or  lvvclv<'  years. 

Specimens  of  lii.- genuine  old  Jnnch  dike  are  few.  and  becoming  fiwer.  The  best 
sample  is  near  "  l,<»ng  I'.land,"  which  lies  between  Wolfvilie  and  Cape  Hiomidon,  and 
which  is  an  island  no  loiijn  i,  One  is  still  able  to  trace  the  fonmlations  of  the  Acadian 
ciiapel  .It  (.rantl  I're,  'I  here  are  grass-grown  h-  "ows  where  cellars  were  wont  to  be. 
Relics  are  picked   up   from  lime  to  time   which  uiged  to  the    .Acadian  perioil.      .Some- 

times coffins  are  disturbed  by  the  plougii.  Eartiienware  is  also  occasionally  found  which 
once  did  duty  on  the  Hide-*  of  the  cpiiet  but  stubborn  race  that  so  [lersistentiy  hated 
liritish  rule.  I'lie  most  interesting,  because  the  most  certain,  relics  of  the  olden  time 
are  these  long  rows  of   wilhnvs,   and  thest    gnarled  and  inos-,y  apple-trees. 

'Ihis  district  was  settled  early  in  the  .seventeenth  century  b)  immigrants  from  La 
Rochclle  and  its  vicinity,  Owing  to  the  fertility  of  the  soil  iuul  the  ahiiost  complete 
e.xemption  from  tli(;  ravagen  of  war  and  ti\e  burdiMis  of  i.ixatiou,  the  people  prospered 
greatly.  Tliey  were  on  lerm^  of  perfect  amity  with  the  Indians.  Their  loyally  to 
brance  was  .is  intense  an  their  h.itred  of  linglaml.  Indeed  the  French  authorities  took 
pains  to  cultivate  their  nynipathy.  Ilaidh  a  war  of  any  accotmt  was  w.iged  on  this 
continent  between  I'Vanw!  and  I'jigland  in  which  the  Acadians  failed  to  take  part  ;  and 
they  fought  with  the  Hdf.mu;rilicing  ardor  of  the  early  crusaders.  After  the  conquest 
of  Nova  Sct)lia  .md  iin  perin.inent  cession  to  Creat  Britain,  the  Acailians  refused  over 
and  over  again  to  lake  the  (,,iih  of  allegiance.  Living  on  Ib'itish  terrilor>,  they  claimed 
to  l)e  "neutrals."  Not  unly  woidd  they  not  take  up  arm,  for  the  King  of  C'.reat 
Britain  ;  the)'  could  not  !«■  tniHted  to  abstain  from  acts  of  hostility  against  him.  They 
sent  supplies  to  ih<'  hrenrh  at  Louisbnrg,  at  Fort  Beausejour,  and  elsewhere  when 
supplies  wen-  sorely  ner-ded  at  Annapolis  and  at  Halifa.x.  They  were  allowed  the  free 
exercise  of  their  religion  ;  they  were  not  to  be  molested  in  jjerson  or  property  so  long 
as  they  woulu  consent  to  be  mibjerts  of  the  British  crown.  But  it  was  here  that  their 
great  dithculty  lay.  Distance  in  linn;  and  spac(!  had  made  old  I'rance  dearer  than  ever 
to  their  hearts.  Their  colliHions  with  the  New  England  militia  and  other  representa- 
tives of  British  power  had  only  intensified  their  hatred  of  that  power.  They  were  in 
full  sympath)  with  the  Indian  tribes  in  all  jjarts  of  the  country,  and  entered  into  their 
plans  of  offense  against   the   British  settlers  an^.l  garrisons. 

Vicar-General  La  Loutre,  who  came  to  Acadia  in  1740,  was  a  man  of  indomitable 
perseverance  and  restlRSH  tMUerprise.  He  at  once  gained  the  confidence  of  the  Acadians 
and  the  Indians  ;  and  hi;,  grand  aim  was  to  keep  them  in  a  united  attitude  against  the 
English.  He  was  in  full  «ynipalhy  with  the  feeling  then  universal  in  Quebec— intense 
l()\alty  to  France,  and  a  determination  to  promote  French  interests  wherever  possible. 
(">3) 


:li;i 


H 


'  "    ! 

Lota:    ' 


1 


■.%. 


^j:^.% 
<'^, 


.% 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


m 

Ui 


IIIIIM    IIII2-5 

i^    1 2.2 
Ij^   iiiiiaa 

120 


IM 


1.4 


1.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STRUT 

WEBSTIR,N.Y.  I4S80 

(716)  873-4503 


k 


// 


^/ 


i? 


gi-ii 


<r 


\ 


qv 


K 
^ 


^^ 


i\ 


\ 


^\  <K%^ 


6^ 


'o 


't"...*.  ••^^ 


_.„ ^m.'^ 


^ 


C/j 


'/. 


^ 


]\j. 


m 


f;  * 


li 


y 


♦i.« 


92 


T//£  EASTERNMOST  RIDGE 


He  transgressed  all  bounds  of  prudence  in  the  measures  which  he  devised    and   carried 
out.     For  example.   Beaubassin.  a  pleasant  and  prosperous  village  of    i.ooo    inhabitants, 
all   Trench,  wa.   by    his   orders    utterly  deserted  and  then  burnt,  in  order  that  it  might 
not  pass  under  British  control.     This  act  will  explain  to  some    extext    the   spirit   which 
led    to    the    "expulsion"    of    tiie    Acadians    five    years    later.     La    Loutre's    orders  were 
earned  out  with  promptitude,  for  he  had  bands  of  Indians  at  his  back  who   were  glad 
to   punish  any  disobedience.       Several   years   before    the  expulsion,  the  people  of  River 
Canard.  Grand  Pre  and  Piziquid  sent  deputies  to  Governor  Cornwallis  asking  leave  to 
evacuate    the    Province,  and    intimating    their    determination    not    to    sow    their    fields 
Cornwallis   answered    them    in    the    most    conciliatory    terms,  and    in   perfect  good  faith. 
He  warned  them  against  La  Loutre.  who  had  ordered  the  savages  to  cut  off  those  that 
should    remain    loyal    to    England.      He  told    them    of   the   inevitable    ruin   which  would 
come  upon  them  should  they  persist  in  disobeying  their  lawful    king      They  were    now 
subjects  of  Great  Britain,  not  of    France;   no  one  could  possess  houses  or  lands  in  the 
Province  who  would  not  take  the    oath  of  allegiance,  and  those    who   left  the  Province 
would  have  to  leave    all    their  property  behind   them.       In  a  few  weeks   deputies   from 
the   same  places   appeared  again  before   the   Governor,  asking   permission   to  leave   the 
Province.       Cornwallis  replied  that  whenever  peace  was  restored  he  would  furnish   pass- 
ports  to   all  who  wished  to   go;   but  at  present   he   refused,  because  the    moment  they 
stepped  beyond    the    border   they    would    be    required    to   take  up   arms    against   Great 
Bntam.      He  assured  them  that  their  determination  to  remain  in  antagonism    to    Great 
Bntam  gave  him  great  pain.        He  praised  their  virtues  and  their  exen,ption  from  vice. 
He  added:    "This  Province  is  your  country;    you  and  your  fathers  have   cultivated  it  • 
naturally    you    ought    yourselves    to    enjoy   the    fruits   of   your   labour.       Such   was   the 
des.re  of  tlie   king,   ot,r  master.       You   know  that  we    have    followed  his    orders       You 
know  that  we    have    done   everything    not  only  to    secure    you  the   occupation    of  your 
lands,  but    the   ownership   of    them  forever.       We    have   given    you    also    everv  possible 
assurance   of   th,.    enjoyment   of  your  religion,   and  the  free   and  public   exercise   of  the 
Roman  Catholic  faith."      He  pointed  out  to  them  the  immense  advantages  they  would 
have  m  the  large  markets  that  would  be  opened  to  them,  and  of  which  they  would  for 
many  years    have    the    monopoly,    for  they  possessed    the   only    cultivated   lands   in    the 
Provmce.        "  In    short,  we    flattered    ourselves    that  we  would    make    you    the    happiest 
people  in  the  world." 

Connvalliss  successor.  Governor  Hobson,  was  not  more  successful  than  Cornwallis 
m  wmnmg  the  Acadians.  La  Loutre  and  his  Indians  had  their  affections  and  their 
fears  as  well.  Disaffection  prevailed  among  them  to  such  an  extent  that  they  refused 
to  sell  wood  and  provisions  to  the  British  soldiers  stationed  among  them.  The 
infection  of  disorder  and  discontent  extended  to  the  German  colony  in  Lunenburg 
Three   hundred    Acadians,  refusin.r    work 


good   \»^j^os   at    Halifax,  and  disregard 


ing 


n 


OF  THE  CONTINENT 


93 


the  Government's  orders,  crossed  over  to  Beausejour  to  work  under  La  Loutre,     Here, 

then,  we   have    the   explanation    of   the    ever    memorable  tragedy  of    1755.      France  and 

England  were  contending  for  supremacy  in  America.     It  was  the  death-grapple  of  giants. 

The  Acadians   for  forty  years  had  been  un- 

der    British    sway,    yet    refused    to    become 

citizens    and    availed    themselves    of    every 

opportunity  of  promoting  the  interests,   real 

or   supposed,    of    France.       They    built    licr 

forts;    they   fed    her   soldiers;    they    fought 

her  battles.       The    British    authorities    knew 


Iv^.EicijUii  5S* 


111, 
'n. 


.i;!i 


III) 
Jiii 

■li.i 


MARINt:  SUP  AND   DOCKS,  VAKMOL'TU, 


that  a  French  conquest  of  Acadia  would  be  hailed  with  exultation  by  the  Acadians 
throughout  the  whole  territory.  Looking  at  the  matter  from  the  New  England  and 
British  point  of  view,  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  that  decisive  steps  were  taken. 
Harsh  and  deplorable  as  the  measure  was,— it  was  war.  It  was  a  piece  of  public 
policy  designed  to  ensure  the  possession  of  Nova  Scotia  by  Great  Britain.  It  was  one 
of  the  steps  in  the  great  drama  of  concjuest  in  the  New  World.  That  the  British 
were  not  moved  by  greed  for  the  fair,  rich  lands  of  the  Acadians  is  abundantly  proved 
by  the  fact  that  Grand  Pre  lay  desolate  for  five  years  after  the  expulsion,  and  that 
the  other  depopulated  districts  were  some  of  them  nine  or  ten  years  without  a  British 
settler.  Seven  thousand  Acadians  were  induced  to  leave  all  they  possessed  in  the 
nch    old    settlements  of  Acadia  in    order  to  be    under  the  French    flag.       Their  houses 


m 

iii,i 


"■H 


THE  EAiirERNMOST  RIDUE 


•  'i 


4ii 


ih 


I 


I 


wen-  either  h.irni  l.y  ilu-  Indians  or  allowed  to  go  to  ruin;  and  their  fields  were  left 
uncultivated.  'I'h,.  suffering  caused  by  this  voluntarj-  migration  ^vas  very  -reat.  The 
sacrifices  made  by  the  t-migrants  were  incalculable.  The  fact  that  theAaulians  pre- 
ferreil  such  ,.erilH  ',m\  deprivations  to  citizenship  under  the  British  flag,  enables  us  to 
view  the  ••  IvspulMon  of  the  Acadians"  in  its  true  light. 

During  tht'  Hpi-ing  and  summer    of   .755,  the    Acadians    were    required    to   give    up 
their  fir.-ann.,     Symptoms  of  uneasiness  and  dissatisfaction  were  noticed    amonj    them 
The   commanding    nflkTr   at    bort    lulward    reported  that   they   had    acte.l   towards    him 
w.th   "great  In.ol.MU'.-,"   leading  him  to  believe   that  they    had    secret    intelligence    of    an 
<-xpected   French  invasion.       bifte.-n  representatives  of  the  Acadians  appeared  in  Halifa.x, 
on   th..    :,rd  juh,   before    (iovernor   Lawrence    and  his   council,   when   their  faults,  errors, 
true  position,   advantages    and   duties  were    fully  explained   to   them.       They   were   asked 
to  take  the  oath   of  allegiance,   but  after  much    deliberation    they    declined.      They   were 
told  that  they  would   henceforth   be    regarded   not  as    subjects    of  the   British    King,   but 
of  the    King  of    |.,..,n.<.,   and  as  such   they  would  be   treated.      The  council   then   resolved 
that  th.-   .\ca.lian.    .hould   be    ordered   to    send    new  deputies    to    Halifax  with   their  de- 
cision,  whether  they  would   take   the  oath   or  not;  and  that   none  who   refused  to  take  it 
should  be  afterwardH  permitt..d  to  do  so,  but  "that   eff<-ctual  measures  should  be  taken 
to  remove  all   such    rncusants  out  of  the    I'rovinc..."      This  decision   was   cnveved  to  the 
delegates,  who,   b.T.uning    alarmed,   offered   to  take   the  oath.       '\^^.^■  w-r,..   however,   n<,t 
permitted  to  do  ho,   but  wen:  kept   as  prisoners  on   .St.   (-...nrge's  Island  in    Halifax    har- 
bour.      Governor    Lawrence    confern^d   with   A.lmirals   Hoscawen   .md   Mostyn.  and  both 
agreed  with   him   that   it   was  time  the   French  should   be  n-ouinnl   io  take  the  oath  or  to 
leave  tiu-  country.      This   w..s  on   the    ,4th   July.      On   the   .5th  July,  deputies  can.e  fro., 
the   brench   in  Annapolis,  intimating  their  determination  to  tak.;  no  "new  oath."     Covrr- 
nor  Lawrence   plainly   intimated   to  them  what  would    be  the  n'suit.      He  asked   th.-m   t.. 
reconsider  the   mailer  till    Monday,   for  if  once   they  refused  the  oath,   thev  should    ha\,. 
"o  other  opporlunih    ..f  t.tking  it.     On   Mond.ay.  July  28th,  the  full  council  met  with  the 
Acadian    deputies,   all    .jf     whom    made    substantially    the    same    report.-that    they    had 
already  taken   the  <|tialified  oath  of  fidelity,  and  that  they  would  take  none  other.     The 
whole  bod\    of  delegates  were   called    before    the    council,  au.l    the    case    again    careftdly 
explained    t..   liu-m ;    but   they  all    peremptorily  refu.sed  th.:   oath.     The    Acadians   knew 
what   they  were  doing;  and   they  did   it  deliberately.     They  risked  all-and  lost 

'Jh.'  decision  nf  ih,.  authorities  was  taken.  Arrangements  were  made  to  remove 
the  Acadians  ab<.ut  the  Isthmus,  in  what  is  now  the  county  of  Cumberland.  The  turn 
of  those  at  MinUH  was  to  come  next;  and  those  in  Annapolis  and  Yarmouth  wen-  to 
follow.  Colonel  Whmlow  was  in  command  at  Minas.  His  instructions  were  to  collect 
the  people  and  pliue  them  on  boanl  the  transports  which  the  government  would  fur- 
nish.    Two   lhoii-,and    pgrsuns  were    to   be   removed:    live   hundred   to    North   Carolina 


OF   THE   CONTINENT 


95 


one  thousand  to  X'irginii :  fivn  hnndrod  to  Maryland.  They  were  to  be  sent  thus  far 
away,  to  prevent  their  easy  return.  One  thousand  were  to  Ix;  removed  from  An- 
napolis, and  to  be  scattered  thus  — three  hundred  each  to  Philadeipiiia  and  Connec- 
ticut,  and    two    hunch-ed    each    to    New    York    and    Boston.      The    reason   liu-y   were  not 


WW 


llai 


siiu])!)'    sent    o\er   the    border,   was    ex- 
plained   by    Governor  Lawrence  :    "  As 
«  their   numbers    amount    to    near    se\en 

thousand  persons,  the  drixint,^  them  off, 
with  leave  to  ,sto  whither  they  pleased,  would  doubtless  have  strengthened  Canada  wiili 
so  considerable  a  number  of  inhabitants,  and  such  as  are  able  to  bear  arms  must 
have  been  immediately  employed  in  annoying  this  and  tlie  neighbouring  colonies.  To 
prevent  such  an  inconvenience  it  was  judged  a  necessary  and  the  only  practicai)le 
measure  to  divide  them  among  the  colonies,  where  they  may  be  of  some  use,  as  most 
of  them  are  stro-ig.  healthy  people,  and  they  may  become  profitable  and,  it  is  possible, 
in  time,  faithful  subjects." 

The  effort  to  remove  the  Acadians  from  the  istlimus,  and  what  is  now  known  as 
the  New  Brunswick  side  of  the  Bay,  proved  a  total  failure ;  but  a  large  number  ot 
their  dwellings   were  destroyed. 


4: 


«'! 


a?' 


i  '1 

1  111 

■■      'll' 


^tTri»r-i!inTiiii»irBi[pti 


I' 


! 


Ml' 


f! 


'1    A 


96 


77//;"  EA^TIiRNMOST  R/DGli 


Around  Minas  Rasin  the  deed  was  done  secretly  nnd  thomncrhly.  On  the  5th 
September,  1755.  in  obedience  to  the  summons  of  Colonel  Winslow,  the  p.;ople  of 
Grand  Prd,  Minas,  and  River  Canard,  "both  old  mon  and  yoimir  men  and  lads  of  ten 
years  of  age  "  assembled  at  the  Grnnd  Pre  Church.  "  to  hear  what  His  Majesty  had 
authorized  him  to  communicate  to  them.  '  At  first,  four  hundred  responded  to  the  call. 
These  were  frankly  told  that  in  consequence  of  th'sir  refusal  to  take  the  oath  of  allegi- 
ance, all  their  property,  o.vcept  their  money  ami  houscjioid  ^oods,  was  forfeited  to  the 
crown,  and  they  themselves  were  to  be  removed  from  the  Provinces.  They  were  to 
remain  prisoners  till  placed  on  board  the  vesseln  which  were  to  bear  them  away. 
Families  would  i)e  conveyed  togetiier.  About  two  liuiull'ed  were  to  be  brought  from 
Piziquid  (now  Windsor),  and  the  total  number  to  bu  umbarked  at  Grand  Pre  a'mounted 
to   i,y23  persons. 

On  the  30th  August,  Winslow  writes  to  the  Lhut-Governor  that  the  crops  are 
down,  but  not  housed  on  account  of  the  weather. -=lhut  the  people  think  the  soldiers 
have  come  to  remain  with  them  all  winter.  "  AUhou,;h  it  is  a  disagreeable  duty  we  are 
put  upon.  I  am  sensible  it  is  a  necessary  one,"  Thu  noldiers,  who  were  taken  Into 
confidence,  had  to  swear  an  oath  of  secrecy.  On  llui  41I1  September,  "al).  the  people 
were  quiet  and  very  busy  at  their    harve..t." 

On    the    5th    September,  Winslow    was   very    Luny    from  early  dawn.       He   ordered 
"the   whole    camp    to    lie    upon    tlieir    arms    this    d.iy,"       "At  3    in    the   afternoon    the 
French    inhabitants   apDeared    at    the   chm-ch    at    Gr.iud    Pre.    418    of   their   best    men." 
Twenty   of    tins  number  were  allowed  to  go  back  to  th'-lr  friends  at  Canard   and  other 
places  and  tell  them  what  had  come  to  pass.     GuartU  were  doubled.     Regulations  were 
made    to    ensure    the    safety    of    the    prisoners,  and,  addn    Winslow,  "Thus    ended    the 
memorable  5th  of  September,  a  day  of  great  fatigue  ftiul  trouble."     Millers  were  allowed 
to  keei)  their  mills  at  work.     The  prisoners  in  the  church  were  fed  by  members  of  their 
own  families,      Winslow  did  his  work  "without  any  nceldent  to   our   own    people   or   to 
the   inhabitants."     The  officers    had    to  be  on  the  alt-ri.  fur.   we  are  told,  "The  soldiers 
hate  them  [the  Acadians]  and  if  they  can  find  a  |M-etenca  to  kill  them,  they  will."     The 
women  are  reported  to  have  been  remarkably  calm,  alniOMt  indifferent.     On  the  9th.  an 
ominous  stir  being  noticed  among  the  prison.-rs,  Colonul   Winslow  tes.olved  that  fifty  of 
the    young.T    m.M,    should    be    pLii    aboanl    each    of    ihe    fiv,;    transports  in  the  bay  and 
should  be  under  guard.     The  prisoners  w.^re  drawn  up  hIx  deep,  the  young  men  to  the 
left.     When  ordered  to  march  to  tlie  vessels,  they  HOKWfired  tiley  would  not  go  without 
their  fathers.      Winslow  told  them  that  "\o"  was  a  word  he  did  not    understand,   "for 
the  king's  command  was  absolute  and  should   be    absojutt-lv    obeyed."     He    ordered    the 
troops    to    fi.x    bayonets    and    advance    towards    the    priMonefs,      He    marked   o-t  2.1  and 
ordered  tiiem  to  proceed.      He  look  hold  of  one  "and  bi.l  march.     He  obeyed  -ind  the 
rest  followed,  though  slowly,  and   went  praying,  singing  uiiU   cn/ing,  being  met  uy  the 


Mil 


OF   Till-:   CONTINENT 


97 


He  orriered 
ftertioon  the 
•  best  men." 
d  and  other 
Illations  were 
i  ended  the 
were  allowed 
bers  of  their 
)eople  or  to 
The  soldiers 
/  will."     The 

the  9th,  an 
that  fifty  of 
the  bay  and 

men  to  the 
:  fio  without 
rstand.  "  for 
ordered    the 

n"t  lA  ami 
Ved  'irid  the 

met  by  the 


«vomen  and  children  all  the  way  (which   is  one  and  a  half  miles)  with  jrreat  lamentations, 
upon  tneir  knees  praying."     '■  The  ice  being  broke,"  as   Winslow   puts  it.   it   was  easier 


b 


to  induce  the  rest  to  proceed.  Two  hun- 
dred and  tliirty  were  embarked  tliat  day. 
Winslow  himself  speaks  of  it  as  a  "scene 
of  sorrow."  The  vessels  dropped  down 
stream.  Provisions  were  carried  on  board  by  their  friends,  and  as  many  visiiors  as  the 
boats  could  carry  were  allowed  to  come  and  go.  On  the  nth,  twenty  more  were  sent 
on  board.  There  was  a  period  of  tedious  and  anxious  waiting,  week  after  week,  until 
the  wet,  stormy  and  chill  October  days  came,  when  tents  were  but  poor  protection  for 


"^'i! 


WW 

llil 


as- 


nil 


98 


THE  EASTERXMOST  RIDGE 


i'' 


^1  .  ^ ;  !i 

^1      f:^ 

the  soldiers,  am)  Winslow    was  almost  in 
despair.      More    transports   were    ordered, 
;-.y;  and  .were    expected,    but    tiie)    were    des- 

perately behind  time.  Disasters  here 
and  there  interfered  with  carefully  ma- 
tured plans.  Couriers  and  expresses  made  the  best  speed  they  could  between  Halifax 
and  Cornwallis  and  Chei<,mecto  ;  but  bad  roads,  rough  seas,  contrary  winds,  often 
causi.'d  delays.  The  poor  Acadians  still  tiiought  that  it  was  only  a  scheme  to 
frighten  tlunn  into  taking  the  oath  of  allegiance.  The  longer  the  stay  th.e  less  likely 
it  seemed  to  iliem  liiat  they  were  to  be  torn  from  the  land  tiiey  loved  so  well.  On 
the  6th  October,  Colonel  Winslow  writes,  with  unconscious  pathos:  "Even  now  I  could 
not  persua<le  the  people  I  was  in  earnest."  On  the  7th,  24  of  the  French  young  men 
made  liieir  escape  off  two  of  the  vessels  —  how,  nobody  could  tell.  On  the  8th, 
Winslow  tells  us  that  he  began  to  embark  the  inhabitants,  who  went  off  very  sullenly 
and  unwillingly,  liie  women  in  great  distress,  carrying  their  children  in  their  arms; 
others  carrying  their  decrepit  parents  in  their  carts,  and  all  their  goods,  moving  in 
great  confusion,— a  scene  of  woe  and  distress."  In  course  of  a  few  da)s  twenty-two 
of  the  twent\-four  who  had  escaped  out  of  the  vessels  came  back.  Two  refusing  to 
surrender  had  been  killed  by  the  soldiers.  On  the  27th  the  preparations  for  setting 
sail  were  completed  :  the  Piziquid  contingent  of  about  a  thousand  souls  was  combined 
with  the  people  from  Grand  Pre  and  Gaspereau.  It  is  easier  to  imagine  than  to  de- 
scribe the   scene  that  must  have  been  presented,  as  the  nine  transports,  convoyed  by  a 


OF    /■///:•    CONTINENT  9,, 

man-of-war.  dropped  don-n  Minns  Basin,  out  of  sight  of  the  lovely  Gaspereau  Vail.) 
and  the  bold  headland  of  Hlomfdon.  and  Cape  Split,  and  all  the  islands  and  hills 
and  famdiar  shorc.s  of  home  and  native  land.  More  transports  were  need.'d  for 
Wmslow  had  six  hundred  Acadians  on  ius  hands,  collected  at  River  Canard  an,l 
Fereaux.and  more  distant  localities.  Weeks  lengthened  into  months  of  weary  wailing- 
and  it  was  not  till  the  3olh  of  December  that  "  i'hins  Osgood"  was  able 'to  report 
that   "the  last  of  the   Frencli   sailed   tliis    afternoon." 

The  whole  number  of  hous.s  destroyed  in  this  district.  255;  barns,  276;  mills.  ,,  • 
church,  ,.  Total  people  shipped  auay.  z..^..  Only  two  deaths  by  violence  occurred' 
Ihe  force  under  Winsiow  numbered  y.o.  The.se  uu.,  wen.  with  hardly  an  e.xceplion 
New  Englanders.  Xo  doubt  OKI  l^n.^dand  approved  of  what  was  done  ;  bu,  ih..  renu.val 
was  devrsed  and  carried  o„t  by  hard-h..aded  New  llnglandens.  In  Annapolis  n.any 
escaped  to  the  woods;  but  ultimately  upwards  of  eleven  hundred  were  placed  on  boar.l 
transports  and  sent  away.  One  of  tlie  vessels,  havin.^^  326  Acadians  on  board,  was 
.seized  by  them  in  the  Hay  of  Fundy  and  taken  into  St.  John,  whence  the>  made  good 
their  escape. 

The  vessels  employed  in  transporting  the  Acadians  numbered  in  all  seventeen  ;  and 
the  persons  removed  were  about  three  thousan<l.  These  peace-loving  and  gregarious 
people  were  scattered    far   and   wide  among  an   alien    race   who   were    ignorant    of   their 


Ml 


i;!i 


•111 
m 
11:1 

\M 
lid 


"■•ate-'  »■ 


VALLKV  OK   THE    GASPEREAU. 


^d 


language  and  hated  their  religion.      They  were  snatched  away  from  scenes  of  loveliness 
and  plenty  to  be  Hung  as  beggars  upon  the   cold  charity  of  people  who  wished  to  havu 


ft?' 


('°4) 


IWiMWiW 


j;'K 


i 


I? 

■JH    ■?  "1,1 

I' 


■d' 


i . 


*■•■ 


100 


7///i   EASTERNMOST  RIDCE 


not  ,n,  to  do  w,th  them.  It  is  estimated  that  at  least  two-thir.ls  worked  their  way 
baci<.  some  .n  a  few  months  after  their  expulsion,  some  after  an  exile  of  nearly  fifteen 
y^n^s.  Before  the  end  of  the  century  all  the  Acadians  were  reported  as  'wholly 
Bnfsh  subjects,  and  enfrely  changed  from  their  fornu,.-  sentiments."  They  were 
"among  the   most   faithful  and   happy  subjects  of   His   Majesty" 

The  expulsion  of  the  Acadians  was  but  an  episode  in  a  great  epic  of  which  the' 
Amer,can  contment  and  Western  Europe  were  the  arena,  l-Vance  and  England  were 
contendmg  for  supremacy  in  the  New  World.  The  destinies  of  unborn  nations  were 
mvo  ved  For  England  the  outlook  in  .755  was  dark  enough.  The  shattered  remains 
of  Hraddocks  dl-fated  expedition  were  entering  .  ..iladel^:,ia  about  the  same  time  that 
V\  mslow  was  gathering  the  Acadians  to  the  little  chapel  at  Minas.  The  sad  Acadian 
episode  is  thus  explained:   we  do  not  say  that  it  is  justified. 

The  story  of  Ev.....um.:  has  made  the  region  classic.  Longfellow  had  never 
v.s.ted  Nova  Scotia;  and  his  ideas  of  the  topography  of  the  Masin  of  Minas  were  ob- 
tamed  at  second-hand,  kit  the  picture  he  draws  is  fairly  accurate 

The  railway  now  passes  through  the  Grand  Pre.  and  the  Grand  Prd  station  is  near 
the  s,t.  of  d.e  historic  chapel.  As  a  tribute  to  the  ,a.n.  ioa,  the  engines  bear  such 
names  as  "  Evangeline,"  •'  Benedict."  "  Basil."  and  "  Gabriel." 

The  Gasp.reau    River  flows  into  the  Minas  Basin  within  easy  sight  of   Grand  Pr^ 
It  was  at  a  point  a  short  distance  up  from  its  mouth  that    the   transports    received  the 
weepmg  Acadians.   and   still  a  little   farther  inland  they  sought   sh..k..r  when   the  rough 
autumnal  gales  swept  down  upon  the  basin,  churning  its  waters  into  spray.       The  tide 
rushes  up   the   Gaspereau  with  great  force  for  four  or  f.ve  miles.        l.oHowing  the  river 
:n    .ts    mnumerable    windings,  you    are   led    into    the    boson,  of    the    South    Mountain 
KKlges  nse  high  right  and  left,  with  space  enough  between  to  allow  of  a  succession  of 
l.msperous  farms  on  each    side    the    river.       There,  sheltered    fron,    every  stormy  wind 
.^n  .osome     m   orchards,  stand   the    neat   white    cottages    of  a  happy  and  peaceful  peas: 
antry.      The  stream  becomes  more  rapid  and  its  banks  more  picturesque  as  you  ascend 
us  course.     Sa  mon  pools  abound.     By  and  by  the  stream  gracefully  leaps  some  twenty 
f<-et  down  a  ledge  of  rock.       The  fall  is  pretty,  and  when  the  river  is  full  with  spring 
or  autumn  rams,  the  music   of  it  is  borne  upon  the  bree.e  for  n,iles.       The  source  oi 
the  nver  .  a  series   of  forest  lakes  near  the  height  of  land  where   the  misty  Atlantic- 
sends  up  .ts  clou  s  to  unburden    themselves  ere  they  spread  their  kindly  shadows  over 
the  Cornwa  hs  Valley.       Here.  too.  as  far  up  as  the  fall,  the  feet  of  the  Acadians  trod 
and    t  e.r   han  s    toiled.       The    trees    they   planted    are    growing  still,    the   fields  they 
..leared  y.eld  abunch-nt    crops,  and  the    dikes  they  built  resist  the  invading  tides       ThI 
traveller  sees   so   much   to   attract  attention  along  the   usual  routes,  that  he    is   aot  to 
over!. ok  the    Gaspereau  Vallev  :    but  ,e.  Hin,    come  here  for  a  picture  of  rural  comfort 


and    beauty,— sheltered   from 


the    North    and  West 


wui 


ids    by  the    bleak    rid 


^e    01    the 


OF   TJHi   CONTINENT 


iOl 


ced   their  way 

nearly  fifteen 

d   as  "wholly 

They    were 

of  which  the 
England  were 
nations  were 
cred  remains 
me  time  that 
sad   Acadian 

vv  had   never 
nas  wtsre  ob- 

ation  is  near 
:;s  bear  such 

Grand  Prd 

received  the 

1   tile   rough 

The  tide 

ng  the  river 

Mountain, 
uccession  of 
tormy  wind, 
aceful  peas- 
you  ascend 
Dme  twenty 
with  spring 
:  source  of 
ty  Atlantic 
idows  over 
vidians  trod 
fields  they 
des.       The 

is  apt  to 
al  comfort 
yre    oi'   the 


& 


■.vm  CoQPtj^^ 


.MOITII    or    TIIK    (lASl'KRKAC,     AM)    (,KAM)     I'kK, 


Horton    hills,  and   from   the   South  and   East  by  th,.    lofty  forest-crowned    ridges  of  the 
South  Mountain. 

The  peace  and  loveliness  of  the  present  ca-w  s  one  back  by  way  of  tragic  contrast 
to  that  morning  of  F(.l;ruary  ,o,  .747,  when  under  cover  of  darkness  and  a  furious 
snow-storm  a  band  of  346  Frenchmen,  pounced  suddenly  upon  the  Eng'  .h  garrison  of 
47c  men  quartered  among  the  houses  yonder  The  attack  was  wholly  .mexpected. 
The  English  were  sleeping  in  fancied  security.  Their  assailants  were  completely  suc- 
cessful, and  the  decimated  garrison  agreed  to  march  off  to  Annapolis  Royal,  leaving 
70  killed  and  69  prisoners.  The  French  lost  only  7  or  8.  Happily,  battles,  surprises, 
victories,  expatriations  have  long  been  unknown  in  these  valleys.  The  on.y  strug- 
gles are  with  the  forces  of  nature  ;    and  all  the  victories  are  those  of  peace. 

The  North  Mountain  is  a  mighty  rampart  of  trap-rock,  running  all  the  way  from 
Digby  Gut  to  Cape  Blomidon,  at  an  almost  uniform  elevation  of  450  feet.  The  rough 
waters  of  the  Bay  of  Fundy  have  been  beating  against  this  great  barrier  for  unknown 
ages,  and  the  results  are  many  picturesque  coves,  bold  bluffs,  bleak  headlands,  beetling 
crags.     Here  and  there,  wherever  convenient  shelter  offers,  fishing  hamlets  cling  to  the 


1*1 


:;ti 


!):i 


'III 


Si9' 


»i» 

rill 

^;.i  i 

*lte' 

4 


II 

!1 


lU2 


w 


u 


I-  8'  ■   » 3"' 

I     *:, 


TUJi   liASTERAMOUT  RttH.li 


ihtis  or  nestle  in  tile  coves,  nfferinj;  in  tlie  hottest  ilays  of  summer,  relreais  cool 
•  iioiijrli  to  satisfy  ones  utmost  wish  lor  i)racinjr  bree/c^s.  As  ilie  tide  rolls  up,  anv;ry 
and  brown,   it  cools  the  air  which   rushes  in   with   the   tide  at   half  ,i  j^ale. 

Hlomidon  has  been  happily  compareil  to  the  handle  of  a  Iiiil;<-  wallviny-stick  :  ih(; 
North  Mountain  beinn;  the  stick,  and  the  v\\^\  ,,f  the  curved  handle  b.inc^  Cape  Split, 
brom  a  distance  ii  .ippe.irs  as  if  juttin;^  into  the  liasin  .it  a  sh.up  .inL;le  ;  but  the  e.\- 
|»lor.  r  (i"uls  that  it  curves  i;racefull\'  down  Minas  iihanncl  till  it  terminates  in  tiie  curious 
puuiacles  of  Cai.e  Split.  Thi'  boldest  part  of  i^loinidon  is  a  strand  sandstoni'  cliH, 
about  5ui)  feet  hinh,  and  a  (piarter  of  a  mile  in  len.i^nh.  I'arth(  r  on  comes  the  columnar 
trap  rock,  beetling  anil  d.irk.  but  relie\cd  i)_\  occasional  intermi.xture  of  bri.t;ht  red. 
.sandstontf.  Liule  rills  tumble  down  heri'  and  there  from  the  summit,  and  a  constaii': 
(om-se  of  disinteirration  is  .^oint;  on.  b'.irlher  alonj;  tlie  curve  the  hill  is  less  steep. 
L.iiid  and  w.iter  come  to  a  kindlier  meeting.  '!  lie  explorer  steps  ashore  .ind  finds  rare 
lerns,  and  n'joices,  perhaps,  in  emeralds,  at^ates,  ami  amethyst.s.  Inilied,  lUoinidon  every 
spriuij;  drops  from  his  crown  (,or  out  u[  his  numerous  pockets)  m.iin  brit;lu  and  precious 
thin,ij;s,  th--  choice  siiecimens  fallin.L;  to  the  lot  of  the  (;arliest  searchers.  (it-ms  from 
i51omiilon  once  sparkled  in  the  crown  of  I-rance ;  and  it  is  <|uite  likel)-  that  nothi!-,j,r 
more  valuable  was  <lisco\ired  in  the  sixteenth  century  than  m,i\  be  stumbled  upon 
now,  il  you  come  aloiiLi  sufficiently  early  after  the  frost-,  of  winter  antl  ihi;  storms 
of  spriiiL;  h,i\c  done  iheir  work.  As  you  ;ipproach  Cape  Split  the  tide  becomes  more 
r.ipid  and  there  are  eddies  and  whirlpools  that  ilemand  careful  seam.uisliip.  A  Pro- 
fessor oi  .\c;sdia  CoIIcl;",  and  two  or  three  companions,  were  lost  lure  sonu  years  a^o 
throu,L;h  imaulious  sailin.L;-.  Sudden  ousts  often  descenu  from  the  hills  on  both  sitles 
ol   a   narrow    ch.unie!   which    rims  betweeti    I'.lomidon   and   llje    I'arrsboro'  sliore. 

(ireat  masses  ol  (  londs  atid  of  foe  often  roll  up  this  ch.miul  mkX  over  the  summits 
of  the  mountain,  carrsin^  one  back  in  ima^in.ition  to  the  period  not  very  ancient. 
,Ljeolosricall\ ,  when  a  lui.i;<-  volcano  was  .utive  here;  when  the  air  was  .larkened  with 
ashes  and  scoria-;  when  the  Cobecpiid  hills  and  the  South  .Mountain  eclioed  the 
thunder  ol  volcanic  explosions;  when  mii,dity  streams  of  lava  llowed  westward,  we  can- 
not tell  how  many  miles.  \'olcanic  .iction  is  |.lainl\  visible  past  Di^bx  Xeck,  and  in 
the  beautilul  basaltic  cliffs  of  Uri.n-  Island,  Mountains  orow  old  .nul  \  ield  to  decay, 
and  niouudon  and  the  North  Mountain  are  no  cNception  to  the  rule.  The  face  of  that 
noblest  of  our  sea-clills  is  d(:eply  starred  and  furrowed  by  torrents.  The  frosts,  melting- 
snows,  and  scouri^im;  rains  loosen  vast  ipi;intiti(-s  of  debris,  which,  tumbling  to  the  base, 
the  tides  sweep  awa\ .  Yet  the  beaut\  of  the  Cape  remains.  "The  dark  basaltic  wall, 
crowned  with  thick  woods,  the  terrace  of  amygdaloid,  with  a  luxuriant  t^rrowth  of  light 
tureen  shrul)s  and  youm;  trees  thai  rapitlly  sprine-  up  in  its  rich  and  moist  surface,  the 
precipice  of  bright  red  sandstone,  always  cleat,  and  fresh  and  contrasting  strongly  with 
the  trap  above  and  with  the  trees   and    bushes   that    straggle    down    its    sides    and    nod 


trt:als    cool 
up,  aiiKry 


<;/■•  ////:'  LON'/7\/-:\r 


KJ,? 


r 

1. 

5 

^ 

^Vja-U  <«^HHI 

'■m2  ' 

^■%'*. 


at 


.,4^* 


.Vn-v* 


.♦  \ 


-S»'i.,_    ^     'tf*^i. 


'M 


nil 


•  I,! 


^ 


-\ 


CAPF.  m.(jM:r)ON,  mimas  basin. 


:%^^«*'. 


ovet"  its  ravines,  constiiiiic  a  com- 
bination of  foniw  and  coli:)iiis 
rqualiy  strikinv,  il  seen  in  llic 
ilistance  from  tin-  Kili>  oi  i  ior- 
ton,  on  the  sliori'  ni  i'airslioio', 
or  mort-  ncarlx  from  the  sea,  or 
from  tlu;  stonx  licacii  al  its  base." 
Tile  best  i(nv  of  Cape  Split 
is    from    Baxter's    Harbour,    about 

l\v(.>  miles  distant.  In  the  foreground  is  a  beautiful  waterfall,  some  forty  feet  high, 
lumbiing  irdu  a  deep,  dark  gorge,  uhicii  is  overhung  l)\  liuge  m.isses  nl  trap-rock. 
Across  the  waters  of  the  semi-circular  ba)-  the  oddly  isolated  peaks  ot  Cape  Split  rise 
out  of  the  water,   and  if  the  water  is  still  are  mirrored  on   its   surface. 


im 


n 


At 


nil  ' 

'  '4- 


'mirmmnt  v  fffii|jin|iit>)j||n 


itr 


i  .      «. 


11  ^. 


104 


'////■    EASTERNMOST  RIDGE 


s. 
en 


We  are  now,  as  Indian  legends  tell,  amid  the  scenes  where  the  wonder-working 
Gi.ooscAP,  the  semi-divine  Medi.Ttor  of  the  Micmacs,  displayed  his  power.  He  was  the 
Indian's  friend,  and  was  always  ready  to  help  those  wiio  would  receive  his  counsels. 
He  was  e.valted  over  peril,  sickness  and  death,  iitul  was  the  enemy  of  the  magician 
Minas  Basin  was  his  beaver  pond,  dammed  up  hy  Mjomidon  and  Cape  Split,  which  th 
(the  legend  says)  stretched  across  to  the  Parrshoro'  shore.  As  the  dam  was  flooding 
the  whole  valley,  Giooscap  swung  the-  barrier  out  of  the  way  and  pushed  it  into  its 
present  position.  In  his  conflict  witii  the  great  Heaver,  he  flung  at  him  huge  fragments 
of  rock  which  have  been  changed  into  the  I'ivc  Islands,  Spencer's  Island  is  Glooscap's 
overturned  kettle.  .-Ml  the  Acadian  land  was  ilcar  to  him.  He  could  do'  wonders  for 
the  people,  providing  abundance  of  fish  and  game,  The  powers  of  evil  at  one  time 
came  to  overthrow  his  great  wigwam  and  put  an  end  to  his  reign.  But  h-j  sent  a 
mighty  storm,  which  quenched  their  camp-fires,  ;uul  then  a  bitter  frost,  which  caused 
them  all  to  perish  in  the  forests.  Tiie  ways  of  l.c.ists  and  men  becoming  evil,  Giooscap 
was  sorely  ve.xcd  ;  and,  unable  to  endure  them.  In;  must  p.iss  away.  So  he  made  a  rich 
feast  by  the  shore  of  the  Minas  Lake.  All  ihr  beasts  came  and  partook  of  the  feast, 
and  when  it  was  over,  he  and  his  uncle,  Great  Turtle,  stepped  into  the  canoe  and  went 
over  the  lake  singing  a  song  of  farewell  as  t!ie.\'  went  towards  the  West.  The  beasts 
looked  after  them  till  tiiey  could  see  them  no  more,  and  listened  till  the  singing  became 
f  lint  and  fainter  and  died  awa)-.  Then  a  grciit  silence  fell  upon  all ;  and  the  beasts, 
who  till  then  held  council  together  and  sjx.kc  but  one  language,  now  tied  and  nev(>r 
met  again  in  peace.  AH  nature  mourns,  and  will  mourn  till  Giooscap  comes  again  to 
restore  the  golden  age  and  make  men  and  animals  live  happily  together.  The  owl  hid 
herself  in  the  deep  forest  to  repeat  every  niglil  her  mourning  cry,  and  the  loons, -that 
had  been  Glooscap's  huntsmen,  fly  restlessly  up  and  liown  the  land  seeking  their  friend 
and  wailing  sadly  because  they  cannot  find  him.  According  to  one  legend,  it  was  not 
till  the  English  came  that  Giooscap  finally  turned  his  hounds  into  stone  and  passed 
away.  One  story  tells  liow  he  travelled  with  majestic  strides  from  Newfoundland  to 
Blomidon,  thenc(;  to  Partridge  Island,  and  thence  to  the  unknown  lands  of  the  setting 
si,n.  His  companions  "being  weary,  he,  with  swift,  strong  hand,  built  a  causeway  to 
make  their  journey  easier. 

Leaving  Wolfville,  Horton,  and  the  Gaspereau  Valley,  we  reach  Avonport,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  broad  and  turbid  Avon  River,  We  next  come  to  Hantsport.  Passing 
the  orchards  of  Falmorih,  we  cross  the  Avon  over  a  long  iron  bridge,  and  arrive  at 
ship-building,  ship-owning,  gypsum-exporting  Windsor.  Here  HaJiburton,  the  author  of 
Sam  Slick,  was  born,  and  here  for  a  number  of  years  he  lived.  Concerning  the 
scenery  he  writes : 

'•  He  who  travels  on  this  continent  and  does  not  spend  a  few  days  on  the  shores 
of  this  beautiful  and  extraordinary  basin  may  be  said  to  have  missed  one  of  the  great- 


nder-working 

He  was  the 

his  counsels. 

e  magicians. 

t,  which  then 

was   flooding 

d  it  into  its 

ye  fragments 
I 

is  Glooscap's 
wonders  for 
It  one  time 
Jt  h°  sent  a 
I'hich  caiist'd 
vi\,  Glooscap 

made  a  rich 
if  the  feast, 
ae  and  went 

The  beasts 
ging  became 

the  beasts, 
1  and  never 
les  again  to 
rhe  owl  hid 
i  loons, 'that 

their  friend 
,  it  was  not 

and  passed 
)iindland    to 

the  setting 
:auseway   to 

port,  at  the 
:.  Passing 
d  arrive  at 
le  author  of 
;;erning    the 

the  shores 
f  the  great- 


i    f'. 


OF   THE   CONTINENT 


«05 


LOW    I'lUIi.    WINDSOR. 

est  attractions   on   this   side   of 

ic  water." 

The   finest  view  of  Windsor  and   the  Avon    is 

to    be    had    from    the    ruinous    old    Fort    Edward. 

useful    once    for    defense,    but    long   since   a   mere 

reminiscence    of    the    storms    of    a    dead    century. 

The   Avon    when    the    tide    is    out   seems   a    broad 

stripe    of    dull    red,    marring    the    landscape,   with 

merely   a    rill    of  fresh   water    winding  threadlike  through    it.       It  has 

been    described    as    a  river    that    runs    first    one    way    and    then    the 

other,    and  then    vanishes   altogether.       The  large    ships   are  left  higli 

and  'Jry,  leaning   against  the  wharves,   in  seeming  helplessness.       But  wait   an  hour  or 

two.       See    how   the   water   rushes    and   pours   in,    hissing,    foaming,    eddying,    boiling, 


■Ml 


'•l 

111 


'Hi 

lui; 


!ty 


\%\ 


if' 


\    ! 

"111. 

:i» 


io6 


THE  EASTERNMOST  RIDGE 


ill. 


\\ 


\    Hi 


till  it  rises  almost  by  leaps  and  bounds  to  the  full  height  of  the  banks  and  dikes,  and 
the  vessels  float  easily  upon  its  bosom.  King's  Coli-Egk.  Windsor,  was  founded  in 
]  787,  and  is  thus  the  oldest  college  in  Canada  It  received  a  royal  ciiarter  from 
Geoi;j;^e    III.   in   1802. 

East  of  Mina-  Basin  is  Cobequid  Bay,  which  receives  the  waters  of  the  Shubenacadie 
River,  along  whose  course  ran  years  ago  the  "  SiiuiiENACADiu  C.\nai,."  This  canal  \\  is 
one  of  the  earliest  enterprises  of  the  kind  in  Canada.  After  costing  the  country,  and 
several  companies,  many  tiiousands  Sie  ling,  it  pro\ed  a  total  failure,  and  it  is  now  a 
ruin.  The  river  flo\,  :  through  fertile  meadows  that  unfailingly  yield  magnificent  crops 
of  hay.  The  turbid  tide  of  tiie  Bay  of  Fundy  rushes  inland  some  twenty-five  miles, 
making  tiie  river  for  some  distance  navigable  to  the  largest  ships.  Thj  tide  here,  \n 
rapidity  and  height,  is  equalled  nowhere  else  in  the  world.  Hence,  navigation  is  ex- 
tremely dangerous,  and  deadly  accidents  were  wont  to  be  startlingly  numerous.  iVlany 
spots  along  this  river  are  "  haunted,"  and  weird  stories  of  ghosts,  visions,  apparitions, 
sudden  perils  and  hairbreadth  escapes  abound.  Maitland  lies  at  the  mouth  of  tie 
river.  Maitland  siiips,  captains,  and  crews  are  heard  of  in  every  sea  from  the  South 
Pacific  to  the  Baltic.  Man)-  a  pleasant  home  that  overlooks  the  rapid  ebb  and  tlow 
of  the  Shubtuiacadie  thri\es  on  the  well-earned  wealth  brought  home  from  far  off  lands. 
Near  Maitland  is  a  remarkable  cave.  The  moutli  is  large  enough  to  permit  easy  en- 
trance, and  llu-  cave  widens  as  you  go  in,  until  its  roof  is  from  ten  to  twelve  feet 
above  your  head,  and  the  walls  stanti  far  enough  apart  to  allow  of  a  dozen  men  walk- 
inpf  abreast.  It  has  never  been  fully  explored;  but  it  is  at  least  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
in    extent.       The   rock  is  plaster  of   Paris. 

Truro,  a  few  miles  above  Maitland,  sits  prettily  amid  well-tilled  fields,  fragrant 
gardens,  rich  orcliards,  Densile  elms,  and  here  and  there  groves  of  evergreen.  Her 
horizon  is  houiuled  by  long  ranges  of  hills,  still  ciolhcd  with  their  own  hard  wooc' 
forests.  Exceedingh'  pretty  scen<;s  ap;  to  be  found  in  the  \icinity.  Leper's  brook 
tumbles  down  a  crag  some  twelve  f<>et,  -.md  forms  as  graceful  a  cascade  as  the  eye 
could  wish  to  resi.  upon.  The  .Salmon  River  and  the  North  River  tlow  through  fertile 
meadows  under  branching  willows  an<'  stately  tilms.  MacG'regor,  in  his  "  British 
America,"  describes  Truro  as  "  The  most  beautiful  village  in  Nova  Scotia,  and  as  far 
as  my  impressions  go,  the  finest  I  have  seen  in  .Xmi'rica."  This  place,  like  Cornwallis, 
had  been  settk'd  by  Ac.idians  ;  but  they  were  removed.  Not  till  1761  did  their  succes- 
sors come  to  possess  the  rich  heritage.  They  were  mainly  North  of  Ireland  people 
and  their  descendants,  from  New  Hampshire,  who  responded  to  the  Proclamation  of 
Governor  Lawrence  inviting  immigrants  to  fill  the  blank  caused  by  the  expatriation  of 
the  French.  In  a  very  few  years  the  settlers  had  their  church  and  school,  their  parson 
and  school-master,  and  Truro  has  continued  to  be  one  of  the  educational  centres  of  the 
Province.       It    is    now    an    important   railway   centre ;    but   a  hundred   years   ago  there 


•  l, 


OF  tha: 


NTINENT 


107 


was  only  a  bridle-track  to  Halifax.  Amoiij;  the  tirst  settlers  were  four  brothers,  Arclii- 
l)alds,  from  whom  all  the  Archibalds  in   Nova  Scotia  and  many  in   the   other   Provinces 

ind  the  United  States  are  descended.  David  Archibald,  the  first  Truro  majjistrate, 
was  wont  not  onh    to  pass  sentcnc(',  but    to    execute    punishment    with    his    own    hands. 

Two  boys  who  were  captured  h\  liim  in  the  act  of  steaiinjr  apples  on  Sunday  were 
imprisonc^d  in  his  cellar,  anil  on  Montla\-  wcrt:  tied  to  tin-  tree  whicii  thev  had  robbed, 
and  there  caned  ! 

Skirtinij;  the  head  of  the  bay,  one  sees  in  every  creek  and  gully  the  work  of  the 
Hay  of  Fundy  tide.  A  wide  extent  of  dike-lands,  redeemed  from  the  sea  by  the 
Acadians,  is  still  as  fertile  as  ever.  .At  Masstown — where  there  is  now  no  town — there 
stood  the  largest  chapel  the  iM-ench  owned  in  Acadia.  It  was  visible  from  all  sides  of 
C'obequid  Hay,  and  here  the  [)('0[)le  came  to  mass  from  great  distances.  Hence  the 
name  of  the  place.  No  vestige  of  the  chapel  remains.  The  dikes,  the  poplar,  the 
apple-tree,  and  the  willow  are  the  sole  remembrances  of  the  Acadians.  We  are  now 
within  easy  reach  of  one  of  the  most  stirring  hives  of  industry  in  all  Canada.  Two 
mountain  streams  cleave  their  way  through  the  Cobequid  hills,  or  wind  around  their 
rough  spurs,  and  unite  their  waters  just  aft(M-  passing  through  deep  and  gloomy  gorges. 
.\t  the  junction,  the  Acadi.\  Minks  are  situated.  The  village  is  built  on  more  than 
seven  hills- on  a  small  sea  of  hills  and  it  is  out  of  the  ijosom  of  the  hills  that  the 
(ire  is  extracted  which  gives  work  to  so  many  hundred  hands.  The  spot,  irrespective 
of  the  iron  works,  is  picturesqui'  in  a  high  degree.  Far  off  southward  are  the  gleam- 
ing waters  of  the  bay,  and  beyond  are  the  blue  hills  of  Hants  County;  north,  east, 
west,  are  the  Cobequid  hills,  witii  their  goodly  crown  of  forest,  their  deep,  dark  gorges, 
tlieir  hurrying    streams.         The    town   is   built  without   the    slightest  regard  to    symmetry. 

Ihere  are  two  immense  blast  furnaces,  heated,  throbbing,  angrily  shrieking—  di.sgorg- 
iiig  great  streams  of  molten  metal  which,  in  tlu'  saiul-inoulds,  is  formed  into  pig 
iron.  The  heat  of  a  furnace  filled  with  molten  ore  cannot  be  much  if  at  all  short 
of  1,100  degrees  b'ahrenheit.  i'wo  furnaces  are  kept  conlinuallv  at  work,  the  smoke 
of  their  burning  rising  da\  and  night  in  the  heart  of  the  town.  A  railway  is  con- 
structed upon  which  the  ore  is  carried  from  the  mine  some  four  or  live  miles  away. 
These  mines  are  not  so  deep,  dark,  ami  dirty  as  ordinarx'  coal  mine.s.  Cornishmen, 
Nova  Scotians,  Swedes,  Irishmen,  aiul  Scotchnum  emerge  with  their  faces  painted  with 
red  and  yellow  ore,  and  with  a  keen  appetite  for  dinner  after  half  a  day's  work. 
Seldom  is  there  aught  but  peace  and  good  will  among  the  toilers  underground,  or 
around  these  raging  furnaces:  but  at  no  time  tlo  they  appear  better  natured  or  to 
greater  advantage  than  when  hurrying  in  friendl;,'  groups  to  their  meals.  Besides  the 
blast  furnaces  there  are  long  ranges  of  coke  ovens,  and  iron  works  where  the  "pig" 
is  transformed  into  bars,  sheets,  wheels,  axles,  and 


dark  nights   the  village  has  the    appearance    of 


a  1     i^ 


I  sorts  of  articles  in  this  line.      Ii 
tive    volcano.        At  stated    periodi 


;!i 


.i;i 
\\\ 

MX 
\\\ 

'»: 


'"'^iai^ 


I'H' 


iu^.'ll 


n 


l:i. 


m 


108 


7//£  EASTERNMOST  RIDGE 


the  Iava.HtPf.amN  of  -slap"  and  iron  pour  forth  liquid  and  fluent  as  water.  GhostK 
lanes  of  liyhi  JNm,,.  nut  from  every  openin<r  of  the  great  structure  surrounding  tht- 
furnaces,    ami    Uit-rc-    is    the    constant    clank    and    crash    of    machinery    and    the    mighty 

roaring,  full  of  repressed  fury,  of  the  furnace  fires.  A  hun- 
dred and  fifty  thousand  tons  of  coal  are  annually  consumed. 
The  furnaces  can  easily  manage  seventy  thousand  tons  of  ore. 
These  works  will  be  to  Canada  what  the  Krupp  works  at 
Essen  are  to  Germany,  or  those  at  Creuset  to  France.  They 
will  grow  as  the   Dominion  grow.s. 

Great  Village,  in  the  vicinity  of  Acadia   Mines,   is  a  con- 


■RIDGI'.S    Al    WINttftOK. 


venient  starting  point  for  explo- 
ration on  tlu!  Hdi'lh  of  Basin  of 
Minas,  where  the  Mienery  is  often 
grand  and  always  lieaiitiful.  You 
watch  the  Hwtlling  tides  of  the 
bay;  you  note  tile  successful  efforts  of  human  enter- 
prise to  bridle  the  angry  waters  and  to  redeem  thou- 
sands   of    acres    from    their    sway.        A-:   you    travel    past 

Parrsborough  and  the  classic  clifTs  of  Cap  d'Or,  westward  and  northward,  you  come 
to  the  Joggins,  a  scene  of  petrified  forests  dear  to  the  heart  of  the  geologist.  It  is  a 
spot  where  thp  process  of  world-making,  past  and  present,  may  be  studied  to  good 
efTect.  Coal  is  found  ;  and  there  are  submerged  forests,  trees  standing  as  they  stood 
when  still  growing,  hut  now  turned  to  stone.  The  tide  beating  against  the  coast 
wastes  away  thcMe  rocks  as  well  as  all  else  that  comes  within  its  reach.  Farther 
up    the    Cheignecto    Buy    ate    to    be    found  forests    below  the    present  sea-level  and  not 


m ' 


OF  THE   CONTINENT 


loy 


ines,    IS   a  con- 


yet  turned  into    stone,    but    evidently  sinking    slowly  as   those    other  older  forests   sank 
ages   long   ago. 

Following  up  Cumberland  Basin,  we  come  into  the  region  of  rich  marsh-land, 
Hikes,  great  herds  of  cattle,  vast  expanse  of  meadow  dotted  here  and  there  with  ham- 
lets and  villages.  The  dike-lands  of  Nova  Scotia  cover  nearly  40,000  acres,  and  addi- 
tions are  made  from  year  to  year.  The  largest  share  of  these  fertile  acres  is  under 
the  spectator's  eye  as  he  gazes  over  the  Tantramar  Marsh,  an  inexhaustible  mine  of 
wealth  to  the  agriculturists  around.  Here  are  visible  a  few  vestiges  of  the  war- 
period— -Fort  Lawrence  and  VoxX.  Cumberland,  the  scenes  of  the  last  struggles  between 
nationalities  which  now  dwell  together  in  peace  under  the  folds  of  the  British  and 
Canadian  flags.  The  passions  of  1755  are  as  obsolete  as  these  forts  and  this  old 
rusty  cannon.  The  town  of  Amherst  is  a  pleasant  little  hive  of  human  life.  From  its 
hillside  it  looks  abroad  on  as  fair  a  rural  scene  as  Canada  anywhere  presents — marshes, 
meadows,  orchards,  sloping  uplands,  dark  belts  of  forest. 

The  Cobequid  range  runs  through  Cumberland,  Colchester,  and  Pictou  counties,  a 
length  of  over  a  hundred  miles.  The  hills  vary  from  400  to  1,000  feet  in  height. 
I'Vom  the  summit  of  Sugar  Loaf,  at  Westchester,  we  can  see  at  the  same  time  the 
Bay  of  Fundy  and  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  portions  of  the  three  Provinces  of 
New  Brunswick,  Nova  Scotia,  and  P.  E.  Island.  Embosomed  among  the.se  hills  are 
many  beautiful  lakelets,  from  a  few  rods  to  five  miles  in  length,  usually  abounding  in 
salmon  trout.  Following  the  Cobequid  range  eastward,  we  look  down  upon  sunny  val- 
leys, fertile  fields,  great  breadths  of  forest,  towns  like  Pugwash,  Wallace,  Tatamagouche, 
and  River  John,  all  bordering  on  Northumberland  Straits,  and  all  largely  given 
to  ship-building  and  the  lumber-trade.  At  last  we  come  upon  Pictou  harbour,  a 
singularly  well  sheltered,  land-locked,  quiet  sheet  of  water.  Tb"  land  slopes  upward 
somewhat  steeply  from  the  shore,  until  it  reaches  bald  and  bold  summits  at  Frazer's 
Mountain,  Greenhill,  Fitzpatrick's  Mountain,  and  Mount  Thom.  The  harbour  receives 
into  its  bosom  the  West,  the  Middle,  and  the  East  rivers.  The  valleys  through  which 
tiiese  rivers  flow  are  thickly  settled  with  prosperous  farmers.  The  uplands  and  hillsides 
have  been  bravely  attacked,  and  in  most  cases  compelled  to  yield  an  honest  livelihood. 
In  summer  Pictou  harbour  is  enlivened  by  the  presence  of  ves.sels  and  steamers  from 
many  ports.  In  winter  it  is  thickly  sealed  with  ice  and  gay  with  the  sports  of  skaters, 
curlers,  and  sleighing-parties.  Scenes  of  great  beauty  are  presented  to  the  eye  as  one 
ascends  the  Pictou  hills — scenes  in  which  field  and  forest,  hill  and  valley,  river  and  shore, 
.md  shining  sea  appear  in  well-ordered  array.  The  sky  southward  from  the  town  is 
often  blurred  with  the  smok<!  that  ascends  continually  from  the  coal  mines  in  the  dis- 
tance. Pictou  harbour  is  by  far  the  best  on  the  northern  coast  of  Nova  Scotia.  Its 
only  drawback  is  that  it  is  frost-bound  for  four  months  in  the  year.  The  rivers  are 
not  large,  but  some  cf  them  present  scenery  of  the  loveliest  character.     The  East  River 


:!i 


\\\ 
lit 

\n 
til 


m  - 

(■■JCiSIt 

i  '111 


no 


TlIJi   l-.ASIHK.WMOSr  K//)(iH 


w 


w 


tfi 


}i 


Hi 

1st 

-St 


for  many  miles  Hows  tlimu.t;!,  a  vallry  ,.,\luns.|nr  a.  ll...  I  rnsnaclis.  Sutherlaml's,  Barney's. 
:uui  West  riv.Ts  liave  tlicir  claims  c,n  tlie  t.nirist's  all.M.li,.,,.  Ti,e  sportsman  loves  their 
banks  and  often  traces  them  far  up  amon.t,^  the  hill,  to  the  h.ndy  loch  or  mountain  tan, 
whence  they   heoin   their  coursi;. 

The  nam.-  I'm  to,  is  of  Indian  orioin.  Its  m.-nnlnitf  in  uncertain,  p-ishermen  from 
"1.1  iM-ance  found  their  way  here  early  in  the  „„h  .rnttn-.v  and  were  deli.irhted  with  the 
alnuulance  of  tish  and  ,<;ame  of  all  kinds,  from  ih..  oy.ler  to  the  seal  and  walrus,  from 
the  otter  to  the  moose.  Monsieur  Denys,  (iovern.U'  of  llw  C.df  of  .St.  Lawrence  som. 
240  y,.,rs  a,t,ro,  speaks  of  -oysters  lar-er  than  a  sho..  and  nearly  the  same  shape,  an, I 
th<-y  are  all  v<.-y  fat  and  of  ^-ood  tast..."  The  Mieuta.  Indians,  a  branch  of  the  Ali^on- 
quin  race,  held  dominion  at  one  time  from  N'irMinia  lo  Labrador.  Thev  occupied  Nova 
Scotia.  Cape  Mref.n,  l>.  l^  Island,  and  a  lar.v  p,,r,  ,.|  New  Hr,mswick.  '  Pictou  was  the 
centre  of  their  power.  FL-rc,.  battles  were  fought  between  ihem  and  the  Mohawks,  the 
latter  fierce  invaders  from  the  west.  Haltk.lield.  hav,.  been  discovered,  presenting 
l-roofs  of  war's  .leadly  work-  human  bones,  brolaMt  .knIK.  stone  axes,  flint  arrow  heads^ 
spear  heads,  and  other  implements.  Though  these  wars  are  centuries  old.  the  Micmacs 
still  remember  with  terror  the  invasions  of  the  Mohawks  and  have  a  .superstitious  dread 
of  the   very  name. 

The  iM-ench  made  no  permanent  or  effective  Heulcnn«nt  in  I'ictou  ;  but  some  relics 
of  their  temporary  visit  remain  -some  rust-ealen  yi,n.,  some  well-tempered  swords,  a 
few  luiman  skiiletons. 

Attempts  at  settlint,^  Pictou  were  made  by  the  MHtish  between  .  ^65  and  177^,. 
Immen.se  tracts  of  land  were  .^rranted  to  specidators  on  conditions  .generally  easy  ami 
reasonable.  Benjamin  iM-anklin  was  interested  in  the  I'hiladelphia  Company  which,  on 
tlu-  ,oth  of  June,  ,767,  actually  eff<xte,l  the  Inst  f..ol,l,.  nettlement,  consisting  of  twelv 
heads  of  families,  Iw.mU)  children,  one  convict  servant,  an.l  perhaps  one  or  two  coloured 
slaves.  These  came  by  sea  from  Philadelphia,  ,n,d  wnv  met  shortly  after  their  arrival 
in  Pictou  by  live  or  six  \<,uno  men  from  Truro  to  afford  some  help  in  bec,ri„„ing  their 
campaign.  ••  The  prospect  was  dreary  .Miough.  An  unbroken  forest  covered  the  whole 
surface  of  the  country  to  the  water's  edge.  Whut  In  now  the  lower  part  of  the  town 
was  then  an  alder  swatnp.  All  around  stood  th-  mighty  nionarchs  of  the  wood  in  their 
primeval  grandeur,  the  evergreens  spreading  a  sombiv  n.vcring  „ver  the  plains  and  up  the 
hills,  relieved  by  the  lighter  shade  of  the  deciduous  tmcH,  with  here  and  there  some  tall 
spruce  rising  like  a  minan^t  or  spire  above  its  fr.li..WH,"  The  white  pines,  in  great 
nuntbers,   reared   their  tasselled   heads    150  or   200  feel, 

This  little  band  of  Philadelphians  were  the  orjy  \',n^\\^U  settlers  on  the  coast  for 
H  di.stanc-  of  some  two  hurRir<:d  miles.  They  had  especte.l  to  find  here  dike-land< 
similar  to  those  which  had  previously  attracted  seltltM'.  lo  (irand  Pre  and  other  dis- 
tricts   on    the    Bay    of    Fundy  ;    but    in    this    they  were    biifrly  disappointed,    and    fell 


antl's,  Barney's. 
nan  loves  their 
'  mountain  tarn 

isliermen  from 
i.ijlit(;{l  with  thi- 
(I  walrus,  from 
-aurcncc  sonn' 
Hie    shape,   an, I 

of  the  Aljfon- 
occupied  Nova 
Picton    was  tiir 

Mohawks,  liic 
ed,  presenting; 
t  arrow  heads. 
I,  the  Micmacs 
;rstitious  dreail 

Lit  some  relics 
-■red  swords,  a 

■65  and  1773. 
ally  easy  and 
any  which,  011 
ting  of  twelve 

two  coloured 
■  their  arrival 
spinning  their 
Med  the  whole 
t  of  the  town 

wood  in  tlieir 
is  and  up  the 
here  some  tall 
nes,  in    great 

the  coast  for 
re  dike-lands 
id  other  di.s- 
ted,    and    felt 


or  rill-  coxriMixr 


III 


f.<_n'i^ 


themseKc's  in   utter  exile.      Most   of  tliem  were 
eager  to    return   in   the    little  Hope,  which    hati 
borne  them   thither;    but  the    Captain   slipped   away   in   the   night,   leaving  them   to  hattit 
for    life  as  best   the\    could. 

The  settlers  ol  lo-day  in  the  wi'steni  prairie,  or  in  the  backwoods  of  the  older 
Provinces,  may  well  learn  courage  from  the  experience  of  these  Pictou  pioneers. 
During  the  first  year  they  lived  chiefly  on  fish  and  game.  In  the  spring  those  who 
were  able  walked  through  the  pathless  woods  to  Truro,  a  ilistance  of  forty  miles,  and 
returned  each  with  .a  bag  of  seed-potatoes  on  his  back.  The  crop  was  good,  but  not 
large,  as  they  had  not  been  able  to  clear  much  ground.  The  second  winter  also  was 
one  of  severe  privation,  and  in  the  spring  they  had  to  go  again  to  Truro  for  .seed. 
Cutting  out  the  eyes  of  the  potatoes,  they  were  able  to  carry  much  larger  quantites, 
and   they  succeeded   in   raising  enough   for   their  winter's  supply. 

On   the    15th    I^ecember,    1773,   the    ship    Hcitor.   with    189    Highland    emigrants    on 


\\\ 


Ul 

Ul 


board,   arrived.       The   voNaire  had   been  lo 


nij  ai 


id  d 


rear)-  ;  su|ip 


ies  fell  short,  and  a 


number 


of  women   and   children  died   of  small-pox   and  dysentery.       Till   the    Highlanders   arrived 


S9' 


I  uini 

,»;]i 

,"'311 

.   ill. 


mi 


Is* 


THE  EASTHRNAJOST  RUX.E 

the  Indians  had  been  troublesome.      They  were  now  told  that  men  like  those  who  had 
taken  Quebec  were  at  hand.      When  they   saw    the    Highland  costumes    and    heard    the 
bagpipes,   they  fled  for  a    time    to    the    forests,  and    never   gave    farther    trouble.       The 
■irrival    of    tlie   Jhctor   marked    an  epoch  in  the   settlement  of  Canada.      The  stream  of 
Highland    immigration    poured    into    Pictou,  Cape   Breton,   Prince    Edward    Island,   New 
Brunswick,  an.l  portions  of  tiie  Upper  Provinces.     The  newly  arrived  Highlanders  suffered 
incredible  hardships  for  the  firsi  niu..  or  ten    years.       Patiently,   sturdily    they   struggled 
with  difficulties  from   wiiicii  tiie  bravest  might  well  shrink.      They  had  to  travel  through 
the  woods  forty    miles    to    carry    potatoes  and  other  provisions  on  their  backs  for  their 
wives   and    little    children.        One    bushel    of    potatoes    was    load    enough     for    a    man. 
I  le  had  to  spend  three  days  on  the  road.     Streams  had  to  be  forded,  stiff  braes  to  be 
.limbed,  steep  banks    to    be  descended,    storms   of    snow    and    rain    to    be    encountered. 
Sometimes  the  potatoes  would  {xv.vy.v.  on  the  burdened  back.     After  the  third  year  they 
were  able  to  secure  at   least   the   necessaries   of    life   without   the    terrible   pilgrimages    to 
Truro.        In    1775    their    poverty    was    aggravated  bv  the  arrival   of    a  group  of    Scotch 
families    that    had    been    literally    starved    out  of    P.    J'.    Island   by   the  devastations  of    a 
plague    of    mice.        The     Highlanders,    true    to    their    character,    welcomed    the    starving 
strangers,   and  shared  with  them  to   the  last   morsel. 

The  War  of  Independence  was  felt,  the  first  settlers  sympathizing  very  decidedly 
with  the  Thirteen  Colonies,  while  the  recently  arrived  Highlanders  were  intensely  loyal. 
The  result  was  that  the  disloyal  element  was  gradually  crowded  out.  Slaves  were 
owned  in  Pictou.  Matthew  Harris  sold  .\bram,  a  negro  boy,  to  Matthew  Archibald, 
of  Truro,  for  the  sum  of  fifty  poinnls.  This  transaction  occurred  in  1779.  In  the 
reconls  of  Pictou,  in  date  1 7S6.  we  have  a  document  duly  attested,  signed,  sealed,  and 
delivered,  testifying  for  the  information  of  "all  men"  that  Archibald  Allardice  sold  to 
T)r.  John  Harris  "one  negro  man  named  -Sambo,  aged  twenty-five  years,  or  thereabouts, 
md  also  one  brown  mare  and  her  colt,  now  sucking,  to  have  and  to  hold  as  his  pro- 
perty," as  security  for  a  d.4n  of  forty  i)ounds.  Slavery  did  not  live  long  in  Nova 
Scotia  ;  nor  is  there  on  record  a  deed  of   cruelty  to  a  slave  in  Pictou 

Valuable  additions  to  the  population  were  made  shortly  after  the  close  of  the 
American  war,  Scottish  regiments  which  were  disbanded  on  this  side  the  water  having 
large  grants  of  land  assigned  to  iIkmii.  Many  of  the  descendants  of  Highland  veterans 
still  nourish  in  this  county  and  Antigonish.  In  1786  there  was  immigration  direct 
from  Scotland,  and  this  movement  continued  and  increased  in  subse-cpient  years, 
the  county  becoming  dominantly  Scotch,  Highland  and  Presbyterian.  It  was  in  this 
year  that  the  Rev.  James  MacGregor  arrived  and  began  his  missionary  labours.  The 
young  minister  (afterward  well  knoun  as  Dr.  Marr.rrg„r)  travelled  from  Halifax 
on   horseback.       From    Halifax  to    Trun) 


roac 


JUt    a    1 


ough    bridle-track ;    from 
Truro    to    Pictou    there    was    but    a    •■blaze,"    a    mark    on    trees,    along    the    line    that 


lose  who  had 
id  heard  the 
ouble.  The 
he  stream  of 

Island,  New 
iders  suffered 
ley  striiggh'd 
ravel  thioujjh 
icks  for  their 

for    a    man. 

braes  to  be 
encountered, 
ird  )ear  they 
Igrimages  to 
p  of  Scotch 
stations  of  a 
tiie   starving 

ry  decidedly 
enscly  loyal. 
Slaves  were 
'  Archibald, 
779.     In  the 

sealed,  and 
lice  sold  to 
thereabouts, 

as  his  pro- 
>i\\r  ill   Nova 

lose  of  the 
I'ater  having 
ind  veterans 
ation  direct 
uent  years, 
was  in  this 
)oiirs.  The 
iin  Halifax 
rack ;  from 
e   line    that 


w, 


OF   THE   CONTINENT 


".5 


was  to  l.c  travelled.  On  his  arrival  at  I'ictou  town  there  were  i)nt  few  buildings,  anil 
the  woods  ('.xtendeil  to  tin-  water's  edge.  On  the  2;,rd  of  July  his  first  S(;rnu)n  was 
pr.'aclicd  in  a  barn.  In  1787  th.-  first  two  chnrcht's  were  built  in  the  county.  'riic 
minister,  abhorring  slavery,   was  resolved  to   put  an  end   to  it   in    Piciou.       lie  did  so  by 


ACAbiA     MIMCb. 


paying  fifty  pounds  to  Marris,  the  owner  of  a  young  mulatto  girl.  "Die  Mingo  "—twenty 
pounds  the  first  ><:ar.  and  the  balance  in  course  of  the  two  succeeding  years.  His 
stipend  was  tW(Mil\-seven   pounds  ! 

The  town  was  coniinenceil  on  its  present  site  in  1788.  .\fter  a  feeble  beginning 
it  grew  rapidl)-,  and  was  particularly  prosperous  during  the  Honapartist  wars.  .\  vigour- 
ous  lumber-trade  '-(Mitred  here;  ;  prices  were  exorbitant  ;  tlu;  dcniaiul  was  greater  than 
tlie  supply;  money  was  plentiful,  and  there  was  no  thought  of  the  ilays  of  adversity, 
In  1820  came  a  relapse— a  collapse— which  was,  however,  partially  redeemed  by  the  coal- 
trade,  which  commenced  with  considerable  vigour  in  1830.  Other  towns  have  sprung 
uj)  in  the  county,  which  are  likely  to  outstrip  in  population  the  old  shire-town  ;  but 
I'ictou  is  a  well-ordered,  well-educated,  wealthy  place,  of  about  4,000  inhabitants.  Its 
Academy  was  one  of  the  first,  as  it  has  been  one  of    the    best,  educational    institutions 


Nova  Scotia. 
I'or    amenity    of    situation    Pictou    cannot    easily    b< 


rpassed.     On  tl.f     lide  of 


••i< 

Ul 

ill 
ui 


SliJ 
•311  'i 

*  :j ; 


"4 


rm-    liASTERNMOSr  RIIHili 


1 


s 


M 


W' 


I.  ' 

^ 

\\  ■ 

ar 

*i, 

■  ^ 

fa 

ill 

r  ■■ ' 

'Ah 

1  •. 

sreii 


tly 


risinif    lull.     It    loiniiiaiKU    a    view    of    the    \u\v\\     Im^jh    {d     « h 


hosom    It    IS 


mirrored   with   nia'ncal   distimt 


Dcss  \vluMH\rr  tlic   wimls  ari'   stil 


\ 


()  loM   ever  dims  tli<' 


air.    wliic 


h     i 


s    cool    an( 


even    in     tli<'    licii 


ol     sinniiicr  :    and    in    winter    you 


may    alwa\s    conni    on    snow    eiionnh    lo    make    iravellin^^    l>y    s\v\<^\    jiracticable,        I" 


woatluT  is  nuuli   less  i-haniielii!    than    aloiii^   the   .\tlanti( 
the      town      are     tiood.     and     the     favourite     drives     lead 


I'oiisl,        rile    roads   Icadiiijf    to 
to    sifiies    hii^hly     (jictiir('s(|iie. 


i'ictoii     has     its     hanks,     eonrt      house,     piihlic     schools,     (hiiiviies,     and    eiejrant     |.rivat. 

■.U|i|i(ised    to    lie   alis(diilfiy  esseii 


(UvcUino-Jioiis 


M 


esides  all   these,  it   has  (what    is   not 


lial    to   the    happiiK'ss    of    a    modern    communitx  )    a    haunted 


house 


lallen    clii 


ninevs, 


lirok 


en    wiiKlows.   cleca\ins. 


tree-stone 


pillar 


s,   doors 


\W    on    nisl\     hinges,    weed-nrown 


i,rarden     walks,    fences    liroken    down      the 


surroiinilinv's 


deck 


ihi- 


lilace      IS 


haunted 


was  th( 


It   was   once    a    scene; 


o(    activits. 


i-lleriJV, 


a\el\,     ,uii 


^IH'. 


ol    the  countr\-si 


le   f( 


^|iace   ol   thre 


In 


I      Ue.illh 
d    miles. 


Ih 


e   owner 


I'int 


industrious,  vi<j;ilaiU,  i^eiu'rous.  kind-heart 


(•(!,  he  siKceeiled  m  all  his  iinderlakin 


Mortimer  died   at   t 


le    aL;c    o 


f    tiftv-t 


wo.    worth.    It    \\a 


s    siipiiosed 


Ih 


le    hard    tim.;s    and    li'rrible    revulsions    of    iSjo    and 


erprism^ 
lulwan 
a    million    dollars 


•ediii!^     years    dissipated    1 


t'stat(!  so 


that 


It   nothing;   but  a   \  er_\-    inotlest  jointure   wa^   left    bir  his  wid( 


lis 


louse 


in   which    he   lived   has    Ioul;    been    desolate,   and    his  w»-allh   has   vanished,   but  his  nai 


is   lu'ld    in   grateful 


reniembranct 


\( 


(ih 


is  a   ra])idly   rising-  town   on   the   I-last    River  of    I'ict 


lie 


oil,  near   the   (>reat 


coal-iiimiiiij  district. 


■tof 


ore   it   has   been    noted    fiu"   its   shi 


p-liUlKlllli 


)ut    it   IS    now 


enL,fat,n'ni.,'-  in    other   iiuliistries — iron-works,  steid-work 


s.  jjiass-work'-, 


In 


(Ml    and 


luilding   iiiav'  bo 


ilevelopet 


d    h 


ere   when    the    timber    sup] 


UK'S    are    exhausted 


steel   ship- 
I'he    Mast 


R 


ivcr, 


before 


reach  Ml' r 


the    to 


vvn,    l)ecoilles 


a   tidi 


il   stream,   aiii 


loses   Its   iiio.mt.im   lorci; 


and  purity. 


lic'fore;   leaviiiLi    I'ict 


ou  we  must  nieiitioi.   the  "  \vax  of   the  Mi 


Cur 


loiislv   eiiousjll. 


there  are  on   record   several   visitations  of  tli 


e   mice   plague    in 


I' 


Isla.nd  ;   but  we  k 


now 


)f  onl 


V  one  such   m 


X 


ova   Scotia. 


ri 


lis   was  in    i<Si  i 


he    mice    ea.ne,    no    one 


iiovvs 


whence. 


r 


iieir    iiuni 


be 


r    was    so   vast    that   it   was  as  im| 


lossilile   to  ill! 


thi'ir  ravaii'es 


he    seed 


;rain  in  tiie 


as  it   would   be  to  bridle   the   locusts  of  the    i'last,       Tliev    devoure 

lields.        They   ate   the  seed-potatoes.        Thc'V    destroyid    the    yrowini.;  crops.        I'lieir  march 

was    toward    the    seashore,   when;   they   perished   in   heaps  and   \. 


W    like    lines    ot     seaweed 


A 


Ni'KioMsii    is    pronounced    the   prettu^st   villa^ 


e     111     eastern 


N 


ova    Scotia. 


Il 


pearl  set  in  the  !.;reen  of  rich  lields  and  meadows.  The  while  dwellings  ijleani  out 
cosily  from  anionL,^  the  overshadowini;  trees  and  the  siirroundinj^  shrubberv.  A  river 
from  the  far  off  (luysboro  hills  winds  its  way  b\  church,  and  mill,  and  tidy  hamlet, 
and  pastoral  scenes  of  exquisite  loveliness.  The  cra,s.i;s  of  .Arisaij,;  at  no  !.;reat  distance 
tell  the  story  of  the  earth's  geolo<,nc  (tras  with  marvellous  dislinctness,  and  henctr  are 
precious  in   the  sitjht  of  the  geologists  of  the  Old   World    and    I  lie     \ew.      Not    far    off 


liosom  it  is 
■cr  dims  the 

uiiilcr  you 
cable.  I'lu! 
i  loaflinv;    In 

|)icturcs(|ur. 
;aiit  |iii\atc 
iliitcly  (.■sscn- 
II    cliimncvs, 

\\(('(l-t;i-()\vn 
lis  |)lacc  is 
I  Ik'  owner 
'inti'i-prisiiii^, 
rs.  luivvard 
lion  dollars, 
ssipatcil  his 
rile  house 
ul  his  name 

ir  the  yrt-at 
It  it  is  now 
1  steel  ship- 
I'he  Ivast 
.intain    lorc(; 

1^1)  eiiouj;h, 
)ut  we  know 

one  Un(j\\s 
irir  ra\a,<(es 
strain  in  the 
I'luir  niarth 
)f  seaweed. 
a.      It    is    a 

jrleani  out 
A  ii\cr 
id\'  haiidet, 
at  distance 
1  hence  an; 
\'ot    far    off 


OF  THI-:  cOi\'  I  i.\i:.\  r 


"5 


inland  is  the  hcaiitifid  I.odiaber  I. .ike,  its  hanks  o\  ershadoucd  l.y  in.iplrs.  heeches.  and 
elms.  When  allam.'  with  the  tints  of  autumn,  and  ihe  lake  relleetN  the  iLjreen  and  j,'old. 
the  lieauly  is  redoubled.  St.  Ninian's  Cathedral,  .Xnti^^onish  the  se.it  of  the  ISishop  of 
.\riehat,  is  one  of  the  most  (ommoilioiis  ecclesiastical  structures  in  the  Maritime  I'ro- 
vinces. 


■*^,-*.t --■■■*.;•  ,      . 


NliW  (a.ASGOW, 


CAPE     B  R  ETO  N. 

To  one  visitino-  the  Dominion  from  the  Straits  of  Belle-isle.  Cape  Breton  is  the 
advance  yuard  and  promise  of  Canada  ;  and,  in  every  sense,  Cape  Breton  is  worthy  to 
stand  as  ■;  sentinel  in  th('  j^reat  j^ate  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  It  has  riches  in  coal  and 
minerals  complementary  to  the  bountiful  harvests  of  the  fertile  West.  Its  clifTs  and 
capes  and  the  Bras  d'Or  are  tjermane  to  Niagara  and  the  St.  Lawrence  :  and  the 
traditions  of  Louisbiir_sr  should  kindle  the  imagination  of  the  Canadian  to  as  bright  a 
heat  as  ti'    se  which  glorify  Quebec. 

We  cannot  approach  this  island  more  favourably  than  by  the  way  most  convenient 
to  the  people  of  more  western  Canada.  The  passenger  by  the  railway  catches 
glimpses    of    Uie    broad    e.\panse    of    St.    George's    Ba>-,    with    the    Cape    Breton    shore 


::i 


Ul 

Ul 


S9 

IS 


KNTICKING    AN  lIGONIbll. 


^V 


i 


I 


■'  ij.i     I 


lying  like  a  cloud  on  the  horizon.  He  sees  over  deep  yor.i^jes  the  wooded  back  of 
Cape  Porcupine,  and  soon  i.y  a  steep  incline  the  train  descends  to  tlie  level  of  the 
Strait  of  Canso,  a  ma<,rnincent  natural  canal  fifteen  miles  lon.i(  by  a  mile  and  mor<' 
in  width,   which  separates  tiie  island  from  the  mainland. 

Indian  legends  'ell  how  the  Divine  Glooscap  was  stopped  in  his  mission  to  New- 
foundland by  the  waters  of  th^s  str.ii^  Not  to  be  L)alked,  he  suunn.Mied  a  wlude,  which 
bore  him  safely  across.  The  prohlc.  a"  present  agitating  the  Cap.:  Hreton  mind  is 
how  to  get  the  railway  across— iiow  tu  .  ■:  .  le  J-.-  .  iu.r.se  liirougli  these  siieltered  val- 
leys and  under  these  towering  iiiils,  and  ix:.:.Sh  these  streaiv,  an.l  straits,  to  St.  Anne's, 
or  Cape  North,  or  Louisburg.  A  ..vaii  o:.^a,-i  ferry  w.l;  bear  mails  and  pas.sengcrs 
thence  to  the  west  coast  of  Newfoundland.  Traversing  that  island  by  rail,  the  longer 
ferry    from    eastern    Newfoundland    to    Ireland    will    bj    crossed    in    three    or    four    days. 


\tm 


•*\s 


ided  back  of 
level  of  the 
c;    antl    more 

on    to    New- 

wliale,  whicii 

'ton  mind  is 

heltered  val- 

St.  Anne's, 

i   passengers 

tlie    longer 

four    tla\s. 


OF  run  cOiWTixi-:    r 


"r 


Thus   it  is  iioped  that  mails  and  j  assengers  will  be  I  orne  from   continent  to  continent 
in  less  than  five  days. 

At  early  mornimi  we  take  a  steamer  down  th(  Strait,  whitii  even  within  its  nar- 
row boundaries  seems  to  possess  sonietiiing  of  the  dignity  of  the  sea.  1  he  sun  rises 
over  Cape  Breton  and  bathes  the  sloping  shores  of  the  Strait.  At  Hear  Island  the- 
steamer  turns  to  the  left,  through  i.enno.x  Passage  between  Cape  Union  ami  Isle 
Madame,  where  there  still  survives  a  small  colony  of  French  tisliermen.  Loii.,  vistas 
open  uj)  seaward  betvvern  the  islands,  and  we  catch  glimpses  between  the  shores  of 
bay^  which  rearli  f.nr  inland. 

Tile  prini(!v  d  forces  which  made  for  the  iak(,'s  of  the  Bras  d'Or  a  bed  of  irregular 
and  fanta.uir  outline,  left  at  St.  Peter's  a  narrow  isthmus  through  which  a  canal  has 
been  cui,  h\  ^vhich  the  steamer  reaches  the  Bras  d'Or.  Here,  about  1630,  (irsi  of  white 
men,  the  Sieur  Denjs  settled,  a  brave  and  pushing  pioneer,  with  his  fishing  stations  in 
Nova  Scotia  and  the  Bay  of  Chaleurs,  ready  to  defend  his  rights  against  all  comers. 
In  journeys  between  his  two  Cape  Breton  stations,  St.  Peter's  and  St.  Anne's,  he  must 
iiave  traversed  tiic  Bras  d'Or,  and,  perchance,  less  than  any  ex|)lorer  of  this  continent 
would  he  find  changes  in  the  country  with  v/hich  he  was  once  familiar.  The  hillsides 
have  been  somewhat  cleared,  there  are  houses  and  a  church  about  the  lovely  little 
lagoon  at  Christmas  IslantI,  a  village  and  a  settled  countryside  at  Baddeck,  a.id  late 
harvests  ripen  on  Boularderie  Island.  North  of  the  Bras  d'Or  are  mountain  ranges 
encircling  lakes,  and  dividec  by  rivers,  the  valleys  of  which  are  sheltered  and  fertile. 
Beyond  these  again  is  a  dreary  tableland,  and  within  seventy-five  miles  of  Newfound- 
land Cape  North  stands  in  silent  grandeur  above  the  surges  where  mingle  the  cur- 
rents of  the  gulf  with  the  waves  of  the  Atlantic. 

I  o  those  wliose  taste  is  robust,  the  Bras  d'Or  presents  a  succession  of  delights. 
The  shores  rise  here  into  gently  swelling  hills,  farther  on  into  forest-covered  mountain 
crag.s.  In  the  pellucid  waters  are  jelly-fish  of  tints  so  exquisite  that  the  name  of  any 
colour  seems  toe  crude  to  describe  their  hues.  The  outlook  at  one  time  expands 
over  a  vide  lake,  at  anothv..-  the  steamer  follows  a  silver  thread  through  the  Strait 
of  Barr;  --ong  arms  extend  beyond  sight  to  within  a  few  miles  of  the  Strait  of 
Canso  on  one   side  ;    on  the  other,  even  nearer  to   the  waters  of  Sydney  harbour. 

I  he  atmosphere  is  not  that  of  inland  landscapes  which  gives  hard  outlines  and 
harsh  colours.  It  has  the  cleirnes,  not  of  vacuity,  but  of  some  exquisitely  pure  liquid; 
and  blending  outlines  and  colotirs  save  the  wilder  regions  from  savage  roughness,  and 
throw  a  softness  over  all  which   adds  infinitely  to  its' charm. 

One  is  surprised  to  find  that  a  long  morning  has  been  spent    without    fatigue    bi^fore 
the  steamer    imsses    throi 


P 
Boidarderie    Island, 


the    wider    of    t! 


two    passages    w 


hich, 


ith 


f 


connect    the  lake    with   the    Atlanti*. 


To    the    1; 


ft'    suie    o 
stretch    the 


precipitous   shores    where    Smoky    Cape    in    the    distance  wears  above   its   purple   steeps 


'     illl 


'•I 
Ul 

'41 


..11 
'111 


tt\ 


m 


Wl  Jl:. 


118 


th<-   halo  ,)f 


y///:    Ji.lST/iAWW/iKS/'  h'//)(./: 


\'a|jiM  r  wliuli   siiL;of 


stcd 


lis    I 


•III"'.      On   the   ri^lu   hand   t 


m   isolated   rock   into  t 


)(■   sea   lias   uroiioju 


II'  si'inlilancc  of    a   h 


ii'i'i'   inrlli',   an 


IK 


ik   has   bctjii    iindiTmiiifd    in    lu,,   |ilacc-,   |i\    ij 
■\l   hcach.   in   shape   like  a  sU'cp-roolcd   warcl 


>!•    '.ni'tir 


d    larthiT    on 


Us  uii'l-coxcn 


lono    |)uint    of 
|ioint   anil   the 


time  tlu'v.  too.  will  sncfiinili,      Tlicn   af 
and    in    its   jilarc   will    remain   a   Ioiil;    and   d, 


loiise,   stand    isolated    and    i^annt    until 


ii'!'  sonii'   iiicnioi-alili 


th 


point   will   (lisa|)pear. 


iii''i'rons    rec 


The   I 


larhour  of   S\(liii'\,    sheltered, 


'  oniniodiiMi'-,   and   ol    eas\-   a( 


inaritinie   \aliir.      1  )in-in"    tiie 


:'iess,   is  of    no  mean 


season   ol    iKuiijalion   si 


troni    the    more    sonthi'rn    port-,    of    the    I'niled 

tor  hunker  coals  and    lie   chistiired    ahoni    ilie    rollier\-    wl 

with   the   mines   in   the   interior,     With    ih 

carry  illy    tc)al    to    .\l( 


earners    on    the    xovasje    to     I' 


nrope 


Slates,   and    from    tlie    St.    I, 


iwreiice,    c; 


iar\-es    which    i-ailr 


oaiis    connect 


ese    are    sonie    ol    the    maiU'    Slea 


mers  en"a<>cd   m 


)ntreal,   and    linmhler  (raft    which    supply   th 


taut    market- 


e    nearer  and    less    niiiioi-- 


he    mine    on    ihe    shun-s  of   ,S\(| 


th(;   e.xpo^etl    oiitports    in    which    \-essei 


\ilney   li.irlioin-  has   ereat   advanla 


"OS  o\cr 


s  take  in   (ar^d,     Mam    llsh 


ini;    and   tradine  scl 


10011- 


ers  he   off  th 


e   new    and    more  active   town   ol    \orih    S\ilne\-,  while  the   fr 


I'rench   and    Hr 


itisii    miMi-of-war   i^ixe    di-nilv     in    ihe    older   h 


<|nent   visits  nf 


he   harhoni-  divides    int 


o    two    Ljreat    arm-.,   ,ind 


on    a    |)eiinisiila     which     marks    tl 


entrance    to    the     Soiiij 


iw(.si    arm     stand-,    ili,-    i,,wn    ol     Svdiie\,    wliicl 


1     wa- 


hef. 


ore    the 


union    of  Cape    Hrelon   and    Xova   Scotia,    ill 


seal    ol    Government.       ,\t    th<'    end     of    th 


peninsula    are    th.-    rem.uiis    of    e.irthworks    ,ind    dilapidated    ,uid   d 


Sjarrison    wliicii    w.c   st.ilioiK 


■n-   until    the    (.'riniean    W 


lories    an     to    he    found    onlv   in    the    trad 


rearv  ipiarters  for  the 
ir.      OtlK'r    traces    of    ileparted 


have   not    tak 


"I'ln.ns    ol    ih,.    inh.iliitaiits.      Their  spleiuh 


en    more   coiiciete   shape 


St 


Hut   Sydney   at   ;'ii   earlier  da\    ihan    tl 
irriiiy  sceiK's.      {•reiicli   and    Mri;i-,h    lleet-,   | 


lal     ol     i|. 


ossession   li\    the    Hritisli    ha 


s    seen 


l.ive    made    Us    h; 


now.    in    peace.,   hut    as    a    point    of    \aiita.M      in     ll 


reiulcz\ous.    not,   as 


leir    slruL;-li-   Inr  tl 


where  on   its  shore-,.  Admiral    llovuden    W.dk.-r,  r. 


atjaiiist   () 


le  continent.      S( 


InrniiiL;    Irom    his  unsuccessful  attc 


nipt 


-"•'"'■   "'^    "I'  ''   '"'•"■'!    '"■"''■    I'v    his    -diip'.,    earpenter    claiming    ilie    ishnul    I. 


his  master.      liut    t 


W(i    yrea.t    sie 


'I'he  old 

ml 


'■"'    '"     '■'■'^nll     in     \i,i,,r\     hefon.    it     hecam 


name   of   S\(lne\.    .S 


e     liritish. 


I''"^''"''''^    "•'\'   '■'I'"-   li'iin   ,1   time   when,  although   the   lisl 


rouiKis  were   neutral,    lishemien   of  dillereni    n.ip.uial 


o   that  the  occasions  of  rekii 


ilies    resoi-ieil    lo   diHerent 


nil:. 


■  irhoiirs. 


dlini^    in  the    New    World  || 


a    battlcfiel 


ie  animosities  which  made  luirone 


d   niioiit,   as    ranch    ;is    possible.,    |„.    .uoided,         'j'l 


•Sydney.    th<.    {•rencli    to   St,    .\nne,    while    kainhsh    p.u'i.    il 


e    Spaniards    came    then   to 
"'   name   of    I  .ouishiinj    before   it 


oc'canie 


;i    I'lvnch    stroiii^rhold.    shows    thai     ii     had    lie,.|i     ihe    ,1 


ios(.it    r(.sor 


t      of      l' 


iisiiermen. 


X 


nojisli 


one    of    th,.se    nations    laid    1  Liim    1,,    || 


istice   depended    on    a   coi 


ISensils     ri|      I) 


le   <ustonis  which   Lrre 


enforce  it.        |'| 

of  this  neutralit).   are   fiill\    described   in    Mr     Hn 


"'    i-^land  :    there   w(.re   no   laws,   and 

I'iiii'in    .imon..    enough    tap'taius     01    ve.s.scis   able    lo 

"    "P   ""'l-'i'   lliis    condition   of  affairs,   and   the   value 


n's   "  I  [isl(U-\-    of    C^•lpe    Hret 


on. 


OF   Till-:   COXTlAliXT 


IK 


point  and  the 
;ainu  until  in 
will   (lis:i|)pcar. 


Loiiishuro     is    the    place    in     Ca|)('     Mrcton    ahnnt 


which    are    collected   most   iiistoric 


nienioiies  and   tiadit 


ions. 


Other  places    in    the     Hi 


lion    have    the    di^iiit\-   which    attaches    to    tl 


sc(,'ne    of 


:reat   deeds  ;    but   in    most    of   them    tl 


le    claims    of   the    present    on    the    attention   of   the 


iii 


Lawrence,   call 
roads    connect 


l\anta<4es  over 
I'adinij-  schoon- 


x'oiis.    not,   as 


ame     IJiitisli. 
1   the    lishin^ 


made  jMirone 


ame    then   to 


s.scis  able  i( 


visitor    are    insistent,        'I"he    c.iinmercial    marine    which    lies     in    the     stream    al     Oueh 


and    the    hustle    of   a    modern     town,    dr; 


iw    us    away     Iroin     the     memories    of    C'hamplain 


and    I'l-ontenac.    of   Wolfe    and     Montcalm.  it 


is    yet     mo|-e     dil'licilll     to     reali 


/<■    on    till 


th 


thamps    de    Mars    of   Montreal    tl 


Kriiain,    and   of   the    I 


lai    there    hax'e    Keen    paraded    the    armies    of    I-"r,ince.    of 


nited   States.       Hiu    uheii   one   looks  over    l.ouislmr".    he  sees  onl\ 


a   few   scattered    houses  alon-'   the    shori',   a    few     I'lshin-     hoats    in    the    de 

harbour.      The   life  of  lo-dav   has   not   stir  encni-h    to   ilisturb   whatever   reali/atiou   of    th 

past   his  inia,L;ination   Ik 

point    to    the    .Southwest 


'p    iaiul-lockci 


IS   power  to   frame.      It    seems   strange   to   think   that   on     that     h 


w.is    once    a   lortr 


ess    repii 


led 


which   was  of   lirst 


imprei^iiable,    a   town    the    trade   of 


in     .\ 


importance,   that,   although   it   was  the   key  to  the    !• 
merica,   it    was    twit.'    cajitured,   and    that    after    both     victories    V. 
\\    t 


reiich    possessions 


iiidisn    cities    -.wmX 


colonial    towns    w<-re    iliiiininated  and   thanksL,dvinir  services  held  in  all   th 


eir  cnurclies   in 


;ratitud(^   f(n'  a   cri 


owninir  victor 


Milt 


no 


camp-tires  now   twinkle   in   the  shadow  of  the  low  hills,   no  ships  of 


ps  ot  wur  are 


tiSi 


■111 


120 


THE   EASTRRXMOST  R/DGE 


i 


shut  into  the  harbour.  All  is  changed  except  the  outline  of  sea  and  shore,  and  the 
beating  of  the  surf  which  French  and  British  heard  in  the  intervals  of  fight.  Here, 
no  less  than  at  Quebec,  a  great  stride  onward  was  made  by  British  prowess.  ShoiiM 
not    some    memorial    be    raised    which    would    show    that    Canadians,    living  when    these 


NORTH    SiDNKY. 


I* 


animosities  are  dead,  are  still  mindful  of  the  great  deeds  done  on  Canadian  soil  .> 
There  could  be  no  fitter  site  than  tin;  old  burying  grountl  of  Louisburg,  where  French 
and  F:nglish  dust  commingles  in  peace,  and  where  the  ashes  rest  of  many  a  brave 
New   Englander  who  fought   and   fell   in   the  gigantic  strife   between   two  great  races. 

I  he  Island  of  Cape  Breton  is  loo  miles  long  by  80  wide,  and  covers  an  area  of 
2,000,000  acres.  Nearly  one-half  consists  of  lakes,  swamps,  and  lofty  hills.  The  coast 
line  is  275  miles  long,  and  the  centre  of  the  island  is  occupied  by  the  Bras  d'Or,  which 
nearly  divides  the  island  into  two.  Indeed,  St.  Peter's  Canal  has  effected  the  division. 
In  1 765  Cajie  Breton  was  anne.xed  to  Nova  Scotia.  Twenty  years  later  it  was  made  a 
separate  Province,  and  so  continued  til!  1S20,  when  it  was  again  united  to  Nova 
Scotia. 


The  people  of  Arichat  and   vicinity  are  almost  all   French.     The  rest  of   the  isl, 


mil 


is  peopled   mainly  by   Scottish    Highlanders,   who  still  cherish   their  ancestral   Gaelic,  and 


shore,  and  the 
fight.  Here, 
vess.  Should 
ig  when    these 


inadian  soil  ? 
tvlicre  Frencii 
ian\-  a  brave 
L-at  races, 
i  ail  area  of 
;.  riic  coast 
IS  d'Or,  which 
the  division. 
t  was  made  a 
ed    to     Nova 

af   the  islaiul 
I   Gaelic,   and 


OF   THE   CONTINENT 


121 


cling   to   the    ways    of   the    Highlands   and    Islands.     France    and  Scotland  were  friends 
three  hundred  years  ago,  and  for  many  centuries  before.     The  old  allies  meet  in  many" 
of  our  colonies,  and  rarely  fail  to  fraternize. 

The  fertile  valley  of  IMabou,  with  its  adjacent  glens  and  its  flanking  hills,  pays 
tribute  to  the  harbour  of  Port  Hood,  the  only  port  of  safety  on  the  west  coast  of 
Cape  Breton  north  of  the  Strait  of  Canso.  A  small  island  lies  half  a  mile  off  the 
harbour,  and  often  a  strong  current  rushes  between  it  and  the  mainland.  "The  oldest 
inhabitant"  remembers  when  this  passage  was  only  a  few  yards  wide  and  was  easily 
fordable.  But  the  woods  were  cleared  away  and  the  sea  made  a  clean  breach  over 
the  little  isthmus.  A  great  gale  came  and  ploughed  up  a  deep  channel,  which  has 
been  widening  these  sixty  years. 

Lake  Ainsiie  and  Margaree  River  are  dear  to  the  angler— rich  in  sea  trout  and 
salmon,  and  delightful  to  the  lover  of  beautiful  natural  scenery.  The  soil  is  fertile. 
The  fores'-  birch,  beech,  maple,  and  the  graceful  witch-elm,  cover  the  hills  to  their 
summits  a  thousand  feet  high.  The  roads  skirting  the  hills  are  like  avenues  through 
the  n.nodt  parks.  Nothing  can  be  more  charming  than  these  hills  and  valleys,  lake.s 
and  streams,  when  clad  in  the  gorgeous  tints  of  autumn,  or  the  living  green  of  summer. 
From  Baddeck  to  St.  Anne's  Bay,  thence  to  Cape  North,  over  moor  and  mountain, 
through  forests  dim  and  silent,  over  morasses  and  dreary  wastes,  is  a  route  becoming 
popular  with  the  lovers  of  adventure  when  moose  and  caribou  are  sought,  or  when  the 
angler  is  anxious  to  venture  beyond  the  beaten  round.  No  ride  could  be  desired  more 
beautiful  or  satisfying  to  the  eye  than  that  around  St.  Anne's  Bay.  This  harbour  is  a 
possible  competitor  for  the  advantages  of  being  the  point  where  trains  and  swift 
steamers  shall  meet  to  exchange  mails  and  passengers  when  the  "Short  Route"  shall 
have  been  established.  Great  ships  can  lie  .so  close  to  the  lofty  cliffs  that  water  may 
be  conveyed  into  the  ship  by  hose  from  the  rocky  bed  of  the  torrent.  The  French 
came  here  more  than  two  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago,  took  possession  of  the  bay,  and 
gave  it  the  name  tiiat  still  clings  to  it.     They  left  it  in  favotu"  of  Louisburg. 

Ingonish  is  a  little  secluded  village  hidden  among  the  boldest  hill  scenery  of 
Maritime  Canada.  Cape  Smoky  is  cloud-capped,  while  lower  hills  and  the  valleys  and 
shores  are  enjoying  bright  sunshine.  Deep  ravines  and  dark  gorges  furrow  the  sides 
of  the  hills;  and  from  commanding  heights  are  gained  ever  varying  views  of  the 
maje-stic  sea.  St.  Paul's  Island,  the  dread  of  mariners,  the  scene  of  many  a  fearful 
wreck,  stands  some  thirteen  miles  northeastward  from  Cape  North.  It  is  a  mass  of 
rock  three  miles  long  by  oni'  mile  wide,  exhibiting  three  peaks  over  500  feet  high- 
the  summit  of  a  sunken  mountain.  Thousands  of  lives  have  perishcil  on  this  little  spot, 
but  Science,  guideil   by   Humanity,   has    now  robbed  the   scene   of   nearly  all  its   terrors. 

Numerous  bays  and  headlands  have  their  story    to    tell    of    battle,  of  shipwreck,  or 
wild  adventure.     Cape  Breton  itself,  a  low  headland  which  gives  its  name  to  the  whole 


!l 


iil 

iJI 
.11 
4I 

j; 


S9 


*:ii( 

i.:    lis 


a- 

If 

1.)  iri. 

\'.  r- 


77/£  ISAiiTI:R\MOST  RIDC.E 


.MIM.M.    ^11  KNKh       (  AI.I.IKIMAN     MlNKb. 


i.Ian.l,    rises  dili'Hy   Hear   Louisburfr.      llieix'  is  a  tradition  that    Vera//ano,  the    eminent 
I'lorenline  iliHCOVtM'ci-,  periHlicd  Iktc  witli   his  crew    at    tiie    hands    of    the    Indians.      He 


OF   THE   CONTINENT 


'2J 


sailed  into  the  Atlantic,  from  I'raiicc.  in  15-5.  and  was  never  authentically  heard  of. 
Who  knows  but  his  bones  moulder  in  Cape  Hreton  ?  British  explor(rrs  came  here  before 
the  close  of  the  sixte<-nth  centur\.  In  16^9  Lord  Ochiltree,  with  sixty  Scottish  emi- 
grants, tried  to  found  a  colony  ;  l)ut  the  French  put  a  summary  ^wA  to  the  enterpris<>. 
It  was,  Jiow.'ver.  a  curious  prelude  to  the  trrcat  cmi.orration  of  Highlanders  in  the  nine- 
tcenth  century  to  which  Cape    Breton   owes  so   much. 

Next  to  farminj,^-  and  llshino-,  coal  niinin.<r  is  x\\v  most  important  industry  in  Caj.e 
Hrcion,  The  coal  fields  arc  even  more  <";aensivc  than  those  of  Nova  .Scotia.  Twelve 
collieries  arc  in  operation.  .Some  of  the  mines  yield  the  best  coal  yet  found  in 
America  for  donu'stic  purposes.  Souk;  arc  far  awa\  under  tlie  si-a :  some  down  in  the 
iicari  of  the  Jdils.  Coal  minino  commenced  in  Cape  Breton  in  i  jcSs.  Indeed,  iJoston 
Puritans  wcr.'  wont  to  warm  themselves  and  boil  their  tea-kettles  by  means  of  .Sydney 
coal   \o\v^   before   the   chests   were  emptied    into    Boston    harboiu". 

Have  you  ever  been  down  in  a  mine?  If  not,  ;i  new  sensation  awaits  you  -an 
e.xperience  decidedly  diifcrent  from  an\tliin-  to  be  enjoyed  or  suffered  on  the  face  of 
mother  .'arth  anil  in  the  litrlu  „f  ihe  sun.  Cohl,  dark  -darker  than  any  midnijrht 
-loom  you  may  stand  by  a  i)illar  a  thousand  yards  away  from  dayh^ht.  The  noise 
of  pick  and  shovel  afar  off  is  ^hostl)  and  unearthly.  Human  voices  are  heard;  or 
there  is  the  rumble  of  co,d  lailen  cars  hastt^nin.^  to  discharo'e  their  burden.  Reminis- 
cenc<>s  of  Paradise  Lost  and  the  Inferno  come  unbidden  and  irresistibly,  (llimmerino- 
lamps  irive  needed  li,<rht  and  no  more.  bi-ures  movin-  about  with  one  bio-  "cyi,."  j,, 
their  foreheads,  what  are  they  but  Cyclopean  i^iants :-  In  the  Albion  Mines,  in  the 
Pictou  coal  field,  there  is  proof  enou!.,di  that  fires  have  been  raoino  above  and  below 
for  the  past  fourteen  years.  The  lony,  dark,  but  well-aired  passages  through  which 
vc  wander  arc  cool  enough  ;  but  a  hint  of  smoke  is  a  hint  of  fire,  which  is  by  no 
means  W(-lcome. 

By  wa\  of  preparation,  xou  mi^rht  first  visit  a  ^old  mine,  which  is  seldom  verv 
<l«'ep.  Vou  may  have  to  o(,  f:,,-  i„to  the  lonc'ly  woods  to  reach  the  "  Diooinos."  or 
they  may  lia[)pcn  to  be  near  the  (hieen's  highway,  or  lie  close  to  the  sounding  sea. 
There  are  at  present  Iwenty-.iglu  -Diggings"  in  Nova  Scotia.  Many  have  been  tried 
and  exhaiisK'il.  Nobody  knows  hov\  many  r  ■(;  still  to  be  cliscovcrc:d.  Usually  where 
the  most  precious  of  metals  is  to  be  found  nothing  else  distracts  jour  attention- 
nothing  but  the  hard  rock  and  the  ice-like  (juartz-  no  fertile  soil,  no  tempting  oak 
or  pine;  no  coal,  no  iron:  notning  but  barrenness  and  gold!  An  Indian  stooping  to 
drink  at  a  brook  is  creilited  with  the  discovery  of  gold  in  Nova  Scotia  some  twenty- 
hve  years  ago.      It  was  accident,  of  course,  a  shining    speck,  precious    and    yellow,   in    a 


)iece  of  snow-white  quartz.     Then  t 


lie 


irospector"  went  out  with  hammer,  pick,  shoi 


Irill,  and  fuse  ;    and   he  found  numberless    places    where   gold  might,  could,  and    shoul 
le.     Only  in   a    few    places,  however,  has   gold    been    found    in    really    paying   quantit\ 


.'I 

J4 


Si? 
91 


umt 

H.11 

•111 
.■» 
-J 


//'  I 


5- 

.1 1'iii: 


l! 


124 


///£  EASTERNMOST  R/fHin 


I.OIJISHUK( 


S 


,H 


jje 


A  "lead  "of  quartz  is  found  carefully  wedg«l  in  lo^Wf^fM  t-not-nious  masses  of  slate  and 
quartzite.  The  veins,  or  "leads,"  are  usually  milky  whilt-  and  almost  translucent,  and 
they  range  in  thickness  ironi  an  inch  to  several  fm-t.  Unfortunately,  you  cannot 
depend  upon  them,  for  they  are  "faulty"  and  imcertaiii  ;  and  the  best  producer  of  this 
year  may  prove  barren  and  useless  next  year.  Th.^  whitest  .|uartz  is  not  usually  the 
richest  in  gold.  Miners  prefer  what  is  grayish  or  l.-adtMi  in  colour.  They  often  follow 
a  "lead"  of  this  sort  from  loo  to  250  feet.  .Stamping  mills  are  erected  as  near  the 
pits  as  practicable,  and  they  are  run  by  water  power  whfre  it  is  available,  and  often  hx 
steam  power.  When  30U  approach  a  gold  digging  the  hrst  imlication  of  proximity  is 
the  ceaseless  monotonous  thud,  thud,  thud  of  the  Nlampers  which  do  the  work  in 
the  crushing  mills. 

Since  1S62  about  half  a  million  tons  of  quartz  have  been  crushed  in  Nova  Scotia, 
yielding  over  six  and  a  half  million  dollars  of  g,.|.l,  lughteen  hundred  and  eighty- 
three  was  the  most  profitable  year  in  proportion  to  Hu;  number  of  men  engaged  in"  the 
work,  their  earnings  amounting  to  $2.84  each  per  day.  I'hc  largest  yield  "in"  any  one 
year  was  in  186;,  when  27.3,4  ounces  were  obtained.  'Ihe  ounce  is  worth  at  least  $18. 
No  great  fortunes  are  likely  to  be  made  in  our  gold  mining;  but  .t  is  now  demon- 
strated that  if  prosecuted  with  due  care  it  will  pay,  h  m  now  ranked  as  one  of  our 
permanent  industries. 

Gypsnm  is  quarried  in  Hants  (^ounty  and  esp^.ftrd  to  the  United  Stales,  mainl) 
ior  fertilizing  purposes.  The  cp.arries  are  vast  an.l  Inexhaustible.  Great  deposits  of 
iron  ore  have  been  discovered   in  various  sections    of    the    ••ountry,  either    in    immediate 


OF   Till-:   CONTINENT  125 

contijruity  to  the  coal  areas  or  witliin  easy  reach  of  them.  This  collocation  of  miner- 
als seems  to  prophesy  unmistakaMy  the  future  manufacturing  .greatness  of  the  country. 
Manjranese,  lead,  silver,  antimony,  copper,  have  been  discovered  in  workable  quantities. 
I^ut  the  mining  interest  which  overtops  all  the  rest  in  Nova  Scotia,  as  well  as  in  Cape 
Mreton,  is  that  of  coal.  Tlie  capital  invested  in  the  coal  mines  is  nominally  twelve 
million  dollars.  I'or  many  years  only  one  company,  th(;  General  Mining  Association, 
was  allowed  to  open  mines  in  the  Province— a  Royal  Duke  having  a  monopoly  of  all 
(.ur  hidden  wealth.  This  monopoly  was  broken  some  twenty-six  years  ago.  The  result 
was  a  very  rapid  development  of  coal  mining,  attended  in  many  cases  with  heavy 
pecuniary  loss.  For  a  time  tlure  was  progress ;  then  came  a  dismal  relapse— a  collapse, 
almost,  the  trade  with  the  United  States  having  been  totally  destroyed.  Hut  of  laf 
there  is  advance  again  which  bids  fair  to  be  permanent. 

•|"he  carbonif.'rous  formation  of  Nova  Scotia  is  about  fifteen  thousand  feet  deep. 
The  coal  measures  proper  are  about  ten  thousand  feet.  Our  coal  beds  contain  one 
hundred  and  ninety-six  different  speci(-s  of  trees  and  plants,  fifty-four  of  which  are 
peculiar  to   Nova  Scotia. 

These  var\    in   size   from   the  tree    two    feet    in    diameter    to    the    slender    moss    and 
invisible  spore   cases.      Trees    ordinarily    contiibuted    nothing    to    the    coal    beds    except 


■%iV,: 


'P* 


LAKE    C  ATA  LONE. 


'IK 


i. 


life 


126 


THE  EASTERNMOST  RIDGE 


their  barks  an<l  th,-  Crmer  tissue  of  tiieir  leaves.     I'jants  of    all   sizes  coi..ril)iitcd    tlu'Ir 

.:ortical  tissues,      it  will  tax  imagination  to  the  utmost  to  realize  the  lonjr  a,L(es  taken   in 

fillinjj  up  these  vast  seams  in   th<-   Pictou    c-oa!    l.asin.     'IMie    plants    and    trees    that    are 

compressed   into  these  seams  <rre\v,  (lourisiied,  died,  d<.cayed   here.     There  was  no  jrather- 

in-  in   of   huoe   forests   from   distant   localities  to    form    these    treasures  ;    where    the    ire.- 

fell   it   perisheil  ;    wluM-e   tlie   plant  -rew   it   was   turntid    into    coal-all    that    would  remain 

of  it.      Very   inter.'stin^;   f„ssils  of  tin-   carboniferous  ayes  are   found    associated    with    our 

coal    beds.       The    footprints    or    th.i    remains    of    reptiles,    of    snails,   of  spiders  and   other 

insects    have    been    identified.       The    lirst   trace    of    reptilian   existence   in   the   coal   perio.l 

was  found   at    llorton    Bluff,    Nova   .Scotia,   by   Sir   William    l.ooan.       They  used   to    know 

Hercules    i,y    his    foot.      Well,   they    mad.-    out    the    very    likeness    of    this    poor  forlorn 

creature    that   travelled   in   the    mud   Hats  of   Horton   millions    of    y.;ars  aj(<,.       T|H,y   have 

given   us  his  portrait,  and   imparted    on   the    creature    a    very   hard    name.       The    r.-ptiles 

of    the    coal    a-es    wer('    fond    of    eatin-  one  another,   though   the  world   was  young    and 

no   men  lived   to  set  a  bad  example  ! 

Nova  Scotia  is  proud  of  her  mines  and  minerals,  her  uoKI,  jn.n,  and  "black  dia- 
monds." To  develop  her  n-sources  will  be  a  work  of  tim<-  ;  but  the  process  is  ooin- 
on  rapidly  .mder  the  eye  of  the  men  of  to-day.  Coal  and  iron  in  abundance  sidit  by 
side  mean  that  manufacturing  industry  must  surely  flourish  here.  New  (llasgow,  Acadia 
Mines,  the  Vale,  Stellarton,  Westville,  Nortl>  Sydne>  are  places  that  can  hardl)-  fail  to 
rise  to  importance  as  centres  of  enterprise  and  progress.  The  wealth  stored  up  in  the 
bosom  of  the  earth  countle.ss  ages  ago  lies  to-day  at  our  feet  to  be  utilized. 


\' 


T:. 


OF    THE   COXT/.yj-XT 


ij; 


CH.\kl.(/l  I  I.  lOWN. 


:i 


•  < 

•I 
.1 


P  I^  I  N  C  E    E  D  W  A  F(  D    I  S  L  A  N  D.* 


pKINCh:  l":n\VARI)  island,  the  .tjem  f)f  tlu-  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  lies  in  the 
-*■  bosom  of  the  gri^at  Acadian  Haj',  \vhicli  extends  southward  from  an  imaginary 
line  drawn  from  Cape  North,  Cape  Hnton,  to  Point  Miscoii,  at  the  entrance  of  Maie 
des  Chaleurs.  The  "silver  streak"  of  the  Strait  of  Northumberland  separates  it  Ironi 
the  mainland.  From  all  higher  points  of  the  Cohetpiiil  hills,  antl  from  the  Mahoii  iiills 
in  Cape  Breton,  I^-ince  Ldward  Island  may  be  seen  on  the  distant  verge  of  the  north- 
ern horizon,  closing  it  in,  like  dim  unvarying  cloud.  The  silver  streak  is  often  dolled 
with  ships;  it  is  sometimes  calm  as  a  mirror,  sometimes  rough  with  curling  bilious; 
but  the  dun  line  beyond  changes  not  for  storm  or  calm.  To  the  sjiectator  on  il<e 
southern  coast  of  the  Island  the  Nova  Scotian  hills  ])ut  on  their  best  appi'arance,  rising 
in  proportions  that  satisf\-  the  eye.  and  nnining  in  long  dusky  ranges  from  west  lo 
cast.  "The  Island,"  as  it  is  fondly  called  by  its  p(-ople,  is  about  i;,o  miles  long.  lis 
area  is  2,133  ^qH'H't'  miles.  No  mountain,  no  stubborn  hills  nor  barren  wilderness,  no 
stony  land  nigh  unto  cursing,  no  desolate  heath  — the  Ishuul  boasts  that  har<ll\  ,1 
sipiare  yard  of  its  surface  is  incapable  of  repaying  the  husbandman's  toil.  It  has  a  line 
friable    loamy    soil,   rich    and    deep,  and    with    the    means  of    enriching  it  close  at  hand. 


:;.^?i 


sit 
.4- 


!ft!! 


■  m\\ 

;    'Jf!! 

:  t: 

V|! 

:           Kil 

'i    '      **" 

128 


T//Ji   EASTERNMOST  RIlHili 


,^i 


IKOM  I'icrou  TO  (;k(iki;i- KiWN, 


sr 

fm". 


»•  „     In 


Vhv  (;.ce  of  tlic  country  is  -iiinly  undulating,  like  a  sea  which  Iiiis  sol)be(l  itself  to  rest, 
l)ul  has  some  rcuKMnbrance  still  of  a  far-off  storm.  These  h)W-K  in-  hills  which  ri")  'he 
country  from  north  to  south  are  but  the  siumberin,^  waves  of  that  ciuiet  sea.  Every- 
where you  are  near  the  salt  water  and  can  enjoy  its  bracin-  breath  from  strait  or  lonjr. 
arnKHl  crec-k  or  cove,  or  from  tiie  .threat  Gulf  itself.  ■{'houKh  the  country  is  level  and 
fertile,  and  free  from  any  too  obtrusive  hills,  it  aboimds  in  sprin.s^s  and  streams  of  the 
purest  water.  Where  a  biibblinjr  fountain  is  not  near  at  hatid,  a  W(;ll  is  sure  to  bring 
up  water  without  the  need  of  digging  many  feet  from  the  surface.  Not  Ireland  itself 
is  clad  in  richer  green  than  our  lovely  Island  when  simimer  has  be.stowed  upon  it  its 
crown  of  glory.  The  reddish  soil  cropping  out  her.;  and  there  throws  into  sweeter 
relief  the  tender  green  of  meadow  and  lawn  and  ri(  h  fields  which,-  at  the  right  time, 
will  wave  with  golden  grain.  In  the  six  weeks  from  the  middle  of  June  till  the  end 
of  July  it  is  a  i,at-adis(!  of  verdure,  bloom,  foliage;  no  stimled  growth,  no  blight  or 
mildew  to  break   the  toiling  farmer's  heart. 

In  the  central  districts  of  the  I.sland  the  forests  still  remain,  presenting  great 
breadths  of  dusky  green,  more  or  less  thinned  by  tin-  woodman's  axe.  The  nobles 
of  our  northern  clime,  the  birch,  the  maple,  the  beech,  the  pine,  still  rear  their  stately 
heads.  But  here  as  elsewhere  the  best,  the  grandest  wert;  the  first  victims  I  Enough 
remain  to  testify  of  the  fine  crop  that  nature  raised  long  ago.  There  was  a  time  when 
the  maple  was  so  abundant  that  the  people  made  from  its  .sap  most  of  the  sugar  th<"y 
required,  but  that  time  has  xanished  like  the  golden  age.      In  some  districts  the  forest 


OF   TIIH   CONTINENT 


139 


i 


fe^- 


(1  itself  to  rest, 

^  which  ri')  Mk; 

;   sea.      Ever\  - 

strait  or  ionjf- 

ry  is  level  and 

streams  of  the 

sure  to  bring 

Ireland  itself 

d    upon    it    its 

■s  into  sweeter 

he    right  time, 

e  till    the   end 

,  no  blight  or 

2senting  great 
The  nobles 
r  their  stately 
ins  I  Enough 
IS  a  time  when 
he  sugar  they 
icts  the  forest 


is  still  dense  and  dark,  fit  hiding  for  tiu;  poor  persecuted  remnant  of  the  game  once  so 
abundant.  Every  year  the  breadths  of  cultivated  laiui  are  increasing,  and  the  old 
dominion  ol  tlie  woods  is  becoming  more  ami  more  restricted.  WC  have  haidly  opened 
our  ears  to  the  cry,   "  .Sjiare  that  tree  !  " 

There  is  a  tradition  to  the  (effect  that  Prince  iulward  Island  w.i  discovered  by 
Cabot  in  1497  or  1498;  but  this  is  at  least  doubtful.  That  Jac(pies  Cartier  must  have 
seen  the  low-lying  coast  as  he  sailed  up  the  St.  Lawnnce  then-  need  be  no  doubt. 
Hut  the  honour  of  first  naming  the  island  and  taking  p,)ssession  of  it  for  IVance  must 
be  accorded  to  Champlain.  ".Si.  Joii.n  "  was  the  name  he  gave  it.  in  honour  of  the 
Jhv  on  which  he  discovered  it,  and  .St.  John  it  coniinut'd  to  be  called  for  nearly  two 
centiirie.s.  In  1 7S0  the  legislature,  acting  on  the  suggestion  of  C.overnor  Patterson, 
pas.scd  an  /\ct  changing  th.-  name  to  .\ew  Ireland.  This  wa.  angrily  di.sallowed,  on 
the  ground  that  the  legislature  should  have  petitioned  for  the  change,  instead  of  pass- 
ing a  "presuni|.cuou.  ict,"  which  was  a  breach  o^  "common  decency."  In  1 79.S  the 
legislature  passed  an  .\ct  (hanging  the  name  to  Prince  Iulward,  in  honour  of  the  Duke 
of  Kent.  I'l-.is  .Act  ua-.  allowed  in  1709,  and  the  new  name  entered  into  popular  use 
in  iScx).  riie  Duke  never  visited  the  Island,  but  did  all  he  could  to  promote  its 
mai('rial   int'  rests. 

The  i'lench  can^d  lor  th.'  Isiard  chielly  for  its  fisheries  and  furs.  In  1663  all  the 
islands  in  the  C.vvA  of  St,  Lawrenc<;  were  granted  to  Captain  Doublet,  for  the  purpo.se 
of   developing   a    -grand   fishery."       He  and  his   associates  retained  th(-ir  grants  till  the 


'•-'s,. 


*A 


«| 


CROSSINC;     NOKMII'MHKIO.ANU     SrRAlT. 
From  C.ipe  Tornientine  to  Cape  Traverse. 


!:» 

n<i|i 
am: 

■:iii  '\ 


r 


?  r 


'3^ 


■mii  HAsii-RXMosr  laiHiE 


;r:,^j3  -i«^i.<l 


lo/ifH    i^usrjcr/ 


MACKEREL    FISHING. 


'•^mHB^t^ 


OF  HIE  awr/N/iNT  13, 

h-ijinning   of  tho   ..ijirluoonth    century.       I-ishermon  came  in  the  sprinr;  an.l   wont   away 

in    the   autumn-in.rr    •  l.ir.ls   of   passaRC."       Traders    I.oukIu  the    furs' prepareil  l.y  th.. 

Indians,  yiviny   in    exchange    the    spirits    and    cheap   goods    in    which    tl...-    Micmac    soul 

d.:Iightcd.       Hut  good  huid  was  too  pi,  ntifui  on  this  side  the    sea  to  l.e  eagerly  sought 

out  for  coU,nizalion.      So  our  beautiful  gem  of  the  Gulf  lay  in  unappn  dated  solitude  for 

centuries,  while  in  the  old  world  contending  armies  fought  for  little  jiatchrs  of  territory. 

In   171.3   Newfoundland  and  Acadia  were  ceded   to  Great   Hritain.   1« ranee  still  held- 

.ng  Cape   Breton  and  "  S,,  Johr,."       French  settlers  then  came  in  consid.-ral.le  n.unbers. 

some  Acadians  seeking  refuge   h.-re  und.T  the   Hag  they   loved  so    well.       Charlottetown 

was  "Fort   la  Joie,"  and   it   was  garrisone.l   I,y  a   body  of  sixty   iMvnch   soMiers.       It  was 

one  in  the  famous  series    of  fortified   posts-  Louisbnrg,    i'ort   la    Joi..,    Haie   Verte,    Uai.: 

Chaleurs.  Tadousac.  Quebec.       In    .75.^  the  population  numbered    .,,,54;    but  the  innish 

of  the  Acadians  raised  it  in    1  75S  to  over  4,000 -some  say   ro.ooo.       Th.;  eventlnl    year 

1763  saw  the  Island,  in  common  with  Cape  Breton  and  other  French  possessions,  handed 

over  fmally  to  (Ireat   Hritain.       ".St,  John"   was  valued  because  it    lav    in    the    pathway 

>.f  commerce  in   the  Gulf.       It  was  at  once  annexed    to    Nova   Scotia,  and    its   Acadian 

miiaoitants  began  to  scatter,  fearing  the  hand  of  the  conqueror.      Some  were  removed  ; 

".any.  dreading  forcible  ejection,  hastened  to  the  mainland,  and  sought  shelter  in  Lower 

Canada.       The  British  garrisoned  "Port  la  Joie."  and  steps   were   taken    to   show   thar 

liie  new-comers  had  come  to  stay. 

In  1764  the  British  Government  sent  out  Captain  Holland  to  make  a  survey  of 
tile  Island,  with  a  view  to  its  colonization.  The  task  was  part  of  a  vast  plan  for  the 
survey  of  the  far-extending  Britisii  possessions  on  this  continent,  and  it  was  being  steadily 
carried  out  till  the  War  of  Independence  inaugurated  a  new  order  of  things,  leaving  it 
to  other  authorities  to  map  out  and  survey  one-half  of  North  America  I  Captain  Hoi- 
land,  with  swift  hand  and  keen  eye.  did  his  work  in  one  twelvemonth,  and  did  it  so 
faithfully  that  to  this  day  his  landmarks,  notes,  observation.s,  and  descriptions  are  justly 
regarded  as  authoritative. 

John  Stewart,  in  his  "  Account  of  Prince  Edward  Island,"  published  in  London 
eighty  years  ago.  .says  that  the  Acadians  on  the  Island  instigated  the  Indians  to  deeds 
of  barbarity  against  the  English,  and  that  when  Lord  Rollo's  troops  took  possession 
tney  found  "a  considerable  number  of  English  scalps  hung  up  in  the  French  Govern*)r's 
house.'-  Stewart  adds  that  "  it  is  not  denied  by  the  old  Acadian  French  still  living 
on  the  Island  that  they  were  very  partial  to  this  .savage  practice  of  their  neighbours% 
with  whom,  Indeed,  they  were  very  much  assimilated  in  their  manners  and  customs." 
Possibly  these  statements  originated  in  an  unconscious  desire  to  justify  the  harsh  treat- 
ment to  which  the  Acadians  were  in  some  ca.ses   subjected. 

The  survey  ot  the  island  having  been  completed.  Lord  Egmont  came  to  the  front 
witn  a  project  for  its  settlement,  which  to  this  day  stands    out  as  a    marvellous   anach- 


•  I 

il 
II 

.1 

I! 


gap 


;iMm 

I'* 


1  ;       6i  1 


n«fc. 


a: 


I  ?2 


y///:-  JiAST/iRNMOar  RIDGE 


mill 


sm,  an    effort,  grotesque    enoiiah,    1 


America  in  the  eigliteenth  cen 


'ut    sine 


wliat  an 


tiiry  the  feudal 
easy  matter  it  would    be    for   ;dl    A 
of  the 


■ere    and    persevering;,    to    transplant    int.. 
\^m  of  the   fourteenth.       Had  he  succeeded, 


mcrica    to 


,,  ,    ,  .  '^'•'T   ''lis  way  for  a  livintj  studv 

oi  one  of  the  most  nUeresting  phases  of  Unropoan  civilization.  Three  times  in  three 
successive  year.s  did  the  enthusiastic  E.mont  sul.mit  his  plans  and  ur,e  them  upon  the 
proper  authont.es  .vith  wonderful  learning  and  eloquence,  and  with  prophecies  of  suc- 
cess that  might  wen  .indie  .he  enthusiasm  of  even  a  monarch  of  the  hou.se  of 
Hanover.  He  was  to  he  himself  Lord  Pannnount  of  the  Island.  Under  him  in 
regular  gradation  would  be  lords  of  Hundreds,  lords  of  Manors,  and  Freeholders 
Counties,  baronies,  capitals,  towns,  villages  were  all  to  be  carefully  mapped  out' 
There  was  to  be  a  great  central  castle,  and   n,inor    castles  or  blockhouses  in  tlL  centre 

of   every    block    of    eight    square  miles.  In    case    of  dmm.r    .1,1                  <  ■   ,         ■ 

,      ,,      ^  .          ,  ''^"     '"   "'"Iger,   the    alarm  would  be  triven 

by      e     r,„,  0,  cannon    from  cas.l,,    =„  ca«l,.,  „  .i,,,,.,  .,,icl,  ....IcI    .™„Je  ev.ry  n,,,",, 

on  the  Ishnd  ,o   be   nnder   nrm,    in    .-,  ,„.,,,,.,.   „,   ,„    ,,„„       „,,„^„    ^,,            J 

:"7;  ''T1'  :'l"""' '-""'  '■^■^ ■■■  '""■  ""■  "-"^  •"  '--'--^  ^^^^  '"■-  ■■• 

g-..n,   of   a    hnnclrcd    ll,„,„an.l    acr„,   wl.ij,.   I,„„,;v„,,   |,o    „,„„|a  „„,  „„    ,,      ^.^^  „.,, 

ius  feudal  system  or  nothing.       Surelv   I  .n  I    l.'n.n«.,f    i 

,     ,        ,  "  "-'^    ^"'  '   ''-yiO'it  deserves    to    be   remembered    here 

and   elsewhere. 

And    now    the    British    Government   took    a    step    in    respect    to  the  island  of    St 
John,    which  proved  a  fruitful  source  of  trouM,.  f,.r  nearly  a  hundred  vears       A   "  hnd 

q.>est.n"  was  created  which  perplexed  polit m ...omists.  peasants!  and' proprietors. 

The  Island  was  divided  into  si.xty-seven  "lots,"  or  sections.  All  these,  except  three 
were  disposed  of  by  lot  in  one  day.  The  I.|;,„d  was  then  annexed  to  Nova  Scotia" 
The  persons  to  whom  the  grants  w.re  made  had  claims  more  or  less  real  and  tangible' 
upon  the  British  Government.  They  receive.,  .heir  -Mots"  on  condition  of  .settling 
one  Luropean  P.-otestant  for  each  two  hundred  acres.  ,f  no  such  settlement  were 
made  with,,,  ten  years  the  land  would  lapse  to  ,he  Crown.  They  were  also  to  pay 
ce-.n    qu,t    reus,   by    no    means    one,-ous.         „,     ,  ;„S     the    proprietors,   who    nearly^^i 

i  he,r  prayers  were  granted,  and  a  new  Provim.e  was  set  up  uith  its  Governo^egislative 
Counc,U.nd  C  eneral  Assembly.  The  population  at  that  date  consisted  of  b,;a  hun- 
cd  aud  hf  y  bundles.  Thirty  years  afterward,  when  an  accurate  census  of  the  colony 
-s  taken,  the  number  was  found  to  be  4.37.  Walter  Patterson,  one  of  the  p,-oprietor^ 
-^  apponufd  1  ,eute,iant.Governor.  The  provision  made  for  this  representltive  ol 
Majesty  was  mode,  enough  to  please  the  sternest  of  economists.  When  he  arrived  in 
.770  It  was  estimated  that  the  quit  .ents  to  be  p.ud  by  the  proprietors  would  yield 
^1.4.0.  Of  this  amount  Governo-  Patterson  was  to  receive  /,-5oo :  his  Secretarv  a,a 
Kegistrar,   ^150;  the  Chief  Justice,   ^:  '  '      " 


England  clergyman,  ^"100.      Th 


ioo;    the   Attorney. General,    ^100;    the  Church  of 


ese  officers  might,  p.Tliaps.  have  lived  sumptuousl 


!y  upon 


OF   THE   CONTIAENT 


«.W 


transplant    into 
id  he  succeeded, 
■  a  living  study 
times  in  three 
them  upon  the 
iphecies  of  suc- 
the    house    of 
Under    him    in 
^     Freeholders, 
mapped    out. 
^  in  the  centre 
I'ould   be  given 
Ijle   every  m;'.ii 
last    the  (Jov- 
offered    him  a 
pt.      Give  iiini 
lembered   here 

Island  of  St. 
rs.  A  "land 
id  proprietors. 

except    tliree. 

Nova  Scotia, 

and  tangible 
'n  of  settling 
tlement   were 

also  to  pay 
lo   nearly   all 

government, 
r,  Legislative 
f  but  a  hun- 
of  tile  colony 
2  proprietors, 
:;sentative  of 
he  arrived  in 

would  yield 
ecretary  and 
e  Churcn  of 
uously  upon 


their   salaries    if    those    salaries    had    been    paid  ;    but   the   proprietors    forgot    all    about 
quit  rents,  as  well    as   about    their    other   obligations,  and    Governor.  Chief  Justice,   and 

parson,  all  alike,  had  to  feel 
the  sharp  pinch  of  wa.it,  and 
to  seek  relief  in  ways  th.it 
would  hardly  meet  the  ap- 
probation of  modern  moral- 
ists. The  British  Govern- 
ment granted  /,';,, "Oo  for  a 
public    building    ;it    Charlotto- 


LOBSTIiR    CANNING. 


town.       This  Slim 

the  Governor  lai( 

hands    ujjon     in 

order     to     relic-ve 

present      distre.ss. 

The   Goxcrnment 

had  enjoined  upon 

Governor  Patter- 
son to  "  take  es- 
pecial care  that 
Goil      Almiglu\- 

should  b..  devoutly  and  duly  served  throughou,  the  colony,"  and  they  U.ft  him  .n  st.-.l 
a  l.vmg  out  of  a  public  grant  for  a  public  building  Patterson  made  a  clean  breast 
..f  a,  .showed  the  necessitous  circumstances  in  which  he  was  placed,  suggested  a  plan 
for  collecting  a  revenue  and  ref.mding  the  ./:;„oco.  and  escaped  censure.  In  ^^r  i 
constitution  modelled  upon  that  of  Great  Hritain  was  granted  to  the  colony  \n 
>776  two  war  vessels  fron,  the  United  States  nuule  a  descent  upon  Charlottetown  and 
earned  away  the  leading  men  and  maiu'  valuables.  Washington  rebuked  the  officious 
pnvateer..  and  sent  back  the  captives  with  all  their  property  to  (1,arlotteto.  n -a 
graceful  act  of  courtesy  never  forgotten  in   Prince  Etlward   Island, 

And  now  began  the  land  troubles  of  the  Island  in  sa.l  earnest.  No  ouit  rents 
were  ,,a.d,  and  scarcely  an  effort  was  made  to  bring  new  settlers  by  the  absentee  pro- 
pnetors.  I  he    Legislature    passed   laws    authorizing    the    sale    of    the    forfeited    lands 


n 
.1 


> 


-I 


(•■ 


'34 


7y//f  EASTERNMOST  RIDGE 


Governor  Patterson  devised  this  policy  and  bought  large  tracts  thus  sold.  But  thi 
Home  Government,  pressed  by  the  proprietors,  disallowed  the  Acts,  and  even  ordered 
an  Act  to  be  repealed  'vhich  had  been  several  years  on  tlic  statute  books,  and  under 
which  a  large  area  had  been  purchased.  Due  reparation  was  to  be  made  to  the  pur- 
chasers. The  repealing  Act  was  drawn  up  in  London  and  sent  out  to  Governor  Pat- 
terson to  i)c  subniitt.d  to  the  Legislature.  I'-oolishly  enough  he  withheld  tiie  Act,  and 
induced  the  Legislature  to  pass  another  Act  dealing  still  more  radically  with  the  land 
ciuestion.  'J'lus  Act  wa.  disallowed.  lie  himself  was  recalled,  and  the  Attorne>- 
(HMUial  dismissed.  Poor  Patterson  did  not  like  to  have  his  land  speculations  thus 
sununarily  marred.  Governor  Fanning,  of  Nova  .Scotia,  commissioned  to  relieve  him. 
arrived  at  Charlottetown  in  November  ;  but  Patterson  refused  to  give  up  his  office, 
declared  that  he  did  not  want,  .uid  could  not  accept,  "leave  of  absence,"  and  actually 
k<-'pt  possession  till  ne.xt  spring,  when  peremptory  orders  came  from  England  informing 
Patterson  that  'His  ALajesty  has  no  farther  occasion  for  your  services  as  Governor  of 
St.  John."  The  poor  fellow  had  spent  sixteen  years  on  the  Island,  and  had  done  his 
dut>-  falrl.N-  well.  He  went  to  England,  hoping  to  be  restored  to  the  Governorship, 
l>ut   was  disappointed,   of  course. 

Mis  extensive  i)roperty  was  sold  under  the  hard  laws  which  he  himself  had  devised, 
and   he  died   i)()or,   disappointed  and  heart-broken. 

GoNcrnors  .,nd  governments  came  and  went;  generations  were  born  and  buried,  but 
the    j.r.iprietors    continued    as    a    whole  to  be   utterly  oblivious  of  their  obligations,   and 
the    len.uits    continued    to    agitate.        Assemblies    complained,    petitioned,    memorialized, 
remonstrated,   threatens],   prayed,   begged,   swore,   but  all    to  little  or  no  purpose.       The 
propri.tors  had  the  ear  of    the    Home   (Government,   and    thwarted    every    measure    ema- 
nating  froir  the  tenantry  and  their  friends.       But  as  population  increased,   and  as  popu- 
lar influences  made  themselves  felt  in  the   Government   of    England,  the    power   of    the 
proprietors    became    less    and    less    irresistible,   and  the    Government  became    more    and 
more  amenable  to  reason.       Some  of    the  proprietors   sold    their    land    outright.      Some 
spent   mone\    in    encouraging    immigration    from    the    Scottish   Highlands.       A  majority, 
however,  clung  tenaciously  to  what  they  possessed,  exacting   all  they  could,  and  paying 
out  as  little  as  possible.       In    ,S6o,  at  the  suggestion  of   the  proprietors,  a  Commission 
was  appointed,   which  consisted  of  three  m.Mubers,    Hon.    Joseph   Howe  representing  the 
trn.mtry,   Colonel   Gra\-  representing  tiie    British   Government,   and    Hon.    J.     W.    Rkchie 
representing  tlu-  proprietors,       'I'he    Commissioners    h.ul    power   "to    enter    into    ,dl    the 
inquiries  that  ma\-  be  necessary,  and  to  decide  upon  the  different    questions  which  may 
be  brought  before  them."      The    Duke    of    Newcastle,  then    Colonial    Secretary,  desired 
to  be  assured   that  the  tenants  would   "accept  as    binding    the   decision  of  th.    Commis- 
sioners, or  a  majority  of  them,"      The  Commissioners  did  their  work  with  signal  ability. 
They  recommended  that  the   Imperial  Government  .should  guarantee  a  loan  of 


)ne 


hui 


5oId.       But  tin 

even    ordered 

dIvs,  and   under 

le  to    tlu!    pur- 

Govcrnor   I'at- 

1  tile  Act,  and 

willi   the  land 

the    Attorne}' 

nidations    thus 

0  relieve    him. 
lip    his    oHicc, 

and    actually 

land  informinj^ 

>  Governor    of 

liad    done  his 

Governorship, 

If  had  devised, 

nd  huried,  but 
)li<i;ations,  and 

memorialized, 
urpose.  Th<- 
measure    ema- 

and  as  popu- 
power  of  tile 
lie  more  and 
right.  Som(! 
A  majority, 
.1,  and  ])ayin^ 

1  Commission 
ireseniin"-  tin- 


\V 


itclii( 


into  all  th(! 
IS  which  may 
etary,  desired 
ihj  Comiiiis- 
signal  ability. 

of  one  hun- 


OF   THE   CONTINENT 


135 


dred  thousand  pounds,  so  as  to  enable  the  Island  Government  to  buy  out  on  favour- 
able terms  all  the  proprietors,  and  to  sell  the  land  to  tenants  and  other  settlers. 
Three  conclusions  forced  thems(>lves  upon  the  Commissioners:  that  tiie  original  grants 
ivere  improvident    and  ought   never  to   have  been   made  ;    that  all   the    grant:,  were  liable 


UlU(;iN(i   .mu.-;,i;l-.mud, 

to  forfeiture  for  breach  of  the  conditions  with  respect  to  settlement,  and  might  justly 
have  been  escheated  ;  and  ih.it  all  th<'  grants  might  have  been  practically  annulled  by 
the  enforcement  of  .piit  rents,  and  tlie  lands  seiz.'d  and  sold  by  the  Crown  without  the 
slightest  impeachment  of  its  honour.  l5ut  tne  sovereign  having  repeatedly  conlirmed 
the  original  grants,  it  was  impossibl.^  to  treat  the  grantees  otherwise  than  as  the  lawful 
possessors  of  the  soil.  L.mdlords  wert;  to  be  compelled  to  sell  ;in\-  lands  possessed  by 
them  over  fifteen  thousand  acres,  and  tiie  terms  of  sale  were  minulelv  detined.  All 
arr.Nirs  of  rent  beyond  three  )ears  preceding  May  i  wt.e  to  be  wiped  out. 
The  decisions   and   recomme 


tions  of  the  Commission  were  unanimous,  and 


reai 
the 


lily 
pro 


were 


accepted  by  the   Legislatiu-e   of  the   Island,   and  by  the    tenantry  interested;    1 
prietors  refused  to  be  bound  by  them,  and  sheltered  themselves  behind 


nit 


ingenious 


m 


;i 

.'I 
)* 


«r 


!¥ 


:3ii  \ 


jp 


lit 


h 


m 

H 

»  i  ,.  'Iff!; 

'  ^  ■  %' 

I  *»'l 

»!iii 

^iiilii 

'36 


yy//:"   EASTERNMOST  RIDGE 


tc-chnical   ol,j,.c.tio,m,        TIh-    I.npcrial    Government   would   not   entertain   the   proposal  to 

,t,n.arantc.e  a   loan,      Tlir   (|M.stion  continued   unsettled 

until    the   union   of    the    Island    with    Canada,  when    a 

sum    of    $Soi3,oo9    wi.s    plaa.d    at    the     -crvice    of    the 

Island     Govemmwil     for    the    lu.rpose    of    finally    di. 

posing    of    th..    dilluuiiy.       There    is    now    no    •'land 

question"  in    th..    Province    exc-'pt   that   of   cultivating 

the  land  to  ihti  yi-catest  advantage. 

The    i,rol.j..nt    of    government    is     sometimes    as 
perplexin.^r    ;„    „„,,||    , „„„„„„ii,Y.,    ^^^    ;,^    ^j^^    ^^^^^^^ 

Prince   lulward    InLmd    had   a   succession   of  very  com- 
petent LieiitunaiU-Go^crnors.      Hut  more  than  one  en- 


« 


te-ed  upon  his  duties  with  ideas  of  high 
prerogative  worthy  of  Charles  I.  Gov- 
ernor Smith,  who  "reigneil"  from  1813  till 
1824,  interfered  with  the  courts  of  justice  ; 
constituted  an  illegal  court  of  escheat;  re- 
fused to  receive  an  address   from  the  As- 


'"^^->-'  "^^  receive  an  address   from  the  As- 
sembly,   though    he   hnd   appointed   an   hour  for  its   reception  :    ordered   the  Assembly  to 


he   proposal  to 


:A 


leas  of  high 
"s  I.  Gov- 
om  1813  •'" 
s  of  justice ; 
escheat ;  rt- 
rom  the  As- 
I'Xssenibly  to 


OF   THE   CONTINENT  ,37 

adjourn  from   Dec.  ,5  to  Jan.  5:   .ent  his  son-in-law  to  threaten  tho  Honse  with  imm.  - 
d.ate   d.ssolution-the   said    son-in-Iau-  shaking    his   fist   at   Mr.   Speak-.r :    prorogued   th- 
Assembly  long  before  it  had   completed  its  business,  because  the  Assembly  had  impris- 
oned the  son-in-law  for  breaking  the  windows  of  Parliament   House;    appointed  another 
son-.n-law  to  the  Legislative  Council,  though  he  was  only  town-major  of  Charlottetown  ■ 
appomted    another   man    to    the    Council  who    had   been    dismissed  from    a  clerkship   in 
a    shop    and    who    took    to    retailing   spirits.       A    petition    to    the    King    for    the    (iov- 
ernor's  removal  was  a  matter  of  course;    but  the  Governc.-  was  ecjual  to   the  occasion. 
He   charged  the  petitioners  with   gross  libel   and  contempt  of  the    Court  of    Chancerv 
and  on  the  complaint  of  his  son-in-law  summoned  them  before  himself  as  judge  -      The 
comm.ttee   in   charge  of  the    petition  .as    ordered   into    the    custody  of  the    sergeant-at- 
arms.      The:r  leading  man,  however,  made  his  escape  to  Nova  Scotia  with  the  petition 
proceeded    to    England,   told    the    true    tale    of    misgovernment   in    the    colony,   and  ob- 
tamed    .mmediate    redress,    Governor    Smith    being  promptly   recalled.       Smith    had    the 
l.rmest  conviction   that  parliamentary  government  was  a  nuisance  to  be  abated      From 
.S.4  to    18.7    no    Assembly  was    summoned.       The    House  which    met   in    ,8.8   prove.l 
refractory   and    was    not    called    again    till    ,8.0.        Governor    Smith    hated    Assemblies 
and  had  more  joy  in    fighting    them    than   in   attempting  to   carry  out  th^ir  wishes 

It  was  at  Charlottetown,  Jn  ,864.  that  the  project  of  a  confederation  of  the  British 
North  American  Provinces  took  shape.  The  leading  public  men  of  Quebec  and 
Ontar.o  [at  that  time  Lower  and  Upper  Canada]  met  at  Charlottetown,  and  joined 
there  a  Conference  of  the  Maritime  Provinces  discussing  Maritime  Union.  The  larger 
project  easily  eclipsed  the  lesser,  and  the  larger  Provinces  united  on  July  ,.  ,86; 
Pnnce  Edward  Island  once  and  again  refused  to  come  into  the  union;  but  on  the  ,st 
o'  July,   1873.  she,  too,  cast  in  her  lot  with  the  other  Provinces 

Cobbett  w.-ote  of  Prince  Edward  Island  as  ^'a  rascally  heap  of  .sand,  rock,  and 
swamp,  m  the  horrible  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence."  -a  lump  of  worthlessne.ss  that  bears 
nothing  but  potatoes."  Cobbet:  was  not  the  first  writer  nor  the  last  that  ignorantlv 
.nahgned  our  fair  inheritance.  Each  of  the  Provinces  in  its  turn  has  had  the  fin.e'r 
of  scorn  pointed  at  it,  and  ti,e  tongue  of  detraction  wagged  against  it;  but  each  an.l 
all  must  continue  to  prosper  while  a  genial  sun  smiles  on  a  fertile  soil  tilled  by  the 
liands  of  freemen.  ^ 

^  Prince  Edward  Island  was  among  the  earliest  of  the  colonies  to  establish  a  svstem 
o.  pubhc  education,  which  has  been  carried  on  with  increasing  efficiencv ;  and  th. 
result  is  that  the  little  Province  has  sent  forth  into  the  world  more  than  it.^  p.-oportion 
of  men  of  mark  and  learning  The  people  are  sober,  religious,  and  industrious.  Very 
large  crop.,  of  oats  and  potatoes  are  raised  for  export,  as  well  as  for  home  use.  Of 
late    years    the    fertility    of    the    soil   has    been    largely    increa.sed    by    the    application  of 

niussel-mud.     ra.sed  f.om  vast  deposits  of  decomposed  shell  fish  found  in   -blue  inlets 


13 


311. 


.ifTf* 


I  B'7'*1*lil 


1411  i: 


'3« 


11,.  BK^ 
Hi  .nut 


Mr;:' 


n/H  liASTJiRNA/OS/    KllUih: 


ana  their  crystal  creeks"  close  by  the  shore.  The  "  ,n,ul  "  in  raised  through  the  ic  in 
the  leisure  months  of  winter,  and  carried  in  sleds  in  ,1,,.  fields,  when  scarcely  any 
other  k.nd  of  fann  work  can  be  attended  to.  The  pennanent  industry  of  the  Island 
..s  agnculture;  but  ship-buildino-  has  been  prnseaa.,!  will,  suecess.  X„  b.-tter  fishin,^^ 
grounds  are  to  be  found  in  America  than  the  northern  .  n„s(  ;  and  the  sunn,,,,  hori.on 
•H  dotted  with  the  sails  of  fishing  craft.  The  people  nf  the  Island  have  not  eno-a.-.d 
.n  fishing  to  the  extent  that  one  would  expect  In.t  they  are  turning  their  attent^.^to 
th,s  mdustry  with  increasing  success.  American  lishh,,^  ..aft  can  at  times  be  counted 
in-  the  scor.  i,^  the  blue  distance.  Once  in  twenty  yea,,  o.  so  n,lghtv  storms  sweep 
the   C.ulf  Of    St.    Lawrence  and  carry  terrible    destruaio.i  to  ,l,e   (i.hing  vess<.ls  near  the 

eoilNt  'i'hc  most  iiicuioi-al)l(;  of 
tlU'MO  Htorms  was  that  of  October 
i'X  Itlld  4th,  1853,  when  72  Amei-i- 
t'lin  vessels  wei-e  flung  ashore  on 
l;ll'!  north  coast  of  the  Island.  A 
Hlinilai'  storm  bunt  suddenly  upu.. 
llle  coast  in  August.  1.S73,  and  was 
ttlinosl   ecpially  destructive. 

Cliarlottetown  is  b-autifully  situ- 
(Hed    on    tin;    north    side    of   Hills- 
'"H'ough    River.       The    harbour    is 
Hide  whate\(i-  wind  ma)-  blow;  and 
tile  towr.   slopes    gently  upwai-d  as 
we,  proceed  inland.      Its  streets  are 
wide,     M(\    at    some     seasons    ex- 
tremely   busy.        It    has    handsome 
cluil'ches,    two    or  thi-ee   colleges,  a 
convent  and  many  delightfully  situ- 
ated private  dwellings.       The    sub- 
tll'lm    arc     chai-ming    with    gai'dens 
fUUl     Jiroves     of     evei-gi-eens,    with 
shady    avenues    opening   out    upon 
<t*i'lilt!    fields,    green    or   golden    in 
tlieir  time,        The    city  has  a  popu- 
llltioM  of  o\(.|-  8.000,  and  is  steadily 
^row,ng         It    was    founded    in    .768.    but    the    beauty    and    .,uiet    of    th.    harbour   had 
attracted    attention    many    years    befo.e    this    period,        A    nerious    disadvantage    to    the 
island    cap.tai    is  that   fo,-  four  months  in   the    year  -  pe,.hap«  for  five    u,o,„hs'    it  is  ice- 
bound.       It  is  the  railway  centre  of    the    Province,  a„U    i„    ihe    early   sununer    and   late 


ACADIAN    r.IUL. 


OF   Tim   CON  TINE  NT 


nugli   the   ico  in 
n    scarcely    any 
of    the    Ishind 
I)  Ix^tter  fishing 
summer  horizon 
•('  noi    tMiyagcd 
'ir  attention   to 
les    be    counted 
storms    sweep 
esscls  near  tlie 
ini-nioraijie    of 
lat   of   Octoljer 
hen    72   Anieri- 
ing  asiiore   on 
he  Island.      A 
suddenly  upon 
1S73,  and  was 
.K.tive. 

'tautifully  situ- 
side    of   Hills- 
le    harbour    is 
ia>-  l)lo\v ;  and 
tl)-  upward  as 
Its  streets  are 
seasons    e.\- 
las    handsome 
ee   coUeq-es,  a 
lightfully  situ- 
s.       The    sui)- 
with    gardens 
rgreens.     with 
ng    out    upon 
or    golden    in 
'  has  a  popu- 
nd  is  steadily 
harbour    had 
itage    to    the 
ths~    it   is  ice- 
iier   and   late 


'39 


autumn    is   the   scene 


of  great    commercial    activity.       There   are    .lelightf.d    drives   and 

walks    in    tin;   vicin.'ty. 

I*"roni     Charlotletown     to 
Georg<'town  the  country  is  e.\- 
ceptionally  fertile  and  largely 
under   cultivation.       I'hc   mad 
for  some  distance  follows  tin; 
Hillsborough     River,    a    long 
sinuous    arm   of   the    sea.       It 
passes    through   villages,  each 
resembling  the  other,  and  all 
presenting  the  ideal  of  pastor- 
al  peace  and   seclusion.      The 
head    of    the;    river    is    within 
a  Jiiile    and   a   half    of  Traca- 
die    lIari)our,    on     the     north 
side    of    the    Island.       It   was 
at   this    old    jiortage    that   the 
I'l'  nch  fiiiall)- surrendered  the 
island   lo  the    lirilish. 

Georgetown  is  beautifully 
situateil  amitl  the  slopes  of 
velvet  fields  on  a  peninsula 
between  the  Cardigan  and 
Brudenelle  rivers.  The  har- 
bour is  the  most  securt'  on 
the  Island,  and  is  the  last  to 
succumb  to  the  touch  of  the 
ice-king.  Steamers  ply  be- 
tween this  port  and  Pictou 
and  the   Magdalen.  Island.s. 

•Summerside  is  usually  the 
point  at  which  toin-ists  in  the 
summer  time  touch  the  Isl- 
:i'itl-  It  is  next  to  Char- 
lotletown   in   wealth    and    iio- 


pulat 
harbc 


ion. 


!' 
An     islet    off    the 


.1 


our    IS    the    site    of    the 


Island    Park    Hotel, 


de- 


;3ii 


■*«-, 


I  rjjp 

Iff"' 


i  f. 


lilt:! 


140 


VW/i  EASTERNMOST  RIDGE 


li-,rlitful  spot  with  many  attractions   for  tlie  traveller.      Summerside  is  the  headquarters 
of  the  trade  in   Bedeqiie    ojsters. 

There  is  no  more  salubrious  summer  resort  in  all  America  than  Prince  Edward 
Island.  The  sea-bathinj^r  is  delightful  ;  for  thu  waves  come  in  curvinjr,  laughing,  darn- 
ing over  long  reaches  of  shining  sands  warmed  by  the  summer  sun.  The  sea-breeze  is 
never  far  away;  and  if  you  go  to  tlic  northern  coast  you  may  enjoy  it  in  its  coolest  per- 
fection when  the  waves  arc;  edged  witli  angry  foam,  "white  as  the  bitter  lip  of  hate." 
The  scenery  is  ne\er  grand  e.xcept  wlien  great  gales  beat  upon  the  exposed  coast, 
hurling  the  waters  of  the  Gulf  upon  the  trembling  land ;  but  though  not  grand  or  sub- 
lime, it  is  ever  lovely,  ever  suggestive  of  comfort,  peace,  and  plenty  ;  a  smiling  heaven 
and  a  happy  people.  In  the  deiJths  of  winter  there  is  isolation  ;  but  even  then  there 
are  compensations.  What  more  e.xhilarating  than  sports  on  the  ringing  ice  of  those 
rivers  and  iiarbours  And  the  sleighing  never  fails.  The  silver  thaw  is  seen  here  in 
a  degree  of  perfection  never,  perhajis,  attained  elsewhere.  Often,  in  one  night,  the  grim 
<iull  forests  are  transferred  into  groves  of  crystal,  each  branch  and  twig  bending  grace- 
fully under  its  brilliant  burden.  Ice  half  an  inch  thick  forms  on  the  boughs.  The 
sun  shines  upon  the  scene  and  it  becomes  indescribably  brilliant.  The  coasts  of  P.  H. 
Island  are  almost  entirely  free  from  the  fog  which  is  so  troublesome  on  the  Atlantic 
coast  of  Nova  Scotia  and  Cape  P.reton.  Sometimes  it  hangs  on  the  far  off  horizon 
eastward,  as  if  longing  for  orders,  usually  refused,  to  invade   these  pleasant  shores. 

We  have  said  that  Prince  Edward  Island  is  isolated:  but  there  is  coming  and 
going  in  the  very  heart  of  winter.  The  telegraph  flashes  its  daily  messages  under 
the  waters  of  the  Strait  and  the  ice-boat  carries  passengers  and  mails  from  shore 
to  shore.  It  is  said  that  the  Indian  name  for  the  Island  is  (or  was)  EpayguU, 
"  Anchored  on  the  Wave."  The  point  of  crossing  by  ice-boat  is  from  Cape  Traverse 
in  P.  E.  1.,  to  Cape  Tormentine  in  New  Brunswick,  where  the  distance  is  about  nine 
miles.  The  standard  ice-boat  is  18  feet  long,  5  feet  wide,  and  2  feet  2  inches  deep. 
Its  frame  is  oaken;  it  is  planked  with  cedar,  and  the  planks  are  covered  with  tin.  It 
has  a  double  keel  which  serves  for  runners,  and  four  leather  straps  are  attached  to 
each  side.  The  crews  are  hardy,  powerful,  and  courageous  men,  equally  ready  to  pull 
or  row,  or  swim  if  need  should  arise.  There  is  often  open  water  half  the  distance, 
and  this  is  regarded  as  the  easiest  crossing.  The  passage  usually  occupies  three  and 
a  half  hours.  Occasionally  when  tiie  ice  is  bad  and  the  tide  strong  in  the  wrong  di- 
rection the  struggle  continues  for  nine  or  ten  hours.  Only  once  in  thirty  years  has  a 
serious  accident  occurred.  In  1855  a  violent  snow-storm  swept  down  suddenly  on  the 
boat.  The  men  lost  their  way.  After  battling  with  the  fury  of  the  elements  from 
Saturday  till  Tuesday,  they  finally  landed  about  forty  miles  out  of  their  course,  one 
of  the  passengers  having  meanwhile  perished. 

We  advise  our  readers  to  visit  this  garden  of  the  Sea  Provinces  in  summers 


;  headquarters 

'rince  Edwanl 
aiighingi  dam - 
L'  sea-breczc  is 
its  coolest  ptr- 
r  lip  of  hate, 
exposed  coast, 
grand  or  siih- 
miling  heaven 
en  then  there 
ice  of  those 
seen  here  in 
ight,  the  grim 
lending  grace- 

)Ollghs.         Tile 

>asts  of   P.   ii. 

the  Atlaniii 
r  off  horizon 
It  shores. 

coming  ami 
issages  II niter 
s  from  shore 
is)  Hpayguit, 
ape  Traverse 
is   about  nine 

inches  deep, 
with  tin.      It 

attached  to 
ready  to  pull 
the  distance, 
es  three  ami 
he  wrong  di- 
1  years  has  a 
denly  on  tlie 
ements  from 
■  coursCi   one 

mmer.x 


C  ••    7///;'   COXT/X/-XT 


141 


THE    LOWEFl^  ST.    LAWF^ENCE, 

AND    THE    SAGUENAY. 


IIOMF.    Ol-    THE     WTCIIKK     I'l.ANT, 


T^lll'.  St.  l.awrence  is  tiie 
type,  as  it  is  tiie  eiuhotli- 
ment,  of  Canadian  rivers.  I'lij), 
free,  and  impetuous  fnini  soiu'ce 
to  outlet;  clear  and  swift  like  its  countless  tributaries;  broatl  and  mighty  in  volume, 
uke  the  lakes  that  store  its  strength;  evt'r  changing  in  aspect,  from  mighty  rapid 
and  stupendous  fall,  to  rippling  reaches  and  broad  depths,  where  it  gathers  force  for 
another  rush  down  its  steep  incline.  Not  a  mere  water-course,  but  a  stream  of  the 
hills  and  woods,  full  of  sparkle  and  vigour,  as  if  draining  half  a  continent  wer«  a 
labour  to  be  rejoiced  in.  Throughout  the  varying  scenes  of  its  long  course,  its  beauty 
and    majesty    are    always   striking,  but    nowhere    more    so    than  in    its    estuary.      Other 


It 
I 


1 


IS 


Vl 


Uu 


'42 


'////£  JLISTHRXA/OS/'  NIlHiH 


-rcat  riviTs  swm  to  .Ircail  llu-ir  (•ml:  they  waiul.r  slii^jyislily  tlirnuv.!,  vast  marshes, 
nlxlividc  into  many  outlets,  build  iip  oriat  hais  lo  uaid  oil  the  sea,  suddenly  giv,. 
up  tlu;  contest,  spread  out  their  waters,  and  arc  lo-^i  in  llir  ocean.  \\m-  •■C.reat  Rivir 
of  Canada"  keeps  its  individuality  to  th(!  closr.  ,uid  rolls  on  lill  the  hanks  vvhieh  ((.n- 
Ime  its  L,r|-and  Hood  are  those  which  limit  the  ocan  ilself.  .\t  ihc  Isle  of  Orleans, 
il  seems  to  prepare  l.oldly  for  its  end,  lor  it  suddenly  widens,  lo  l,c  measured  hy 
lea,i,Mies  instead  of  l.y  miles  across;  yet  there  an-  fidly  two  hundred  miles  to  uo  before 
its  shores  fade  away  on  opposiK-  horizons,  ami  closr  on  tl\ree  hundred  more  before  ii 
reaches  the    o[)en  sea. 

The  hills,  amon.n  which  it  was  born,  its  kinsfolk  and  ai(|uainl.uue  that  shari  w-. 
name,  come  to  ^r,iard  it  a,t,rain  after  two  thousami  miles  of  separation.  I'rom  Cap 
Tourmente  to  far  down  the  Labrador  coast  the  Laurentians  are  piled  ..|)  in  a  sea  of 
rollini,^  contours,  like  hu.nc  waves  turned  to  rock  just  when  their  crests  were  breakim^. 
On  the  south  the  mountains  keep  longer  aloof,  but  broken  fool-hills  diversify  the 
undulatin--  sloiie  that  sweeps  up,  from  the  belt  of  rich  lowland  alonj;  the  shore,  to 
where  the  distant  hills  of  Maine  meet  the  sky.  Near  KamoiuMska.  precipitous  craj^s 
dot  the  broad  plain.  At  Hie,  immense  spurs  jut  out  to  the  river-baids.  Thence,  towards 
the  sea.  the  face  of  the  coinitry  is  e\er  more  and  more  broken  and  scarred  ;  the  Gaspe 
range  presses  inwards,  and,  with  the  tall  peaks  of  the  .Sliickshaws  towering  above  all, 
lonely  giants  jealous  of  their  blue-capped  rivals  on  the  far  hori/on,  bounds  the  St. 
Lawrence  from  Caj)  Chat  to  Gaspe,  with  great  cliffs,  stern,  overhanging,  .sombre,  meet 
banks  for  a  river  eighty  miles  broad.  There  are  all  the  charms  of  river  and  sea,  oi 
mountain    and   forest,    of    wilderness  and  cultivated   plain,  about  the  region. 

Turn  to  the  north.  .\  rampart  of  rock,  guartling  the  secrets  of  the  wild  land 
beyond,  towers  to  the  sky;  great  chasms  and  gorges  break  il,  but  to  reveal  still 
mightier  walls  of  mountain,  at  last,  till  th(^  eye  is  fain  to  rest  upon  lleecy  shimmerings 
of  cloud  Heating  above  hills  that  seem  far  off  as  the  sky  itself.  Rock  and  forest 
everywhere;  dark  and  sombre  when  the  .storm  clouds  gather,  and  the  rain-squalls  howl 
down  the  passes,  blotting  out  of  sight  all  but  the  white-capped  waves;  many-hued  antl 
soft-shadowed  as  the  morning  light  plays  on  pine  and  spruce  top,  on  waving  birch  ami 
quivering  poplar,  on  dark  cedar  and  brilliant  maple;  clear-cut  and  bright  in  the  strong 
light  of  a  Canadian -mid-day  ;  rich  in  purple  and  green,  crimson  and  gold,  russet  and 
grey,  orange  and  black,  as  the  sun  goes  down  ;  vague,  soft  and  silvery  in  the  moon- 
light;  mysterious  and  overwhelming  when  the  moon  has  sunk  behind  the  hills.  A  land 
of  torrents  and  earthquakes,  where  the  foimdations  of  the  continent  were  upheaved, 
and  scarcely  now  have  settled  firm.  Yet.  wherever  th<'  mouth  of  a  river  wedges  the 
hills  apart,  or  the  wearing  current  and  chafing  ice-Hoes  have  left  a  foothold  at  the 
base  of  the  heights  or  have  cut  an  escarpmcMit  in  their  sides,  little  hamlets  cluster  and 
the  .symbol  of   the  Christian  faith  is  seen. 


OF    THE   CONTINENT 


'43 


vast  marslu^s, 
suddenly  j^i'c 
:  "t'ircat  Ri\  r 
iiks  vvhicli  ((in- 
ilc  of  Orlcaii^^, 
nu'asiiRMl  li\' 
■s  to  l;<)  before 
more   before   it 

tliat  shart  ii-, 
1.  I'rom  Ca|> 
i.|)  in  a  st!a  of 
were  l/reakin^;. 
;    diversify    tlie 

the  sliore,  to 
■cipitous  craj;s 
lience,  towards 
■d  ;  tlie  Gaspci 
in^r  above  all, 
)unds    tlu;    St. 

sonil)re,  meet 
r  and  st^a,  oi 
11. 

the  wild  land 
:(j  reveal  still 
\  shimmorinj^s 
ck  and  forc^si 
n-sc]iialls  howl 
lany-hued  anil 
'ing  birch  and 

in  the  strong 
tl,  russet  and 
in  the  moon- 
hills.  A  land 
•re  upheaved, 
-  wedges  the 
ithold  at  the 
:s  cluster  and 


iws.      ikit  everywhere  a  background    of 


On  the  south  shore  Nature  is  less  aggre.ssive,  and  yields  room  for  the  beauties  of 
pastoral  landscape.  b'or  tlie  most  part  there  is  a  continuoijs  line  of  settlement,  farms 
and  houses,  villages  and  church-spires,  here  an<l  tlu're  a  goodly  town,  streams  and 
bridges,  convents  and  windmills,  irites  ;ind  meado\ 
the   hills  and    llu'   woods. 

Hunilreds  of  streams,  some  of  them  great  rivers,  coming  from  far  regions,  known 
only  to  the  wild-fowl  and  tlic  Indian,  swell  the  volume  of  the  Lower  .St.  Lawrence. 
Those  on  the  sou:!)  coast  winti  turbid  lloods  through  sinuous  curves  in  the  rich  loam  ; 
those  on  the  north  dash  round  sharp  angles,  hurrying  their  crystal  waters  over  cascades 
and  rapiils,  down  gravelly  Ix.ls  and  through  Avx-y  rock-bound  pools,  where  the  salmon 
and  the  sea-trout  rest  on  their  loit.M-ing  away  to  the  distant  shallows.  Up  some  of  these 
streams  even  the  fish  cannot  climb  far,  and  the  i-oyaocitr  in  his  bark-canoe  must  make 
many  a  i)ortage  over  the  crags  and  through  the  trees,  if  he  would  scale  these  watery 
ladders  to  the  l,d)yriiuh  of  lakes,  whence  he  may  threail  his  way  lar  west  beyond 
Lake   Superior,    north    to    Hudson's    Hay,   or  east   to   une.siilored    wilds. 

Islanils  of  all  sizc-s  and  form.s.-- some  green  and  fertile  like  the  Isle  of  Orleans, 
beautiful  Lsle  au.\  Couches,  and  oastoral  Isle  Verte,— some  long,  rocky  battures  with 
jagg(;d  reefs,  round  which  current  and  tide  contend  in  ugly  swirls  of  foam,— others,  tall 
pillars  of  rock,  fragments  from  the  prinueval  strife  of  elements,  break  the  broad  blue 
e.xjianse,  and  interpose  an  ever-changing  foreground.  Bold  headlands  alternate  with 
long,  low-lying  po'.us,  to  mark  the  extremities  of  the  sweei>ing  bays,  within  which  are 
sea-weed  covereil  rocks,  white  sand  beaches,  and  broad  llats,  the  homes  of  innumerabh' 
birds.  Colonies  of  ravens  inhabit  the  wooded  heights  that  space  off  the  little  ports 
where  the  rivers  widen  as  they  meet  the  tide,  and  where  the  brown-sailed  li.shing-boats 
find  shelter.  Long  piers  run  far  out  to  the  cb.annel  ;  light-houses,  baudetl  with  black 
and  white,  dot  the  cajies,  and  mark  the  shoals  in  the  track  of  the  great  ocean  steam- 
ers that  here  seem  but  small  black  nuclei  of  smoky  comet.s.  Huge  red  buoys  define 
the  channels  ;  their  bells  clang  out  the  danger  signal,  and  fog-horns  bellow  deep  warn- 
ing notes  as  the  increasing  swell  tells  of  the  coming  gale.  Great  ships,  eager  to  make 
an  olting,  and  to  leave  grim  Anticosti's  wreck-strewn  coast  safe  behind,  spread  clouds 
of  canvas  ;  others,  with  sails  aback,  lie  quietly  awaiting  the  swift  pilot-boats  that  biat 
about  like  restless  sea-swallows  gathering  a  living  from  the  waves.  The  .semaphores 
on  the  hillocks  swing  their  great  arms  to  signal  passing  vessels,  and  telegraph  their 
news  from  station  to  station,  so  that  the  distant  Bird  Rocks  and  the  lonely  Magdalens 
share  the  world's  tidings  with  the  cities  of   the  west. 

The  cool,   pure  air  of  the  mountains,  sweet  with  the  aroma  of  the    forests,  mimdes 
with  salt    breezes    from    the    sea.       The    dash    of   th 


e    waves,  as    the    brisk 


their  crests,   is  the    complement    of    the   crisp   rustle    of   the    leaves 
swash  of  the  tide  that  of    the  sou^ih  of   th 


squal 


rls 


ia.      » 


th 


e  long,  moaning 
e  wind  through    the    pine  groves.       There  is 


F'*-* 


'.iMmiummim 


•k-. 


Jttll 


e:;; 

I; 

Kli; 

••)ir 


mf. 


i 


144 


////■  /wis//:A.\'.i/os7-  kiih;!-: 


J:3- 


CAP  TOURMrNTK. 


a   min^rlcd   rcstl'iilntss  ami   viL^our   in    tin-  aiiiiiis|ilnrc,   a    tninMnalion   of    the  s(;a  and   the- 
woods,   of   ihi-   rivers  and   llic   liilK,   to  drive  a\va\-   all   rare  and   weariness. 

Nor  i-,  the  interest  of  ihe  Lower  Si,  Lawrence  that  of  scenttry  alone;  tradition, 
history,  le.^end  and  folk-lore  coniri^nle  iheir  fidl  share.  Lon^;  Indore  Carti<'r  first 
visite'd  the  three  ^reat  realms  of  iloiii.;uedo,  .Sa^iienay,  ami  Canada,  Indian  nation 
fought  many  a  war  of  e.xlermination  for  the  possi'ssion  of  the  hnnting-grounds  and 
fisheries.  Al,:^i)n(iuin  and  Soiiriquois,  Micniae,  Malecite,  Abenaciui,  Montagnais  and 
Iroquois,  hav(!  all  left  their  mark.  !'" ranee-  and  lui^land  have;  lent  associa.ions  to 
every  point  on  the  long  coast-line.  LIow  many  trageiiies,  what  thriliinj,^  sri  nes,  and 
what  various  people  this  river  has  sei-n  since  cannon  lirsl  woke  the  Laurontian's 
thunderous  echoes  with  a  ro\al  ^,ahite  to  "  Donnacona  .X^rouhanna  ou  Seigneur  de 
Canada"  hoarding  Carti(?r's  ships  off  the  islanil  of  Orleans,  close  to  the  very  point 
where,  not  long  ago,  the  jieople  of  Stadacona  waved  their  God-speed  to  an 
English  Princess.  livery  isl.ind.  cape  and  bay  has  a  story  of  shipwreck,  miracle,  or 
wraith.  The  people  of  th<!  ri\<;r  and  gulf  are  a  curious  compound  of  voyagi-ur,  farmer, 
and  fisherman.  They  are  full  of  energy  and  character,  bold  and  hardv',  simple-minded, 
honest  and  hosjjitable,  superstitious,  .is  all  fishermen  are,  and  abounding  in  wonderful 
irrronds  but  pious  nufl  brave  withal.  Thev  jireserve  manv  old  ideas  .ind  habits,  for 
down  here  the  earliest    settlements  in    I'Vench  Canada  are  side    i)y  side  with  the   latest. 

It    is    not    surprising    that    the    Lower    St.     Lawrence,     or    rather    those    parts    of 


or  rill':  contim-nt 


1-15 


ic  soa  aiul  tlic 

oik;  ;  tradition, 
:    CaitiiT    first 

luiiaii  nation 
y-groiinds  and 
ontagnais  and 
issociaiions  to 
ly  sillies,  and 
■  l.aurentian's 
Seigneur  de 
lie  very  point 
-speed  to  an 
ck,  miracle,  or 
yagtut\  farmer, 
sim|)le-minded, 
r  in  wonderful 
\\m\    habits,   for 

ith  the   latest, 
lose    parts    of 


if  that  geiierally  pass  for  the  wiioic,  of  wliidi  they  form  in  reality  but  a  small 
l.ortion,  h.is  lon.i;  been  a  favourite  holiday  around  for  Cinadiaiw  of  iIk^  Upper 
I'roviiiccs,  .m.l  ilia>  it  has  of  lat<'  yrars  bc.i^uii  lo  attraet  man)  stranj,'ers.  'I'liere  anr 
waterinj;-plaies    on     both    shores,   each    h.ivinL;    its    own    eh.ir.uteiisiic. 

Kamour.iska,  the  oldest  ol  .ill,  where  once  upon  a  time  the  wittiest  and  most 
(harminj,^  of  j-reiuh  society  was  to  be  b.und.  is  now  dull,  (piiet,  .md  given  to  boating. 
Riviere  ilii  l.onp,  now,  alas,  turne<l  into  prosaic  but  siunilic.mt  I'raserville.— for  the 
iii'W  nanK;  perpetuates  the  poetic  revenge  that  spoiled  of  their  very  nationality  the 
whilom  spoilers  of  this  fair  land,- has  comfortable'  houses  and  good  society,  is  decidedly 
proper,  respectable,  and  a  little  slow.  Cacouna  has  its  cpiiei  cott.iges,  but  also  the 
most  pretentious  hotel,  and  too  much  of  th(!  dancing  and  dressing  that  char.e.icrize 
American  watering-places.  |{,,il,  Riviire  du  l.onp  and  Cicouna  have  beautiful  views 
of  the  i)anorama  of  the  opposite  shore,  here  just  at  the  right  distance  for  the  most 
magnificent  of  sunset  effects.  Rimouski  is  a  cathedral  town,  most  affected  by 
I'lench  vis  tors.  Itic  is  pictures(|ue  and  secluded,  and  but  little  visited.  Metis  is  the 
ivsort  of  th.'  scientist,  the  blue-stocking,  and  the  newly-married.  Matane,  noted  for 
its  good  cheer  and  sea-trout  fishing.  All  the  foregoing  .ire  ,.ii  the  south  shore,  and 
easily   reached   by   rail   or  by  steamer;  i)ui  attractive  as  they  are,  they  have   not   ihe  same 


I 


*» 


146 


THE  EASTHRNMOSI'  RIDGE 


cliarin  for  most  jjcoplc  as  tlif  places  at-rosH  the  river,  though,  as  the  temperature  of 
the  water  is  notably  warmer,  owing  to  its  shallowilcsH  and  the  great  extent  of  beach 
uncovered  at  low  tide,  they  are  preferred  for  bathing.  This,  iiowever,  is  the  \veak 
point  of  all  the  fre(iuented  watering-places  on  tile  St.  Lawrence.  To  one  accustomed 
to  the  open  sea  the  water  is  not  salt  enough,  there  is  no  surf,  nor  are  there  liie 
thousand  and  one    treasures    of    the    sea-shore, 

Four  times  a  week  in  the  summer  monilis  steamers  freighted  with  holiday-makers 
and  tourists  leave  Quebec  for  Tadoussac  and  C'hieoulimi,  touching  at  the  various 
places  between  these  points.  To  look  at  ihi'  piles  of  baggage  and  furniture,  tile 
hosts  of  children  and  servants,  the  houselioM  gods,  the  dogs,  cats  and  birds,  one 
might  tiiink  the  Canadians  were  emigrating  ni  masse,  like  the  scioncnrs  and  their  fami- 
lies after  the  cession  of  the  country  to  JMiglan.l,  Hut  these  travellers  have  a  happier 
destinv  than  had  those  who  sailed  in  tlu'  .  I ii,i;iis/i\  shipwrecked  on  Cape  Breton  in 
November,  1762.  Murray  Bay  and  its  adjoining  villageH  are  the  resort  of  those  who 
want  grand  sc<Miery,  and  a  ([uiet  coimlr)-  life  with  a  si)ice  of  gaiety.  Many  families 
have  their  own  pretty  country-houses,  but  a  lavourilc  plan  is  to  take  a  habitant's  cot- 
tage just  as  it  stands,  and  to  play  at  "  roughing  it  "  with  all  the  luxuries  you  care  to 
add  to  the  rag-matted  tloors  and  primitive  furniture.  I'hose  who  want  more  excite- 
ment find  it  at  the  hotels,  where  in  the  evening  there  is  always  a  dance,  a  concert,  or 
private  theatricals,  to  wind  up  a  day  s|)enl  in  bathing,  picnicing,  boating,  driving, 
trout-fishing,  tennis,  bowls,  billiards,  and  ,1  ^u/v\\  oihi'r  amusements.  It  is  a  merry 
life  and  a  healthy  onc! ;  you  liv(!  as  you  please,  and  do  as  you  please,  and  nobody  says 
you  nay.  'I'adoussac  is  much  the  sanu',  onl>,  if  one  may  be  allowed  the  expression,  a 
little  more  so,  perhaps  because  it  is  the  favourite  of  .Vmericans.  On  the  north  shore 
nobody  but  the  salmon-fisher  goes  beyond  TadoiissiU' ;  but  on  the  south  shore  the 
tendency  is  always  farther  and  farther  down  evi'ry  Near,  so  that  Rimouski,  I5ic,  Metis, 
and  Matane  have  successively  been  reached,  and  before  long,  when  tlie  l)eauties  of  the 
coast  between  Ste.  .\nne  des  Monts  and  ('ape  (laspe  are  fully  known,  the  artist  and 
his  ally,  the  fisherman,  will  no  longer  revel  in  solitary  and  undisturbed  enjoyment  of 
its   magnificent    scenerx. 

However,  our  way  lies  not  among,  though  perf(UTe  to  some  extent  with,  the  tour- 
ists. FicTi'Kicson-;  Canada  is  not  a  guidebook  ;  its  random  sketches  attempt  to  show 
but  a  few  scattertnl  gems  from  anions  ||„.  ireasiu'es  ready  to  artist's  brush  and 
writer's  pen. 

Foremost  among  these  is  the  coast  <hi  the  north  between  the  isl.md  of  Orleans 
and  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay.  It  is  almost  as  wild  tn-day  as  when  the  first  explor- 
ers saw  it  three  centuries  and  a  half  ago,  or  a^j  when  Boucher,  writing,  in  1663,  his 
Histoire    Maturclle    d 


.  atiatt 


to    1. 


ouis 


XIV, 


sail  I   o 


f   it: 


Tad 


iforntation    of    Colbert,    Minister    of    Finance 
ssac  lo  Cap    Tourmente,  .seven  leagues    from 


OF   THE   CONTINENT 


'47 


temperature  of 
Ktent  of  beach 
",  is  the  weak 
ine  accustonu:(l 
are    there    tlic 

holiday-makers 
It    the    various 

furniture,  tlie 
nd  birds,  one 
nd  their  fanii- 
lave  a  iia[)pier 
ape  Hreton    in 

of  tiiose  wiio 
Many  families 
liabilant's  cot- 
s   you  care    to 

more    excite- 

a  concert,  or 
iting,  driving'. 
It  is  a  merry 
d   nobody  sa\s 

expression,  a 
.;  north  siiore 
ith  shore  the 
ki,  Hie,  Metis, 
•auties  of  tiic 
he  artist  and 
('njo)ni(nt    (if 

vith.  liic  lotn-- 
empt  to  show 
's    brush    and 

d  of  Orleans 
V.  first  explor- 
iii  1663,  his 
r  of  Finance 
leagues    from 


Quebec,  the  country  is  quite  uninhabitable,  beinir  too  hiyh  and  all  rock\-,  and  cpiite 
precipitous.  I  have  remarked  only  one  place,  that  is  Bale  St.  Paul,  about  half-way  and 
opposite  to  Isl(-  aux  Coudres,  which  seems  very  pretty  as  one  passes  by,  as  well  as  all 
the  islands  to  be  found  between  Padoussac  and  Quebec,  whicii  are  all  fit  to  U- 
inhabited." 

'I'imes  have  ciianged  since  Boucher's  day,  i)ut  th(;  north  coast  has  changed  liltK^. 
The  scattered  villages  serve  but  to  emphasize  the  savage  grandeur  of  the  stern 
line  of  cliffs  rising  sheer  from  the  water.  The  settlements  have  as  yet  made 
little  impression  upon  the  countrj'  between  Bale  St.  Paul  and  Cap  Tourmente.  There 
was  not  even  a  road  over  the  hills  between  these  points  until  1818,  and  to  this  day 
there  is  none  along  the  cliffs,  except  for  a  few  miles  about  Pc^tite  Riviere  and  Cap 
Maillaril.  Twenty  years  after  Boucher  wrote  the  passage  above  quoted,  he  tells  us 
that  Petite  Riviere  ai.  1  Bale  St.  Paul  had  b(!en  founded;  the  latter,  he  sa>s,  was  'the 
first  inhabited  land  to  be  met  with  on  the  north  shore  as  you  come  from  i-"rance  ;  it 
penetrates  a  league  into  the  land,  and  is  fifteen  leagues  distant  from  Quebec,  seven 
from  Cap  Tourmente.  The  roads  are  \(M-y  ditticult  and  dangerous;  there  are  three 
families  anil  thirt\-one  souls;    Mass  is  said   there  in  a  domestic  chapel." 

What  those  roads  were  like,  and  what  the  missionarx  priests  who  came  from  La 
Bonne  Ste.  Anne  and  Petit  Cap  had  to  risk  to  say  Mass  to  the  little  congregation, 
may  be  judged  from  the  fate  of  M.  I'rancois  Tilion,  who,  in  1679,  was  caught  1)\  the 
tide  and  drowned,  as  he  made  his  wa\-  along  the  shore,  now  wading  through  mud  and 
water,  now  climbing  tlu'  points  of  rock.  Tradition  has  it  that  his  body  was  found  at 
Petite  Riviere  by  Sister  St.  Paul,  of  the  Congregation  of  Notre-Dame,  who  towed  it 
behind  her  canoe  up  to  Ste.  .Anne.  The  .\I)be  'Trudelle,  in  his  interesting  monograph 
on  Bale  St.  Paul,  speaking  of  the  invasion  of  the  parish  of  Little  River  by  the  St. 
Lawrence,  which  every  year  carries  away  several  feet  of  the  fertile  lands  on  which 
formerly  lived  a  large  number  of  rich  liabitaiits.  says  that  it  i"  hard  to  believe  thc're 
was  a  time  when  a  parish  existed  on  a  long,  rock\  shoal,  now  visible  onh  at  Idw 
tide,  and  that  in  1858  there  were  still  to  be  seen  on  it  the  remains  of  the  okl  clergy- 
house  which,   with   the  old  church,   the  river  had  carried  away. 

Boucher  exactly  describes  Bale  St.  Paul  wIkmi  he  speaks  of  it  as  "enfoncee  dans 
les  terres."  It  is  just  a  great  cleft  in  the  rocks,  through  which  a  torrent  fed  by  cas- 
cades from  the  surrounding  mountains  pours  an  impetuous  stream.  A  lovely  valley  is 
that  of  the  C.ouffre.  In  the  background  range  upon  range  of  peaks  rise  above  each 
other,  arid  ami  precipitous  in  reality,  but  toned  by  distance  into  the  softest  blue.  The 
l)old  contours  of  th(-  nearer  hills  are  outlineil  by  tleep  ravines,  dark  with  forest,  brist- 
ling with  cliffs.  Down  every  cleft  fails  a  sparkling  brook,  now  hidilen  from  sight  b\-  a 
clump  of  foliage,  anon  glistening  in  the  sun,  as  rounding  another  turn  it  leaps  from  its 
beil,   in   haste  to  ilescend   the  heights.       Soft   is  the  murmur  of  the   many  waterfalls,   and 


I    '  i| 


1 

»%  a  1 


148 


THE   liASTERXMOST  RIDGE 


sweet  the  smell  of  the  new-mown  hay  in  the  jrreen  fields  tiiat  stretch  for  miles  alonj; 
the  winding  stream.  Clusters  of  houses,  groves  of  trees,  and  shining  church-spires 
diversify  the  scene,  it  is  tu>t  alwajs  so  peaceful.  When  melting  ice  and  heavy  rains 
swell  these  mountain  streams,  cluUing  at  the  long  restraint  the  mountains  have  imposed 
upon  the  waters,  they  fret  and  tear  at  the  tlanks  of  the  hills,  and  uncover  the 
secrets  of  the  pre-historic  world.  Rocks,  tre<.s,  and  bridges  are  swept  into  the  turbid 
Hood  of  the  C.ouffre,  wliich,  raging  like  a  demon  unchained,  destroys  everything  that 
impedes  ii>  headlong   course. 

The    ba)     is    Hanked    on     the    east    by    th<;    lofty    Cap    au.x    Corbeau.x,    named    from 

the  hoarse  croaking  of    the   ravens  that    inhabit  its   wood-crown<'d   crest  an<l    inaccessible 

shelves.      Their  cries,   carried   far  out    on    the    river    by  the    coming    scpiall,   have    always 

been    of     ill-omen    to    the    sailors.        I'he    old    habitanls    arc   more    than    half    inclined    to 

think    this    gloomy  cape,   constantly  enshroud<;d  by  clouds,    the  abode  of 

demons.      There   is  a   Montagnais  legend    of    a  C.iant,    Outikou   by  name, 

who   was  driven    by   the   power  of  the  Cross  from    l.es   Islets   Mechins,   or 

Isles   Mcchants,   some  distance   farther  down   the  opposite  side  of  the  St. 

Laurence,  to   the  far  solitudes  of   Lake  Mistassini,   where  live  the   Nashka- 

jiiouts,    "the  savages  who  d(j  not  pra)'  at  all,"  whence,    say  the    Indians, 

he    in    his    wrath    thunders    and    shakes    the    whole    north    shore.       This 

legend,  and  the  assertion  that 
there  is  an  active  volcano  some- 
where on  the  water-shed  be- 
tween    Hudson's    Bay    and    the 


St.  Lawrence,  correspond  curi- 
ously with  the  Itabitani's  su- 
perstition, and  with  the  frequent 
occurrence  of  earthquakes,  of 
whidi  Baie  St.  Paul  seems  to 
be    the  (-('ntre. 

Lather     JerOme      Lalemant's 
account     of     the     great     earth- 
quake of    1663,   in    the   Relation 
dcs  Jesiiilcs    for    that    jcar,  and 
the  story  of  the  same  by  Sister 
Marie  (U-    1' Incarnation,  are  un- 
fortunately too  long  to  be  given 
here.      But    they  are    we!!    ke.own    and    of    undoubted    authenticity^  agreeing    as  they  do 
with  so  many    and    diverse    contemporary    accounts.       For    six    months   and    a    Iialf    the 
shocks   were    felt    throughout    Canada    and    New  England.       Along    the    St.    Lawrence, 


ART     AMI     NAIX'KL. 


Dr  miles  alonj^ 

church-spires 

1    lieavy    rains 

iiavo  imposed 

uncover    the 

to    the    turbid 

'erything    that 


OF    THE   CONTINENT 


140 


meteors   tilled   tlic  air,    which   was  dark    wilh    smoke    and   cinders.        The    <rrass    withered. 
»nd    the    crops  would   noi  j^row.      According  to    I'.M-Jand.   "  New   lakes  were   formed,   hills 


nametl    from 
d    inaccessible 

have  always 
If  inclined  to 
the  abode  of 
kou  by  name, 
s  Mechins,  or 
ide  of  the  St. 
;:  the  Nashka- 

the  Indians, 
shore.  This 
issertion  that 
'olcano  some- 
ater-shed  be- 
Bay  and  the 
respond  curi- 
hahitant's  su- 
I  the  frequent 
"thfiuakes,  of 
lu!    st'eins    to 

I.alemant's 
great  carth- 
th<!  Rilation 
at  year,  and 
me  by  Sister 
tion,  are  un- 
[  to  be  given 
;  as  they  do 
a  half  the 
Lawrence, 


■*<fr 


BAU';     ST.     I'ALI.. 

vere  lowered,  falls  w(M-e  levelh'd,  small  streams  disappear...],  oreat  forests  were  over- 
-urned.  From  Cap  Tourmente  to  Tadoussac  the  appearan.-e  ,,f  ih.-  sh<,re  was  grcatl>- 
dtered  in  several  localities.  \ear  Bale  St.  Paul,  an  isolated  hill,  about  a  quarter  of 
a  league  in  circumference,  descended  below  the  waters,  and  emerged  to  form  an 
island;  towards  I'ointe  au.x  Alouettes,  a  great  wood  was  detached  from  the  soli.! 
ground,  and  slipped  .)ver  the  rocks  into  th<-  river,  where  for  some  time  the  trees 
remained  upright,  raising  dieir  verdant  crests  al>o\-e  ih,.  wat.'r."  In  June  the  passen- 
gers on  a  sloop  coming  from  C.aspe,  wh.'u  they  approaciied  Tadous.sac,  saw  tlie  water 
strangely  agitated,   and  on   land  a   mountain   l.:\(!iled   wilh   the  surrounding  soil. 

In  1638,  165S,  1663,  1727.  1755,  1791,  i860,  and  1870  there  have  been  many 
shocks.  In  1 791,  it  is  said  the  peaks  north  of  Hale  St.  Paul  were  in  active  eruption, 
but  the  authority  for  this  statement  is  not  of  the  best.  One  thing,  however,  is  certain: 
you  will  not  spend  a  summer  in  that  neighbourhood  without  being  convinced  that  there 
have  been  tremendous  convulsions,  and  that  there  are  still  shocks  to  be  felt.  In  1S60, 
a  stone  house  near  Les  Eboulements  was  thrown  down  ;  the  church  at  Bale  St.  Paul 
was  so  damaged  that  it  had  to  be  rebuilt;  the  shock  was  severely  felt  on  the 
other  side  of  the  river ;  the  church  of  St.  Pascal  was  badly  Injured,  and  at  Riviere 
Quelle,  the  church  lost  its  cross,  while  every  chimney  in  the  parish  fell. 


^91 


.Si 

315 


♦t 


'50 


THE  EASTERNMOST  RIIXiE 


i\ 


V- 


On  ihti  arrival  of  thc^  I'Liiglish  fleet  with  Wolfe's  army,  in  1759,  the  inhabitants  ul 
Bai«;  St.  I'aul  and  Isle  anx  Coudres  foiintl  ife  hidinp-places  for  themselves  and  their 
cattle  in  the  faHtiii^tHcs  at  the  upper  end  o*  the  vaile)-.  When  Captain  Gorham  mad< 
th<'  raid  which  (hjstroyed  the  parishes  of  the  north  shore  as  far  down  as  Murray  Bay, 
tile  men  i»f  Hail!  St,  I'aul  did  not  see  their  village  burned  without  showing  fight, 
but  the  odd*)  were  against  them.  Some  vestiges  of  the  earthworks  they  had  thrown  r,> 
on  tlie  HluM'f  may  yet  be  traced,  and  traditions  of  the  conquest  are  still  current.  The 
registry  "I  iHii'ial  of  ()n<'  of  liie  Canadians  killeil  by  Gorham's  men  states  that  he  was 
scalped.  The  Abbe  Irudclit;  gives  as  the  or  jin  of  the  saying  common  here,  ''fort 
loiiniii  Irreiiiiii,"  a  story  of  tiie  capture  of  two  Canadians,  one  of  whom  was  killed  by 
tin-  cruel  protc'i'i  of  lashing  him  to  a  plank,  and  dropping  him  from  the  yard-arm  into 
tiic  water;  the  oiIk  r,  Grenon,  being  of  such  prodigious  strength  that  he  could  not  be 
fastened  to  the  plank,  was  kept  prisoner  on  board  Gorham's  ship.  A  sailor  having 
insulted  hini  by  blowing  in  his  face,  Grenon  begged  to  be  untied  and  given  his 
revenge,  (ini'linill,  to  amuse  himself,  granted  this,  and  (irenon  killed  the  sailor  with 
one    blow  ol    llie  tlal   of    his  hand,   for  which  e.xploit  Gorham  gave  him  his  liberty. 

Haie  St,  I'anI  has  had  a  hermit,  b'ather  Gagnon,  who  had  been  tun'  of  the  parish, 
lull  not  lu'iny  ilble  to  submit  to  his  bishop,  withdrew  in  i  7H8  to  live  for  sixty  years  a 
lite  of  solitude,  He  seems  to  have  been  a  man  of  strong  will,  higli  character,  and 
l)enevolent  nature,  As  all  hermits  should  be,  he  was  an  herbalist,  and  won  a  great 
reputation  from  the  cures  wrougiit  b\-  his  simple  remedies.  He  also  possttssed  another 
characterintit  of  the  true  hermit, — he  lived  to  the  age  of  ninety-live.  There  is,  too,  at 
Haie  St.  Paul  a  prtrtion  of  the  finger  of  Saint  Anne,  a  relic  whicli  makes  the  church 
a   iikiii-  of    tiptuHul  devotion. 

broni  Kai''  Si.  I'aul  to  Murray  Ha\  is  a  road  never  to  \w.  forgotten.  An  Irish 
jaunting-car  and  an  Irish  carman  are  the  only  rivals  of  a  caliche  and  its  habitant  driver 
for  velocity  .tnd  fun.  Such  hills!  They  stand  foreshortened  before  you,  looking  like- 
ladders  to  heaved,  and  cpiite  as  hard  to  mount.  But  then  you  descend  them  at  a 
gallop.  '\\\\<  calhhv  was  apparently  built  by  the  antediluvians,  so  is  tpiite  in  keeping  with 
the  scenery,  and,  like  all  the  work  of  the  good  old  times,  is  thoroughly  fit  for  its 
pur|)ose,  The  only  difficulty  is  to  keep  inside  it.  The  energetic  pony,  good  little 
beast  th.ii  he  i'l,  plots  upwards  with  a  will  that  i)uts  to  shame  the  memory  of  the 
misguidcti  youth  of  banner-bearing  fame.  He  plants  his  feet  with  vigorous  thuds,  and 
holds  on  lo  llu'  4tones  with  a  grij)  that  sets  one  looking  to  see  whether  he  be  not  in 
reality  a  survival  of  lluxleys  horses  with  toes.  Regardless  alike  of  endearments  and 
objurgationM,  he  lakes  the  down-hill  part  nuich  after  the  style  of  the  sailor  at  M.ajuba 
Hill,  who  only  ntade  land  three  times  in  the  descent.  If,  beguiled  by  the  driver's  voluble 
tongi.e,  you  allow  your  attention  to  slack,  and  feet  and  hands  to  lose  the  necessarv 
tension,  you   ri^k  flying  ov(m-  the  |)ony's   ears  like  a  bullet  from  a  catapult. 


inhabitants  ol 
ves  and  their 
jorham    maii( 

Murray  Ba\ , 
showing  figlit. 
lad  tlirown  r,' 
current.  TIu- 
s  that  he  was 
1  here,  "fort 
was  killed  by 
yard-arm   into 

could  not  be 

sailor  having 
md  jjiven  his 
lie  sailor  with 
s  liberty, 
of  the  parish, 
sixty  years  a 
character,  and 

won  a  great 
tissed  another 
lere  is,  too,  at 
ss    the    churcii 

Ml.  An  Irisii 
'tabitant  drivei" 
,  looking  like 
id  them  at  a 
\  keeping  willi 
illy  fit  for  its 
ly,  good  little 
emory  of  the 
lus  thuds,  and 
he  be  not  in 
learments  and 
or  at  Majuba 
Iriver's  volubU' 
the  necessar\ 


OF   THE   CONTINENT  '5' 

Drive  over  this  road  at  least  once  in  your  life.  But,  by  all  means,  if  you 
are  strong  enough, — and  especially  if  by  good  fortune  you  have  such  a  com- 
panion as  the  kindly  Abbi,  who  spends  his  leisure  at  the  old  manor  that  lies  behind 
tile  historic  point  of  Riviere  Ouelle,  far  away  there  on  the  south  shore,  in  learned 
studies  and  charming  sketches  of  his  native  land,  or  as  his  kinsman,  the  Senator,  the 
hospitable  Seigneur  of  Les  Eboulements,^ — make  >our  wa\-  along  t!ie  heights  on  foot, 
drink  in  the  vigour  of  this  bracing  air,  and  rejoice  to  the  full  in  the  wondrous  beauty 
of    the  scene  before  you. 

Immediately  below  you  is  a  very  chaos  of  hills  heaped  up  in  wild  confusion. 
Earthquake,  volcano,  and  Hood  have  left  their  work  unfinished,  arrested,  as  it  were,  in 
a  moment.  At  Les  Kboulements  the  effect  as  you  look  up  from  the  beach  is  savage, 
forbidding,  glooniv  even.  This  debris  of  mountains  suggests  the  time  when  men  shall 
call  upon  the  rocks  to  hide  them  and  tlie  mountains  to  cover  them,  and  its  savager)' 
is  intensified  by  arid,  crumb''ng  soil  and  scanty  vegetation.  It  is  with  a  sense 
of  intense  relief  at  having  escaped  the  pt'rpetual  menaci;  of  th('  impending  hills 
you  reach  the  lofty  plateau  beyond  the  church,  whence  your  ejt'  v.anilers  over  a  world 
of  peaks,  stretching  l)ack  from  the  shore  range  after  range,  and  sweeping  along  the 
river  to  where  Cap  Touriiiente,  full  f'lrty  miles  away,  shuts  in  the  horizon,  their  spurs 
silhouetted  one  against  the  other  in  boldest  outline.  Ear  down  below  you  are  villages, 
mere  specks  of  white  in  the  rich  valleys,  whose  emerald  tints  are  reflected  from,  the 
glassy  bays  that  lie  between  the  buttresses  of  the  mountains.  The  steamer  at  the 
end  of  the  long  pier  is  only  a  streak  of  cloud  in  the  middle  distance.  The  whole 
surface  of  Isle  aux  Coudres,  that  "  iiioiill  bovne  terre  et  gtasse,  pleine  de  beaulx  et 
crandz  arbres'  is  spread  out  to  \()ur  \ie\v,  a  lovely  panorama.  Over  its  clumps  of 
spruce  and  cedar,  its  groves  of  maple  and  birch  and  hazel,  you  see  the  south  shore 
like  a  soft  blu(>  clouc'.  studded  with  stars,  as  the  sunbeams  glisten  from  the  spires  of 
its  many  parishes.  To  look  down  on  the  calm  surface  of  the  river  is  like  a  vista 
through  endless  space,  so  clearix  mirrored  are  the  deep  piles  of  clouds  which  the  set-, 
till'--  sun  begins  to  edge  with  rose  and  purple,  and  to  line  with  gold.  Yonder, 
between  placid  Isle  aux  Coudres  and  frowning  Cap  aux  Corbe  uix,  where  the  water 
deepens,  and  the  Gouffre  battling  witii  tiu:  tide  forms  the  whirlpool  v.'hence  it  takes 
its  name,  the  floating  reflections  of  the  sk\  interlace  in  a  maze  of  slow-revolving 
spirals.  It  is  a  dangerous  spot  still  for  boat  or  canoe.  In  (.^narlevoix's  time  it  was 
a  veritable   maelstrom,   and  many  are  the  legends  of  its  terrors. 

There  is  a  special  peace  in  the  scene,  reminding  one  of  that  Se|Hember  morning, 
in  is^S.  when,  in  the  words  of  the  Clianson,  that  livens  many  an  evening  in  the 
habitant's  cottage, 

"I>e  Saint  Mdlo,  lii-au  port  ilc  Mvr 
Trois  j^rands  nai'ir'-s  soiit  nrrivfs," 


■ill 


\ 


'II 

11! 


rnii  liAsj  HHNMosi  iiU)ui-: 


ami     ihc    (,ra,„u-    llcriunu.     tlic     /',///,•    llawni,,     .,11.1    ihr     /■,».,  7/  .    • 

,  .  '     '"'"    '""      '■iiicnllou    swnni'    to    iheir 

ancliors   in    ihc   l.av   l,cliin,l    the   littlr   nnHniiiUorics   lliii    ,,,,         .  ,  , 

the  islaiul.     Oiir  can  almosi  imagine   that    the   -,ni.,.i     .,>  I        i  •  ■     . 

,,  ,  "  "*    ^'""   '"'•!  '^"1, . inn  strains  (.1   th..  Mass  whith 

,     ,       ,  ""    li''-t   imic  on   Canadian  soil 

and   the   l<:rvent   resnonscs  ol     lacoui's  Carticr   m.l    I,,     .  . 

....  '  .1.'    1UI.S  ^aiti.  I    an.l    In  ,  nim  arc    I .oriif  across  tin.-  water. 

But   It  IS    evening,   and    il„-  soft    sounds   we    lu^ar    ,„■.•    ili,.    ,  hi,,,,        r    n        v        >        r 
^,        ,        ,        .       ,  '"       ""     ihnncs  of    tlu;   Anfjelus    from 

the  churches  in   the  valleys. 

I  he   indi-ence  of  the   seene   must    be   inon-   ih-.n    .    .,      •         ■  •        . 

,         ,  """^'    '"'"'  •'    imsHm^r    mia-ination,   f.,r    to    this 

day  the  p.,ple  of  Isle  aux  Condres  are  note,)  U.  H.eir  preservation  of  the  simplicitv 
and  ,„tc.nty  of  life  tha,  distinguished  the  ,>al,Uauis  of  former  generations,  and  fc. 
tl-n-  devoutness.  Th-  .Al.h.  Cas.rain  is  authonty  U.  .he  statement  that  out  of  a 
population   o,   about    -50,    there  are   500  eoiuinuni.  ,u)l., 

I-he    Isl..  aux  Coudivs,  so   name<l    fn.m    th.   ha.  1    ,„..  ,■,,,„.,   f,„„,,   „,„^„    ,^  ,„^^.  „^ 
t^..   oldest  I-rench  settlements,  and    in    Uself    would    (nnn.h    material   for  an  artiele.      h  uas 
here   that,  in   ,;59.  Admiral    Durells  s.pia.lron    wait-d    ,.,-  ,h„   ,,.,   ,,   .Volfe's  expedition 
I  he  troops   camped   for    two    months  on    the   island,    uhose   people    ha.l   fled   to    the    n- 

ce.s.ses  of    the   hills   behind    l^aie   .St.    Paul       W^,,  ,a    ih,.   /  ,/„/      , 

'  ■""•       '^^"   "1    UK'   luthihiiit,.   eay;(,.r   to   cr^.t    n,;ws    for 

the  I^rench  Governor,  crossed  over  at  ni^lu,  ,u,d,  lyln,  in  ambush  amon,  the  rocks 
surprised  in  the  early  nu.rnin,  two  Kn.lish  ol.ice.s,  .ho„l  thev  earri.-d  off '  to  Quebec' 
one   beinir   Durell's  .i,rrandson. 

On   Cartier's  arrival   at   ,h,.   island   he   found    Indian,  ratehin.  porpoises.      The   Semi- 
nansts    of    Quebec,   who    are    the    sa.nnns,   are    s,„d   ,„    ,,,„„  „„.,,,,   „„   „„.   „^,,,       ^^^ 
early  as     ,686,   but    the    hist    regular    leas.s    of  1.    „.    ,h,.ir    .v...........  aiv  .,f    m-ieh 

later  date.  .\  couple  of  hundred  porpois.s  hav.  b.  e„  |,i|l„.,  ,„  „„.  ,,,,,.,  ^„^,  ^,^,.,.., 
"  '  "7^'  ''"  '"  ''''■  ■'""'  "'^'  ^'^'>-  "'-  hnndivd  and  ,„.„„„  „,,,,  ,„,,.  ,,^.,„„.,,,  „, 
on.  tide.  As  each  porpoise  yields  about  a  barivl  and  a  half  of  oil,  besides  th.- 
-1-  '^'  l-ther  th.  skm  affords,  the  work  is  prohtabl-  ,0  the  islanders,  though  it  has 
not  alwavs   proved    so   „.   H,,-  companies    ,ha,    from    Mm..   „■  time    have    established    flsh- 

"■^^"'  '  '"■^"  "^''"  '"  '^^""""•--'-''  ■\-"  '!'■  ^"■.  Anne,  and  Riviere  Ouelie.  The 
hsheries  or  ^V^,.  are  of  peculiar  construction,  S..p|i,„,  nfteen  to  twentv  fct  Ion, 
are  driven,  about  <.i.ht,.,  n  inches  apart,  into  th-  h.,u-  .helvin.  beach  from'hi.h  to  l.nv 
water-mark,  so  as  to  form  a  semicircular  hed,,,  .-ndin,  in  a  spiral  curve,  th-  r,rro. 
rhe  porpotses.  chasin.  the  shoals  of  herrin-.s  and  s„,e|„  ,ha.  come  up  the  riv..  close 
■n  shore  with  the  rising  tide  unconsciously  follow  their  pn.y  inside  the  /.vvi,.  Seekin-. 
to  ^et  out.  and  frightened  by  .he  saplings  shaking  in  ,he  strong  current,  they  swim 
a^on.  tlu.  hue  of  the  frail  barrier  till  they  are  in  the  .mok  at  its  end.  This  directs 
them  back  to  the  line  of  saplings;  they  follow  it  ..,ain  and  a.ain,  ahvavs  finding 
t  cmselves  confronted  b,  the  obstacle,  till,  terrffied  and  despairing,  thev  give  up  hope 
of  .scape.       The    falling    tide  leaves    them    either    .tn.nde.l  or    confined   to    stretches  of 


wiinj;  to  ihfir 
WL'sifin  end  oi 
tlif  Mass  which 

Canadian  soil 
OSS   tlu;   water. 

Angeliis    from 

n.  tiir  to  this 
the  simplicity 
tions,  and  for 
that    out    of   a 

luTC.    is    OIU'   <l| 

irlicl<-.  It  w  as 
■'s  i'X|)e(hti(in. 
;(l  to  the  rt- 
t,fet  n('\vs  for 
111,'  the  rocks. 
f   to    Oiiehec, 

I  hi:   .Semi- 
he   (ishery    as 
arc   of     ii;;ich 
111.   and    there 
captured    in 
besides     tile 
lion^h   it   has 
ibhshed    fish- 
)iie!Ie,       The 
y     feel     lout,'. 
lii.L;h   to   low 
,    the     racroi. 
e   river  clos-e 
hi.      Seekiny; 
tliey    swim 
This  directs 
lays    findinjr 
ive  ii[)  hope 
stretches  of 


OF    ri/H   CONT/NHNT 


•5J 


Ml'KR.W     HAY. 

shallow    water,     where 
they    are    ]iiirsiie(l    liy 
boats,   and    kilhid   with 
har[)oon    and    lance.        The    water, 
foaming    untler    their    xit^^oi-ons     ef- 
forts    to     a\oid    the    fate    they    seem     to     know     is 
coming,    turns    red    with    bloodv     foam,    and    their 


i 


ii>  : 


'54 


THK  HASTERXMOST  RIDGE 


1^^  i      MS:h 

|)itt;c)ii^  noise  minj,rU's  with  the  shouts  of  tho  excited  (ishermen.  It  is  a  lively  scene 
to  watch  at  first,  hut  soon  iK-comes  a  cruelly  murderous  one.  'I'he  massacre  is  soon 
over,  for  the  porpoises  keep  together  and  show  no  tij,dit,  being  in  reality  as  inoffen- 
sive and  iieipless  as  sheep,  notwithstanding  their  great  size;  they  are  from  fifteen 
to  twenty  feet  and  more  in  length.  The  stories  of  their  devotion  to  their  young, 
of  which  the\  have  generally  onl\  one.  and  carry  it  upon  their  fins  close  to  their 
breast,  arr  vf-ry  touching.  The  mother  will  remain  to  be  killed  rather  than  leave  the 
littlr  one. 

Hut  if  you  woukl  know  all  there  is  to  tell  about  the  Isle  aux  Coudres,  you  must 
maki  a  mental  "Pilgrimage"  thither  with  the  Abbe  Casgrain,  or  a  "Promenade" 
around   it   with   the   Abbe    Mailloux,    its  ciiarming  historians. 

I'roui  Les  Eboulements  ilownwards  the  majestic  wall  of  mountains  continues  un- 
broken, except  where  the  deep  recess  of  Murray  Hay  affords  vistas  of  mingled 
lov(!liness  and  grandeur,  ,in;l  whi^n;  a  few  small  streams  forcing  their  precipitous  way 
through  the  rocky  barrier  indent  the  stern  shore-line  with  picturesque  coves.  All 
at  once,  ;is  you  ski>-t  -St.  Catherine's  Hay,  and  round  Pointe  Noire,  the  mountains  are 
cleft  by  a  mighty  rift,  and  a  tremendous  chasm  opens  to  view,  black,  forbidding,  like 
the  entranc<;  to  a  world  beneath  the  mountains.  Did  Roberval  and  his  men  feel  this 
sudden  awe  when  they  turned  from  the  brightness  of  the  liroad  St.  Lawrence  in  quest  of 
gold  as  elusive  as  the  sunbeams  dancing  on  the  waves,  and  began  that  voyage  of  which 
no  man.  to  this  day.  knows  the  ending  ?  Did  ihey  feel  this  shrinking  from  the  hills 
tluu  rise  everywhere  in  indignant  protest  ?  Or  is  it  only  the  wind,  fresh  and  keen,  and 
bringing  a  strange  sense  of  solitutle  from  tlu;  unknowr.  and  mysterious  north  land,  that 
strikes  us  with  this  chill  ;  and  only  tiie  misty  cloud  of  a  rain-sciuall  that  hides  the 
summits,  and  for  a  moment  obscures  the  sun.  that  brings  this  gloom  ?  The  evil  spirits 
surely  have  not  left  the  frowning  cape  which  Champlain  named  La  J'ointc  dc  tons  Ics 
niahlc.s.  One  expects  to  meet  them  just  as  verily  as  did  the  little  band  of  Recollets, 
who  landed  at  Tadoussac  in  the  year  of  grace,  1615,  to  begin  their  valiant  crusade 
against  th(-  Father  of  Lies  and  his  allies  of  both  worlds  ;  and,  as  diti,  the  Jesuit  Pere 
Du(iuen.  in  1647.  and  Father  .\lbanel  twenty-fiv('  years  later,  when  he,  Monsieur  de 
.St.  .Simon  and  the  son  of  Sieur  (iiidlaume  Couture,  made  their  lonely  way  up  this 
unknown  river  through  the  wilds  of  Mistassini  to  distant  Hudson's  Hay.  You  are  at 
tile  mouth  of  the  Saguenay.  In  a  moment  its  weird  fascination  has  seized  you,  and 
will  hold  you  speli-bomii  <  .j  long  as  you  sail  through  the  .stillness  that  broods  over 
the   mountain   shores  which  confine  its  deep  black  waters. 

Jaccjues  Cartier  anchored  here  on  the  1st  September,  1533,  having  heard  so  much 
about  the  riches  of  the  realm  of  Saguenay  from  the  Indians  of  Gaspe,  in  his  voyage  to  the 
Baie  des  Chaleurs  in  the  i)receding  year,  that  he  was  doubtless  anxious  to  possess  them 
speedily.       The    accounts    I)onnacf)na,   the    Sachem  of  Stadacona,  afterwards  gave    him. 


OF   THE    CONTINENT 


a  lively  scene 
isacre  is  soon 
ty  as  inoffen- 
from  fifteen 
their  young, 
lose  to  their 
han  leave  the 

es,  you    must 
'  Promenade" 

continues  un- 
of  mingled 
ecipitous  way 
coves.  All 
lountains  are 
rbidding,  like 
nen  feel  this 
ce  in  quest  of 
■age  of  which 
om  the  hills 
nd  keen,  and 
rth  land,  that 
at  hides  the 
le  evil  spirits 
tc  dc  ious  ics 
of  Rdcollets, 
liant  crusade 
;  Jesuit  Pere 
Monsieur  de 
way  up  this 
You  are  at 
;ed  you,  and 
broods    over 

ard  so  mucii 
oyage  to  the 
jossess  them 
Is  gave    him, 


I5S 


were  well  calculated    to    tire    the    .Mithusiasm  of    subsequent    French    explorers,   wjjile    at 
the  same  time   possessing  that  full  share  of  the  marvellous,   which  in    those    days  seems 
to  have  been  convincing  proof.       It    was  a    country  full    of   gold    and    rubies,   inhabit...! 
l.\-  white   men   clothed   in   w.k,I  ;     but   farther  off    there  were   nations  of    one-legged    m.^n, 
and  others  who  lived    without    eating,   and,   happy   beings!     had   n..  stomachs."     Many  a 
story  of  these   wilds   has    been    told   since    Donnacona's  time,   and  quite  as  well  «,ualili...l 
bs  a  ting..  ,.f  th...  supernatural  to  discourage  tin.  venturesome  and  unwelcome  expiorern. 
It    woul.l    1...    a    happy    thing    fcr    th<:    remnants    of    the     Indians    were    they   like    their 
legendary  ancestors ;    peoph;  with  on.;    i,.g    could    not    wander    too    far,    and    failure    of 
gam,-  wonl.l   matt.r    littl..    to    men   without    need    of    food;     whereas,    now-a-days,   hardly 
a  winter  pass.-s    without    some    of    the    Montagnais    perishing  miserably   from    starvation 
on    hunting    excursions.       The    incentives,    however,   were    so    great    that    Roberval    was 
c.mmissioned,    in     ,540.    as  '■  vur  roi  ct   lieutenant  general  en   Canada,    Hochclaga,  Saf^ue- 
nay.     Terre    .Veuve.    Belle-Zsle.    Carpont.    Labrador,    la    Grande    liaie   et   liaecalao.C      ||,. 
sailed  in    154;,,   but    ih.t    expedition  was   a    failure,   notwithstanding  Cartier's  farther   dis- 
cov.-ries  in    ,542.       Th,-    .liamonds    and   gold    that  Cartier's  men   showed  Roberval  have 
never    sine-    been     fou.id,    and     in    1544    Cartier    made    another    voyage    to    bring    the 
wretched  survivors  back  to    France.     Roberval,  it  is  said,  again   returned  to  the  .St.  Law- 
ren.e,  an.!  with  all   his    company  sailed  up  the  .Sagu.Miay  ;  they  were  never  heard  of  again, 
The   Maloiuns,    Normans  and   Hascpies,   who  frequented   the    Lower  .St.   Lawrence  to 
fish    an.l    to    trade    for    furs,    used    to   go    as    far  as  Tadous.sac  before  Champlain's  time, 
and  had  penetrated  a  good  way  up  the  river  before  c-ven  Cartier;    for  they    had    (ished 
on    the    banks    of    Newfoundland    and  on  the   Labrador  coast  for  many  years  before  his 
day;    while  the    traditions    of    Dieppe    tell    of   one    Thomas    Aubert,    who    ascended    th.- 
St.    Lawrence  240  miles,  ami  brought  an   Indian   to   !•  ranee  in    1508. 

Pontgrave  was  one  of  tlu;  adventurous  merchants  and  captains  of  St.  Malo,  He 
had  made  several  voyages  to  ra.ioussac,  and,  with  a  kindred  spirit,  Pierre  Chaiivin, 
was  commanded  to  found  a  colony  and  establish  the  Catholic  faith  there;  for  every 
commission  in  those  days  contained  this  pious  clause,  seriously  enough  meant,  but 
generally  interpreted  as  a  license  to  ••  spoil  the  Kgyptians."  While  Pontgrave  preferred 
Three  Rivers  as  a  post,  Chauvin  laid  in  a  supply  of  furs  at  Tadoussac,  where  sixte.tn  of 
his  men  spent  a  wretched  winter  of  hunger  and  cold  in  1599.  Hut,  from  this  timer 
out,  th..  true  sources  of  wealth  in  the  Saguenay  country  were  better  appreciated,  an<l 
visions  of  gokl  mines  gave  way  to  realities  of  cargoes  of  valuable  furs,  while  th<! 
terrors  of  the  interior  have  done  service  in  perpetuating  monopolies  down  to  our  own 
day  The  superiority  of  the  hunting,  trapping,  and  fishing  in  this  region  was  early 
recognized,  and.  as  the  means  of  drawing  the  largest  po.ssible  read)  money  revenue 
from  it.  it  was  leased  for  twenty-one  years  at  a  time,  in  one  vast  block  of  70.000 
miles  in  area,  three  hundred  miles  long    from    Les    Kboulements    to    the    Moisic    River. 


9 

■ 

B 

-'<i^l 

ll. 

■ 

••1 

■■^mmm 

Nl 

»! 

^^H 

%\ 

^;B 

*». 

,^H 

:.«: 

^^1 

»M 

'^^H 

■*« 

i^H 

: 

m 

<56 


THE   hASTERN'MOSJ    /<//)(,/• 


» 


fc:: 


F.NTRANrF.     TO     SAGUKNAV     KIVKK. 

and    stretchint;    b.uk    tn    the 

water-shed    nf    Ihidsoris    liay. 

Thus      the     ••Roj'aumc      dii 

SacTuenay"  became  the  "  I)o- 

maine  dii    Roi." 

In    1642   the   port   of  Tad- 

oussac  was  given  \>\  \Y  Ar- 
ofenson  tn  twelve  nf  the  best 
/>our,.-o.s  in   the  country.      The  first   regular  lease    was    u,    ,he    Sieur    1  ),.maure    in    ...s^ 

The  Conseil  d'  Etat  ordered  a  careful  survey  to  be  made  i„  ,677,  but  the  work  was 
nnt  earned  out  till  ,732.  when  the  surveyor  Norman.iin  .  ompiete.l  a  most  faithful 
swvey  and  map,  from  which  the  limits  were  fixed  in  the  ordonnance  of  the  Intendant 
Hocquart  m  xj:,:,.  The  Saguenay  country  was  lu-tter  known  during  the  l->euch 
rc'gimc  than  the  country  in  the  interior  between  Oueb.-c  and  Montreal,  After  the 
Ce.ss.on  of  Canada  to  England.  "The  Kings  I'osts"  continued  to  be  leased  everv 
twenty-one  years;    but  as  it  was  decidedly  to    the    interests    of   the    lessees    to  keep  the 


OF    FHK   CONTliVHNT  ,57 

n-sources  of  tlu-  territory  unknow,,,  .v.rythinjr  was  don.  to  mcourage  bdiel  in  its 
stenl.ty.  m  the  severity  of  its  climate,  in  tl,e  dangerous  nature  of  the  navigation  in 
the  height  of  and  numher  of  the  falls  and  rapids  to  he  sunnounted ;  in  short  evlry- 
ih.ng  to  foster  the  general  ignorance  of  the  countrj.  an.l  to  prevent  competition,  for 
the  annual  rental  of  this  immense  tract,  with  all  the  exclusive  privileges,  was  measured 
l.y  a  few  hundreds  of  poun.ls.  In  ,8.0,  Monsieur  1'.  Tache,  the  sd^ncur  of  Kamouras- 
ka,  was  examined  before  a  Committ.x-  of  the  Legislative  Assembly  of  Lower  Canada 
Ho  ha<l  lived  at  Lake  St.  John  for  twenty-two  years,  and  what  he  had  to  say  of  the 
forests,  the  richness  of  the  soil,  the  climate,  and  the  mineral  wealth  of  that  fertile 
valley,  came  hke  a  revelation.  The  exploration  made  by  Houchette  in  ,828  brought 
...nfinnation  of  all  thi.s.  and  promise  of  uu.ch  more;  but  the  lease  :.  the  Hudson's 
Bay  Company  had  not  yet  expired,  and  it  was  not  till  ,837  that  the  f.rst  steps  could 
Ik-  taken  towards  settlement. 

The  good  work  was  pushed  on  despite  all  difficulties  by    the    brave    colonists    fron, 
the  south  shore  parishes;    little  by   littl,-  lonely  trading  posts,   known  onlv  to    the  great 
Company,  the  Indians,   and  the  dauntless  n,issionaries,   became    thrivmg  villa-^es  •    a  belt 
of   settlements  has  spread  from  .St.   Alphonse  and  Chicoutimi,  past   the  lonely  shores  of 
Lake    kenogami,    west    and    far    north    in    the    rich    and    beautiful    valley    of    Lake    St 
John,    where  the    big    pines    fell    beneath    the    lumberers    ax<     such    a    short    time    ago 
there    are    now    smiling    fields    of    grain    and    rich    pastures.       And    the    work    goes  ^on 
l>ravely    still,     for    there    is     room    for    many    h.mdreds    of    thousands    of    people    with 
wdhng    hearts    and     ready    hands.       The    "premieres    annees"    are    only    just   gone,    of 
wh.ch  it  is  so  strange  to  hear  from  men.   many  of    whom  are  lineal  descendants  of    the 
l.rst  settlers  who  set  foot  in   La  Nouvelle  France.     What  old    Boucher    told    Colbert    in 
.663.   when  he  went   home   to   repr.-sent   the  wants  of    the  colony,    is  just  as  true  of    the 
Canadian  settlements   to-day  :-'■  /..   />cr.s-o,n,rs-  ,j,u  sont   bonnes  da„s  ce  Pays  ify  sonl  des 
Xens  gu>  mettent  la  main  a  /'  ^euvrer  and    his    advice    to    emigrants    is    full    of   commo.i 
sense  :  -••  Tous  les  fiauvres  ^ens  seroient  hien  mieux  ify   ,;n'cn    France,   pourveu    quils    ne 
/usseni  pas  paresseux  .■    en    un  mot  il  ne  faut  personne  ify,  tant  homme  ^ue  Jemme,  </u> 
ne   soil  propre   a    meitre    la    main   h  l'  wuvre,    a   mains  que  d'  est  re  bien  ric/ie."      "Les 
hoguois  nos  ennnnis"  live  peacefully  at  Caughnawaga;    one  must  go  farther  still  to  see 
any  rattlesnakes;    the   long    winters    an,l    the    mosquitoes.    "  autrement    appellds    Cousins." 
are  all  that  one  can   now   point    out    as    "  :~oila   les  plus  grands  ineommoditez   dont  fay 
amnoissaneer  and  even  the>-  are  not  so  bad  as  they  used  to  be.       In    truth,  the  Sague- 
nay  ,s  but  the  gateway  to   a    magnificent    country    beyond,  and    the    French    Canadians 
have  a  North-west  of   their  own  at  their  very  doors. 

Tadoussac.  as  we  see  it  from  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay.  is  to  outward  appear- 
ance much  as  it  was  in  Champlain's  time.  His  description  of  it  answers  as  well  to-day 
as  then  : 


S 


-ill 


'58 


////;•   /wt.S/hRNMOST  R/DdE 


••/,<■  ,//,/  /„;/  ,/,  r,uio„ssa.  rst  />c/,f,  oh  il  ,„■  pouryoil  ,,uc  dix  ou  dome  vaisseaux  .- 
»iais  ay  a  dc  I'cau  assy's  a  //-st,  .)  /'ahy  dc  h  diltr  Rivihr  dv  Saffucuav,  U  lo„^  d'unc 
Mite  Montaigne  .,ui  est  pns,,,,,-  amp.',  de  h  ,n,r.  /.,■  n-sfe  „■  sonf  A/on/a/^n,^  haulhs 
cUvc'es  oit  ,7  y  a  f,cu  dc  hrre,  sinon  nn/urs  ct  s,dd.:s  ran  pi  is  dc  bois  d,  pins,  cyprcz, 
utpins  ct  ,jue/,fms  manicrs  d\irl'::  J,-  p,„,  f,  ,  „  ,,„  ,,///  ,,a,;,^,  p,.,,-/,,  ,/,,  y,y  ^,„.^ 
irn/fnm^  dc  Monttiii^iics  convert  a,  dc  tiois." 

"Tho  saitl  port  of  Tacloussac  is  small,  ami  ,..„KI  iu.I.I  only  ten  or  tw.-lvc  vcsst-ls  ; 
hut  tiu-n-  is  water  onou^rh  to  tlu  .-ast,  shdtfro.i  l.y  thr  sai.l  River  of  .Sa«ucnay.  alon,; 
a  little  mountain  which  is  almost  cut  in  two  l.y  the  sea.  l-or  the  rest  there  are 
mountains  of  hi-h  elevation,  where  there  is  little  soil,  except  rocks  an.l  sands  fille<l 
with  wood  of  pines,  cypresses,  spruces,  an.l  some  kinds  of  un.l.Twood.  There  is  a  little 
pond   near  the   said   port,   enclosed   hy   mountains  cov<Te<l   with   wood." 

Not  much  of  the  villa-e  is  visil.lr  from  the  mouth  nf  the  river;  it  lies  on  the 
hrst  of  the  henches  scarped  in  th<.  enormous  hanks  of  alluvium  and  san.l  that  were 
washed  down  here  and  lod^a,)  i,,  the  Hanks  of  the  hills,  when  this  stupendous  rent  in 
th.-  earth  made  a  new  outlet  for  the  waters  of  ,.  ^^eat  inland  s.a,  that  must  rhen 
hav  exi.sted,  and  farther  evidences  of  which  we  shall  see  .,t  th,.  other  .md  of  ti,e 
.Saifuenay. 

Clumps  of  pyramid-lik..    spruces  cover  the   secon.l   lev.^l.   round    which   ih..  hills  close 
in   complete  s.^micirde.      Th<.  vi.-w    from   this   plafat,   is   >na^rnif,cent.      In   front    vou   look 
across    the    .St.     l.awn.nc...    her,,    tw.nty-five    miU's    wid.s    an.l    as    sm.,oth    p.^rhaps    as    a 
sheet  of  Riass,  past    11...  au.x  lai;vr..s.  ll...   Hour,..  II,..  Mlanch...  11...  Wrl...  ...wards  Cac.nna 

and    Rivi.".re  du    l.oup   wl-.er..   th..  south   sh..r..  is  hut  a   narrow   hlue  streak  s..wn  ,dl   over 
with   white  specks,  visihie    only  ..n   a  clear.    hri.c;ht   smnmer  .lay   like  this.      .\,    the  .sid,.  is 
th..  dark  Sajruenay.    an.l   from    this  h-.i^in   y,,,,  dearly  see  th.-   w..ll-d,.r,ne.i   lin..  where  its 
hlack   waters  and  deep  he.l   meet   th..   hluc  and  shallow   St.   Lawrenc...  and  vou   .lescry  .he 
r....fs  where  the   tid.-rip    ihn.ws  stran-e   frowns  into   the  calm   facv  of  th..  slr.am  ;    up  t<. 

the   rijrht   you   enlilad.'   th..  coast    we  hav..   just   pas.sed. 

The    i,i.tj  hotel   is    always   ftdl.   f,.r   Tadoussac   is  a  charmin.^r    pla,,.    to  spend  a   sum- 
mer  in.      l.,.r.l     Dufferin    foun.l    it  s...   an.l    his    .-.xampl,.    hn.u.i^dit    ..thers  to    huild    ptvLy 
cotta-es.       Champlain's  '•  petit    estan.Lj"    is  n.,u-   .h..   lak,-  that   suppli.^s   th..   ponds  of  tite 
Government    Fi.sh-breedinir     estal.lishment     .lown     at     th.-     .\nse    a     THau,    where    you 
may    se.-    thousands  of  youn«-  salm.m   in    all    sta.^es    of  developnu-nt.     from    th,.    ova'  to 
lively    little    fellows    a    coupl..  ..f    inch,,.s     l,.n-,   r.>ady    to   people    the    shallows    ..f    so,n,. 

.lepleted  river;  and  you  ma>-  watch  hundr,..ls  of  th..  parent  hsh  swimming  ,na- 
jesti.:ally  ro.m.l  the  p.,n.l  at  the  outlet,  ..r  leapin.^r  i,,  vain  at  th..  n.:t-work  harrier 
that  separates  them  from  the  .Sa-uenay  ami  freedom.  The  Hudson's  Hav  C.,>npany's 
l-ost  is  worth  seein-  thougli  sadly  shorn  ui  its  lorm.-r  .trh.ries  in  th..  .laN  s  of  monopoly. 
Rut  chief  in  inter...st  is  the  littl.'  church,  built  in    ,750.  on  .h..  si...  of    th..    hark-covered 


OF   THH   CONTINIiXT 


«59 


ze  vatsseaux  ; 

t/x')ii\\  liaultts 

pins,    cyprc-, 

</ii  lilt  pott. 

/elvc  vessels ; 
iienay.  alont,' 
■St  there  an- 
sands  fillfd 
•re  is  a  little 

lies  on  ihf 
11(1  that  were 
doiis  rent  in 
t    niiist  then 

ind   of    till' 

)••  hills  close 
111  yon  look 
erhaps  as  a 
nis  Cacoinia 
)\vn  all  o\(r 
I  tlu-  side  is 
nv  where  its 
u  descry  iIk- 
■•■.im  ;    up  to 

x.-nti  a    suin- 

liuild    |irctty 

ends  of  tile 

where    you 

the    ova    to 

r's    of    soinc 

111  mint;    nia- 

ork    I)arrier 

(-  onipan\'s 

monopoly. 

ark-covered 


Hit  which  ser\fd  as  a  mission 
chapt'l  until  ihc  lirst  cluiirh  was 
Imilt  in  164S.  l''i-(im  M)j;g  to  ijSj, 
when  th('  secular  clerks  --uccccdcd 
them,  the  Jesuits  did  a   iioMe  work. 

I  here  w,i>  a  inissionar\  licld  for 
yon,  -  from  the  .Sai^ucnay  .iway 
down  to  .Sept  lies,  and  from  tlit- 
St.  Lawrence  hack  to  Hudson's 
Hay.  The  story  of  their  lievotion 
IS  litly  closed  by  the  wondf-rfiii 
legend  of  the  last  Jesuit  who  gatli- 


'»•«. 


MMkl 

III  'fur, 


160 


' 

i 

if 

III 

iv 

u 


7///:-  HASTHRNMOST  R/lXili 


OF   THE   CONTINENT  i6, 

ered  the  swarthy  Moatagnais  round  him  in  this  very  church,  Pcrc  La  Brosse  whose 
memory  .s  dear  amono,  them  to  this  day.  It  comes  from  an  eye-witness,  who  died 
>n    1674.  and    is  thoroughly  well  attested;    explain  it  as  you  ma)-. 

The  father  ha.l  been  workin,.  hard  all  day.  as    usual,    amon,    his    converts    and    in 
.  e  services  of   the  church,  and  had  spent  the  evening  in  pleasant  converse    with    some 
of   the  officers  of   the    post.      Their  ama^ement  and  incredulity  may  be  imagined  when 
as  he  got  up  to    go,  he  bade  them  good-bye  for  eternity,  and  announced  that    at    mid^ 
n.ght  he   would    be   a    corpse,  adding    that    the    bell    of    his    chapel    would    t.        for   his 
passing  soul  at    that  hour.       He  told  them  that  if    they  did  not  believe  him  they  could 
go  and  see  for  themselve.s,  but  begged  them  not    to    touch    his    body.      He    bade  them 
fetch    Messire    Compain,  who  would  be  waiting  for  tnem  ne.vt    day  at  the  lower  end  of 
Isle  au.x  Coudres,  to  wrap  hi„,  in   his  shroud  and   bury  him  ;   and  this  they  were  to  do 
wuhout  heeding  what  the  weather  should    be,   for    he    would    answer    for    the    safety   of 
those    who    undertook    the    voyage.       The    little    party,    astounded,   sat.  watch    in    hand 
.narkn.g  the  hours  pass,  till  at  the  first  stroke  of  midnight  the  chapel-bell  began  to  toll' 
and.  trembling    with    fear,    they    rushed    into  the    church.     There,    prostrate  'before   the 
altar,  hands   joined  in  prayer,  shrouding  his    face    alike    from    the    lirst    glimpse    of   the 
valley  of   the  shadow  of   death,  and  from  the  dazzling  glory  of    the  waiUng  angels,  lay 
lere    La    Brosse,    dead.      What    fear   and    sorrow    must    have    mingled    with    the    pious 
nopes  and  tender  prayc.s  of  those  rough  traders  and   rougher  Indians  as.    awe-stricken 
they  kept  vigil   that  April  night.       With  sunrise  came  a  violent    storm  ;    but  mindful  oi 
h,s  command  and  promise,   four  brave  men   risked  their  lives  on  the    water       The    l.sh 
-ng  waves  parted   to   form  a  calm   path   for  their  canoe,   and   wondrouslv  soon   they  were 
at    Isle    aux    Coudres.       There,    as    had    been    foretokl    by     Pere     La  '  Brosse,    was    M 
Compain  waiting  on  th.  rocks,    breviary  in   hand,   and  as  soon  as  thev  were  in  hearing 
lus  shout  told  them   he  knew  their  strange  errand.      For  the  night  bjfore  he    had    been 
n,ysteriously  warned;    the  bell  of    his    ciuu-ch   was  tolled  at  n,idniglu  by  invisible  hands 
and  a  voice  had  told    hin,    what    had    happene.l    and    w.ns    yet    to    happen,  and    had    bid 
hm.  be  ready  to  do  his  office,      in    all    the    missions    that    I'ere    La    Brosse    had    served 
the  church  bells,,  it   is  said,   marked   that   night   his  dying  moment. 

To  this  charming  legend  the  Abbe  Casgrain  a.lds  T  '•  For  many  years  the  Indians 
gomg  up  and  down  the  Saguenay,  never  passed  Tadoussac  vithout  pra^  in.,  in  the 
church  where  reposed  the  body  of  hi,n  who  had  been  to  then,  the  in,a..e'\,f  their 
Heavenly  Father.  They  prostrated  themselves  with  faces  to  tlu.  ground^  above  his 
tomb.  and.  placing  their  uKutths  at  a  little  opening  n,ade  in  the  door  of  the  choir 
they  tad.ed  to  him  as  in  his  lifetime,  with  a  confidence  that  cotdd  not  fail  to  touch 
(.od-s  heart.  Then  th.y  applied  their  ears  to  the  oritice  to  hear  the  saint's  answer 
In  the  ingenuousness  of  their  faith  an.l  simplicity  of  their  hearts  they  ima-vined  that 
the  good  father  heanl  tluMu  in  his    coffin,  that  he  answered    their    questions,  and    after- 


\  '' 


3li 


16_' 


niE  EASTERNMOST  RIDGE 


m't 


M 


<ffe' 

IT'" 
f 


UNUKR    CAFE     TRINITY. 


wards  transmiicecl  to 
Tjod     tlicir     prayers, 
i  Ill's     tuiitliino-     cus- 
toiii  lias  ceased  siiuc 
tlu;    remoxal    of    the 
remains  of    I'ere    I. a 
Brosse;      tlie     alian- 
donmeiu     and      ruin 
into  which  the  chapel 
of      Tadoussac     had 
fallen     d(!cided      the 
removal       of      these 
holy     relics    a    ^ood 
many    years    ago    to 
the  Church   of  Chi(- 
outlmi." 

I  he      missionaries 
had     not    always     to 
deal  with  such  docile 
savayes,    for,   in    thi- 
summer  of  1661,   the 
Iro(|uois     descentled 
to      Tadoussac     and 
killed  several  French- 
men.     Fathers   Dah- 
!on     and     Druilletes 
escajieil.  ha\inj;  start- 
ed  u|)    the    river    on 
a    journey    to    Hud- 
son's  l?ay,    in    which 
expedition,    however, 
they  dill  not  succeed. 
In    162S  the    Kertks 
took     possession      of 
the    post,    and     on(,' 
may  be  sure  thai,  in 
thoso     da\s   of    !).-!!!! 
knocks    and     stronjj 
opinions,  the  Jesuits 


transiniiictl  t( 


OF   THE   CONTINENT  163 

'"';'"   ^'^'•^-"  -"  -    ^'-   '^-uls    of    Hu,.,.nots.   .ho   fo.  thei,-    religion    had    to    .ive 

ni>  then-  nationahty  and  sen  k   s,M-via-   n-lth    lui-land 

In  a-ndin,  .h.  Sa,.,..,   ^o,-  .he   li,-s.  .•.„   ,..    ,,.,.    ,,    ,,    ,,,^„^^^.    ,^    ^^^^^^^ 

■n.,  .u..yth,n.  ,s  d..c,,,t,v.:,  till  -vn,  a  f^din,  of  disappointment  mingles  with  that  of 
-0.  Nonve^an  hords  a..  ..-and..,-,  and  th.  Rhin..  is  nu.,.  picturescp,,.,  so  the  .lih 
tounsts  say  as  they  wond.,-  at  the  impression  which  these  see,nin,lv  low  hills  so  ;,- 
c^^   y  -nake  ..pon   all   on   l.oanl.      H„t   hy  decrees   the  in^nu-nsity  and  ...jestv  assert   then,- 

el..s.     As  an   abrupt   tnrn   brings  ,he  stea,ner  close   in   sl,ore.  you   realise   U.t  the  other 

''  '\  •'  '"''  ""  '""  '""^^  ''^'"''  ^'"'  ''''''  ^'"^  '''-'^  '--'  ^^^  'He  base  of  the 
.nounta,ns  .l,,ch  rod  away  one  beyond  the  other.  ,s  in  truth  the  shadowed  face  <.f  a 
-.hty  ch,f,    ns,n,  sheer  fron.   the  water's  ed,e.  like   that  which   now  to.ers  nearly   two 

^-r^'"'   '-'^f^^'^  >■-•      '^'--  -  -   -'---'l-^K-  .nuKleur  in   the   .erv  .onotc^^y  .f 
the  ,ntern.nable  succession  of    precipice  and   .o.,e.   of    lofty    LUdT   and    d^ep-hewn    bay 
no  mere  monotony  of    outline,    for  every  bend  of    the   river  changes  ti,e   picture,   in    tie 
n.a,est,c  panorama    of    hills,   .ater.   and    sky.  and    every    rock    has  its  individuahty  •    but 
e  overwhelnun.  reiteration  of    the  same    ,rand    then,e    with    infinite    variety  of    derail 
.n^uu.   senses    are    overpowered    by    the    evidences    of    mi.hty    force-force, 'w.ich    von 
now     as    sure  y    as    you    see    those    ,rim     masses    of    syenite,    split    and     rent    by  'u,,- 
eaval.    seame      and    sc  .rred    by    ice-ber.s.    was    once    suddenly,    irresistibiv    active     but 
as  now   lam   dorn.un   for  a,es  of  a,es.      There  is  the   inevitable  sternness' of  the  mani- 
f-tat,on    of    ,reat    power,    and    this    efTect    is    heightened    by    the    transparency    of    the 
atmosphere,   wh.ch  allows  no  softenin,  of    the  clear-cut    lines,  and    heightens    their    bold 
s.eep  by  .ntense  shadows  sharply  defined.      There    is    no  rich   foliage;    forest  fires  iutve 
s^P    an     blacken.,  the  hill  tops;   a  scanty  growth  of    sombre  firs  and  slender  birches 

aong  the  s.des  o  the  ravn.s  and  on  the  ledges  of  t:.  cliffs,  wh.e  the  naked  rock 
s  ows  thro^  the  tops  of  trees.  The  rare  signs  of  life  only  accentuate  the  lonely 
stdness.       A  few  log-houses  on  an  opportune  ledge    that    overhangs   a    ni.he-like    cove 

w  .tc  sad  n.  the  d.stance.  and  a  wary  loon,  whose  mocking  call  echoes  from  the  rocks - 
what  are  they  .n  the  face  of  these  hills  which  were  made  when  "the  springs  of  watlrs 
were  seen,  and  the  foundations  of   the  round  world  were  discovered." 

borne  wruers  describe  the  Saguenay  as  cold,  dreary,  inhuman,  gloomy.  .Surely 
hey  never  saw  ,t  with  the  light  of  the  rising  sun  streaming  through  *  its  gorges,  glad- 
en-ng  .ts  vast  solitudes,  dancing  on  the  ripple  of  the  current,  g',  mh,g  over  the  bL. 
calm  bays,  pLay.ng  on  the  waterfalls  that  shine  like  silver  threads  among  the  dark- 
green  firs,   searching  j,  a  n 


the 


inn 


colour   into    sj 


Htern 


■ost  recesses  of  the  giant    clefts,    thro 


Srey    s)enite   and   sombre   gneiss.      Did    th< 
ity   down    through  unfathomable   depths,  and 


Dwing   warmth  and 

!y    trace  the    reflection    of   Cape 

then  with  bewildered  eye  follow  the 


!) 
tit 


164 


THE  EASTERNMOST  RIDGE 


unbroken  .w.*-,.  „f  that  calm  profil.  upwards  and  upwards,  till  si^rlu  was  l.d  on  p  .s, 
the  cloud,  imu  ,h,-  inr.nito?  Had  the  triune  majesty  of  Cape  Trinity,  stem,  solemn 
and  mysterio.m,  no  <,ther  impression  for  them  than  one  of  ,ir|oom  ?  Did  these  moun- 
tam  w,ills  nut  ...m,  to  them  like  lofty  portals,  guidinj.  straight  into  the  opal  glory  tha, 
l.glus  tl,.-    w.M.rn  Hky    at    sunset?     Throughout    all  this  grandeur  of   lonely  Nature    in 

''"-''■  ^"'''"^^^  '" ''  *'•'  --'^  ^^^-^^  ^i  calm   whici,  tempers  awe.     You   feel  why  the  Poet  Kinn 

found  in  t|,«  K^^nt  rocks  his  imagery  of  security,  and  how  truly  he  sang,  ••  The  moun^'. 
tains  also  «hall  l<n'(ig  peace." 

Aft.-r   sixty    miles    of  this    overpowering    ruggedness,   the  fields    and    houses   arou.,,1 
Ha-Ha    Hay    Wm^  hack  a   memory    of    civilization.-not  a  very  pronomiced    impression 
for  the  little  hait.lct.  of  St.   Alphonse  and  St.    .Alexis,  and   the  scattered  cottages  which 
are    with  dirfltuilty    distinguished    from    the   gigantic   boulders    strewn    along   the   slopes 
seem   lost  in    the  vast    amphitheatre.       The    story   goes  that    the    bay    was    named    from 
the  surprised    hui^h  of  the  first    I'Vench  e.xplorers  who,   sailing  as  they    thought  straight 
up  the  river,   fotin.l   themselves  in   this    huge  cul-de-sac.       The    name    is   apter  to  express 
the  feeling  of  rdief  one  experiences  uiien  ti,e  mountains  recede  for  a  space,  and  afTord 
as    it   were  X^mnm   to    speak    with    unbated    breath.      To    a   geologist  the    traces  of  the 
great  convuUioii  are    nowhere    more  striking    than    here,   where    you    have  the  evidences 
of  an  almost    in,;oilceivable    torrent.     The  bay  is,    in  truth,  simply  what  is    left  unfilled 
of    one    bmil'4h    of     the    Saguenay    cleft.        Twenty    miles     straigiu    on    inland,     Lakr 
Kenogami,    flfto-n  miles  long,    half   a    mile    wide,  a    thousand  feet  deep,    surrounded  In 
cliffs  an.i   n,ouiUm.1.,  confirms  the  proof  that   the   immense  alluvial  deposits,    which    form 
the  greater  |)in-t  of  the  peninsular-shaped  strip    from  Lake    St.  John  to  where  the    Sag- 
uenay and   \UAUx  Hay  separate,  are  the  ,/.■/;;■/.,   washed  down  by  a  tlood  like  thousands 
of    Niagaras  WAm^^   through    an   abyss    opened  in  a  moment.     The  islands  in   Lake  St. 
John,  and  the  ^i.l.mtli.    rocky    hillocks   tiiat    occur   so    strangely  in    the    clay-lands  above 
Chicoutimi,  artt  the  water-polished  tops  of   mountains  buried    in  sand  and  clay. 

At  lla-Ha  May  arable  lands  begin.  Once  beyond  the  hill  and  ^„u  can  drive  on  a 
goo<l  ro,-.d  one  iMmdrcd  and  fifty  miles  or  so  over  a  score  of  rivers,  away  past  the 
souLlv-wcst  shore  <,f  Lake  St.  John.  Many  a  happy  settlement  will  you  see,  only 
waiting  for  ;t  rniUvay  and  a  market  to  develop  it  into  a  thriving  town.  .Awav  bevond 
them  ag,un,  to  the  n(,rth.  up  the  two  hundred  and  twenty  n,ilcs  of  rapid  and'  fall  over 
which  th,.  River  Mintassini  drains  the  water  of  Lake  Mistassini.  which  is  nearly  as 
large  as  Lake  Ontario;  up  the  Ashuapnuuuhouan  to  the  north-west,  and  the  broad 
I>erd,oncatothtM1orth.east;  southwards  down  th.  Metabetchouan.  and  alon-.  the  chain  ol 
lakes  that  stret.  h  to  near  Quebec;  all  round  this  lovely  Lake  St.  |ohn  are  fertile  valleys 
waumg  to  In,  p.ople.l.  The  vastness  of  the  vast  Dominion  of  Canada  is  gettin.r  tn 
be  a  rather  lln-eudbare  topic  for  Governors-General  and  emigration  agents;  but  "has 
any  one  really  u  conception  of  the  room  there  is  in  it  for  willing  workers,  when  in  on, 


OF   THE   CONTINENT 


165 


as  It;il  on  past 
stern,  solemn, 
id  these  moiiii 
opal  glory  thai 
lely  Nature  in 
■  the  Poet  Kino 
■,    "  The  moiin- 

houses  around 
ed  impression, 
cottages  whicii 
ng  the  slopes, 
s  named  from 
(ought  straight 
)ter  to  express 
ice,  and  afford 
traces  of  tlic 

the  evidences 
s    left   unfilled 

inland,  Lake 
surrounded  i)v 
■<,  which  form 
here  the  Sag- 
like thousands 
s  in  Lake  St, 
ly-lands  above 
clay. 

:in  drive  on  a 
way  past  the 
y'ou  see,  onh 
\way  bc)oiui 
and   fall  o\er 

is  nearly  a^ 
id    the    broad 

the  chain  ol 
fertile  valleys 

is  getting  t'l 
Its;  but  has 
when  in  one 


province  only,  and  that  a  much   maligned  and   sorely    despi.sed    one.  there    is   a   country 
good   for  so  much  and  so  many  as  thi.'-  almost  unknown   portion  of    Quebec. 

But  our  way  lies  along  the  Saguenay  a  while  longer.  The  narrow  passage  once 
passed,  where  the  steamer  undergoes  the  stern  scrutiny  of  Cap  Est  and  Cap  Quest, 
grim  and  stark  cliffs,  set  only  half  a  mile  apart,  one  begins  to  see  tiny  settlements  here 
and  there  in  the  ravines  between  the  Hanks  of  tlu-  hills,  and  on  the  narrow  strips  of 
meadow  between  their  base  and  the  river.  Trees  are  more  numerous  and  of  a  sturdier 
growth.  Cattle  are  browsing,  and  penph;  driving  along  the  roads.  Boats  are  moving 
about,  and  tugs  are  taking  lumber  to   the   vessels  anchored   in   miil-stream. 

In  the  distance  tiie  tal!  spin-  of  Chicoutimi  church  marks  the  end  of  the  stea.mer's 
voyage,  for  Chicoutimi  is  .veil  named,  if  the  derivation  from  the  Cree.  '•  Ishko-timew," 
"up  to  here  it  is  deep,"  be  correct,  and  I'ere  Lajeune,  in  the  -Relation"  of  i65i,  says 
that  Chicoutimi  is  "  lieu  rcmanjuable  pour  elre  h  terme  <le  la  belle  navigation  et  le  com- 
mencement dcs  portages." 

Chicoutimi  is  set  on  an  hill  and  cannot  be  hid.     It  is  not  a  city  indeed,  but  it  is  an  in- 
corporated town,  the  .seat  of  a  bishopric.      Beautiful  for  situation,  it  is  the  joy  of  the  whole 
little  world  up  here.      For   are    there    not    siilewalks.  and    shops,  and    a  convent,   and  a 
college,   and  a  good  hotel,  the   view  from   the  gallery  of  which   is  something  to  live  for. 
Chicoutimi  was  one   of   the  earliest    Jesuit   mi.^sions    and  a    great  fur-trading  centre, 
becoming  afterwards  one   of   the    principal    posts    of    the    Hudson's    Bay    Company.       In 
1670  a  chapel  was   built,   and   in    1727  another,   of   the   fragrant  and   durable  white  cedar. 
The  latter  was  in   crumlding  e.xistence  in    1S50,   but   had   been   sadly  pulled   to  pieces    by 
relic-hunting  visitors.       The  remains  of    the  little   i)uilding    w<-re    finally    covered    with    a 
mound  of   earth  by  Mr.    Price  in  order  to  save  them  from  destruction,  and  the  site  was 
railed    round.       Manj'    interestmg   relics    from    the    interior   have    been    preserved.      The 
Chicoutimi   River    forms    a    tine    fall    of    forty    feet    high    just    at    the   end    of   the    nmin 
ilreet.     This  river,  in  its  course  of  seventeen   miles  from   Lake   Kenogami,  descends  486 
feet  by  seven  falls  and  a  continuous  series  of    rapids.     The  portage  at  one  of   the  falls 
takes  its  name  of    "Portage  de  I'Enfant "  from  the  story  of   an    Indian    baby,  who    wi.> 
left  in  a   canoe    that,  being   carelessly    fastened,  was    carried    auay    by   the    current    and 
leaped  the  fall  of    fifty  feet  without  upsetting.      .\t  th(>  mouth  of   the  Chicouf' 1  i  is  the 
great  lumbering  establishment  of    Messrs.    Price   Brothers  &   Co.,    the  veritable    kmgs    of 
the  Saguenay,    whose    influence  is   as  far  reaching  as  it  is  beneficently  e.xerci.sed.       The 
founder    of   the    house.    Mr.    David    Price,   Sr..   may    truly    be  said  to  have    -made"    the 
Saguenay  district,   and   his  memory  is    justly   held   in   respect.       The    stories    of    his  wars 
with  the   Hudson's    l?ay    Company,  when    told    by    some    old   French    canoe-man    at    the 
camp-fire,    sound    like    bits    from    ih,;    15„uk    of    Chronicle.s.       Nearly    everyoody    in    this 
region   is,   or  has  been,   a    lumberer,   cano(--man,   or    a  gatherer  of  spruce  gum,   of  which 
quantities  are  .'.Nported   from   Chicoutimi   to    make   varnish   and   for    other    purposes.        It 


il 

ill 


1 66 


/'///:•    /LIS7/:/^\'.l/()S/-   A'// if,/': 


tak 


es    1 1 


ttk 


pcrsiinsidii    to    coax    a    m.iii   to  spifiul    ;i    hiii 


loin 


■/, 


mncr    in  a    canooiiiL''  tri 


u,  or    to 


cs   <;r//\    ,jii.i   foul    la    dr, 


as    tin 


expression,     •  to    drivi^ 


y    o'I'Uy    pamplira-;c    the    lui-rlish    lunibc 


rrr' 


lotrs    down    stream. 


Opposite   Ciiicoutimi    is    the    picti 


.ires(|i 


villaL;»'    (if    St,..    .\, 


i_)liilt, 


aloiii. 


liu 


(i,!^'e    of     whicii    w 


jierched    on    a    hnh 


incis    tlK 


tll.li 


ad 


S     !'i 


/ 


jrokeii 


iand> 


cries 


wh 


encc    \()ii 


tak 


e    a 


asl    look    di 


Romp 


'lies,      !ll( 


Sac 


iienav 


htlore 


you    turn    to   scale   the    tiiirly-Uve    milc^    „f    f, 


to   he   mounted    before   you   see   the   hirlii-i)l 


•Wll    the  lon^,^   beautifid   vista  of    tin 
dls  and    rapids    t'.iat    have 


\\\(\  tl 


ue    of     Ihi',    (1li|^rhty     r 


I  v'cr. 


wliicl 


ii    I- 


leep  and   stront,^  at   its  vfni 


Hut    th' 


:re    IS    no    s|)ace 


here 


;.ej;ninino-  as  it   is  at   its  month. 
i!)    tell    of    th« 


\>^-,\M'h 


iiish   witr.   \\\\\:\\   li 


Saguenay.  of    th(!  lieadioui 

by   forty  strc;anis.   tliree    of    tliem     rivi 


u'onUers  o 


f    ti 


broad 


Ui 


IS     i'ci 


the 


narrow  confine  at   tlie    iiead 


^vatfi-H   nf    Lake    St.    j„l,n,   tlia.t 
ai    die    .SajTuenay    itself,  tear    tlirou 


the    (irano     Uric 


^\^ 


■  I'l '♦• 


it    I 


le    <j'i<i- 


UK  I 


lie    rapids,   where 


th< 


wav(;s    toH 


illock 


antic    whirlpooi- 


th( 


lovely  island-studded  exiJ.Mises,   of    rh 


'llk-rthiJe  foam  hi'di  in  th 


e  air.  o 


-f 


,lat. 


hearted   jieopje,   of    th( 
the  sahnon   tribe,   of    th 


>(*{(lf(ilet)ts    and    their 


rock\- 


pi.rtatre.s,   of    the 


smiple, 


j.jootl- 


e  monster  pik( 


d   d. 


uid   the  bean 


Nor  of    L 


:ike 


St.  J 


^■< 'III  III  slid'   loveliest   and  .s^^amest  of    all 
''    lllc  swarminj,'-  trout,  of  the  beavers 


on 


n    with    its    bill,,    fi 


waves,   and   the  great   ufiite   veil   of    the    (.) 


uiaichoiian     I' 


every  point,   ;«s  i 


t  lea| 


)s   !i:r:"e   hundred   feet   I 


iiiK'«'  of    mountains,   its    rolling- 
I.    visible   for  thirty   miles  from 


rom 


the  threat  cataclysm  that  surpns,.d   the  river  Ijef 
see    them    yourself,   leave    the   '(i  ;;ist  _s4-roove 
your  brown-faced  guides,   live  the   life  and 


^f 


and 


■I    l<'(;k>     bluff,   a    lasting    testimony 
ore  it  could  change  its  bed.      You  must 
i'  stream  and  by  camp-fire,  with 


on   ill 


siiu 


the 


*»«*I1K   L»f    iiiin 


'•  hn  i''"'U  li'cton,  ijui  ini, 


'•  .J 


So   far  the   north    side  of    the     Lower    St,    Lawren.-e    has    furnishe.l    these    sketches 

Not    that    the    other    shore    is    devoid    of    attraction,        |  he    beaten    track    for    ordinary 

travellers  runs    indeed    at    the.   back  of    everything,       Yo„   might  travel    over    the    Inter- 

colo.nal   Railway  year  in  and  year  out  without  gue.sing  what   beautiful   bits  of    scenerv, 

quamt  old  parishes,  and  charming  people  are  to  b.-  found   in^t   l».^„n  i    ,i 

"   '      '  loimo  just    nejonci    the  aggravatmg 

ridge  that  lies  between    the  railwav  and   the  river        'I',.  I„  .      "l 

^a)  UK.   liver,        In  be  sure  one  gets    an  occasional 

ghmpse  of  the  St.    Lawrence- a    fleeting  picture    framed  in    a  window-sash-that  wakes 
an    uneasy    feeling  of    missing    a    good    deal    that    o.i^h,    ;,,    ,„.    ,,,„ ,    ^i,,,,    ^,,^.    ^„„, 
lovely  views  at   the  river  crossings;   and  a  saunter  tl,n..„:^     he  train,  or  a  hurried  wai 
on  a  stafon-platform,   suggests  that    there  is  a  good    d«al  to  study  of    a    life  quite    <lif. 
ferent  from  anything  else   in   America, 

Ju„  .  worJ    for   tl,c  „i,„l,„ills       Out  of    l|„| ,|,    ,„,   ,.„.,  „    ,^„„„j^j.  ^„  j^,,,    „, 


mS 


OF   THH   CONTIXENT 


lO: 


ng  trip,  or    td 
isli    lumbcrirN' 


:)f  tlu'  Upj!,T 
1,  tli;i.l  is  !((] 
tear  ihroii^li 
ic  \vhirl|)ools 
in  the  air,  of 
simple,  good- 
,ramest  of  all 
f  the  heavers 
IS,  its  rollin_i;- 
y  miles  from 
testimony    of 


se    sketches. 

for    ordinary 

r    the    Inter- 

of    sccnerx, 

aggravatin}.; 
n  occasional 

' 

-that  wakes 

% 

e    are    son; 

'A 

\urried  wai 

1 

e  quite    dif 

I 

1 

'  so  full    f)f 

1 

fastens    four    hoards    to     the     four    [xjIcs,     the    sails    are 

complete,  and,    while    his    wheat     is    thrashing,    he    can  sing  like    his    brother,   the    rafts- 
man— 

•'Via  If  Ih'ii  Tfiit,  v'la  U  joli  vent 
Ma  mic  m'appelle." 

No    need    for    a    broad    tail    to    pivot    the    machine    to    windward.       Nature    wants    no 
weather-cocks  here ;    the  barns  are  oriented  as  carefully  as  the  churches,  for  the  breeze 


t 

! 

• 

ti 

1 

il 
ill 

1;  ■■ 

'\\ 


i6S 


Tilt   HASTERNMOsr  RIIH.F. 


ill 


rn 


l)l()ws    citluM-    up    or    down    ihc    river,   cold    and    fosii^y   fmin    the    north-east,    balmy    and 
cloiid-dis|)cllin<j^  from   tlic  soutli-wcst. 

It  is  not  till  l)ic  is  ncarlv  rc^aclicd  tliat  tlic  St.  Lawrence  hursts  full  u])on  tin;  view, 
and  tile  salt  air  Mows  fresh  in  your  face.  Hie  is  a  charminj;  spot.  In  contrast  with 
the  wide  vistas  ol  the  northern  shore,  you  have  here  a  ])icture,  the  whole  of 
which  the  eye  seizes  at  ,i  -lance,  yet  ii  is  on  a  i.^rand  scale.  The  hills,  not  sur- 
passed in  heii^dit  and  aliruplness  hy  those  of  .Murray  iJay  and  Les  Ehoidements,  form  a 
frame-work  rouml  the  (piadran^ular  bay,  whose  waters  find  their  way  in  amonjr  them 
by  nnnierous  coses,  bordered  by  sharp  slopes  ;inil  ruL^ryetl  hillocks.  A  beach  stretches 
away  from  the  steep  incline,  aboxc  which  tin*  viilai^e  lies  alonjr  a  snui^f  plateau.  At 
low  tiile,  beyond  the  beach,  ant  wide  llats,  where  black  and  sea-weed  covered  rocks 
surromul  little  pools.  ■i"hrouL;h  the  llats  nie.mder  the  waters  of  two  rivers,  one  at 
each  ^!^^^\  of  the  bay.  placiilly  restin;^  after  their  impetuous  course  ilown  the  ravines, 
and  iL,dad  to  reach  their  Ki\\i\.  The  narrow  mouth  of  the  bay  is  guarded  by  tall  bluffs, 
between  which  streh  h  two  islands,  formiuL,-^  a  natin-al  breakwater  ayainst  the  swell  that 
the  iiorih-e.ist  wind  dashes  in  vain  against  their  steep  shores.  A  few  miles  out  the 
ueeply-wooded  isl.md  of  Hie  lies  dark  on  the  blue  e.xpanse,  and  away  beyond  is  the 
noi-lhern   coast,   mist\    and   \'ai.^ue  on   the   hori/on. 

LoiiM-  wni.  when  the  .Souri<piois,  as  the  Micmac  iiranch  of  tin.'  threat  Algonquin 
family  were  called.  heKl  the  shores  of  the  .St.  Lawrence  from  daspe  to  Stadacona,  the 
loudamans,  the  forbe.irs  of  the  Iro(piois,  harried  them  incessantly,  as  afterwards  the 
Iroquois  harried  the  llurons  and  the  b'n-ncl,.  A  band  of  Souricpiois  were  camjied 
once  on  the  shore  ,it  HIc.  when  their  scouts  foimd  signs  of  the  enemy's  near  approach. 
Women  an<l  children  were  ni.-in\,  and  warriors  few;  escape  by  land  was  hopeles.s,  and 
there  were  not  enough  cano('s  for  all.  So  they  sought  shelter  in  a  cave  on  one  of 
the  islands;  but  the  l_vn.\-eyed  Ircxpiois  descried  the  faint  tracks  almost  effaced  by  the 
tide,  and.  at  low  w.ater,  wailed  out  to  the  assault,  which,  thrice  repulsed,  was  renewed 
at  each  ebb-tide.  hire  did  what  numbers  could  not  effect.  Those  of  the  Micmacs 
who  were  not  suffocated  in  the  cavern  were  driven  by  the  llames  to  meet  death  and 
scal[)ing  on  the  rocks  outside.  I'ive  warriors,  however,  had  gone  to  bring  help  from 
their  kinsmen,  the  .Malecites,  on  the  head-w.iters  of  th(;  RivcM-  St.  John,  and  they  took 
a  fearful  vengeance.  The  exultant  Iroquois  found  thinr  cache  discovered,  their  canoes 
and  jirovisions  destroyed,  and  a  weary  march  before  them  of  hundreds  of  miles 
through  a  strange;  country,  with  walchfid  and  wily  foes  always  on  their  trail.  Not 
one  of  the  Irocpiois  rcii  hed  home.  .Such  is  a  meagre  outline  of  the  thrilling  storv 
the  old  Mil  mar  hunters  will  tell  you,  with  many  a  contemptuous  sn(!er  at  their  hered- 
itary enemies.  I  )onnac()na  told  it  to  Cartictr  ;  .M,  Tache  has  (nnbodied  it  in  one 
of  his  gr.nphic  '•  Trois  /.cociu/cs."  and  th(;  name  of  the  "//<■/  i//t  .Uirssdcrc"  perpetuates 
the  tradition,    which    b'erland  sa\s  is    conllrmetl    l)\    the    discoverv  of    a   mass    of    human 


balmy    and 

Ml  tlu:  view, 
)ntrast  witli 
:  wliolc  (if 
lis,  iKit  sur- 
:!nts,  form  a 
moiiir  them 
l1i  stretches 
atcaii.  At 
verccl  rocks 
ers,  cue  at 
;lu;  ravines, 
tall  bluffs, 
;  swell  that 
Ics  out  the 
yond  is  the 

Algon([uin 
■dacona,  thi,- 
rwards  tlie 
;rc  camped 
r  a])proacii. 
ipeless,  and 

on  one  of 
.ced  by  tli<' 
as  renewed 
e    Micmacs 

death    and 

help  from 
:  tlioy  took 
U'ir  canoes 
>  of  miles 
trail.  Not 
iliinjr  stor\' 
heir  hercd- 

it  in  one 
perpetuates 

of   iuiman 


OF    THE   COA'TlNJiNT 


169 


THERE    HE   IS! 


ii 


'  il 


B 

^'^m 

ff:-. 

iiH 

1)1 

'■ 

II  m: 

''H 

m 

H 

••y,fi 

ilM 

^^^^T 

mi 


i;o 


7///-    /:.IS//A>Ar)/().sr   RllHIH 


■ 


I;    tT 

I'm 

■-si 


If 

hi 


■  OUTlMi. 

I)nncs,      found      sopt" 
years    a^o    in  a    cave 
on    one     f^^    the     lii 
Nl.inds. 

!nly    a    few     miles 
re  !    Rimouski 


and  Father  Point,  where  the  ocean 
steamers  hind  tlieir  passengers, 
impatient  of  another  half-day's  sea  voyarje  to  Quebec,  am  passed,  and  then  the  train 
turns  sharply  away  from  the  nver  to  wind  throujfh  the  ravines  of  Metis,  to  clamber 
over  the  hills  to  Tortaejue  and  Sayabec,  and  to  descend  the  valley  of  the  crystal 
Matapedia,  followinj,^  the  canoe  route  the  Indians  have  us(!d  for  centuries,  and  which 
many  a  priest  hud  to  tramp  on  snow-shoes  on  his  solitary  winter  journey  to  the  Bait- 
des  Chaleurs  Missions.  They  were  stout  of  heart  and  sturdy  of  limb  those  early 
missionaries.     Just  think  of  i'ere  Albanel,  the    same  who    mounted  the   Saguenay,  walk- 


OF    rilh:   CONTIM'.NT 


'7' 


"IK    ii 


11    tlu 


u-   fr 


Perec    to     (.)l 


tl 


ic   winter    () 


f    l67c 


Yet 


It     IS 


set    d 


own 


as 
th 


a   mere  item   in  his  itinerary,  a  matter  of  jjiisiness  necessity  ;    tiresome,  but  quite  ir 


p    usii: 


course. 


\\ 


o\ve\'  r,   \v 


(•  are  goin^  to   I'erce  by  water.       'liic  bn 


fresh 


ens; 


the 


lon^i 


f,  slow 


swell  h.is  in  it  somewhat  of  tlu;  ocean's  roll  ;  tln'  opposite  shore  bc;^ins  to  fade  away, 
for  at  I'oint  de  Mons  llie  coast  triiids  sharpl)'  to  the  norlh-east,  so  that  at  Moisic 
there  is  seviMity  miles  width  of  wat(;r;  and  the  river  is  beconiinLj  tin:  Gulf  of  St. 
Lawrence.  Skirt injr  the  .outh  shore  we  p.iss  He.  St.  IJarnabc,  where,  towards  the 
il    of    last  century,  a    hermit    lived;     Cap  a  la   Haleine,    reminding    one  of    the  whale- 


en 


fishing  of  the   Ii. 
Mechins,   the  "  <■ 


i'^(|ues,   where   Cartier   turned   homewards  on   his  first  voyage;    Les   llets 
\  il  islands,"  wlK:re  the  giant  demon   lay  in  wait  for  imbaptized   Indians, 


anil  brained  them  with  a  pine-tree  for  a  Jub;  Ca|  ''hat,  a  stupid  vulgarism  of  Cap 
d(!  Chastes,  whi-re  the  I'irst  Ro\,ds  were  wrecked  in  1813.  The  St.  Lawrence  has 
been  the  tomb  of  many  an  brnglish  soldier  and  ^ailor  before  and  sinci-  then.  In 
i6qo,  Sir  William  Phipps  lost  nine  of  his  ships  as  he  returned  from  the  unsuccessful 
attack  on  Quebec.  Over  there,  to  die  northward,  you  can  just  make  out  through 
the  glass  the  rocky  shore  of  lonely  He.  au.\  Quifs,  -where,  on  a  foggy  August  night 
in  171 1,  eight  tr.insports  of  Sir  Ilovenden  Walker's  ill-fated  fleet  were  wrecked  on 
the  reefs,  and,  \.  1  morning  broke,  the  sands  were  strewn  with  the  red-coated 
bodies  of  a  thousami  of  Queen  Anne's  best  soldiers,  and  Quebec  was  again  saved. 
Tradition  has  it  tli  ;  an  Paradis,  an  old  I'rench  sea-dog,  who  had  been  captur- 
ed by  the  English,  would  ^  act  as  pilot,  and  allowed  them  to  run  straight  on 
to  death  ;  also  that  a  Mis  N^outh,  one  of  the  Coiu-t  beauties,  who  had  eloped 
with  Sir  Hovenden  Walker,  was  drowned  in  the  Smyrna  Merchant,  one  of  the  lost 
transports. 

The  cliffs  seem  low,  but  they  are  three  hundred  feet  above  the  beach.  At  Ste. 
Anne  des  Monts  the  hills  tower  to  a  height  of  a  thousand  feet  only  half  a  "dli:  back 
from  the  shore,  and  behind  them  rise  the  Shickshaws  and  the  Notre-Dame  ran-;. 
which  is  the  backbone-  of  the  C^.aspe  Peninsula,  and  the  easternmost  prolongiU  un  of 
the  AUeghanies.  The  snow  lies  dc  j)  on  tin  se  inountains  long  into  the  year,  and  cov- 
ers them  again  when  as  yet  the  leaves  have  hardly  fallen  in  the  valleys  below.  It  is 
a  wild  country  there.  Just  one  road  follows  the  contours  of  that  rocky  coast  all  the 
way  to  Gaspe.  It  leads  through  lonely  ravines  rich  with  foli.ii^e ;  it  crosses  many  a 
beautiful  gorge  and  sparkling  stre.un  ;  it  climbs  the  hills  here  ;  and  there  it  creeps 
round  their  base  on  1  .(\  gravelly  beach  ;  it  passes  through  sombre  woods,  to  come  out 
again  to  full  d;  li-ht  on  the  very  edge  of  tretnendous  precipices,  at  whose  foot  the 
surf  beats  incessantly ;  it  has  old  tashionedterries  across  the  coves ;  it  leads  to  no 
towns,  only  to  little  out-of-the-world  fishing  villages  and  signal  stations;  it  has  no 
cross-roads.      If   you    would   cross    the    mountains,   yon    mu  t    follow  the  salmon  up  the 


'Of:! 


173 


77//!'  EASTERNMOST  RIDGE 


river,  or  tlie  track  of  the  carilx)!!  to  the  mossy  swamps,  where  the  pitcher  plant,  the 
Indian's  cup,  li.i,  its  home,  to  where  tiic  lal<cs  lie  still  and  calm  amid  the  hills,  and  the 
waters  turn  towards  the  Baie  ties  Chaleurs. 

Past  the  Cap  de  la  Madelaine,  where-  the  wail  of  the  "  fhaillaid  de  la  Madelaine" 
crying  for  Christian  scpuitiire,   is  lieard  all   niq:ht   lon.i,r  al.     <•  tiie  iiowlinj,'   of    the   storm 


ON     nil':     U'l'I'KK     SAi.L'KNAV. 


and  the  roar  of  the  Ijreakers ;  past  I-'ox  River  ami  Caj)  des  Rosiers,  wlience  the  French 
outposts  first  saw  Wolfe's  fleet,  and  where,  on  stormy  nights,  the  emigrants  drowned  in 
the  "  Carrick  "  call  in  \ain  for  rescue  from  the  terrible  surf;  and  Cap  (jaspe  is  in  view. 
The  Confederation  Act  has  gi\(Mi  Ca[)(!  Breton  a  statutory  claim  to  he  the  Lands 
End  of  Canada  ;  hut"  Cap  Caspc  has  history,  tradition  and  etymology  in  its  favour.  At 
sight  of  it  the  two  Indians,  whom  Cartier  was  bringing  back  to  their  own  country,  the 
first  Canadians  that  visited  the  Old  World,  cried  with  joy,  Honguedo!  Honguedo !,  and 
this  bold  promontory,  held  firm  by  the  mountains  against  the  ceaseless  assaults  of  the 
sea,  was  long  the  sign  that  "  La  Nouvelle  I'Vance"  was  at  last  in  sight.  M.  Faucher  de 
Saint  Maurice  says  that  in  -loiUaLjnais  tongm-  it  is  called  "  ii uihakip'equc"  whicii  is, 
being  interpreted,  "the  end  of  the  earth."  Its  clifTs,  seven  hundred  feet  sheer,  over- 
sea for  miles   in   one  stern   unbroken  wall 


ing 


grey 


ith    red    and 


OF   THE   COiVT/NENT 


>7,? 


Mack,  polisheil  by  tlu;  incessant  lasliin^^  of  the  spray,  which  tiic  Dpcii  oce-an  ilasiies  far 
ii|)  its  face,  and  tenantcul  l)y  cioiuls  of  sea-birds.  y\l)ov(;  tht'  cape  rises  its  mountain 
JMittress,  towerin};  from  mossj  shipcs  of  (/I'fir/s,  that  cross  each  otiier  in  wild  confusion 
at  the  base  of  .1  mighty  precipic*;,  wiu'rc  crystal  rills  trickle  rlown,  ami  thi;  d.iinty  blur 
ixlls  ciinj;  to  tin;  crevices,  and  the  wild  rose  finds  a  foothold.  L'p  to  1851,  I.c  Foiillon, 
a  strange,  isolated  rock,  stood  solitary  in  the  sea,  a  stone's  throw  from  the  end  of  the 
point;  it  has  ^iven  its  name  to  the  whole  promontory,  and  its  Indian  n^xw^,  Katscpiou, 
"  that  which  is  separate,"  is  the  orij^inal  of  Ciaspe,  appropriatel)  enough,  for  this  is  an 
isolated  rejjion  indeed.  The  Frencii  called  the  rock  "La  Vicille"  from  the  resem- 
l)lance,  Ferland  says,  the  bunch  of  trees  on  its  summit  t^ave  it  to  "  the  head  of  a 
woman  covered  with  a  large  coif,  such  as  our  Canadian  grandmothers  used  to  wear." 
The  English  name,  "  Ship  Head,"  taken  from  its  subsequent  strange  likeness  to  a 
ship  under  full  sail,  is  still  givi.-n  to  the  point.  But  the  waves  have  long  since  swept 
away  all  traces  of    the  rock  itself. 

And  now  Gaspe  Bay  opens  to  view.  It  is  a  lovely  sheet  of  water,  fifteen  miles 
long,  five  or  six  wide  at  its  mouth.  ;\11  along  the  north  side  it  is  closely  bordered  by 
the  mountains,  whose  steep  slopes  end  abruptly  in  cliffs  at  the  waters'  edge.  A  mighty 
upheaval  there  must  have  been  to  tilt  the  whole  country  up  ;it  such  an  angle,  for  the 
perpendicular  precipices  on  the  .St.  Lawrence  site  are  but  the  clean-cut  outer  edge  of 
the  harder  strata  at  the  foundation  of  the  hills.  The  cliffs  are  indented  by  well-like 
coves,  where  strips  of  sand,  and  beaches  richly  coloured  with  pebbles  of  all  hues, 
afford  room  to  land  the  boats  and  dry  the  nets  of  the  numerous  fishing  stations  that 
stud  the  shore.  In  many  places  ladders  lead  down  into  these  coves,  for  the  banks  are 
so  straight  that  you  can  drive  along  their  edge  and  look  down  into  the  boats  lying 
alongside  the  floats.  On  the  edge  of  the  coves  are  the  warehouses,  one  storey  high  on 
the  plateau  above,  three  or  four  where,  supported  on  staging  and  piles,  they  overhang 
the  water.  Roimd  the  warehouses  are  clusters  of  cottages  ;  there  are  fields  and  grain 
growing  in  th(;m,  and  very  [)leasant  are  these  bright  spots  among  the  dark  woods  and 
sombre  hill-tops.  Evitlently  the  ])eo|)le  are  farmers  only  when  the  wind  blows  too 
high  for  tile  boats  to  go  out,  or  when  the  fish  have  not  "  struck  in."  The  crops  are 
not  poor,  for  the  soil,  though  rocky  just  here,  is  good  when  there  is  any  soil  at  all, 
and  there  is  abundance  of  magnificent  farming  land  in  the  rich  valleys  and  fertile 
intervr.is  of  Gaspe  County.  There  are  all  th;^  characteristics  of  a  fishing  village. 
Everything  is  built  to  stand  a  hard  blow.  There  are  nets  everywhere,  hanging  on  the 
fences,  pileil  up  by  the  roadside,  dangling  from  the  gables  at  the  barns;  Boats  are  at 
anchor  in  fleets  off  shore,  hauled  up  in  rows  on  the  beach,  and  lying  in  the  fields  and 
gardens  ;  when  quite  past  service  in  the  water  they  do  duty  on  land  as  hencoops  and 
pig-stys.  There  are  fish-flakes,  made  like  hurdles  and  covered  with  dried  cod  and 
haddock,  which  little  boys  lazily  turn,  so  as  to  give  sun  and    air   full    play.     Barrels   of 


I 


'lll»( 


ill 


7//£  Js\lST/SA\V.I/()S/    RIDGE 

mack.T.-l  ,1,1,1  Ii,.,Tin.!T  and  hn-s  of  salt  are  lica|)c,l 
I'l'  '"   III''  'Mvs  of  thr   shcls.      Anchors  and  spars 
arc  pilcl   ill   ..very  (■r>rnfr.       \'ou    mrct    men    carry- 
ing an    oar,   a    strin-    of    cork   ncl-tloats,   or    a    coil 
of    rope,   or  driving;  a   hay-cart   full    of    nets        'j-hr 
wnmcn   aixl  ^irls   arc  h.isy  on    the   slopes    mending 
n.-.s  torn    l.y    ,lo--li-,h    or    stray  sharks ;     fresh   air, 
sah    spra),  and    frc.pient  turns  at  the  oar,  accoim: 
for  tlieir  l.iivoin  lij^invs  and  rosy  checks,      A  simple. 
honest,    khidly    folk,    these    fisher    people,    and    n:- 
liRious,    loo,    ,is    ihe     nuinher    of    tiny  churches    at- 
tests     A   l),ird  life  theirs,  for  this  is  a  terrible  coast 


kiviEre   du 

I.OUP 


% 


for  gales,  and   tiie  win 
ter  is  Ion;j;,      Some   are 
well-to-do,   but   the    money   ltocm 
mainly    into    the    i>o  kits    of    the 
great  jersey  firms,    who    liave    for 
years    monopolized    the    fisheries.       It 
may    almost    be    said    of    the    Ci.aspd 
fishermen,   as  Cartier  said  of   the  das- 
pesians  of  his  time,    "  Hardly  ,iny  |)oorer  peo- 
ple can   lie  found    in  the  world,  and   1    b.|i,.ve 
that  all   together   th<y    would    not    h.ive    the 
worth  of  fiv(  sous  l)eyond  their  boats  and  nets," 

About    ten    miles    up,    tin-    width    of    the   bay 
decreases    to    three,  and    goes    on    narrowioL'-    for 

four    miles     farther,    wher..     two    long    capes    projr.tjng,     o„c    on     each     side,    make    a 
natural    breakwater    for    a    beautiful    iiarbour    funm:d    by    the    estuaries    of    the    Rivers 


OF  Tirr.  roxTixixr 


'/.I 


rnien    slopu    tliat 


hi^h     a')(nL'    tlic     wliarxcs    and     i-cd-roolcd 


war 
of 


reho 


list's   on    t'jc    Ijcac 


In   lluj  docks  and  out    In   the  stream 


a   (  ui'ious  lolk'ciion 


vessels 


a     in; 


^lOverniiuMi 


t    cruiser    just     returned     li 


Ami 


cost  I 


d-! 


(xld-lookuii. 


foreign    barques    come     t.<r    cart^oes    of    fisli 


tliree-inasters    loaded    with   salt  ;    trim 


schooners 
smartness 


fitti 


ne    ou 


t    f^ 


or   the    C'.ulf 


an 


American     vacht,    rivallinLT    the    nian-oi'-war    in 


of  crew,   and   in   frei)uency  of   firint^r  ;    tiie   reguhir  p:isseneer   -tei'mer  liiat   plie 


on    tlie    I5aie  des  Chaleurs  : 
and,  stransjest    craft    of    all 


shari)-(  Milled 


retl-sailed   lishiiii^  boats  read\-   f 


or  an\'   wx-atlier 


iis/e  scow   used   as 


by    one  man  !     Thtjre   is  an  air  of  leisure  about    everything, 
is    no   idle,    half-forgotten    port    from    whi<h   the  glorv    of    f 


ferr\--b<)at,   and   dexterously   workeil 
Uid   truK',   lhou<'h   (iasne 


lik 


Atlantic    towi 


but 


ormer  (.la\s   lias   ^one   lorever 
little    pki 


e  some  Atlantic  towns,  but  a  prosperous  and  l)tis\-  httle  place,  it  does  seem  to 
the  unconimt^rcial  traveller  as  if  town,  \(.'ssels  and  warehouses  were  there  but  as 
parts  of  a  picture,  thrown  into  the  composition  for  the  sake  of  life,  colour  and 
contrast.  I'or  you  an:  in  the  midst  of  the  wildest  scener}'.  Three  large  ri\crs, 
cleaving    their    way    through    the    highest    hills    of    the    whole    .St.    Lawrence    District. — 


il    not    of    Canada,    east     of    the     Kockv    i\l 


oil n tains, — converue    towarus 


Ih 


lieail     oi 


the  bay.       To    the    north    and   east    are    the    peaks    we    have    seen    from    the    St.    Law- 
rence;    to  the  west,   the  bt.Miitifnl    vale  of    the   St.   John;    to    the    southward,  beyciul    the 


cs?**** 


it 

I' 

;tB!i:i 
lire 


lii 


i 


170 


•f  I) 


(Ull. 


yy//;"   E.ISTERNMOS/'  RJDi,]-: 


astown,   rises  tlu'  Ial;)yn'ntli  of    mountains,   ilirougli  whose    gorges    tli 


loxclicst    ro, 


ul 


\\\    v^anacla    lead 


to 


crcc. 


!■ 


orest    iinhro 


Vvw, 


sa\e    Ml    [) 


atch 


t:s    on 


IJK 


nearer  sloije,    slrctcii 


es  awav 


iliite 


sails  on   the   l)a\',   the   h. 


for  miles   in  every   din.'ction,   except    to   tin;  east,    wiicre   th(^ 
ht-hoiises   on    tile    points,   the  cloud   banks  on   tiic   horizon 


lead    the    e\e    to    ih 


i.\    open    sea. 


It  was  i)rol)al)ly  just  at  the  entrance  to  Gas[)c  Basin  that,  "on  the  third  of  Mav 
(1536),  being  the  solemnity  of  the  Holy  Cross,  Cartier  caused  to  be  planted  with  great 
pomp    a    cross    thirty-live    fei't    high,   upon    which    was    an  escutcheon   with   the   arms   of 


ranee,  and   bearinij-   these;  words   i 


II  1 


.<:.);n;ui  letter.- 


'  ranciscus 


V 


■imus   Dei   Gratia   Frai 


<ex    Ketrnat. 


r 


lis  ctM"enionv   recal 


the 


interesting  account  of    the  veneratior 


.f  t 


le  cross    by  ont'    particular  tribv 


)f    ti 


le    Caspesians,    the    Indians  of    the   Miramichi 


District, 


ijiven    In' 


I' 


Le     C 


erc(iu,    HI 


ills  "  Nouvelle    Relation  de  la   G: 


spesK 


P 


heil  in     i6c)i.   and    containinj. 


hist( 


r>- 


nis    mission 


at  Gaspe  from   th 


e  \-ear    i( 


As  li(!    himself  remarks,   this    singular    custom   might 
had    formerK-     received    a 


rsuade  us  that  these  peopli 


lowledi'^e  of  Christianit 


y. 


ihlch  had  afterwa 


rcis  been 


St  th 


:h  th 


e  neL'lec 


tof 


leir  ancestors. 


b'erland 
I(;ri\'es    the    custom    from 


imitation    of    the    I' 


hut  the  traihlion   ijisen    b\ 


r(Mi('li, 


Le  C 


erc(|u, 


lie      w 


hoh 


[tnd, 
)f     th 


iiKleed 


cir- 


cumstance' 


are 


auamst 


u  c  li 


an 


exjilanation. 


Cart 


irtiers     cross, 


aiu' 


occasional 


meelin'r     with 


Ih 


e    sailors    ol 


lishing 

ly    ha\e    impresseel 

th 

of 


I.- 


could  Hard 


upon 


ese     most     eoiiservatue 


pe,,| 


le  tl 


if     il 


i<?    sacred- 


le      christian 


(.'inhlem,    much    ii  -,s    iiave 


broULiht    about 


an 


absolute    cidttis    ,is    ilial   which    Le    CI 
relat 


eri'(|u    describes 


r 


leir   tradition   nm. 


es,    that,   tlu'ir  aiucstors  beiii 


if    tl 


leir  old   men    were    overcome 


g    sorely  a 
tl 


llicted    with 


a   pestilence,   some  o 


f  tl 


le  wisest 


y   tlie    prosjiec 


t  of    tl 


le  desolation    uid    ruin  of    their 


OF   THE   CONTINENT 


177 


178 


7///;   EASTERNMOST  RIDGE 


I 


iKUioii  and  I'll  inio  a  "s!(.c|i  full  of  bitterness,"  in  which  "a  man  exceedingly  beau- 
tiliil  apiKaml  |i)  tliein  with  a  cross  in  his  hand,  who  bade  them  return  home,  make 
crosses  like  \\U,  jiiid  preseiU  them  to  the  heads  of  families,  assuring  them  that 
they  would  iiiidnMbledly  find  ihenaii  the  remedy  for  all  their  ills."  The  [)eople,  at  a 
general  assembly  (if  |!ie  nation,  receiveil  with  lionour  the  sacred  sign  of  the  cross  thus 
pr(;sentetl  thefl)  fcoili  heaven.  Thereupon  "  the  malady  ceased,  and  all  the  af/licted 
who   res[)ectfu||y  (-(iffictl  tin-  cross  were  miraculously  healed.'" 

After  this,  the  criiMS  became  among  these  people  an  object  of  the  highest  venera- 
tion,—a  symbiil  ;ii)d  talisman  employed  in  every  detail  of  their  lives,  and  buried  with 
them  at  ili'ir  tiejttll.  The  worthy  Rccollet  found  this  singular  reverence  for  the 
cross  surviving  .(ltl»mg  them  in  his  day,  though  somewhat  in  decadence,  and  he 
tonchmgly  narmU's*  the  use  he  made  of  it  to  turn  savage  superstition  into  tdiristian 
belief.  1  he  iliujHfif  he  gives  to  it  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  in  a  singularly  in- 
teresting little  bunk  lo  which  M.  Fancher  de  St.  Nhuiric-  was  the  llrst  among  l""rencli 
Canadian  lilli'rcitfHi'a  to  direct  attention.  .Some  of  the  other  Souri(p'ois  traditions  re- 
lated by  I'err  \ a<  i\\{'X('\\\\  have  a  curious  resemblance  to  Christian  belief  as  to  the 
early  ages  u(  th«'  world.  Could  Donnacona's  white  m(;n  clothed  in  wool,  and  the 
"man   e.xceediligl)'   fifiinitifur'   of    th(;   Porte   Croi.x   legend,    have   been   the    Norsemen? 

The  Hay  of  P^'llntiil  -th(;  old  b' ranch  name — has  been  a  harbour  of  refuge  ever 
since  Cartier,  after  hmifig  an  anchor,  spent  ten  da\s  then  in  |ul\,  1534.  Vessels 
cami!  then-  from  I  i.hkc  e\er\  year  to  fisli  ;  for  Champlain  was  sending  a  canoe  tliere 
to  learn  m-ws  of  ll)c  I)e  Caens,  who  were  on  their  wa\  to  his  relief,  when  he  heard 
that  they  and  T,Mloussa(  liad  been  captured  by  the  Kertks.  M(}r<-  than  one  battle 
has  taken  plaic  in  its  waters.  In  162S,  I  )e  Ro(|uemont  iVnight  th<-  Kertks  till,  for 
want  of  cannoii--bi(IK\  liis  sailors  used  th<-ir  souniling-leads ;  but  the  b'rench  squadron 
had  to  strik''  their  Ikigs,  and  see  the  J(.-suit  Misssion  burnt  by  the  \ictors.  In  17:1, 
Admiral  I  lovi'Kd'il  Walker  again  di'stroyed  the  little  settlement,  ,uid  in  September, 
I75,S,  the  I^ngli^•l)  oiK  e  more  repealed  its  I'.evastat ion,  sevlim;  a  part)  across  the  hills 
to  I'erci',  ulicre  the  li^hing-posts  were  burned  and  the  people  made  prisoners.  (ias- 
pesi(;  was  ii)c)(i'U'«1  ill  the  grants  of  Xo\a  Scotia  to  .Sir  William  Alexander  by  James 
I  and  (  harles  I,  Curiously  enougii,  a  c(Milury  later,  ISeauharnois  proposed  to  re- 
ino\>  the  Acadiilim  from  Nova  .Scotia  thither.  liut  the  history  of  C.aspe  would  make 
a  book,  and  tlt«'r«'  H  oflc  more  spot  lo  \isil  before  the  re-imlering  coast  line  of  the 
St.    Lawreiue   b«'j4iil'»  to  form   the    liaie  des  Chaleurs. 

La  Ko(  he  l'er(:('e,  "the  pierced  '"ock,"  stands  bold  and  lirm  to  the  end,  though 
the  clilfs  of  M(M|(  )'»li,  on  the  main-land,  and  of  lionaventure  Island,  two  miles  out  at 
sea,  eonflrm  the  Indian  tradition,  given  I)\-  Denys,  that  once  there  was  no  break  in 
these  perpendicular  Wivlls  of  rich-hued  conglomerate,  where  the  reds  and  browns  of 
sandstone,  the  bri;;lit  olives  and  greys  of  limestone,  greens   of   agate,   purples  of  jas|)er, 


OF   THE   CONTINENT  ,79 

white  quartz,  and    dcep-orannrc    stain    of    iron  hlend  to^Ljether,  and,  seen  against  brilliant 
blue  sky   and    emerald    sea,  form  a    wondrous    combination  of    colour.       I5ut   the  waves, 
with  unbroken  sweep    from  the  open  ocean,  beat  fiercely    on    this  marvellous    rock,  and 
have  already  battered   down   the  three  grand  arches   Den\s  saw.       Seventy    \-ears   before 
Deny.s,   Champlain    says    there    was    only   one  arch,  which  was  large   enough   for  a  sloop 
under  full  sail  to  pass  through.      At    present    then;    is    but    one;    (opening,   forty    or    lift\- 
feet    high.       Many  remember    the    might)-  crash    with   which    the    immense    arch    at    the 
outer    end    of    the    rock    fell    just    before    dawn    one    mo.-ning    about     forty    years    ago, 
leaving    as    its    monuuK'nt    the    great    monolith    that    formed   its  abutment.      .Slowly  and 
surely  wind   and    sea    are    doing    their    work  ;     they    have    iiegun    another    aperture,    not 
more    than    a   couph;    of    feet    in    diameter,    through    which    the    sunbeams    flash    as    thr 
eclipsing    wave    crests    rise  ;uid   fall.       On  the   north  side   is  a   tiny  beach   where  you  can 
land  at  low  tide  on  a  calm    day.       It    is    like    a    profana'.iou    10    tread    cm    the    [jiles    of 
agate    and    jasper    glistening    with    water,  whose    (-very  roll    tosses    up    millions    of   peb- 
bles for  the   sun   to   turn   into   rarest    jewels.      Myriads   of    fossils  givi'   to   the   face  of    the 
rock,     that    at    a     distance     looks    so     hard     and     weatJujr-worn,     the     ajjpearance     of    an 
arabesque    in    richest    velvet.       In    this    little    cov(>,    shut    in    by    the   cliff    from   sight   of 
everything  but  the   water  and    the    sky,  with    no    sound    but    the    cries    of    the    counthss 
birds  that  tenant  the  di/zy   heig^hts,   and  the  music   of    the    surf    as    its    ihunderous    bass 
dies  away  in   ra|)id   fugues  to   tendercst    treble    of    clattering    pebbles  and  dashing  spray, 
we  might   sit  and    ilream    till    the  great,  green   rollers,   through  which   a  mysterious  light 
gleams  on   weird   shapes  of    trees    and  grottoes,   and    casti(;s    and    palaces,   carried   us  off 
willing  visitors   to   the  enchanted   kind   thi'y  rev(;al. 

Everywhere  else  the  rock  rise's  straight  from  ilecp  water  to  a  hc-iglit  of  three 
himdred  feet.  At  its  western  enil  it  is  worn  to  a  wedge  as  sharp  and  straight  anti 
clear-cut  ,is  the  prow  of  an  immense  iron-cla.l,  which  it  singularly  resenibles  in  outline, 
il  one  can  imagine  an  iron-clad  tlfteen  hundred  {va-x  hmg  and  ihre<'  luuuln'd  wide.  Its 
top  is  covered  with  grass,  but  this  is  barely  visible,  because  of  the  inuuense  Hocks  of 
birds,  winged  armies  ranged  in  .serried  order.  blach  trib.'  inhabits  its  own  territory; 
the  black  cormorants  never  mingle  with  the  white  gulls ;  the  great  gann.'ts  and  the 
graceful  terns  ket^p  their  own  place.-.  If  any  presumptuous  bird  wanders  into  the 
ranks  of  another  tribe,  then-  is  a  tremendous  screaming  and  llapping  of  wings  to  dri\e 
away  the  intruder.  They  come  and  go  incessantly,  .arcling  high  owr  tne  schools 
of  herring,  and  plunging  deep  to  seize  their  \nr\ ;  they  swoop  an)nnd  the  cod-lishi'rs 
at  anchor  far  out  on  the  banks  ;  they  follow  the  boats  in  to  the  be.ich  when-  the  pack- 
ers arc  at  work  ;  they  flit  like  ghosts  about  the  nets  wh<-n  in  the  silvery  moonlight 
the  fishermen  go  in  cjuesi  of  bait;  but  thv\  rdurn  always  to  tii-  rme  spot  allotted  to 
them  among  the  densely  packed  mass  of  white,  that  from  a  distance  looks  like  a  bank  of 
snow.     During  a  storm  their  shrieking  is  almost  unearthly,  and  ran  be  heard  for  miles 


THE  HASTEKNAinsr  lUDGE 


About  the  bejTinniim   of  tliis  centiirv    a  fox   iw  said  t(* 
have  found  his  way  up,  hc'wv^  surprised  on   iht?  hniw\\  in   front 
of    the    villaL,rc    and    cliasi.-d    across    tlic    siialiow   wltifll   at   low 
tide  connects  the    rock    willi    tin'  siiorc.       He  fouiul  a  vulpine 
paradise,  and  made    sad    commotion    amon^    the    h)r(l<i,   whose 
refuge    had    till   then    been    thought  inaccessible,       I  lii*  exploit 
suggested  the    possibility  of   men    going   also,  and    two   fkher- 
men    did    climb    up   at    great    risk.       With    rope.s    Hiid    ladders 
a    regular    path    was  then  established,  and  it 
beca'".e   the  custom  to   rob  the   nests  of  their 
big   rich    eggs,   and   to  kill   the 


^^/. 


OF   THE   CONTINENr 


i8i 


birds  for  the  sake  of  the  down.  The  ascent,  always  perilcus,  was  forbidden  by  law 
after  a  man  had  been  i<ilied,  and  the  birds  rc.yain.HJ  undisputed  possession.  Owin^ 
to  the  fall  of   huge  masses  of    rock,  the  summit  is  now  proijabiy  inaccessible. 

Perce  has  been  a  fishing-station  from  the  earliest  times ;  lish  and  fishing  are  its 
raison  iVetrc  as  a  town.  Tiiere  is  fish  everywhere  on  land  as  well  as  in  the  sea.  It 
is  stored  in  warehouses,  drying  on  tiie  beach,  piled  up  in  thatched  stacks,  and  brought 
in  by  the  boats,  that  come  and  go  twice  a  day,  in  white-winged  fleets,  to  and  from 
the  banks  away  beyond  the  red  cliffs  of  Honaventure  Island,  that  lies  out  yonder  like 
a  huge  wiiale  basking  in  the  sun.  The  very  bacon  and  potatoes  a-e  lishy,  for  the 
same  nutriment  feeds  alike  animals  and  fields.  Hut  there  is  so  much  of  beauty  in 
and  about  Perce,  that  one  can  forgive  an  occasional  reminder  that  there  are  other 
senses  than  that  of  sight. 

"  The  codfishery    throughout    tiic    Gulf."  says    Mr.    Pye,   in     his    Gaspi  Scenery,   "  is 
carried  on  in  open  boats,  two  men   composing    the  crew  of  each.       But  ere  the  cod  can 
be   caught    a    supply    of    suitable    bait    must    be  obtained,— herring     capelain,   mackerel, 
lance,    scpiid,  smelt,  or    clams,  all    of  which    are    available    when    used    in    their   seasot:. 
for    even    cod  an'    epicures.     The    boats  proceed  to    the    fishing-ground    at   sunrise,    and 
return  when    laden,  or  when    their   bait    is    expended.      Having    reached    the    shore,    the 
freight  is  landed  and  brought  to  the  splitting-table.      The    first  operation  is    to    cut  the 
throat,  the  ne.xt    to    take    off   the  head    and    .secure  the    liver.      Then    follows    the    most 
difficult  and  .sci(.-ntific  operation,   namely,   splitting,   which   consists    in   removing  the  back- 
i)one.      Good    splitters    are  always    in  good    request,  and    command  high  wages,      l-rom 
the  splitting-table    the    fish    is    thrown  into  a    box-barrow  and    carried    to  the    stage,— a 
large  building    where  the  process  of    curing  commences.        Ihe    barrow  being    placed    on 
the  .scales,   the   lish   is  then   weighed  and  taken   to  the  Salter,— another  skilled   hand,  who 
makes    a    .square    pile,   carefidly  sprinkling    salt  over    each    layrr  as  he    proceeds.       It  re- 
mains in   bulk    some    three  or    lour   days,  is    then  washed    in   large  vats,   returned  to  the 
box-barrow,     and     carried     out     to     the     Hakes,    where     it     is    carefully    spread    to    dry. 
When   moderately  dry,   it  is    carefully   piled  on    the    pebble    beach    in    small,    round    piles 
shaped   like  corn-stalks.       Here    it    undergoes    a    species    of    fermentation,   the    remaining 
dampness  being  exuded.      This  is  termed  making.       When  sufficiently  made,  the  fish  is 
again  spread   out  on   a   fine  dry  day  for  a  few  hours,   and   finally  stored   in    readiness  for 
shiumeni.       'Iliree  modes  of    engaging    fishermen   are    adopted    by  the    merchants.       The 
most  common   is  by   the  draft  ;  that   is,   the   mm   pays  for    all   he  gets  and  is  paid  a  cer- 
tain price  per  draft   for  the  fish  as  it  comes  from    the  knife,  a..    abo\(!   described.      The 
draft   is  the  double  quintal  of    224   pounds,   with    14    pounds  c'xtra  allowed   for  sand  and 
dirt.      On(.'-and-a-half    quintals  are  supposed    to    yield  one    quintal   when    dr\-.       The    next 
mode  o.f  engagement  is  that  of  half-lines  men.     These  pay  for  their  provisions,  and  get 
half   of    the    fish    they    catch    when   cured    and    ready  for    market.       Men    who    fish    on 


% 


Ui 


1«1 


182 


Zy/Zf  EASTERNMOST  RJDGE 


wages  are  generally  engaged    by  the    master  of  the  boat,  wlu,,   in  that  case,  derives  th,- 
benefit  or  bears  the  loss,  if  any." 

Allusion  has   already  been    made    to    the    fisheries  carried    on    by  the    French    at   a 
very  early  date.      .\n    old  manuscript  in  the   Hibliotheque  Royale  at  Versailles  attributes 
them   to  a  date  even  earlier  than   th.-  discovery    of    the  coast  of    Labrador    by  .Sebastian 
Cabot,    who,    it    is    stated,     found    there    ti,-   name  of    Bacallaos,   winch,    in    the    Basque 
language,  means  Moines,  or  codfish.      In    ,6,8    Do  Poutrincourt  a.lvises  tl,e    forestallin-,. 
of  the.   English   by   French  settlements,  and   tlie  erection   of   two  or  tiiree   forts  along  the 
coast  of    Acadie,   to    gua,-d    the    llsiieries,    which    he    estimates    as    being    then    worUi    to 
France  .,  million   a  >ear    in    go!,!.       The  fisiieries    in    the  Gulf    and    the    River  St.    Law- 
rence are   not   included   in   t'u;  privileges  g,-anted    b)-  tlie  Commissioners  to   Roberval,  de 
Mens    an,!    othe,-s.    but    were   left    f,ee    to  all.   and    were    carried    on    in    small    ventures, 
api>a,-e,uly.       In   the    chai'ter  of    th<.-  Compagnie  des  Ce.its  Associes,    in     ,627,   the    King 
expressly  reserves  the  cod    and   whale    fisheries,   which    he  wishes    to  be    free    to    all    his 
subjects.       In     the    accou.it     which     lunery    de    Caen    gives    of    his     voyage    to    receive 
Quebec  back   from   the    Kertks,   in    ,632,   he  sa>  s,   after  speaking  of  the  whales,   of  which 
he  saw  plenty  :    "  They  come  here;  ,tlso  to    fish   for  cod.       I    have    seen  a    great  number 
of    seals,   of  which   we  killed    several.       White    porpoises    are    found    in    this    great    river 
named  the    Sainct    Laurens,   and    nowhe,-e    else-  ;    the    English    call    th.Mn    whke    whales, 
because    the>     are    so    large     in     co,nparison    with    the     porpoises  ;    th.-y  go     up    as     far 
as  Quebec." 

It  was    not   long    before    permanent   lishin.u     posts  were    seriously  thought  of.       Tiie 
Commission   of  Sieur   \irnl,,s    l.n.^s,  in    ,053,   ,.,-ants  him   the  right   to   form  a  stationary 
company  to    i,sh    for    "cod,    salmon,    .nackenl,    herrings,    sardines,    sea-cows,    .seals,    and 
olIuT    fish,  '    on    the    con.litions  that    the    habitans  should    be    allowed   to    take    as    many 
sha,-es  as  they  please.l,  and  ihai  the  persons  whom  the  king  wished  and  intended  to  lit 
"nl   with   vessels    might  carrj-  on    " p,s,hc    vcrte  ct   shlu-;'    that  is  to  say,  might    salt  or 
drx-  thHr    fish   as  they  pleased,    '-tout   ainsy   ,ju  i\  Cordinaircr       In    ,666   Talon   writes  to 
the  iMinist.r  that    he    has  commenced  the  cod-fishery  in  the  river,  and  finds  that  it  can 
be    carrie.l    on     abundantl\-    and    with     benefit.       In    1669   the    people    of    Canada   were 
accord<,cl  the  right  to  sell  fish  in  France,  on  payment  of  the  entry  dues  only-four  sous 
per    cent,   of    cod    caught    by  lines,   and    twenty    pounds    per  cent,    for    spoiled    fish.       It 
may  be  noticed    here  that    coal    from    Canada -"  charbon  de    terre"   the   I'rench  called 
it.  in   curious  contrast  t.^  the    ■•  sta-coal"  of    contemporaneous   English-was  admitted  to 
France,  by  the  same    arrit,  on   payment  of    si.x  sous  a  barrel.       In    ,671    Talon  reports 
that   "the    stationary  fisheries,   being    regarded  as    an    assured    benefit,   '.he    Sieur    Denis 
and  the  Sieur    Bissot.   habitans  of  Quebec,  have  applied   to  me  for  grants  for   fishing  for 
cod  and  seals  and  for  oils;    I  have    granted  them."       In  the    same    year    Sieur  Patoulet 
received    instructions    to    study,    "with    care    and    application,"    the    management    of    the 


OF   THE   CONTINENT 


18.; 


tishinjr  stations  that  lia-l  <iono  so  niudi   for  the    English    colony  at    Boston,  in    onl.-r  t„ 
tatce  the  lK;st  measures  possible    for  those  aboui    '  )    he   estabhshed    around    Perc.'s       In 
1676  a  memorandum  on  Canachi  reminds    tiic;    i<in,-  not  to    ne.L,dect    to    secure    by  every 
m(!ans  the  control   u{  the   fisheries  ami   the   market  of    all   the  ,<,rreen   and   dried   (idi   uHfid 
in  the  -greater  part  of  Europe,  and  an  estimate  is  jriven  that  his  subjects    from   Miscay, 
c;uy(■nn(^    lirittany,  and    Normandy  alone  loaded    seven  or    ei-ht    hundred  vessels  every 
year  with  from  ten  to  thirty  thousand  poirnds  of  tish  each.     The    Intendant  De  M<'iik% 
in  1682,  speaking  of  what  the  fisheries  had  done  for  Boston,  calls  them  a  Peru  if  tlwy  .-an 
only  be  confined   to   I'renrli  subjects.      The  subsequent  neglect  of  the  colony  lost    I'rancr; 
what  might  have  been  the  complete  control  of   this  great  source  of  wealth.      After   tlife 
Cession   of  Canada  to   England  the  m.-rchants  of    Quebec  uncKM-valu.^d   th<=  fisheries,  and 
did  not  take   them   up.      But   the  old  adventurous  spirit  of  St.    Malo  and    Rouen   showod 
itself  in  the    Jerseymen,  whose    establishments   are    now  found    all    along    th.;    Bale    den 
Chaleurs  and  the  Gulf.      In    1766  Charles    Robin  came,  an.i    threw  enough  energy    into 
the  work  to    leave    his    nam.i    a    lasting  memory  all  along    the    coast.      The    I.e    llr,nli|. 
liers,  Janvrin,    I'ruing,    L..    Brun   and  others  followed.       At   Paspebiac.  Perce    an.l    (iran<le 
RivicTe.  establishments  were  formed.      The  War  of    1812  stayed   their  progress  sonx-wJial, 
l)Ut  after    that    settlements  were  m.ule  with    renewed  vigour,  and  the  great  fishing  liriHH 
that  still  exist  estalijinhud   their  powcT     Irish  and   Scotch   immigrants  spread  from  (ia^ipc 
to    New    Richmond,   the    French    Canadians  of    the     Lower    St     Lawrence    moved    down 
from    one    outport    to    another,    until    a    continuous    chain  of     lishing    stations    streldutd 
along    the    shore.       At   Anticosti,    at    the    North   Shore,    and    down    the    Labrador,    little 
I)orls  were  founded  wherever  a  river  formed  a  harbour  or  a  good  beach   for  drying  fish 
was  found.      The  Jerseymen   were  everywhere  guiding  and  superintending. 

The  management  of  one  of  thes<-  great  firms  is  like  the  conduct  of  a  small  army. 
Everything  is  done  by  ride,  to  which  as  implicit  obedience  is  yielded  as  to  the  l.iw^  .»f 
the  land.  The  clerks,  in  most  of  the  houses,  are  Jerseymen,  in  some  no  others  are 
taken,  and  they  are  brought  out  when  young  boys  to  serv,.  a  regular  apiM-enliceship, 
with  strict  requirements  as  to  periodical  changes  of  station  and  duties.  In  sonit!  r,f 
the  houses  they  are  not  allowed  to  marry  at  all,  or,  if  married,  they  ;ire  not 
allowed  to  have  their  wives  with  them,  so  that  nothing  may  interfere  with  iheir 
attention  to  business,  or  induce  them  to  leave  the  service  in  the  nope  of  bell.nng 
themselves  at  their  masters'  expen.se.  At  least  that  was  the  somewhat  illogical 
reason  given  by  one  of  them,  who  a,ssiu-ed  the  writer  that  he  could  only  see  hi^ 
wife  once  every  three  years,  when  the  customary  long  leave  was  given  for  the  trip 
to  Jersey.  They  live  together  in  one  house,  <piite  in  the  styK  of  the  gooil  old  <lays 
of  the  English  merchant.  liach  of  these  establishments  is  oi--  -  te  in  itself.  ICvury- 
thing  is  done  on  the  premises,  and  everything  from  an  anch  to  a  needle,  as  the 
sailors    say,    can    be    had    in     the    shop,    which     forms    part    of    it.       The    neat    whit« 


it 


t84 


TlUi  JlASTHRNMOSr  h'/Di.l- 


pi 


are 


buildinys,    witli  n.,1    ,lo„r-uaNs  aiul    roofs,    trim    ^M-avol  walks   and    liule   ^rardens, 
conspicuous  fcatur.t  at  evt-ry  port  alon-  tlu;  shor<;,  as  tlw.y  an;  \u:r,:  at   I'ercc-. 

l-rom    Mount    Str,     y\nn(.    lu-hind    tlu..    toun    th-nt    is   a  glorious    viow.       The    c-y,. 
ranjrcs  fn„n  tlu-  tali   p.^ak  of  Tracadiegctche,  just   visible  far  up  tl,e   Baie  des  Ciuleurs 


COD-l  IsUI.NG. 

over  hill  and  valley  all  forest-clad,  from  point  to  point  alon^  the  rock-bound  coast- 
line  of  the  bay,  to  Cap  d'[-:spoir,  where  the  phantom  ship  is  seen  in  nights  of  autumn 
gale  repeating  the  drama  of  -X,ru/nrnr  dc  rAuj^laisr  wii-n  an  l^nglish  frigate-one 
of  Hovenden  Walker's  it  is  supposed-was  lu,rled  by  the  hurricane  high  on  "the  crest 
of  that  frowning  cape,  which  has  vry  little  of  good  hope  to  sailors, 'and  seems  well 
turned  into  Cape  Despair  upon  the  maps  ;  then  round  Cape  Cove,  along  the  winding 
hilly  road  that  skirts  the  shore.  Then  you  look  down  inio  ,he  amphitheatre  that 
surrounds  Perce,  on  Mont  Joli,  with  its  wooden  cross  at  the  brink  of  the  clilT,  and  on 
the  rock  :  then  far  away  ov.r  P.onaventure  Islan.l,  across  the  Culf  to  Miscou.  home 
of  the  "terrible  monster  whom  the  savages  call  Cougou,"  whos.  waist  a  sliip's  masts 
would  hardly  reach;  who  snatch.nl  up  p.assers-by  and  p,„  ,|„.,n  in  his  s;,rk  to  W  ,1,- 
voured  at  leisure,  whose  "fearful  whistling"  had  b..,.,  hrard  by  Sieur  Prev.'rt  de 
Saint-Mah,    and    reported   to  Chan,piain.   who    repeat.,  .the   story   with    the   na.vc:   remark. 


OF   THE   CONTINHNT 


'85 


"Voyla  ce  que  fai  appris  d,  a-  aoncou."  Then  alonjr  tl>c  line  „f  clilTs  tlu.l  r.'.Kl,  in 
asccndinjr  steps  from  Mont  Joli  t.,  tlie  -'Corner  ..f  tiic;  Hradi,"  where  th(r  .nili.-uhite 
surf  breaks  on  the  sands  in  the  lovely  Lay,  nanu;d  i)y  the:  IJretons,  from  unpictiir- 
esque  codfish,  '^Baie  dcs  Molucsr  and  now  Malbaie ;  aion-  ilu-  miles  of  sand-spit  thai 
hedges  in  the  baraclioh  or  la-oon  of  the  Malbaie  River,  to  th<.  ciuircli  and  setllemenl 
beyond.  Down  into  jror|,ri,-s  that  converge  beneath  great  walls  of  brilliant  coloured 
rock;  up  again  to  gaz(;  over  innumerable  hills  and  dense  woods  to  where  the  moun- 
tains rise  behind  (i.ispe  ;  far  away  over  the  shining  beacli  and  white  |-.ouses  of 
Point    St.    I'eter    to    Ciaspe   liay    glistening    in    the    sun  ;    beyond    th.  in.  over    the 

dark  line  of  the  Forillon.  to  where  the  loom  of  Anticosti  can  jusi  .  seen  ;  out  to 
the  open  gulf,  where  the  sun  lights  up  the  cloud-piles  with  reflections  of  its  setting 
splendour,  and  the  lightning  (lashes  hew  rifts  through  the  fog-banks  fast  rolling  in, 
and  the  white  sails  fly  before  the  coming  storm. 


'  k' 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


V 


// 


// 


(/. 


1.0 


ii 
1.25 


^la 


112.5 


If  i^    ill  2.2 


US 


lis    M 


IIIW 
JA  11 1.6 


^V''^ 


.L. 


1  iiuiugia[jiiii 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


'^^\^  ^Zu  '^^\ 


s 


1^  ^      A<^       ^\ 


<^.^1^ 


"^^ 


t/j 


186 


THE  EASTERNMOST  RIDGE 


■pw"-^^ 

I 

. ,  s 

%:■     (■•' 

% 

<y 

'^ 

^■■ 

#>--'^-, 

f 

\ 

M. 

t  J^ 

m  ^ 

.* 

*' 

/ 

,ft ,.. 

■  .:-k 

1     ' 

' 

1  d 

h'  ■' 

., 

z 

b^^ 

OF   THE   CONT/N/LVT 


187 


ill! 


LUMBERING. 

1^0  phase  of  life  in  Canada  is  more  characteristically  picturesque  than  that  of  the 
himberman,  identified  as  it  is  with  all  that  is  most  peculiar  to  Canadian  scenery, 
climate  and  conditions  of  living.  Woodcraft,  indeed,  has  the  charm  of  havin.r  horn 
associated  with  the  youth  of  every  race  and  civilization.  The  Psalmist  compares  the 
dispersion  of   scattered  Israel  to  that  of   chips  that  lly  "when  one    cutteth    and   heweth 


iS8 


J  HE  EASTERNMOST  RIDGE 


r 


woo,]    upon    the   c-arlli  ;  ■'    and   Xiryil,   describing    tiiL'    sudden    ovcrthi-ow    of    one    of    th. 
lowers  of  Tniy,   lias  a  lieauliful  simile  from   the  cuttino-  down   of  a  forest   tree. 

Hut  special  and  most  interesting  features  distin.iiuish  the  liunberman's  craft  in 
Canada;  ami  these  call  for  some  detaileil  notice  in  a  Work  like  the  present.  A 
practically  boundless  wealth  of  woodland  stretches  from  our  frontier  to  the  I'ole,  and 
almost  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  I'acilic  seaboard.  The  reyions  of  an  all  but  Arctu 
winter  are  made  endurable,  if  not  a  source^  of  actual  pleasure,  because  the  youth  of  our 
country  are  enabled  to  en-a;^e  in  an  industry  manly,  healthful  and  remimerative.  'Ihe 
accompanying  features  of  that  industry-the  sleigh,  the  snow-shoe,  the  rilfe-the  fish 
drawn  in  profusion  from  beneath  the  thick-ribbed  ice-the  trapped  bear,  the  huge  caribou 
shot  down  near  the  settler's  door-all  have  attractions  for  the  artist,  the  sportsman, 
every  one  with  an  adventure-loving  spirit.  A  life  like  this  gives  our  youth  the  e.xcite- 
ment.  the  manly  self-reliance,  the  spirit  of  mutual  good-fellowship,  which  are  the  best 
lessons  of  a  military  life,  without  its  risks  or  evil  passions. 

Not   less  picturesque  is  the   "shanty"  itself-that  peaceful   Commune  of    the  lumber- 
man's  hfe,  with  its  routine  of  duty,   healthful   food  and    sleep,  varied    by    the   chanson  d, 
bois    or    talc   of    woodcraft    adventure,    told    amid    the    fantastic    shadows    and    flickerinj. 
blaze  of  the  shanty  fire.     Or  when  the  first  birds  of  spring  have    broken    the   charm    of 
silence    in    the    winter    woo.ls,   the    hardy  exploring    party    penetrating  in   their  birch-bark 
canoes  by  devious  streams,   to  climb    the    tallest    tree    and    determine,    with    a    skill    that 
seems    preterhum.m,    the    nature    and    value    of    the    forest-growth    far   and    wide    around 
them;  or  the  perilous  rivc.-rapids.  where  the  h.-aped   logs  in  a  "jam"  need    the  precision 
of  an  expert    to  disengage   the  tangled    pile,    and  offn   the  gracefid   footing   of    a  bah 
dancer  to  stand  on   the   rapidly-revolving  surface  of  the   log   as  it   lloats  down   the  swollen 
stream  ;  or  the  navies  of  huge  rafts   towed   or  lloating  seawards  on  wide  lake  or  expanse 
of  river;  all   have   a    distinctive  artistic   interest.      Unlike  the  national  industries  of   many 
other  lands,  the\-  blend   with,  instead  of  destroying,  what  is  picturescpie  i:-,    Nature.     But 
they  have  a  deeper  interest  for  the  student  of  our  national    life.       For    the   "Choice    of 
Hercules"   is  presented  to    nations    in  ^th.nr    youth,  as    well    as    to    individual   men;    and 
sonu^  have  chosen    pursuits    that    enervate    instead    of    strengthening,   or    industries    that 
separate    into    two    camps    of    mutual    hatred    the    lortls    of    capital    from   its  serfs.       To 
Canada's  lot   has  fall<:n,   as  her    two  staple   industries,    |,ursuits    which    most  of    all    others 
tend   to  form   in   her  young  men   a  simple,   manly,   honest   nature  .    agriculture   in  the  f",rst 
place,   lumlK-ring    in    the    next.       The    physical    benefits  of    lumbering    can    l,e    estimated 
best  b)-  a  glanc...  at   lh<>  stalwart   yet   graceful   figures    of    our    river-drivers   in  the  streets 
of  Ottawa,    sash  and    top-boots  gay  with  scarlet,   and    sun-browned    faces  set    off   by  the 
co<|u..ttish  whif  'kerchief:      jlu'r..    i.    a  moral    benefit,  too,  in  the  total  abstinence  from 
intoxK-.uing  ILpiors   for  long  perio.ls,  which   is  nn.^  of  the  conditions  of  shanty  life.      Nor 
is  religion   forgotten       Xowher<:  are  the    occasional  visits  of  a   clergyman  more  welcome 


OF   TIJH   CONTINENT 


189 


I 


m 


!IMI  !;kl.\(,     UN     nil-;     Ul'I'LR    UITAWA. 


I  go 


THE  EASTERNMOST  RIDGE 


P 

w 


i 


EXI'LORINO     FOK     NEW     LIMITS. 


The  Roman   Catholic  shantymcn   in  particular  set  an  example  worthy  to  be  followe.l.  in 
their  regard  for  ministers   and  reverent  participation  in   Divine  service. 

The  lumber  trade  has  an  orjranic  place  in  the  development  of  Canada's  resources, 
in  the  growth  of  towns  and  cities,  in  the  general  increase  of  wealth,  and  in  the  evolu- 
tion of  literature  and  art  which,  as   Mr.  Buckle  has  pointed  out,  always  occurs  at  periods 


OF   THE   CONTINENT  ,_, 

of  commercial  prosperity.  In  the  epoch  of  Canadian  history,  h.twe.-n  the  French 
n<,nnc  and  the  Union  of  ,840.  the  increase  of  our  population  was  slow.  During  that 
long  period  the  lumber,  too  often  cut  and  i.urned  to  clear  the  land,  was  .t  best 
consumed  for  the  most  part  by  the  hon,e  u.arket.  True,  mention  is  n.ade  of  ship- 
mentof  Canadian  fmber  to  I.:n<dand  as  early  as  ,8oS.  1„  ,«„  .N'ew  Brunswick  began 
to  export  the  products  of  her  pine  woods.  lU.t  it  is  between  ,840  and  ,858  that"  we 
hnd  the  umber  exports  fron,  Canada  grown  to  vast  proportions.  Everywhere  nortl. 
ward  and  westward  from  the  frontier,  the  hunber  mill,  the  hunber  dep6t,  and  handets 
connected  w.th    them   pierced    the    unbroken    forest,  and    led    the    steady  advance  of  civ- 

ilization.       Lumber    operations    were    fvfrii.,1-,,..-,.    fi,  i  ■      r    • 

1  «cic.  ever) where    the    nuclei    of    miprovement.      Villages 

arose,  and   became    towns    and    rifips    wNil,.    *i,  .•       1  . 

ana    cities,   while    the    contmual   ncession   of  the  trade    north- 
ward   developed  in  its  wake  the  growing  resources  of  the  country 

The  Dominion  Government  retains  control  of  the  public'  domain  in  the  North- 
west lerntones  including  Manitoba;  but  in  all  other  Provinces  the  land  is  held  by 
the  several  local  Governments  who  ewn  and  dispose  of  the  uncleared  and  unsold  tracts 
w  .ch  form  the  great  lumber  areas.  ,n  these  what  are  called  -.timber  limits"  or 
berths  are  opened  to  lumbermen  by  yearly  licenses,  or  leases  for  a  longer  period, 
eory  these  limits  are  ten  miles  .square,  but  owing  to  the  peculiar  conformation 
of  the  ground  in  some  places,  they  range  from  ten  to  a  hundred  square  miles 
Besides  the  payment  for  his  annual  license,  a  fixed  duty,  varying  in  amount  in  the 
different   .^rov.nces,   is   paid  by  the  lumberman  on  all    lo-^s   cut 

A    berth     secured,    the     next    step     is    to    send    an  Exploring    party    to  ■•  prospect." 
that    IS.  to    ascertain    the    value   and    variety    of   the    timber,    and    also    to    hnd    suitable 
.es    for   camps  for  the    next    season's    operations.      The  exploring  is   generally  done  in 
the  spring  or  fall,    as    in    summer   the    thick  growth    of    leaves    makes    it    hard    to    take 
extensive    observations.      An    exploring     party    usually    consists    of    fiv.    or    six       They 
carry  with    them    food,  blankets    and    cooking    ute„sils_a    leather   strap   suppordn.    th 
^.Mnnaua  at  the  back-the  band,  or  ■' tump-line,"  passed  across  the  Lst  L  ford.ead 
In  traversing  the  forest  it  is  difficult  to  get  at   a  ••point  of  vantage"  whence  to  gain  a 
w.  e-extended    view.       Whenever    practicable,  therefore,  one    of    the    party  will    cHmb   a 
tall  pine,  generally  on  a  hill-top.      From   thence,   looking    forth    among    the  still    leaHess 
rees    such    is    the    effect    of    long    experience    that   an    old    observer    of    forest    life    will 
be   able    to    tell    from    the   general    aspect    of    the    cou  .try,   what    the   trees   are.  and    of 
what  value,  over   an    extensive  area.     Thi.  is  comparatively  easy  in  the  case  of    pine  if 
.t  grows  mixed  with  hard  wood.     It  is  not  so  easy  where  pine  and  spruce  grow  together. 
1  he    explorers    also    ascertain    the    general    topography   of    the    limits-particularly.  how 

road  thence  to  the  scene  of  operation..    They  also  mark  or  -bla.e"  the  trees  with  thei. 


193 


THE  EASTERNMOST  RIDGE 


\\ 


1 1.::' 


axes  at  various  points  for  the  jruidance  of  the  wori<men.  An  experienced  explorer, 
capable  of  determining  the  worth  of  the  limits,  and  of  mapping  out  tiie  plan  of  tiic 
approaching  season's  cami)aign,  is  well  worth  the  best  wages.  The  explorers  arc 
equipped  as  lightly  as  possible.  Tiu-y  are  armed  with  rilles,  and  enjoy  several  weeks 
of    rough    pic-nic    life  on  "the  cruise." 

During  the  fall  months  the  lumbermen  are  sent  into  the  woods  with  horses, 
sleigh.s,  lumber-boats,  and  everything  necessary  for  the  season's  operations.  All  is 
bustle  on  tiie  lines  of  railway  and  on  tlu^  roads  leading  to  the  lumber  district.  Swart 
and  sunburnt  gangs  of  young  brcnchmcu,  not  a  few  of  them  with  a  slight  tinge  of 
Indian  blood,  derived  from  tlays  wIkmi  a  grandfather  or  great-grandfather  married  an 
Algonquin  or  Huron  bride,  congregate  at  every  well-known  rendezvous.  The  noisy 
fun  and  universal  chaffing  would  exorcise  the  melancholy  of  a  Grimaldi.  These  line 
fellows  have  the  strength  and  graceful  bearing  of  the  Indian,  and  the  garrulous  good- 
humour  of  the  I-'renchman ;  their  rough  dress  is  appropriate  and  quaint,  and  is  gen- 
erally lit  up  coquettishly  with  some  bit  of  bright  colour  in  necktie,  vest  or  scarf. 
In  the  English-speaking  settlements  within  reach  of  the  lumber  limits,  equally  gay 
IS  the  exodus.  Most  of  the  young  farmers  in  these  regions  take  their  teams  to  the 
shanties.  Summer  is  the  working  time  for  farmers  in  Canada,  and  they  are  glad  to 
earn  money  in  winter  with  teams  that  would  otherwise  be  idle.  They  go  forth, 
gaily  shouting  to  one  another,  though  none  will  see  the  face  of  wife,  child,  or 
sweetheart,  till  the  spring  brings  them  home  rejoicing,  with  their  earnings  to  add  to 
the    family  purse. 

Each  gang  is  under  the  direction  of  a  foreman,  who  follows  the  plan  laid  out  by 
the  explorers.  The  first  duty  is  to  build  a  .shanty  for  the  men.  and  stables  for  the 
horses.  Logs  are  cut,  notched  at  the  ends  and  dove-tailed  together,  so  as  to  form  a 
quadrangular  enclosure.  On  the  top  of  this,  from  end  to  end,  two  large  timbers  are 
laid,  each  several  feet  from  the  centre.  On  these  and  on  the  walls  the  roof  rests.  It 
has  a  slight  pitch,  and  is  formed  of  halves  of  trees  hollowed  out,  and  reaching  from  the 
roof-top  downwards  on  each  side,  .so  as  to  project  a  little  beyond  the  walks.  These 
"  scoops,"  as  they  are  called,  are  placed  concave  and  convex  alternately,  so  as  to  over- 
lap each  other.  Fitted  logs  are  then  placed  between  the  gable  walls  and  the  apex  of 
the  roof;  all  chinks  and  openings  are  filled  up  with  moss  or  hay,  and  the  rude 
building  is  made  (piite  warm  and  weather-tight.  In  the  end  wall  is  a  large  doorway 
with  a  door  of  roughly-hewn  lumber;  the  floor  consists  of  logs  hewn  flat;  and 
the  huge  girders  of  the  roof  art:  each  supported  midway  by  tv/o  large  posts,  some 
four  or  five  yards  apart.  The  space  between  these  four  posts,  in  the  genuine  old- 
fashioned  shanty,  is  occupiitd  by  the  "caboose,"  or  fireplace,  substantially  built  up 
with  stones  and  earth.  Within  the  shanty  there  is  no  chimney,  but  an  opening  in 
the   roof    has   a    wooden    frame-work    round    it    which    does  duty  for  chimney ;    so   wide 


OF   THE  CONTINENT 


•93 


laid  out  by 
ibles  for  the 
as  to  form  a 
e  timbers  are 
3of  rests.  It 
ling  from  the 
vails.      These 

0  as  to  over- 
tlie  apex  of 

nd  the  rucif 
rge  doorway 
'ti  flat;  and 
posts,  some 
genuine  okl- 
illy    built    up 

1  opening    in 
:y ;    so   wide 


in. 


Sketches  -ora  life,  by  Frank  H.  Schell.  i|/H  T^^^  Q.'^^'S^ . 

ill. 

|,i  i,.„. ;  i,i'ft:i;:;;i  'J  I'Jfc^l  |l}iip(|l!|p^|}|| 

MEN    OF     TllK     HUSH. 


Ecgpigjipjaf^ 


194 


////:'   /iASTliRNMOST  lifDGH 


li 


i 


is  tlic  oiH-ninj^-  that   the    inmaU's,  as 
tlu'v    li('     in    their    l)iinks    at    ninln, 
can  look   up  at   tlie  sk\    and    stars.      'I'liis  priniitixc   mode  of  construction    secures   perfect 
ventilation,  hut    makes   a    lartje    tire    necessarv    for   comfort. 

At  two  corners  of  the  hearth  are  fi.xed  stroni^'  wooden  cranes — which  the  cook  can 
adjust  to  any  position  for  the  various  pots  anil  tea-hoilers.  On  three  sides  of  the  shanty 
are  rows  of  bunks,  or  platforms,  one  ahove  the  other,  alonj^  the  entire  length.  On 
these  the  lumbermen  sleep,  side  by  side,  in  their  clothing  and  blankets,  their  heads 
to  the  wall  and  their  feet  to  the  central  tire,  which  is  kept  well  supjilied  with  fuel 
all  night.  A  better  class  of  .shanty  is  now  built,  of  ol)long  shape,  with  bunks  along 
one  length  only,  and  a  table  at  the  ojjposite  side  ;  with  such  lu.xuries  as  windows, 
and  even  lamps  at  night ;  with  box-stoves  instead  of  the  central  caboose  ;  and  at  the 
rear  end   a   foreman's   room. 

A  picturesque  sight  on  a  winter's  moonlight  night  are  the  bright  windows  and 
smoking  chimney  of  a  lumber  shanty  ;  over  the  ice-road  of  the  lake  a  belated  team- 
ster drives  his  weary  horse;  beyond,  in  black  shadows,  are  the  pines;  above,  in 
chequered  light  and  shade,  is  the  brow  of  a  mountain  explored  as  yet  only  by  the 
eagle ;  below,  and  full  in  the  moonlight,  is  tlie  shanty,  bright  with  warmth  and  rude 
good-cheer,  the  snow  banked  high  against  its  walls,  the  noise  of  its  song  and  merry 
voices  echoing  from  within  through  the  sombre  wilderness. 

The  primitive  "jobbers'  shanty"  is  of  a  smaller  and  rougher  class.  The  jobbers 
are   a    new    race    who    have    arisen     in    the    forest,   subsequent     to     the   epoch    of    the 


tht 


OF   Tllli   LONTIMiNT 


'95 


old    liiinlicr    Kini,rs    who    rcii^nccl    in    all    th( 
irraiulciir  of  imilispuicd  (nvncrslii|).      Sc'ttlcr^ 


lojlowcd     in     the    waki-     of     Innil 


)cnnsj 


Al 


first,    tliiy   were    content    to    minister    to    tlu' 
nci-essities  of    the    Kin^s 


and    tiieir   subiects 


bji 


lie\     (harijid    th<'ir    own     |)ri 


iliin 


■^ 


tl 


len- 


prices     lor    cstrv- 
anns      \  ielded,     ;ind      no      one 


olijected. 


iut     as     new 


setlli'rs     came     in, 


many   ol    tlie    yomiL;    farmers   were    amhitio 


to   lak( 


<•  :i   liand    in   a    hnsiness   that   comb.m 


tl 


le   attractions 
.f  I 


.f   I 


ol    lores 


t     life    with    the    hope 


ol    larj^c   oains   and    the   excitement  of 


SIJCCU- 


ation. 


aps    tliei 


I    ti 


■e    was    l;(ioiI    timher    on 


tiieir    own     farms,    or     iw( 


1     or     tiiree     woiil 


comhme    and     commence     work    on    stri 


A     JOMHIiKS     SllA.NIV. 


land  lietw'.cn  or  iieyoiul  tiie  Ljreat  areas 
occupietl  l)\  tile  regular  gan<^s.  Sometimes, 
tile)  made  a  contract  with  a  large  operator 
to  deliver  so  man\  logs,  or  to  work  diirin,!^ 
the  season   for  liim.      .\i  otiier  times,   they  cut,  and— with   tiie  help  of  a  >oke  of  oxen— 

rolleil     their    logs    on   "skids,"  and 
ell,   the    horsv.s 


t^^.f^<^-' 


MARKING    LOGS    AT    SKIDWAY. 


til 

ill 


1^6 


THE  EASTERXMOST  RIDGE 


li.uihd    tlidii     to    til.-    ■  foil-way,"    wliciv     the     jolihcr    .,r<)i     his     [.ritr   aoni'.lin,^    i,,    \\xv 
«|ii:ility  nf    tile   |()-s.       Hackuootls  farmers  could    put  up  a  nidr  diaittv    in  a  day  or  two, 
and  they    wvw  content   to  live  roiij,rhly.    knowinjj  that    the  winter's  work   would  prol.alily 
lirin^:  in    more    money  tiian    the   summer's    larniin«,r,      liesides.   every    n\:in   had    his   ritle  ; 
and  an  ordinary   Mriton  or  Canadian   thinks  it   wortii    while    to   endure   all    hardships    for 
the  sak«' of  .i^ettinj,^  a  shot  at  a  Ixiar,  or  l)rin>,rinj,r  ,|„wn  a  red  deer  or  the  stal«'ly  moose. 
Jobbers,    thoiijrh    ;.    new    nice,    are    becoming,'   more    and    more    important    in    hnnberinj,' 
operations.       I'or    the    principle  of   division    of   labour  triumphs   even   in    the  backwoods. 
When    shantv    and    stables    have    been    built,    the     ne.xt     work    is    to    construct    the 
••landinjr,"    or    roll-way,  on    the    shore    of    river    or    lake.        The    roll-way    is    Usually   on 
the    slope    of    a    hill,  and    must    i)e    carefully    cleared    of    ail    obstructions,    so    that     ih.' 
.Leathered    piles   of    lo^rs  may  roll    down    easily    in    the    spring',       I-'rom    the    roll-way.   the 
"head-swamper,"  or    road-maker,   extends    the    road    into    the    forest    as    the    hunbermen 
advance.      The    members    of    a    ^ranjr    averaj,re    over    twenty,    but    sometiilU'H    amount    to 
eighty  or    more.       The    several    shanties    in   the    limits  are  visited   by  th«.'  "  l>usli  suporiti- 
t.Mident,"  who  drives  in  all  weathers   from  one  ^aw^   to    another,  supervising  their  work. 
At  the  heail  of    each  jranj,^  is  the    foreman,  who    calls    the  men    every    morni'ij;,  directs, 
and    records  on  a  rude  slate  or  shin,i,r|e    tiie    work    done.      The    cook,  and    his   assistant 
are  important  functionaries;    so   are    the  carpenter,   who  repairs  the    sleighs;    the  leading 
teamster,  who  directs    the    liauliny  of    the  lotrs ;   and  the  "  sled-tender,"  who  sees  to  liieir 
loading.      There    are.   too,    the  "head-chopper,"  with    his    tiiree    assistants,    who    fell    the 
trees;  the    two    sawyers,   who  cut    them    intA    loj,rs ;    the  "scorers,"    who    remo\f    "slabs' 
and    branches    from    trees    meant    for   s(juare    timber;    and    the    "hewer,"    who   with    !iis 
broail-a.\e  stpiares    thi'    "stick."  as   the    huge  lenjjth    of    timber    is  called,       .\  j-aiij^r  su.h 
as    this,  with    ten  or  twelve   horses,  will    brinjr   to    th-;ir    landinjr    4,000  to  5,001)  saw-lo,irs 
ill  a  season 

When  the  a.xemen  5,^0  into  the  woods,  th(;  head-chopper  chc.oses  the  tree.  The 
a.xes  begin  co  notch  from  opi)osite  directions,  sometimes  two  striking  alternate  blow:, 
at  each  side;  the  nimbly-plied  steel  (piickly  bites  through  the  solid  wood  and  the  chips 
tly  fast  till  the  trunk  is  nearly  severed.  The  tree-top  bends  and  rocks,  .slowly  at  liist, 
and  then,  with  a  crash,  the  patriarch  of  the  forest  falls  prostrate.  ,\e.vl  come  the  saw- 
yers, whose  "cro.ss-cut,"  drawn  swiftly  through  the  trunk,  severs  it  into  logs,  which 
are  then  hauled  to  the  "  skidways "  and  receive  the  "bush-mark."  liach  log  is  gener- 
ally a  fair  load  for  a  sled  ;  but  sometimes  two  or  three  are  bound  on  by  a  strong 
chain.  Long  |)ieces  of  timber  are  drawn  by  a  double  sled— two  short  "bobs,"  or 
pairs  on  runners,  united  by  an  adjustable  bar;  or  a  single  "bob"  is  used,  on  which 
one  end  of  the  stick  is  raised— the  other  '.ragging  in  the  snow.  To  haul  a  very 
heavy  piece  of  timber  eight  or  ten  horses  may  be  required,  and  rollers,  or  "skids," 
are   placed   under  it,   at   inter\als.   to  lessen   the  friction. 


O/-'    IIIH   LOMIXENT 


•97 


CHOPPING    AND    SAWING. 


I9.S 


THE   HASTERNMOST  RWGE 


f 


'(If, 


The  road  to  the  lanclin_i,r  is  often  far  from  level  ;  when  the  descent  is  danot  r- 
ously  steep,  what  is  called  a  '\L;allery  road."  is  ronstriicted  by  drivint,^  piles  into  thr 
hillside  and  e.\cavatin.t:  earth,  which   is  thrown  on   the  artificial   terrace  thus  carried  roinul 


the      face     of      the      mil. 

l)(i\\n     this     the     ini'rr\' 

slcii^ii  -  ili"i\(T       descends 

safely   with    incredible    speed:     ;diove 

him  the  ^icep     l)eneaih,  the  precii)lci' 

liMiii    which     the    wall     of    piles,    loirs 

and    i-arth    secures    him. 

When  the  decent  is  still  steeper 
than  that  "f  the  L;aller\-  i-oad,  "snul)- 
Miil;  "  is  practised.  TJus  consists  in 
secin'injsr    a   rope    at    one    cwX    t>i    the 

sleiirh     and     at     lh<-     other     tn    a     lre<     ;it    the    toji    of    the    hill,    whence    it    is 
slowly    as    tl.e    sieii^h    descends.         The  lo-^s   unloadeil   at  the    lanchni^r  an-  market!   on   tJK 
end  with  the  trade-mark  of  the  owner;    also  with  another  mark  indicatinir  their  value. 


paid    out 


ti: 


I' he    yang   works    from    dawn  till  dark,  with  an  interval  for  d 


inner. 


Th 


IS     IS    o 


ft  en 


Ill 


OF  THE  CONTINENT 


199 


brought  to  tlicin,  ready  cnokcd,  into  tin.'  wooils.  The  men  sit  round  a  fire,  over  which 
l)oils  the  fragrant  lea,  'I'hey  d<'s|)isc  milk  and  siit^^ar,  but  the  tea  must  be  stronir. 
After  dinner  and  a  lew  minutes  sniokinij,  work  is  resumed  ;  vXw.  axe  Hwings,  the 
saw  is  plied,  teams  thrive  their  toads  to  the  landins,r  till  after  sunset,  when  they 
arc  driven  back,  and  I  he  uear>-  horses  stabled  and  fed.  Then,  after  a  hasty 
wash,   the    men    enter    tllc    siiaiUy,   where,    close    to    the    central    lire,    is    a    boiler    nearly 


IN      A      I.IMHKK     SIIANI' 


full  of  stronj,r  tea,  fresh  made,  Hanked  by  a  hu^^e  pan  full  of  fat  pork,  fried  and 
lloatinjr  in  j^ravy.  There  is  also  a  dish,  eijualK'  lari^u',  of  cold  pork.  On  a  corner 
shelf  is  a  mammoth  loaf  of  bread,  than  which  all  Canada  can  provitle  no  better; 
with  a  large  knile,  and  a  pile  of  basins  stacketl  toj^ether.  With  admirable  unanimity 
of  purpose  the  men,  one  after  .mother,  select  a  pint  basin  and  a  luij^re  slict!  of  ihe 
hot,  fresh  bread.  I'assiiii;  to  the  caboose,  they  fill  their  basins  with  hot  tea,  and 
secure  as  much  of  hoi  or  cold  pork  as  they  desire.  Then,  seated  on  benches  beside 
the  fire,  each  wiih  the  help  ol  his  cast:-knife  discusses  the;  pork  and  bread,  washing- 
the  solids  down  with  copious  draughts  of  tea.  The  only  light  is  that  of  the  caboose 
fire,    gleaming    on    swarl    faces   and    stalwart    forms,  and    reflectetl    from   the    tin    vessels 


3UU 


Tim  hASTERNMOST  RIDGE 


in     tlu'ir    hands. 
Cattio   lire   some- 
times  driven    to    the   shanties   that    the 
men  may  have  fresh  beef  for  a  change. 

After  supper  the  lumberers  lounge  about  in  various  directions ;  some  hang  up 
SOCKS,  mittens,  or  moccasins  to  dry  by  caboose  or  stove— some  sharpen  their  chopping- 
axes — others  engage  in  conversation,  or  chaffing,  which,  if  sometimes  broad,  is  always 
good-humoured.  Singing  and  spinning  yarns  of  past  adventure  are  as  popular  as  with 
"ailors,     Often  a  fiddle  is  produced,  and  dancing  of  the   kind  which  Efifie  Dean's  father 

would  not  have  disapproved  is  kept  up  with 
spirit.  But  soon  all  are  ready  for  sleep ; 
rolled  in  blankets,  each  in  his  bunk,  they 
settle  down  for  the  night.  Shantymen  are 
healthy,  and  they  should  be  millionaires  and 
philosophers,  for  they  are  certainly  "  early  to 
bed  and  early  to  rise."  Called  by  the  fore- 
man before  daylight,  after  a  ha.sty  breakfast 
they  hitch  their  horses  to  the  sleigh  in  th(; 
cold  light  of  the  winter's  dawn,  and  begin 
again  the  routine  of  work.  Game  of  all 
kinds— even  the  larger  species  of  deer — is 
often  sighted  by  the  men  when  at  work,  and 
the  rifle  is  kept  in  readiness.  Bears  are 
also  trapped  now  and  then.  The  trap  is  a 
strong  enclosure  of  stakes  firmly  driven  into 
Hi.AK  TRAP.  the  ground  ;  a  heavy  log  is  suspended  above. 


OF      'fE  CONTINENT 


301 


propped    up   by  a    stick,    to   which     -le    bait    is    attached.       The  bear   enters    to   get    at 
the  bait.     Seizing  it,  the  log  fails  upon  his   back  and  he  is  ynable  to   release  himself. 

A  considerable  number  of  the  lumbermen  are  French;  many  with  Indian  blood, 
the  de.scendants  of  the  converts  of  the  Jesuit  Missionaries.  These  are  visited  by  a 
priest  of  the  Church  at  least  once  during  the  season.  He  drives  from  shanty  to 
shanty,  over  narrow  and  almost  impassable  forest  lumber-roads ;  on  arriving,  he  is 
received  with  reverence  by  his  co-religionists  and  with  respect  by  all.  After  supper 
the  small  portable  altar  which  he  brings  is  set  up,  the  crucifix  in  the  centre,  the 
mystical  lights  burning  on  each  side.  Short  vespers  are  said.  Then  the  priest  hears 
confessions,  often  far  into  the  night.  Next  morning  Mass  is  celebrated,  and  after  the 
final  benediction  the  men  resume  work ;  while  the  priest,  having  taken  a  brief  repose, 
departs  on  his  round  of  laborious  duty.  In  the  Ottawa  district,  tiie  lumbermen  who 
are  not  French  are  largely  Scottish  Higliianders.  Long  ago  in  the  Old  World,  the 
two  nationalities  were  allies.  They  fought  then  against  men.  They  fight  now  side  by 
side  against    the  giants  of  the  forest. 

As  the  shanties  are  generally  remote  from  settled  districts,  their  supplies  of  pro- 
visions have  to  be  transported  long  distances  from  the  nearest  point  attainable  by  rail  or 
steamboat.  Such  a  point  becomes,  therefore,  an  important  "dep6t"  of  supplies.  From 
it  there  is  a  constant  dispatch  of  sleighs  loaded  with  provender  for  the  horses. 
and  pork,  molasses,  potatoes,  peas  and  beans  for  the  men.  These  sleighs  travel  in 
trains,  and  as  far  as  possible  on  the  ice.  Lest  the  track  should  be  lost  under  snow- 
drifts, it  is  marked  by  a  line  of  small  evergreens.  When  the  teamsters  turn  aside  to 
the  land,  it  is  generally  to  reach  another  river  or  lake.  Should  an  upset  or  other 
accident  happen,  they  rush  through  the  snow  to  help  their  unlucky  comrade  with  never- 
failing  good  humour.  A  jollier  crowd  does  not  exist.  They  turn  out  into  the  deep 
snow  to  make  way  for  a  train  of  sleighs  coming  from  the  opposite  direction  as  cheerily 
as  they  drive  off  the  river  road  to  one  of  the  numerous  stopping-places  provided 
to  supply  passing  trains  with  food  or  shelter.  These  stopping  places  are  welcome 
breaks  in  the  long  journey  to  the  depdt.  The  average  depdt  is  a  primitive  building, 
much  like  a  shanty,  but  larger,  furnished  wiUi  windows,  and  divided  into  rooms.  It 
is  the  lumberman's  headquarters  for  news  as  well  as  supplies.  Our  illustration  shows 
the  arrival  of  a  train  of  sleighs.  The  horses  drag  their  way,  with  drooping  heads,  to 
the  large  range  of  stables.  It  is  a  wild  snow-storm:  the  dark  clouds  are  drivc-n 
before  fierce  gusts  of  wind  ;  thick  snowdrifts  shiver  around  the  side  of  the  depot, 
but  within  all  is  warmth  and  good-cheer  for  the  weary  teamsters.  Notwithstanding  the 
wild  weather,  one  of  the  depdt  hands  is  driving  a  sleigh,  with  water-barrel,  to  the 
river,  and  the  proprietor  or  superintendent,  wrapped  in  fur  coat  and  cap,  has  come 
o\er  fn  take  stock  of   the  newly-arrived  supplies. 

The   great  expense  of  transporting  for   '.Mig  distances  large  (piantities  of  provisuns 


202 


THE  EASTERN  MUSI    RIDGE 


f 


t(i 


ih( 


limits 


luis 


th 


e\- 


have 


sill)!) 


Iv    of    f; 


irm    procluct 


rfacl\-    at    liaiul 


the    fal 


when,    as 


tht 


u'<-'    not    yet    formed,    transport    is    most    cxpcnsuc. 


IIh'    farm    liands   anil 


snow-road 

lior.scs 


re 


<'m|)Io\((l  <liirin''  tlie   \vint< 


tl 


<M'   111    tile   woods,   so 


that 


men   ma\'  pass  )oars  in 


thch 


se 


rcgio 


witlioiit  \isitinsj   a  citv.      Ulacksmit 


1   and 


carpenter  shops  for  repairinsj;-  sleitrlis,  and  otliei 


tradesmen  s    sliantles. 


ather    round    tliese    c(,'ntres,   and    a    \illai''e   irrows    np. 


As    otner 


th( 


(arms    are    cultivated     near    ii,    or    a    saw-mil 


italdislied   t(j    manufacture  lumber   fc 


local 


ises.    tile    \llla'''(-'    olteil    hecome:     llle    nucleus   ol    a    town    or  Clt\ 


It   often 


too.  that   t 


ie    u()()(|   prices  and    read\   i 


iiarket   of  a 


lumlx'r  depot    induce   the 


hard 


ippens, 
V    settler 


to 


build    l-.i'- 


l<}y-h(nise   and    ck.-ar    his    jiatch    of   ground    in    the 


woods   near    i 


t,  anil   here 


liNcs    Ins    roui.;h     lile — j 


life 


ibb 


■r,    f. 


inner,    a 


nd 


pioneer. 


Thus  our   Canadian  civilization 


IS   aihanceil   m 


the;    wake  of   the   luml 


K'riiu 


trade 


When    the    snnsh 


ine    at    the    em 


roads  hreak   ii 


1     of    March    melts    the    s 
th 


now,    or 


J 


ist    before    the 


p,   the   teamsters  return    in    lont;   trains,   with  empt\-    sleiirhs,   to  their  far-oft 


Soon   after,   about   the  middle  of    .\pril, 

1( 


th( 


arm    rains  have    ruined  the 


■^Uow-Kiail-,,     when    ihi'    ice    has    i^one    down    iroin   the  swollen   s 


th 


streams  and  the  lakes  are 


ciiar  wi 


th 


siirinj:;   water,   a   new   phase  of   the   lumbermen  s 


lb 


life   1) 


',Ui 


tl 


but 


dauijcrous   work    of    L!ett 


wv^  the   l<)ij;s  down   the  roll-wavs  into  the    river,  and    ^aiiili 


le    excitinj.;, 
liny 


or   THE   CONTJXENT 


203 


tluin    \i\  strcani    or 


liiUr    ii)    mills   or    in 


irkct.       I'o   facilitate    t''is,   thu    landiiv's    or 


ill- 


\\ays,   when    not    on    the    river    ice,   have 


liei'ii  constructed  on  a  steep  declivity.  Con- 
se(|iiently  when  the  lower  loi^s  are  loosened  and  thrown  into  the  river,  those  above 
them   follow    from    their  own   wei'du.      Should  an\-  nhstacle   iiave  been   allowed   to  remain 


on 


th 


e      roll-W 


AS    luindreds  of     losjs    max-    be    arrestctd 


so     huddled     tOLTether    as    to 


ma 


ke  their  extrication   most   dan>rerous. 


n   one   instance,  a  hardv  river-driver,   who  went 


iieiioatl 
iK.'ld    it 


1    sncn 


a    lian-'in'. 


ass     of     timber    or  "  j; 


im. 


and 


sus|jeiuied,   sa 


\C( 


1    his    life  from   the  'i\'alanche  of 


cut    away    the    stump    which 
;4s  onl\-  l)y   jumpin;4  into  the 


nv( 


;r    and    dixiiiiL;    deep    t( 


miu-stream. 


Sue) 


1    ;in    exi) 


loit 


is    merelv  one   of    manv 


instances    ot     cool    courai;c  ihsplaxi'il   cons 


tantlv  bv  tl 


le   n\-pr-clri\'ers,   as 


these  Uimiiermen 


ar<'    caiiei 


11( 


Ih. 


that 


remain    on    the 


dint. 


must    be  remov<;d 


uid    hooks,    with    more    or    less    ris 


k    t 


(I     tile     WOlkmeil,    III 


i  with   [licks,   bars 
ire    alloat.       Once    afloat, 


tlufv  are  earned   on   l)\' 


th. 


e  current,  while   the   river-drncrs.   armed   with   loivr   poles, 


full( 


tiiem    , 
for  thi 


the    shore,   to    prexciU    an\' 


fr. 


om   strandin 


W 


leii   the  stream   is   navisraijle 


iihl,    tl.il-botlomed    boats   i 


used    b\    luml)ermen.   lhe\' 


tlu 


drive      I 


n   the 


.•\    SETTI.KR'S     SHANTY. 


running;  tlie  rapids,  and  often  exposed  to  ijreat  risk,  as  the;  swollen  stream  carries 
them  aijainst  projectinj:;-  rocks.  (Jften,  too,  the  lo.irs  will  be  caui^ht  by  some  point 
of    land,    whence    they  have    to    be    rolled    with    "  cantdiooks"— a  work    of    much    labour. 


204 


I  lit   is-ASIliRNMOiiT  RIDGE 


Jik 


The   rivor-drivcrs    arc    usually  accompanied    as    far  as  possil)le  by  a  scow  with  a  covered 
structure.  like  a  Canadian  "  Noali's  Ark."     Hie  scow  serves  all  the  purposes  of  a  shanty. 
The    -rr   '.est    dan,<rer    is    when     lo-s    are    cauj,du    mid-stream,    .•specially    above    a   rapid. 
Then    it    is    necessary    to    ilisen-a,i,re    the    '■  key-piece  "-the    loc,r    which,  caught     by     rock 
or  other    oi.stacle,   causes  th,'  jam.        The    precision    with    which    e.xperienced    river-drivers 
will  ascertain    the    key-piew-  of    .,   jam,   is  no  less   remarkable    than    the    darin.^r    and    skill 
with   which   they  escape   the   rush   of  the  suddenly-liijerated   lo-s  down   the    rapids.        They 
leap    from    loo    to    loo,  and    maintain    their    balance  with   the  de.xterity    of  a  rope-dancer. 
Still,    scarce    a    season    passes    without    loss    of    life    from    this    cause    durino    the    driv.^. 
'Jhe     m<Mi,    therefor.',   do    all     in     their     power     to     prevent     the     occurrence    of    a    jam. 
Pike-poles    in    hand,   th.^y  shove   onwards  the   lo-s   that   seem    likely   to    cause  obstruai..M. 
When     the     force     of     the     current     is     insufficient     as     in    small     streams    or    at    the 
outlets  of    lake.,,   dams    are    used    in   order    by   accumulating-    the    water    to   lloat    the    Iocs 
thither,  and   carry  them   f.)rward   with   a  rush   when   the  oates  are  openeil.      The  dams  are 
built  of   timber  deep-li.xed    in   the   bed    of    the  stream,   so    as    to    resist   tli.'  oreat    pressmv 
to    which    they    are     often     sidjject.'d.       They  ar.'     furnished     with     oates     b>     which    the 
amount   of    water  to  pass  throu-h   can   be  rej,rulated,  and   sluic-waxs-^  one    broad    .uul    in 
the    centre.       To  this  the  lo-s    are    directed    from    the    water  abov.t  by  a  boom.       Sonu- 
times  there    are    as    many    as  a  .lozen    dams    in    tlu^  course    of    a    stream,   and    fre.piently 
four    gates    to    a    dam.      The    logs    are    thus    carried    by  each    of    these    operations,   not 
merely    past    one    point    of    .)bstruction,    but    over    a    considerable    portion    of   a   stream 
otherwise    too    shallow.       Kven    with    all    these    appliances,   after  a  winter    of    little   snow, 
and  when   the  ice  has  gone  out  of    the    lakes,    ther.'  is  often   not  enough   force  of    wat.r 
to    carry    down  the  logs.      In   that  cas.-,   they   are  left    till    the    following  spring. 

On    rivers    down    which    square    timber    is    ljr.)ught,   and    wher.',   as    in    parts    of    the 
Upper  Ottawa,    cataracts  occur   of   such    magnitude  as    to    injure    the   pieces  by  dashing 
them    with    great    violence   against    rocks,  resort    is    had    to    contrivances   called  "slides." 
These   consist    of    artificial    channels,    the     sid..-walls    an.l    bottoms    lin.'d    with    smooth, 
strong    timber-work,       .At    the   upper  end  of    this    chann.-l    are    gates,   through    which    the 
pent-up    water    can    be    admitted   or    shut    off.       In    the   large    slides    this    is    attended    to, 
and    the    duty    on    down-bound    timber    collected    by   a    Government    official- the    "slide- 
master"— who   resides  on    the   spot.      Through    these  slides,   built    by  (iovernment   on    th.' 
most   important    rivers,    pass    the    "cribs."       These   are  constructed    of  a    regulation   width, 
.so    as    to    fit    the    passage-way    of    the    slide.       The    crib  is  about  twenty-four    feet    wide : 
its  le-igth   varies  with   that   of    tli<:  square  timber.       The  lower  part    generally  consists  of 
about  twenty   pieces,   bound   firmly  together,  and  secured   by  shorter  pieces,  called  "trav- 
erses," strongly    pinned    down.       On     the    traverses    are    laid    lengthways,   four    pieces    of 
square    timber,   firmly    fi.xed.      The    crib    is    often    furnished   with  a   frame    house    for    the 
long    oars    as    "  sweeps,"    and    with     a  mast    and     sail.       I'>equentlv    the 


raftsmen,    with 


Oh    THE    CONTINENT 


205 


'il 


THl:.     KOI.l.WAY. 


Ottawa  river-drivers   take  tourists  or   others    as  [jasseiijrers,  to   give    them    the    sensation 
of   'shooting   a   J^licle."      We   embark   on   board   a  cril)   aliove    the   sHiie-gates   Hl   the   falls 


of    the    Calumet. 


The    raftsmen    bid   us    take    tirm    iioiil    of 


)f    tht 


po 


w 


strong 
hich  are  driven  between  the  lower  timbers  of  the  crib.     Above  the  slide  the  waters 


2o6 


THE  EASTERNMOST  RIDGE 


the  Ottawa  arc  still  and  deep;  at  the  left  side,  tlir()iin;|i  tlic  intcrvcnini,^  wood  ,  we  cm 
hear  tlic  roar  of  tin-  cataract.  'llic  slidc-^alcs  arc  tlirown  ojn'ii  ;  tlic  \vat<'r  suri^rcs  over 
the  smooth,  incliiii'd  cliaiincl  ;  our  cril),  carefully  steered  through  the  i;ate\\a\,  slouK 
moves  its  forward  end  over  the  <'ntrance  ;  it  advan<:es,  s\va_\s  for  a  moment,  then,  with 
.1  sudden  i)liMii;c  and  s|)lasli  of  water,  nislies  faster  and  faster  ln'twe<'n  tJH'  narrow 
wails.  Tile  rellow  of  tile  torrent  streams  over  tlie  crih  from  tlie  front  ;  jets  of  w.iter 
S|)urt    up    e\cr\  wliere   lietween    the   limliers    under    oiu-   feet  ;     ilien   dipping;-    lu-avily  as    it 


riMMKU   si.n>K   AT    nil:    iammi-i    iai.i.s. 


leaves  tlie  slide,  our  crih  is  in  the  calm  water  beneath,  the  i^lorious  scener)  of  the 
cataract  full  in  view.  Without  knowing  it,  we  have  got  wet  through  a  trifle  not  to 
be  thought  of,  amid  the  rajiturc;  of  that  rapid  motion  which  Dr.  Johnson  considered 
one  of  the  greatest  of  life's  enjoyments.  He  spoke  of  "a  fast  drive  in  a  post-chaise." 
What  would   he   have    said   to  a  |)lunge  down   the  slides  of  the  Ottawa  1 

When  there  is  a  formidabh'  rapid  on  which  there  is  no  slide,  the  crib  has  to  be 
t;  ken  asunder  and  the  separate  pieces  sent  down,  to  be  gathered  by  a  boom  below, 
and  put  together  as  before.  Over  a  lake  or  broad  river,  the  crib  advances  by  means 
of  an  anchor  carried  out  some  distance,  the  rope  from  which  is  wound  up  by  a  capstan 
on  board.  When  possible,  a  sail  is  hoisted  ;  at  other  times,  the  crib  is  propelled  by 
long  oars,  or  sweeps,  in  the  hands  of  the  raftsmen,  a  tedious  and  laborious  process. 


OF   Tim   CONTIXHXT 


acj; 


)ll  .,    Wf    t  .III 

■iiiri^cs  over 
i\;i\,  slowly 
iIk'H,  with 
I  hi'  narrow 
:s  ot  water 
-•a\il\'  as    it 


il   ^' 


HT)'    of     tile 

rifle  not   to 

considcnd 

lost-c liaise.  " 

has  to  !)<■ 
Dom  below, 
;  by  means 
•  a  capstan 
■opelled  liy 
process. 


2o8 


THE  EASTERN MUai    i^iUGE 


The  immediate  destination  of  the  s(iuare  timher  conveyed  by  water  or  railway  is 
the  "banding  ground,"  where  it  is  formed  into  the  immense  rafts  that  are  such  a  dis- 
tinctive feature  of  our  lake  and  river  scenery.  A  raft  is  composed  of  from  ninety  to  a 
hundred  cribs,  "banded"  together  by  "  wythes."  or  twisted  saplings,  of  hard,  tough 
wood,  and  joined  at  the  ends  by  "lashing-poles,"  which  are  fixed  to  the  end  traverses 
by  chain  wythes.  In  place  of  these,  "cat-pieces"  are  sometimes  used— that  is,  lengths 
of  strong  scantling,  stout  enough  to  bear  a  considerable  strain,  and  long  enough  to 
reach  easily  from  crib  to  crib.  Thus  the  cribs  are  kept  close  together,  yet  are  allowed 
sufficient  independence  of  motion  up  and  down  to  lessen  the  strain  on  the  huge  raft. 
The  raft  can  be  readily  taken  apart  and  put  together  again  ;  as  each  part  is  passed 
down  a  rapid,  the  men    return   overland    to  the   part   not   yet  sent    down,  carrying   their 

gear  in  wagons. 

Like  the  separate  cribs  of  which  we  have  spoken,  the  raft  is  propelled  ordinarily  by 
sweeps  or,  weather  permitting,  by  sails.  Often  a  steam-tug  is  employed,  a  curious 
variety  being  the  "  fiddle-boat"— that  is,  two  long  boats,  or  sections  of  boats,  with  the 
paddle-wheel  between  them.  The  crew  consists  of  from  forty  to  fifty  well-built  and 
skilful  men,  who  live— sometimes  with  their  wives  and  children— in  little  wooden 
liouses  on  the  raft.  The  strange  craft  presents  the  appearance  of  a  village,  progressive 
enough  certainly,  and  in  America  that  is  the  ideal  of  perfection.  The  chief  danger  to 
be  avoided  is  falling  through  the  openings  between  the  ends  of  cribs  of  unequal 
length.  These  water  spaces  become  tilled  with  doating  foam  and  chips,  so  as  to  be 
almost  indistinguishable  from  the  solid  surface  of  the  log.  On  the  rivers  the  greatest 
danger  to  rafts  and  raftsmen  is  from  the  rapids;  on  the  lakes,  from  storms;  yet 
owing  to  the  skill  of  the  pilots  and  the  efificiency  of  the  crews,  accidents  are  rare  ;  and 
these  timber  islands,  after  a  journey  from  the  remotest  paris  of  Canada,  oat  down  the 
broad    St.    Lawrence,    sound    as   when   first  banded   together,  to   their   destination  in    the 

coves  of  Quebec. 

At  these  coves  the  rafts  are  finally  broken  up,  and  frc  n  the  acres  of  timber 
thus  accumulated,  the  large,  ocean-going  ships  are  loaded.  Near  the  vessel  men  run 
actively  over  the  floating  timbers,  and  with  the  help  of  pke-poles  select  the  cargo. 
Kach  stick  or  spar  is  lifted  by  means  of  a  chain  slung  from  a  spar  on  deck,  and  brought 
to  a  level  with  the  large  receiving-port  near  the  vessel's  bow.  It  then  rests  on  a 
roller,  and  is  easily  shoved  in,  and  stowed  away.  "Deal"  planks  are  brought  alongside 
the  timber-ship  in  large  barges  moored  fore  and  aft  of  the  ship,  and  the  deals  thrown 
in  through  the  ports.  When  the  steadily-increasing  load  within  the  hold  sinks  the 
vessel  to  its  lower  ports  these  are  closed,  and  the  loading  is  resumed  at  those 
immediately  above.  The  scene  is  a  striking  one.  In  the  foreground  the  dark  ship, 
contrasting  with  the  gay  motley  of  the  lumbermen's  costume  ;  farther  off.  the  coves, 
with  the    miles   and    miles   of   booms,  and  millions  of    feet   of    timber ;    in    the   distance. 


the    anci 
virgin   fo 
Saw- 
built    on 
"  <lriving' 
course    sc 
are   comn 
uninjured 
many  are 
fri'shet  di 
west,    is 
repeated 
agricultur; 
ishing   toi 
When    th 
timber    bj 
up    the   si 
manufactu 
river-drivii 
complete 
n^moval    ii 
distance  is 
to  the  ma 
newest  anc 
the    saw-m 
may   not  b 
indeed,    is 
farm-house 
dark   pines 
human  ind 
Along 
mile  or   m( 
supply  of  t 
and  genera 
mill    of   the 
that  is  som 
ters'  and  rr. 
The  logs  a 
an  inclined 


railway  is 
such  a  dis- 
iiincty  to  a 
arcl,  tough 
d  traverses 

is,  lengths 
enough  to 
are  allowed 
:  huge  raft. 
t  is  passed 
Tying   their 

rdinarily  by 
a  curious 
ts,  with  the 
:il-built  and 
tie    wooden 

progressive 
;f  danger  to 

of  unequal 
so  as  to  be 
the  greatest 
storms  ;  yet 
e  rare  ;  and 
at  down  the 
ation  in    the 

5  of  timber 
lel  men  run 
:  the  cargo, 
and  brought 
rests  on  a 
ht  alongside 
deals  thrown 
)ld  sinks  the 
d  at  those 
e  dark  ship, 
,  the  coves, 
the   distance. 


th 


OF  THE  CONTINENT 


hill. 


2C9 


;i>''    ancient    city    and    its     historic     hill.       Here    the     wealth    floated     ..^^    ..„.,.     „„. 

virgin    forest,  greets  the  walls  and  spires  of  the  Middle  Ages. 

Saw-logs    are    not    usually    floated    as    far   as   square    umber,    because    saw-mills    ar. 
bu.lt    on    the    streams.       Hut    on    some    rivers,  several    hundred     men     are    (,cct,picd    in 
••dr,vmg"  for   over  two  hundred  miles.       Some  of   the  Laurentian  rivers,  again,  have    a 
course    so    difficult    and   dangerous  that  driving  is    not    attempted    on    them.      The    logs 
ar..    committed    to    the    river,  and    those    that  come  down  the  falls  and    over  the    rap,  Is 
unmjured  are  gathered    at    the    mouth.       Many  log.s    are    so    battered  as  to    be    useless' 
many  are  stranded,  or  caught  by  rocks  or  eddies,  and   must  remain    till  the  next  spring 
ireshet  d.slodges  them.       We  ha.e  seen    how  settlement    in    the  new  country,   north  and 
west,    ,H    following    in    the    wake    of    the    lumber    trafHc.      The    same    process    is    being 
repeated  before  our  eyes  which,  two  generations  ago.  gave  the  first  impetus  to  the  vast 
agricultural  settlements  of    Ontario.      The  mill-villages  and   lumber   depots  are  tl'e  flour- 
ishing   towns   and    cities  of    to-day.      The   .second   stage  is  die  construcM'on   of   railways 
When    the    country    is    sufficiently    settled,    it    pays    operators    to   convey    their   square 
umber    by    rail,    so    as    to    be    earlier    in     the    market.        Saw-mills    are    built    farther 
up    the   stream,    to    obtain    the   raw    material    near   its    source    and   transmit   by  rail    the 
manufactured    product.      Still,  for  a    long  time  to    come,  there  will    be  a  continuance  of 
nver-driving,    to    supply    existing    mills    nearer    the    frontier.       Most    of    these    are    so 
complete    in    their   arrangements,    so    furnished    with    expensive    machinery,    as   to    make 
removal    impossible    without    heavy    loss;    beside.s.    the   expense    of    river-driving   from    a 
distance  i.s  balanced  by  greater  proximity    to  the  centres    of   trade,  and   by  direct  access 
to  the  markets  for  manufactured  lumber.       And  yet  there  are  few  districts,  even   of   the 
newest  and  least-settled  country,  into  which  lumber  operations  have  been  pushed,  where 
the    saw-mill,  of  a    much    ruder   and   simpler   type  than    those  in    more   settled   districts 
may   not  be   hailed  as  the    pioneer  of   advancing  civilization.      Somewhat   unpicturesque' 
mdeed.    is   the   tall    tower   of   open    framework,    yet    it    is   a   welcome    neighbour   to    the 
farm-house   sheltered    by   the    snow-covered   hiM.     Through    the    deep    ravine   rmoncr   the 
dark    pines,  flows   a    stream    that  now.  for   th^    first    time,  does   its  part    in  concert\vith 
human  industry. 

Along  the  river,  above  any  large  mill  in  the  more  settled  country,  will  be  seen  a 
m.le  or  more  of  booms  enclosing  logs  that  have  been  floated  down  for  the  season's 
supply  of  the  .saw.s.  In  such  mills  is  found  every  appliance  of  labour-saving  machinery 
and  generally  the  works  are  arranged  to  utilize  much  that  in  the  more  primitive  .saw 
mill  of  the  backwoods  went  to  waste.  Nothing  i.  lost  except  the  sawdust,  and  even 
that  .s  sometimes  used  to  feed  the  engine  furnace.  There  are  often  forges,  end  carpen- 
ters' and  m-  hine  shops,  that  machinery  out  of  gear  n,ay  be  repaired  on  the  premises. 
The  logs  are  drawn  into  the  mill  by  a  car  which  is  lowered  by  the  steam-power  along 
an  mclmed    tramway  to  the  water,  where  it   sink.s  sufficiently  to  allow  a  couple  of   logs 


a  10 


Wli     '■■■  I       IJI\\\I06T  HJtKiE 


I 


II 


lOUIiSI      .->!  KliAM,     AM)      I  I.MHKK     SI.IOK. 


01-     THIi    C('      //A/: AT 


311 


ii.wi    ON     I  n.iri,   <  Ki-.!.K. 


If' 


'! 


""iiiiii 


guided  hy   pike-poles,   to  he  placed   upon    it.        Ihese  ,ii(    held   fast    on    lie    car    li-    siiarp 
spikes,   on    uhich    tiiey   ri'st,   as   it    is  drawn    Ironi    the    water   tip    tlie    incline.l   pIiik.'   -o   iIk; 
mill.      Arrived  at   tl..'   top.   the  car  is  unloaded,   and   lowered   a^ain.       The    lo-.s   whiJi   are 
l)roiijr|u    lip    are    rolled    off    upon    a    inoval)le    truck,    hy    wiiicli    tiie\     a;-.     ( ;.rried    1.      the 
"^Miijrs."       I'hese  consist  of    rows  of    keen-toothed    s.iws,   set  side    !)y  side  in    a  pow  -rful 
frame.       Held   last   l)y  the   remorseless  (,r,asp  of   the   machitiery  that  carries   them  on,    the 
saws  crunch,   with    apparent    case,   throuj^di    the   lom,    from    etui   to  end.       If    th<     mil,    !«• 
driven    by  steam,   the   sawdust    and   other    refuse   is    carried   to    the    enj^ine-room    to    I   ed 
tile    furnace,  or  in    the    case  of    a   water-mill    it    is    thrown   in   the  stream  to   kill   the  ti-di, 
or  spoil  the   river!      In^'enioiisly-contrived    machinciry   takes  the   lumber  from   the  saws      . 
the  yard,   where  it   :■   piled,  or  droppwl   into  a  shiicewav,   and   lloated   to  a  piling  oruun 
Multitudinous    piles    ot    symmetrically-arra,ic,red    lumber    form    a    peculiar    feature    i 
the    outskirts    of    many  Canadian    cities,        I'he    forest    products    e.xported    from    Canad.. 
during    the    last    ten    years,   have  amounted   to    over  twenty   millions  of    dollars  annually. 
These    have  consisted    almost    entirely  of    scpiare   timber,   and    the  more  marketable  sizes 
of    sawn    lumber,    called    deals.       \early    one    half   goes    to    (^.reat     Mritain,       No    other 
country,   by  itself,   receives  m.    much.       Ne.xt   to  (Ireat    Britain    conu:    the   United    States. 
which  take   the  great,  -t    part    of   the   Ontario    export.       British   Columbia  sends  to  .South 
America,  China,  Japan,  and  the    {'.icil'ic   isLiiuls.     Tl 


le   .Atlantic    Maritime    Provinces  send 


to  Europe.   Africa  and  the  South   .Atl 


antic   State.-        .'Mmost    ecp.      to  this  v 


the    amount    consumed    for    domestic    use.      The    traveller    in   Canaila 


can  no 


ast  export  is 
t    fail    to    be 


211 


THE  EASTERNMOST  RIDGE 


!l  ., 


f'  i 


I 


struck  by  the  way  in  which  lumber  is  used,  for  the  bridges  on  our  rivers,  the  fences 
that  divide  our  fields,  th(>  sitic-walks  in  our  viilacjes  and  cities,  and  for  almost  every 
conceival)!:  purpose.  In  the  country,  and  in  many  towns,  the  buildings  are  of  wooil : 
the  country  roads  have  their  foundation  of  wood,  and  the  newest  method  of  paving  our 
city  streets  is  with  wooden  blocks.  And  in  nearly  every  part  of  Canada,  outside  the 
towns,  wood  is  the  only  material  used  for  fuel. 

In  view  of  the  prodigious  consumption  for  the  home  and  foreign  market,  the  all- 
important  question  comes  to  be:  Mow  long  can  we  go  on  at  this  rate?  Is  our  forest 
wealth  exhaustless,  tiien  ?  Enthusiasts  talk  in  an  airy  way  of  the  woods  of  Nova 
.Scotia  and  New  Hnmswick,  of  boundless  wildernesses  to  the  north  of  the  Ottawa,  of 
luuouchcd  districts  between  Peterborough  and  Lake  Nipissing,  and  along  the  north 
shores  of  tiie  (jeorgian  Hay  and  Lake  Superior,  of  the  passes  of  the  Rocky  Mountain 
and  Cascade  ranges,  choked  with  the  Douglas  pine  and  otiier  monarchs  of  the  forest. 
.And  doubtless  a  su|)])ly  almost  Jjcyond  computation  remains  to  feed  this  greatest  indus- 
try of  Canada  for  many  a  year.  But,  in  every  Province,  practical  lumbermen  hold  very 
different  language  from  that  of  the  enthusiasts.  Go  to  the  great  centres,  to  the  mills 
on  the  Miramichi,  the  lower  St.  Lawrence,  the  Ottawa,  the  Trent ;  to  the  Muskoka 
and  Parry  Sound  district,  or  farther  west  -and  talk  with  the  men  who  have  ranged  the 
woods  for  half  a  lifetime,  and  one  and  all  may  be  heard  sounding  tiie  note  of  alarm. 
They  j)oint  out  that  many  of  the  areas,  boasted  of  as  yet  untouched,  contain  no  pine 
of  commercial  value;  that  lumb(;rmen  are  obliged  to  jje  less  particular  about  the  qualit\ 
every  year;  that  the  farther  they  are  forced  back,  th(!  greater  is  the  difficulty  of  getting 
the  logs  and  sticks  forward  to  shipping  ports  ;  and  that  already  they  are  very  near  the 
line  on  the  other  side  of  which  profits  Cf'ase  and  work  must  stop.  Many  of  the 
first  authorities  declare  that,  under  the  present  system,  the  lumber  business  of  Canada 
will   be  a  thing  of  the   past  in   twenty  years. 

To  turn  a  deaf  ear  to  such  warnings  would  i)e  folly.  It  is  abundantly  clear  that 
if  more  wood  is  annually  destroyed  than  the  amoimt  benignant  Nature  adds  to  our 
national  store,  we  are  killing  the  goose  that  lays  the  golden  eggs,  or  acting  like  the 
spendthrift  who  draws  upon  a  capital  that  he  cannot  replace.  We  must  consider  what 
an.'  the  chief  causes  of  waste,  and  how  we  can  best  guard  against  the  destruction  or 
redu  ion  of  our  splemlid  capital.  We  need  not  take  into  account  what  is  lost  by  the 
adv.mce  of  .settleni'-nt.  Farmers  are  of  more  value  to  a  country  than  any  other  class. 
But,  within  our  Laurentian  ranges,  there  is  little-  encouragement  for  farming.  There 
an-,',  it  is  true,  river  bottoms,  and  large  patches  where  the  limestone  has  been  tritur.".tetl 
anil  washed  down  into  a  sharji  and  genc^rous  soil.  But,  by  far  the  greater  part  of 
those  regions  must  bi-  ah.indoned  to  the  miner  an-.l  the  lumbern-in.  especially  to  th<- 
latter;  and  if  he  is  driven  away,  much  of  our  national  domain  will  be  useless 
as  Sahara. 


n 


or    THI-:   CONTINENT 


2'.\ 


the  fences 
nost  every 
:;  of  wood  ; 
paving  our 
jutside    tin 


Forest  tires  air  the  ,|,i,.| 
cause  of  waste,  ami  these  arc 
generally  prmluced  hy  w.iiil  o 
thought.  Tourists  aiil  pii-ni( 
parties  seldom  extinguish  their  cauip-tires  or  cover  the  eml.ers  with  .■artli.  liackwoods 
farmers  are  accustomed  to  clear  their  land  hy  setting  out  lires ;  and  lliou^r|,  this  is 
usually  done  when  then!  is  a  prospect  of  rain,  they  sometimes  mistake  the  signs  of 
the  sky.  In  a  warm  an<l  rainless  season  the  tires  find  material  to  feed  upon  every- 
where;    they    .spread    along    the    ground    to    the  forest;    and    should    a    gale    arise,  thev 


IHE  EAS'IHKNMOST  R //)(;£ 


sweep    on    with    ;i 
<4atliere(l    slrenj^tli 
and    roar    that    is 
ppallino.    I''enccs, 
)ariis    and    houses 
that     lie    in     their 
course    are    wiped 
out       completely  : 
and     the     settlers 
are  <;lad  to  escape 
wilii     their     lives. 
The    loss    to     the 
country     is     enor- 
mous.       I'or      in- 
stance,    from     ten 
to    fift(;en   millions 
f>l      <lollars'    worth 
of      timber      were 
tiestroved    iti    the 


OF   Till-:   cox n A' EAT 


21  ■■ 


ON     THK     UPPKK     SI.     MAUUICK. 


IVovmc.    of    Ontario    by  autumn    fires    in    ,88,;    that    is,  a    sum    equal    to    half    of    our 
revenue,  was  burnt  as    so  much  old  paper,  and  the  public  .seemed  to  care  little.     Forest 
t.res.    too,  are    not    like    those    that    sweep    over    the    prairie   and  add    to    the   vegetable 
■nould.       i  hey  often    burn  into  the    ground,   eat    up   the    little  ea,-th    there   is,  and"  leave 
the    stone.s    mossless    and    hungry.       When    the    tall    pines    a>-e    left    standing,    scorched, 
l'lac..,ned,    and    tliscrowned,    an    insignificant     insect,    rightly    called    (Ireat^-one    of    the 
Capricorn   beetles -completes   the   work  of  destruction.      It  bores  ihrouoh  the  outer  bark 
and  deposits  its  larva  between   the  bark  and   ti>e  wood.      The  larva    feeds  on  the  woods 
hbre,and  gradually  bores  its  way  to  the  heart   of  the  pine.     These  "bcu-e.-s"  are  ahnos't 
as  much  dreaded  by  the  lumbermen    as  grasshoppers  by  a  prairie  far.ner.      In  travellin- 
through  a  burnt    district,   their  presence    is  sufficiently  attested  whenever  there  is  a  high 
Wind.       The    air    is    filled    with     innumerable    particles    of    woody  dust,  and    the    scene 
resembles  a  snow  storm  more  than  anything  else. 

Replanting  has  been  suggested  to  counterbalance  the  loss  caused  by  fires  and 
reckless  cutting.  .Such  a  remedy  is  practically  impossible.  It  would  be  too  costly,  and 
there  would  be  great  difficulty  in  preserving  the  young  trees  f,-om  fires.  Besides,  a 
pine  takes  one  hundred  and  fifty  years  to  reach  maturity. 

One  or  two    measures    may  be    suggested.     The  Government    should,  by  a  commis- 
sion of   experts  and  scientific    ,nen,  take    stock    of   our    forest    wealth.      This    done,  the 
1    increment    presented 


an 


us    by  Nature  could    be    estimated.      And    th 


icn,  on    no 


Ji6 


THE  EASTERNMOST  RIDGE 


accouni,  ^lould  more  tliaii  this  increment  bo  cut  in  any  year.  This  is  the  law  in  Norway 
:ui.1  S\vcili:n,  anil  it  is  a  on„tl  law.  The  demand  for  lumber  will  increase.  Already, 
insirad  of  selectin.Lj  only  tin  l)esl  trees,  as  was  the  custom  a  ([uarter  of  a  century  ago, 
tiir  forest  is  bein.i.;  cut  down  as  a  wheat  held  is  mowed.  Let  us  not  foroet  that 
tli<-y  who  waste  shall  want.  Our  form  of  government  mak(^s  it  difficult  to  pass  or 
lo  .enforce  laws  to  curb  greed.  Hut  the  call  for  immediate  action  is  loud.  One  or  two 
wise  huvs,  ;ind  the  employment  of  the  best  men  obtainal)le  as  "bush-rangers"  to  take 
c.ire  of  Coveriiinint  timber  limits,  would  preserve  to  Canada  an  income  from  her 
wildernesses   for  centuries. 

We  owe  much  of  our  wealth  and  development  to  tiie  lumber  trade.  It  has  been 
one  of  the  great  instruments  of  our  .self-expansion  during  the  past  forty  years.  Hut 
the  anxieties  for  a  nation's  future  increase  with  increasing  wealth  and  population. 
Civilized   men   cannot   live  in   the  fool's   Paradise  of  the   present. 


■*'^^<ff^-^«»»MI«lP'-^ 


l!  V? 


in  Norway 
Already, 
nlury  ago, 
orgct  that 
to  pass  or 
)nv.  or  two 
s"  to  taUi' 
from    licr 

t  has  been 
ears.  Hut 
popiihitif>ii. 


